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Found 301 results

  1. Well, just a few minutes ago, my brother and I arrived home. I had just picked him up from work. I turned to back into the parking area across the street from my house. I put the car in reverse and began turning back in the other direction to straighten the car out. The steering wheel got very stiff, it felt as if I lost all power assist. The steering didn't act up before this. It made no moaning or grinding noises when this happened. I get the car parked and pop the hood. Reservoir is full, there is no puddle underneath the path of the car. I start it back up and turn the wheel back and fourth while my brother watches the steering pump. Wheel is equally stiff the whole time. He said the pulley is turning and there's no fluid shooting out. So does anyone know what the issue might be? The only problem I've had with the steering previously was in the winter, the pump moaned and squealed like a banshee until it warmed up. It never was abnormally stiff or losing any fluid whatsoever. Not long before it got cold, I drained the fluid out of the reservoir and replaced it with Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak, hoping that its conditioning properties would prevent any headaches in the near future.
  2. Hello fellaz, I just purchased my second Regal GS, and since I didn't mod my first one I plan on goin balls deep into this one. Anywho I bought the car knowing it needed a trans, but the price was one I couldn't refuse. I have a pretty good starting point. Super clean interior for a 98, only 122K on odometer, and a slew of new parts. Even already has a K&N cold air intake. Needless to say I'm on the hunt for my tranny first so any help would be greatly appreciated. Doesn't have to be low miles since I plan on rebuilding my original. Just wanna know the mileage and get a fair price. Also any modification ideas would be greatly appreciated. P.S what should I do before going to a smaller pulley on the SC?
  3. looking for basic performance parts 3.4 pulley 1.8-1.9 rockers 3"downpipe with bung powerlog northstar tb adapter if your in New England I can drive to you.otherwise send asking price with shipping to 02169
  4. Hi everyone. Here I am with another head scratcher. While on my way to work my car decided to spin a grooved idler pulley bearing for the Supercharger. I did manage to limp it into a KIA dealership parking lot nearby and wrenched off the offending pulley. The SC belt was damaged severely and the accessories belt had some minor damage. I have to replace both now. The pulley is a write-off but what 'wierds' me out is the plastic bushing which I cannot find or reference (in the picture below to the left of the pulley). If you look closely the plastic bushing has an outer shell that sheared off leaving half inside the mounting bracket on the engine. I am assuming it stands off so that when you replace the pulley, bell washer and bolt the bell washer faces up with the bushing. Can anyone help me out with this? Does this bushing come out completely and is it replaceable or is this a part of the bracket to which it is attached. I don't want to put this back on but I am between a rock and a hard place. I may just size up the bushing and stick a PTFE or NAB sleeve in it's place (something with a better P & V, and temp tolerance than this). -Steve =(::::::::: btw. I picked up a Delco Pulley for this (locally in the area) and the PN was GM#88909590 and ACD#38009. When I called about the bushing those PN's did not match the dealers. =\
  5. Hey guys, I've got a 2004 L67 out of 2004 Monte Carlo Supercharged SS, and I am considering installing a smaller diameter pulley on it. However, it does not have the studded nut which screws into the end of the supercharger shaft like my 2000 model L67 had. The supercharger shaft on the 2004 model is smooth on the end with no visible threaded hole. Is this just a plug which protects the threads in the end of the shaft, or is it made that way? Seems like it would be awfully hard to install the pulley without threads in the shaft.. Andy
  6. I bought my first Grand Prix in 2007, which, was a 1999 GTP. I parted it out when it started burning oil at 200,000 miles. I now have a 2001 GTP with 135,000 miles that I have installed a full size intercooler on and am running a 3.2 pulley. I live in a small town called Kemmerer, which is located in SW Wyoming about an hour from Utah and about 2 hours from Salt Lake City. here is a recent picture of my engine bay.
  7. ‚ÄčI'm rebuilding a "T" block and using a crane H260 cam. I've read that when others have used the 1:6 rockers with this set up that it doesn't run well, input? Also am thinking of using a northstar water pump pulley that is smaller to get more cooling.
  8. Title, I have a 273,000 KM regal. New built trans, 2400 stall converter, speed daddy headers heat wrapped, full 3" out the back with a cutout mid way. Homemade 4" fenderwell as well. ZZP coils, wires, and tr6 plugs. According to the zzp website I can safely run a 3.4. However for the 3.3, it specifys I could run that one as well... This is a daily driver, more power is cool but keeping it tame is not a bad idea either. Which would you guys choose? With that also said, which gauge will I need for keeping an eye on KR? As for a tune, I have looked locally and they are all very far away from my budget.... I hear Overkill is one of the better ones. Any help would be great, thanks
  9. I just bought a nice regal GS with under 100k miles, it was $2200 and in pretty good shape a few little things, but now I need to see if the knocking noise is an exhaust leak or something else. I am friends with Heypal, the guy who had the turbo impala and so I am not too new to these engines. I am already planning a new downpipe and intake with 3.5 or 3.4 pulley, I need to make sure and service the supercharger first and do a quick tune up on her. I will get pics up of her later and no I have not named her yet.
  10. Hey guys, I've been taking leaps and bounds ahead with my car, so I'm starting to plan a pulley drop now. I'm kind of up in the air with which size though. I have Gen V supercharger, so from what I've ready the upgrade of going from a Gen III to a Gen V is like a 0.2 inch pulley drop in itself. For example: Gen III w\3.6 inch pulley=Gen V w\3.8 inch pulley, Gen III w\3.2-Gen V w\3.2, etc. When I ran an HAI, stock exhaust, and stock tune, I very rarely had 1 degree of knock retard. I now have SD headers, the same HAI, and still have a stock tune and since installing the header I haven't seen any Kr at all. I will be getting a tune before the pulley drop, I'm not too sure who to go with and there is NO ONE even remotely local to tune it in the car. So, I'll have to with a canned tune of some sorts...Anyone recommend a box tune? Also, I'm up in the air on which pulley I should go with, a 3.4, 3.5, or 3.6? I'm wondering if I could get away with a 3.4 without any intercooler. Thanks guys!
  11. Hello All, I have a 1995 MC Z34 which has a screaming a/c clutch bearing and not even worth spending the extra $$ to full fix my non functioning a/c. Hasn't worked for the past 6 years. I have been searching web and this site and have found that Dorman make a bypass pulley #34197. Has anyone used this on their LQ1 car and does it work. I plan to take my car to my friend's shop to get it vacuumed out so that there are no surprises when I disconnect the lines. Any input would be appreciated. I would like to do this before my engine seizes. Thanks.
  12. Going to be doing a compression test on my 3100 v6 and I`m not %100 sure on finding TDC to get an accurate reading. What is the best way to go about finding TDC and might there be any indication marks on the crank pulley? I don't have access to someone who has done this before which would e ideal.
  13. Hey, I guess it's been a while since I was last here... Mainly because I lost my license due to a medication that I have to take, so my car has been sitting at the curb for the past 4 months (since early Summer) while I fight the government to prove that the meds don't affect my driving. I hate having to walk home from work every day and see it sitting there with the tires going hard, but there's nothing I can do. Anyways, I've been starting it up every once in a while to keep the engine lubed up (especially with the freezing temps coming in) and the other day when I started it, I heard squeaking and it just didn't sound right at all. I popped the hood, and noticed that it seems like the AC compressor clutch is somehow seized up. With the AC OFF, it still wants to spin but it seems like the compressor might have seized too since I have a leak. I figure if the clutch got stuck and kept the pulley going with that leak, it would have run the compressor dry and f*cked it (just a theory). So rather than fix it I'm thinking of just deleting the entire A/C system. I know it's a pain in the ass, but as long as I don't have a license the car will just be sitting there so I have plenty of time to do it. I also understand that there's some environmental concerns but since the AC has leaked itself dry already, I don't see what more it could do to the atmosphere. I know just doing a pulley bypass is a lot easier, but I don't see the point in leaving the entire heavy system in if it's not doing anything. It's just dead weight. My question is - has anyone done an A/C delete? What are some of the major steps involved?
  14. Hey everyone I got a 99 Monte Carlo with the 3.1 in it , the alternator bracket bolt that goes into back of head has snapped off :/ I figured I could make it work without it but 9 months and 2 brackets later they keep snapping over time , well breaking .. Maybe tension pulley going out ?? Not sure but my main question is , is there any other bracket I can use ? Mine is the one that sits up a bit compared to like he one on a malibu that has the engine hoist with it .. Wish I could upload pic on my phone. But I guess I'm going to have to try and drill the bolt out and find another bracket whic is proving more difficult ecerytime one breaks thanks guys http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mrXLDJBnAPf63_jsVWaGmkw.jpg the link is what bracket looks like btw super irritating the bracket is broken on bottom bolt well where it goes thru bracket so it's just the long skinny part top that is supporting the pressure so it's only matter of time ! Since my alternator went out figured I need to fix this its causing me way more problems and time !
  15. i have a 99 gtp, and have been reading all day on support mods for 3.5 pulley and have been getting all different answers. some places say you just need basic mods some say you need a lot of extra mods. my question is, what support mods do i need? i recently replaced fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, and exhaust (nothing fancy). i was planning on getting 180tstat, aeroforce gauge, 3.5 pulley, and belt. do i need anything else? i am not looking to spent too much more money, if it is going to cost a couple more hundred dollars i might just give up on the idea.
  16. have a 95 cutlass supreme 3.4 DOHC. The power steering pulley has broke off the pump. How difficult is to replace with a new one? Pulley its self is what broke. The center failed. Whats needed to do this and the step?
  17. I have this annoying squeak coming from the accessory drive, I have replaced the belt and put a new belt tensioner pulley on any suggestions on what it could be?
  18. So oddly enough 1 year ago my return line melted and I lost steering, fried the pulley and now the pressure line just went. I made the drive home before I lost all fluid thankfully, by the time I got it i the garage it was jet streaming from the metal fitted area and the hose. I wondering how bad of a job this may be? I cant find it in my Haynes manual not even sure where the line leads exactly.
  19. working on my P/s system and noticed coolant dripping out of what seems to be the upper part of the timing cover and i know that the lim can leak coolant and im wanting a second opinion as a buddy of mine is willing to put his life on it thats its the water pump. But it is originating well above the water pump and dripping down the back of the T. Ch cover. Somewhat between P/s pulley and tensioner. What do you guys think? LIMG, Timing chain gasket, or something else?
  20. Hey folks! I thought I had Precious up and running on DD duty again, but she had other plans. I took my daughter to a doctor's appointment this morning, and when I came out there was a decent puddle of coolant on the ground. I started the car to see how severe, and it was a decently steady stream. I limped her to a QT to grab a bottle of straight coolant/antifreeze then after filling the overflow back up to a friend's house very nearby and called Jeremy for a rescue. So far as either of us can tell, the coolant seems to be dripping from the front side of the engine and not from any hoses. There is also a very loud tap-tap-tap going on which when visually comparing to the car running appears to be the topmost pulley on the serpentine, or possibly the one on the water pump. Any ideas what this leak could be?
  21. can somebody please help me and tell me why my waterpumps keep cracking around the pulley on the front side of pump. The equipment we are talking about is a chevy 350
  22. Is there a manual on this diverse subject LOL? We all know waterpumps can rattle, but short of taking the serpentine belt off and checking for play in the pulley, I don't think I have that problem. Is the idea to put the car on ramps and get your arms in there and try to wiggle things? What are likely possibilities? For one there's sometimes a whine (when it's colder) when I first start it up. And something rattles more when it's in gear, much more quiet when it's in park (but running). I may be hearing 3-4 things at different times. Oi. Is there a rattle diagnostic connector on these cars? There really really should be! Can I assume that rattles are generally external to a reasonably well functioning engine (or tranny! Yikes!)? I have 182,000 miles. I'd cry if I was told that something in my engine was rattling. Like a big baby in fact.
  23. Hi! I'm a new member and need some help, I am trying to remove the crank shaft pulley on a 3800 Buick engine and can not get it out! anyone have any advice? i don't know if its right or left handed threads, I don't want to heat it because its has rubber in it! Anyone with any advice please help, I need to get this off to change the oil pump. Thank you foltyfamily.
  24. Just bought this car. I plan to put the powertrain into my 88 fiero. Know nothing of these cars,i'm reading but educate me? Guy's at Pennock's say to just make it a driver. I don't need another project,so don't really see it happening. But,as a car enthusiast I figured I owed you guy's to at least post it up. No title,told it was parked due to something wrong with the "supercharger thingy" and that they took a pulley off it to put on another car. I was told by someone else it needed a wastegate. Looks totally intact except for small stuff,would actually clean up real nice. Probably just sell the rolling chassis after the powertrain is pulled.
  25. On my 99 Regal I have acquired a noise at idle. It's hard to describe, so I'll describe what I've done thus far in terms of diagnosing. First off, car runs/shifts perfectly fine. RPM's are good, and it is not acting weird. No SES, no loss of power. It is an intermittent noise when warm. It sounds like a bad tensioner/bad pulley rattling around. It's really loud underneath the car, but it seems to be echoing off of everything and I can't pin point it further. The noise does not change with RPM's either. One thing I do notice, if you get back in the car after it makes the noise, put in gear and move back and forth, the noise will subside. Sometimes it will come back, sometimes it wont. This leads me to thinking I have some sort of a transmission issue. That being the case, checked the fluid. It's clean and smells normal. Thoughts?? I'm stumped and with a baby on the way, this may get parked and I'll deal with it/sell in the spring depending on what the wife lets me do. Any input is appreciated. I really don't want to take it to a shop. TIA:)
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