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Found 116 results

  1. Hello all, I am wondering if anyone can direct me to where the rear power window fuse/relays are? I knew that the passenger side rear windows motor was probably on its way out (it was going up and down slowly), the drivers side rear window operated very smoothly...now all of a sudden neither window will go down no matter if I push the main controls near the drivers seat or the controls for each window in the backseat...I'm not sure what the issue could be...Iocated the fuse panel (inside the glove box) and also both fuse panels underneath the hood, however, I am not seeing anything in regards to the rear power windows. Is there any other place that there may be a fuse box located? When I push the buttons from the drivers seat all I seem to hear is a "clicking" sound and that's it...I'm sure that both motors couldn't have just gone out at the same time without warning...am I missing something? Thanks in advance. Trey
  2. Every once in awhile my Cutlass doesn't want to start, I have full power to everything good battery, alternator and new starter. PNRD safety switch replaced last year. So its making me suspect the ignition switch and I`d like some ideas on how to go about testing it when the failure occurs by myself. Wanting to rig up a test light so that I can probe the terminals on the starter solenoid but this usually happens when I'm by myself and no remote start device. Any ideas for that would be cool, also interested in any locations inside the car for probing purposes. Another question would be about the sensor on the key (passkey? or I might be thinking something else) If the thing on the key or inside the cylinder doesn't connect or activate what happens when you turn the key ON but not ignition? Can you still get full power to everything just no engine start? Also I had 2-3 warning chimes after the engine was started the other day(not everytime) and I remember reading along time ago that was not a good thing but I cannot find anywhere what it means.
  3. A while ago I broke the lug stud off the front of my '95 GP while trying to remove a rusted on nut. Yesterday, I decided to replace it. No problem I thought. Got out the trusty mallet and out it came, very easily. That should have been my first warning. As I tried to put the new stud in, I discovered that there is not enough clearance between the hub and the knuckle. Of course I've checked all around the knuckle, but to know avail. So how has anyone here remedied this situation?
  4. My anti-lock dash warning has come on since my recent alternator adventure. I checked the connector in the passenger wheelwell where I was in there working thinking I might have knocked it loose, but an R&R didn't eliminate the error. Is there a similar paper-clip method of doing diagnostics on the ABS for a '92?
  5. I have another post going concerning identifying the wires for the power driver seat from a 1997 Grand Prix http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=83026.0 It took a bit of looking but I found the owners manual online and discovered the seat has lumbar support I have 6 wires going to the seat wiring harness 2 are larger gauge black and orange and when I put 12v to them, the "up/down/front/back" worked There are four additional small gauge wires: pink, light blue, black w/white stripe, and smaller orange If you figure lumbar support and the seat belt warning minimum, I might also have heated seats! If anyone has the wiring diagram, it would be GREATLY appreciated if you could help me figure this out Thanx in advance Paul
  6. Hello, this morning I got no warning when my right front started making very loud popping and banging on the freeway. When i got the to train station and parked this morning I got out and pushed down on the car and I can get the noise to happen, it is coming from where the shock would be in the strut tower. i had to get to work and couldn't look at it more. Could it be a loose nut on top of the shock? I replaced the shocks about 8 months ago. Thanks
  7. My "BRAKE" light has come on and won't shut off. Did some thread searching here but couldn't find anything relevant, nor could I find anything in my FSM. I checked pads, they're fine, fluid level is fine, tried unplugging the level sensor on the M/C but it didn't make any difference. So what is it trying to tell me? Does the parking brake cable need adjustment?
  8. MAKE SURE YOU REPLACE YOUR INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET BEFORE IT EVEN STARTS LEAKING. If it has already started leaking, there is a good chance that the oil passages in the engine have been gummed up by the white milky sludge. If this the case, your engine may suffer catastrophic failure. Today, as I was driving home, the Montana spun a bearing at 91,000 miles. This should NEVER happen to an engine with that low of milage. Again, if your Gen-III 60 Degree V6 hasn't had it's intake manifold gaskets changed, DO IT BEFORE IT'S TOO LATE. On a side note.. anyone wanna buy a fully loaded 1999 Pontiac Montana with a fucked engine?
  9. Hey guys my parents regal is outta wack, sometimes without warning the car will go psyco. The speedo goes all the way up, ABS light goes on, trac control turns off, alot of the panel lights go on. This happens while the car is running, once i shut it off, it will not start up again. I believe i had a similar problem on my 89 olds and i replaced the ecu, but i dont think its as easy to get an ecu for these newer ODB-II cars, do you think it is the ecu??? What else could the problem be???
  10. I've been SUPER lax about this for a long time. I ask and I ask and I ask, I delete posts and ask some more. Whine/Bitch about a price in the For Sale section, get banned for a week. That simple. I do not care how stupid the price is to you. Unless you are making a serious offer, don't post. Don't want the item, don't post. It's not that difficult. Final Warning. Just in case anyone forgot: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/48510-Forum-Rules-and-Guidelines
  11. The other day I was heading to class in heavy rain, and my lights flickered minutes later they turn on and pretty much have stayed on whenever the car is on. I pulled the fuse for it. I dont know if this is connected but a week ago my trunk release stopped working, which basically got directly wired from the fuse to wire for it to open (I dont have a key). Now my alarm popped a warning that one of my doors was open, when they werent, that made me think the door 'button' thing isnt working right. I hate eletrical crap.
  12. Has anyone tried using canned air to check for vac leaks? I don't like the idea of spraying flammable liquid on a hot engine, so considering those air duster cans have a flammable warning on them, would it work for testing a vac leak? I'm going to try in the next few days, seems safer than spraying TB or brake cleaner all over the place. Has anyone tried it before?
  13. Well, the Monte broke down on me today on the way to the local Bethlehem Fair. It's now at my mechanic's getting a diagnosis. Here's what happened. I had picked up a friend's boyfriend and was on the way to pick up said friend and another friend before heading to the fair. Long twisty two-lane road uphill. Ok. no problem. Start driving up the hill, and the car starts acting funny. First it was the transmission. The slushbox couldn't find second, but found it after a few seconds, then it couldn't find third. It found thirds a few seconds later as the rpms were on the way down. shifted into third at about 3000 rpm. The car jerked, chirped the tires and took off. I figure ok, I'll have the check the transmission fluid and see if it's throwing any transmission related codes. Then it shifted into 4th. un provoked and un-needed. The rpms drop to just barely over 1,000. The car sounded like it was trying to sputter to a halt, but something wouldn't let it. Pulled over to the side of the road and shut the car off. Now it cranks but won't start and the Service engine soon light is on. all the gauges were reading normal and other than this, there were no warning signs. just out of the blue. ugh. if it's a major repair, I'm going to wind up getting rid of it for something newer. Already looking. No one can figure out what it is so far.
  14. For some time now my car has been showing the ABS lights (Trac Off, ANTI-LOCK, SVS, and BRAKE). It was very intermittent a while ago, but has been increasing in frequency where now about every other time I start the car they're on. Before I would shut off and restart and they'd be gone for a week and I'd have to look for stored instead of current codes, but now it comes on a lot. A couple times it was the security light, but I haven't seen that in a couple months. codes: C1236 Low System Voltage C1278 LF ESB will not hold motor ??? C1286 EBCM/EBTCM turned on the red brake warning indicator U1300 Class 2 Data Link Low It's reading about 11.5-12.0 Volts normal, 10.5 V under load and 13.0-13.5 V while running. I really wish this thing had a voltage gauge instead of a dummy light. It's enough that everything works fine still, but I don't want it to totally crap out on me and leave me stranded. Damn brakes are squeaking again, too. Maybe time for rotors. The Centric pads got rid of the noise for a while, but it's back.
  15. The wife has a 1997 Pontiac grand prix, when driving it home tonight and it started to jerk when going at a steady speed with the cruise set, now it does it when you slow down and speed up, and it will periodically just die, but then restart and go again for a few, when it restarts it spins over like normal, no battery drain like a alternator going bad. The check engine light does not come on on it either, however when the car dies the battery light and the low oil light come on and then go off, but i think that is normal (kinda like when you turn the key on the warning lights come on). What are some suggestions as to where to look for the problem on it. is it possible to be a sensor someplace that is going bad. She did run over the daughter bike and had the handle bars wedged between the fender, don't know how far it went into the car, but there isn't any sensors in that area is there that could have been knocked off just a bit? Thanks BOB
  16. Hey guys, new to the forum. I'm having a car problem that's stumping everybody I've asked. They say it could be all these different sensors or the fuel regulator and/or pump. My 1993 Lumina up and stalled out with no warning one day, and since then it has not run right. It will start up and idle roughly forever, but when you hit the gas it will lurch/rev up and down, misfire variably, and then stall. The length of time it will run before stalling varies but no more than 5 minutes. Check Engine light is not on, was checked to be working, no codes. Recently ran idle relearn, replaced MAP and IAT Sensors. Am going to check fuel pressure. Any ideas?
  17. I`m thinking this is an electrical problem but its about my brakes so I m posting here. About a wee ago here in TN we had alot of snow and the streets were pretty slick so i had to go have some fun in my Cutlass, pissed alot of people off that were stuck in the ditch while i was just sliding on by. Any ways i power slid around an icy corner going about 10-15mph and my amber ABS light and the red BRAKE lights have both come on and will not go off. I have no problems with the regular or parking brake, they both work fine. Any idea about WTF is going on? Its colder than a witchs tit outside and I cant find any indication on the brakes and i topped the fluid off. Ideas people?
  18. Ok, so the brake light is constantly on, the ebrake is busted, whatever. But there are two that I have questions on. The gas light is always on, yet the gauge works just fine (a little off centered, but find none the less). What trips this up and should this be an easy fix? Also, my coolant light is on almost constantly. Sometimes it goes off and or flickers for a bit, but usually on despite the gauge working 100% perfectly. What sensor is this one? I've never done either of these on any of my Ws, so sorry for sounding like a noob
  19. i ahven't really done one of these in a while. i'm going to go back through my old posts and compile them here. anyhow, i started the 1.6 rocker swap a few days ago. i've had the wrong year pushrod, pushrods close, but not quite right, found metal shaving in the heads and intake (can't for the life of my imagine why), and just now found out i hae an electrical drain. the car drained my good battery so far, it will shor 10 volts, but won't even turn on the warning lights when i turn the key. i think i'm going to detour a while and start work on putting the fenders, hood and bumper back one. i know the point where the fender bolts un under the driver's door it bent to fuck. ought to be interesting trying to straighten that out
  20. It's been an amazing reliable car, with 180k I've been driving it every day (with a few exceptions) to work and back (15 miles one way), and I haven't had to put a dime into it aside from a quart of oil because of my next thought. I drove home last monday evening normally, everything was fine. Monday evening I back it out of the driveway because I decided to drive the blazer to my parents house. I noticed it was running rough but I thought maybe it was because I jumped in and started her so quickly just to roll it 30 feet. Tuesday I jump in to drive across town and its running really rough, a little bit of smoke when I take off from sitting at a light, and the smell of gasoline. Now, the smoke didn't appear to look or smell like oil, just unburnt fuel. I grabbed a timing light and checked all my wires and I'm getting at least what appears to be decent spark from all 3 coil packs, because that was my first thought. I need to pull all the plugs, but beyond that I can't think of much until I get a chance to dig in. Anything that would just all the sudden pop up like this and not have any warning signs, but is still drivable but just rough? Any ideas?
  21. ***deleted original post*** ......and this thread is now another example of why this forum is going to shit......There is absolutely no need to turn every thread into the "whatever thread" with your pointless banter. If you can't help with someone's question: DON'T CLUTTER UP THE THREAD WITH GARBAGE!!!!! Just move on without posting. Not sure why this is such a hard concept for people to understand. Bob: Thank you for your answers. They are very much appreciated
  22. Hey all, I recall posting a while back about an issue with the lights staying on and the warning chime too after shutting off the car. I thought it was maybe a remote start wiring problem, put it at a garage by the previous owner. Lately I've been driving on the highway at night with all the lights on automatically and the lights would shut off and turn back on after a few seconds. This one time I took the car out and the auto lights did not kick in. The '97 CS was made for Canada. I have looked several times under the driver side dash and I can't seem make out what is what. Like I think the module for the door locks etc.., is the one where the TSS connects into? There are other boxes, harnesses but Ican't seem to make sense of it. Does anyone have pictures of the DRL module, Twilight Sentinel module, so I can get a better idea on what to look at and which connections to check? Thank you
  23. I checked the obvious items like parking brake depressed, and brake fluid reservoir, but both of those checked out fine. The DRL and Auto lights also function as they should, so that would rule out the Parking brake switch as well. ABS and traction control also function as they should. The light stays on when you start the car/drive, and also stays on for a couple seconds after you turn the car off. Anyone had this happen before?
  24. tdvs

    Starting Problem

    My '95 3.4 CS sat at work all last week. When I tried starting it yesterday morning it fired right off, but raced to 3000 for a second or two then dropped to 1000 and chugged then back to 3000 and back to 1000 then quit running. On the third try I tried to give it a little gas when it dropped to 1000 and chugged but it raced to 3000 again so I put it in gear and it ran and smoothed out. It was fine starting and running the rest of the day. It had rained a couple times during the week, and rained earlier yesterday morning, but wasn't when I was tring to start it. No warning lights came on during the process. Excessive moisture/condensation maybe?
  25. Dash, Integrated CarPC ... that is all. I'm not done with the bezel though ... It needs some good ol' TLC, sanding and such. I know it looks like crap ... but that's temporary [didn't want people to be able to see behind the wood-grain dash cover]. Let me know what you guys think.
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