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Found 123 results

  1. Ok any of you that have owned a 60 degree V6 such as the 3100 or 3400 will be familiar with this tube, it runs from the rear valve cover to the intake tube just in front of the throttle body. If you are like me you have probably attempted Teflon tape and or RTV to keep the valve cover end in with not much luck. I have searched for a rubber grommet without success and for years it has just rested in place. Well at the beginning of the year I was working on a GAGT with a 3400 and came up with a nice solid airtight fix. This is what is getting replaced, don't throw it out just yet, you will need part of it. You will need that tube ^ 2. Permatex Ultra black RTV 3. 1 FT of PVC hose 19/32, this will be cut to fit approximately. 4. 1x FORD PVC elbow AutoZone P/N 47032 Tools include a hack saw or serrated cutting tool for cutting the factory tube without bending or breaking it, a file or sandpaper for removing a lip on the PVC elbow and something to cut the 19/32 hose, it also helps to have the ICM/coil pack assembly removed. First get your engine ready for the mod/repair by removing the ICM assembly(I will assume you the reader can do this in your sleep, if not consult your repair manual you NOOB!){this is a joke we all started somewhere} Next locate your purchased FORD elbow and proceed to remove this ONE lip. The one on the side pointing UP in the pic, the other end can be worked into the 19/32 hose for an airtight bond without anything. I used a file and enjoyed a cold beer while doing so. Also note the flat "washer" area of the elbow where my thumb is, this is where you put the RTV and fix it to the rear valve cover. Now once the elbow is filed and the other end in the hose find the original tube and cut off the elbow that fits into the air intake tube. You can make the cut exactly at the elbow. That part fits right into the 19/32 hose. Place your newly created assembly into the rear valve cover and eyeball where you need to make your cut at the intake tube, then RTV the Ford elbow to the rear vale cover and insert the other end into the intake tube then let the RTV cure for about an hour. Pretty self explanatory but feel free to ask any questions should they arise. Update after relocating images! After several months everything holds up quite nice. Ive removed the air intake tube several times since this and the rear valve cover end stay nice and secure.
  2. So after some fidgeting around I finally found the perfect combo to get the rear plugs out. This can be done without removing anythings, without rocking the engine, without cutting the firewall lip. I did all three of my rear plugs in under 15 minutes, and the hardest part was just getting the wires back in because of the goofy plastic tubey thingy that they go in. Here's what you'll need: 1/2" socket wrench 1/2" 5" extension 1/2" to 3/8" socket adaptor 3/8" universal joint 3/8" 3" extension 3/8" extension connected to your spark plug socket Here's what you do: First remove the plug wire. You may have to use a little bit of force and some twisting and wiggling, but it can be done. With the socket and first extension already connected, lower it into the plug hole enough so that you can still hold it with one hand (and not drop it in). Once you have it down far enough for the second 3" extension to be down past the lip, pop it on to the first extension. Drop it a little further so you can get the U joint on. At this point you should be able to get the socket most of the way down onto the plug. You should be able to now pop the adaptor on, and then the 5" extension. Once you do this, it's pretty self explanatory. You'll have to loosen the plug and then reverse the process (removing each section), but then you should have your plug out, and installation of the new plug is reverse. Again, took me all of 15 minutes to do all three, and half that time was probably fighting to get the wires back on
  3. Found a mint set of lip tails, spoiler will need to be painted, is currently red, but faded, at the jy today. Im starting to trip over these so its for sale. $100+shipping takes em. Pics upon request. Thanks.
  4. I know it's a long shot, but just in case any of you guys hitting yards happen across them, I'm looking for a 3rd gen SPO front lip. They clip in (and maybe some double sided tape), and were available on the 06-08's with the special appearance package. They all can be had new, but I figure I'd throw this out there. There's also a rear bumper one, but that's secondary, still on my list though also there's a slightly different spoiler, but that's last on the list
  5. First off, anyone know the stock offset for the 17" and 18" wheels? I'm thinking about getting some 18's for the GP for summer. I would have to beat the rear fender lip in like i did on the Regal so the xlaces don't hit on big bumps, but not sure I want to do that to this car. Other option would be to have them machined for less offset, but would like something bigger. Even 18's don't look that big in the pictures I've seen. Plus I wouldn't mind going back to stock tire height since there still is a little wheel gap even with the lowering springs and I was told that if you change tire size in the computer on these that it'll mess up cruise. I don't really use it much, but I think that's a good compromise. I hate not having my speedo working correctly. I haven't looked a whole lot yet, but have looked at tire rack and discount tire and found pictures of 077's on them, but haven't really found anything I like yet and not sure I like 077's on them. I like them on 5th & 6th gens for sure. Anyone have any suggestions? I think I want polished wheels instead of black wheels, but I definitely don't want chrome or silver.
  6. i have some water that comes in.car does need a windshield badly but i have rust that needs to be addressed.is it something i can do on my own after the windshield is out?whats involved?any advice would be appreciated.. also in the rear window the molding is coming up what can be done to remedy that?
  7. Hey Everyone - I'm contemplating on whether or not to get my 92 GP rims refinished. They are the Richard Petty edition rims in blue. The reason that I want to get them refinished is because the crosslace part is in pretty bad shape. The painted part is fine, however Have a couple of questions - The place that would refinish the rims would do the entire rim - including the painted parts for the same price. Does anyone know if the inner part of the wheel is the exact same color as the exterior of the car? The color on the window sticker is Lt Blue Metallic (9614) however all of the aftermarket paint places say that 9614 is Neon Blue Metallic. When they refinish the rim - is the outer lip the same finish as the crosslaces? I just want to make sure they stay close to original as possible - so I want to make sure that they are doing the right thing. I really am not to savvy on this - so any advice would be great. I just bought the car and pics will come soon Thanks everyone!
  8. Turns out there are 2 different manufacturers of the 16 x 8 xlaces On the inside of the wheel on the hub, they are marked either Alcoa or Enkei. Alcoa made them first, Enkei's are the later ones. I know my 90 TGP has Alcoa's and Jamie's 95 GTP has Enkei's. The easiest way to differentiate is that the Enkei's have the Enkei logo on the edge of the lace, right beside the lip, whereas the Alcoa's have nothing. Post the year of your vehicle and whether it has Alcoa's or Enkei's.
  9. So this past Saturday, several of us local locos (including Euro and Rich17 from here) went to the U-Pull-It yard despite the fact that it had snowed that morning, was cold and the winds were unrelenting. I'm going down the "new arrivals" row, which I always do first, and on the end is a 7th and 6th gen GP. The 7th gen was a GTP Comp G no less! Engine bay was toasted, and the front wheels had popped due to the fire. Driver's side wheel was bent, but the passenger side just looked like it needed to be polished up (was covered in soot and such). The back 2 looked like they were pretty nice. I went back up to the counter to ask how much they'd be. "Ehhh...tertee dollars each". So....I removed the 2 lug nuts holding each of the 3 good wheels on as my hands went numb from using the freezing wrench (no, I didn't have gloves), and had "Jose" lift the car up in the air for easy tire removal. I'm still a LITTLE worried about the front passenger one because the inside lip looks rough, but I'm pretty sure it can be cleaned up. Here's what one of the wheels looked like when I got it home. And here's what one of them looked like after I quickly took some Never Dull to it (best wheel cleaning stuff EVER!). Also threw on one of my newer style center caps, which look much better IMO. Yes, it's starting to show signs of the infamous GM wheel chrome peel, but so far it's limited to the insides of the wheels, and the far inside of the lug nut holes. All in all, I'm fairly happy for $90 for 3 rims. For reference, here's what they look like on a Gen 6 GP...
  10. I was at a pull a part today in Cleveland, and saw what I thought was a strange convertible. I don't know any specific info on how they were equipped, but here is what I saw; 3100 engine, no "lip" tail lights or spoiler, single exhaust. It was definately a 95 because it had the newer dash. I thought all the convertibles had the 3400 motor, duals, and the lip tail lights. Just curious. By the way, if anyone needs parts for one, that particular one is really trashed, so if you need something, I wouldn't drive too far out of your way to see it.
  11. Oil Pump Drive Seal Fix by: Shaun Ewing You Will Need: O-Ring, GM Part Number: 10477565 Coolant Carb Cleaner (for cleaning the throttle body) Various sockets and extensions Step One: Completely remove the airbox by unbolting it and removing the intake hose, intake temperature sensor (on the airbox) and PCV tube. This will help give you more room to work. Step Two: Disconnect the vacuum lines that are on top of the throttle body (these are all grouped together. Now, remove the two coolant lines running into the TB (These are a major pain in the ass to get off. I ended up cutting mine, and bypassing the TB alltogether). Remove the connections for the Idle Air Control (IAC) and Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Now, you have two choices. You can leave the throttle cables attached, and try to move the TB out of the way, or you can disconnect those cables and remove the TB completely. I took mine out all the way because it made it easier to clean. Step Three: Release fuel system pressure by using this valve. Unscrew the protective cover, and using a rag to catch the fuel, press it down until there is no more pressure left in the system. Be careful, the fuel in this line is under a moderately high pressure, and can come up and spray into your eye. Not fun. Disconnect the two fuel lines that are connected to the fuel rail. Move these out of the way. Step Four: Remove the bolt from the C-clamp holding the drive assembly down. Remove the C-clamp. To remove the oil pump drive assembly, you have two options. You can use a sharp chisel and wiggle it under the lip (what I did) or try your luck at using pliers. Whatever you find easier. Remove the old O-ring. (It will be old and brittle and will probably fall into pieces) Step Five: Coat the O-ring in motor oil and slide it on into the drive shaft. It fits directly into the grove that the old one came out of. The new GM o-ring is made of silicone and will stretch without breaking (but put it on FROM THE BOTTOM, not the top, It doesn't stretch that much) Step Six: Push the oil pump drive assembly back into the hole. It probably won't go all the way in on the first try. Try and try again. Pick it up and rotate it until it goes down far enough to replace the c-clamp (It won't go down ALL the way because of the new o-ring. The c-clamp pushes it the rest of the way down) Reattach the fuel line. Replace the TB and all associated cables, vacuum lines, and wiring. Reattach the airbox and all hoses. Enjoy your new non-leaking W!
  12. Found a compatable replacement for our deteriorated weatherstrip. The exterior window sweeps on "bubble body" Camaros and Firebirds, the mid 90'S ones I believe. I removed both from a junk yard car (driver and passenger) in a junk yard that still lets people in. Put a putty knife between top of door and rubber toward back of door and tap it in and up then cut it with tin snips near the mirror. I checked GMpartsdirect.com and I believe they can be bought new for 40 bucks a side. The rubber has a lip on it, but that's under the trim piece so it doesn't show. You set the lip on top of the steel toward the front of the car, and it's lifted up about a 1/4" at the rear. If you look at your originals you'll see that the holes are at different heights from the bottom also. I drilled the front first, then the rear, then the two in the middle. Couldn't find 5/32 stainless rivets so I drilled them out to 3/16.
  13. Can someone tell me a good place to find the tail lights that match the lip spoiler for a 93 cutty convertable? I need both and have not had much luck finding a set. Thanks
  14. Hey all, new the the site. I have a 93 cutlass supreme convert. Has been a great car but it got some damage to the trunk lid in a recent storm. I am looking for a new lip spoiler for the lid. can anyone point me as to where i can get one. The only thing i have found so far is a universal lip spoiler made by JSP. Also while i am at it, I need a drivers door LATCH. Cant find one of those either. Thanks
  15. hey everyone, my name is Joel, ive been a member on here for a while but never introduced myself so here i am kinda joined never posted, and then got stuck creeping around on here at school today since the forum i mainly go to (grandprixforums.net) is blocked.... got stuck and now here i am and finding some great stuff as always haha as i already said i am a member of gpf, and im also a member of gpona.com. im also iroc2 on both of those i dont have anything special done to my car right now, just flowmaster super 40 mufflers and tips (no recent pics) and tinted tails. im hopiong to add HUD and the first gen trip computer (dic/did), tints, id like to lower and hope i can get some pointers, get my wheels powder coated black with a polished lip. and pics of my car: pics of my car were featured on the cover of the nov/dec issue of domestic driver http://domesticdriver.com/
  16. Does it fit? Wandering through the junkyard today I found a torch red lumina ltz WITH a perfect condition lip spoiler and a good condition trunk. Since my trunk lid has already had holes cut in it for the aftermarket spoiler which I don't care for, I figured it'd be easier to just swap my rear panel onto the lumi trunk and bolt that on instead. So as long as someone confirms it fits I'll go grab it in the next couple days.
  17. I was looking at spacing the rear wheels out 22mm and the tire would be about flush with the rear quarter. I'm not really sure what the travel is on the suspension and was wondering if it would hit that lip. I'm running 245 50 16 tires so there is a little more clearance due to the overall smaller diameter. Anyone have experience with this?
  18. Hi folks, anyone out here decided to put the little trunk lip and flared out tail light on their vert...and how did you like it? Much trouble to do? Thanks in advance! Jack
  19. I'm wanting to refinish my crosslace wheels on my Grand Prix (looks like someone bombcanned them silver and did a shitty job cuz the lip is silver and not machined), but I'm not sure how to go about this. I've thought of sandblasting them, but they are aluminum and could harm them, but would be the easiest way, since all of the tiny little "X" spokes would be a bitch to sand down by hand. How about chemically stripping them with aircraft stripper? Has anyone ever refinished them? If so, please post pics and how you did it. Also, would it work if I polished the lip of the wheels by hand and then lightly sandblasted the rest of the wheel and painted them?
  20. Guys and Gals, Been a bit since I have been on the board. My wife and I had the baby and everything is great. I just now am getting to a normal life. I had my show car in a indoor "autorama" show last weekend. The weekend was great with highlights being, a 1st place class win, a street achivement and lastly a sign up for a mag shoot in a "pontiac" mag. I can not disclose which yet. Anyways, I have been offered to get a free or heavly discounted set of wheels. I want the staggard look. With a lip. I know we can fit more in the rear. I guess I am looking for some fitment help. I do have the intraxx front springs and the coil over set up in the back. With KYB's all the way around.
  21. Hi all, The usual, 97 CS 3100 with like 199k km's up here in Canada with cold winters. I was suprised to notice from yellow sludge underneath the oil cap this past mid December. We did an oil change and sludge was still there, actually more quantity, all along the top of the inside of the valve cover. I've tried driving the car hard and more on highways but the sludge is still there. In very cold temperatures the sludge freezes while in mild its goey. I've read up quite a bit about it and if I'm not mistaken its moisture in the oil. We have no sludging problem in warmer months like this past summer so this gets me quite concerned. Just for curiosity I took out the PCV valve to check and it did have sludge in it, (i just wiped the visual sludge, and it rattles) and in the pipe before it which goes to the intake. Should the PCV valve be changed? I do not think it has been changed on the Olds yet, if ever it was done it would have been at least 4-5 years ago. Ago for the last couple of years I've always noticed that the oil lip, just below the oil filter theres always oil, even though we tighten the oil filter, and clean it off previous gaskets. I did read up that faulty PCV valves create more crankcase pressure plus oil leaks out... do you guys think its worth it to change the PCV valve or just a waste of time...? Could the dipstick be allowing moisture in? I noticed that I have to add oil every few months, and very little coolant like once or twice a year. We did the LIM gasket so I don't think that should be a problem. Another thing is that I've been adding power steering fluid a couple of times a year too, it seems to be a very slow leak, does anybody know the common places for PS fluid to start leaking from? Thanks for any help.
  22. So, for inquiring minds, when heading to the JY, what is the parts demand these days? I remember being able to strip a car, and pretty much sell everything off. Now it appears that only certain parts are worth pulling. The yard I started visiting recently has about most any part (hoods, lip tails and spoiler, 89-93 front valence, etc....). However, I'm not going to start pulling stuff that used to pull sales if there is no demand for them. There are 1, 1.5, and 2 gen's at this yard.
  23. I was at the JY today and spotted a mid '90's Cutlass Supreme. It was bright red with gold emblems, lip spoiler and cloth interior. I grabbed the emblems and the lip spoiler (the tails were already gone) I couldn't get the hood open to see what engine it had, I assume probably a 3100 since it did not have DOHC emblems. The Collectors Edition emblems were in the same place the International emblems would have been. What was so special about these cars? I only grabbed the emblems for my emblem collection.
  24. i got bored today so i painted the out side of one of my spare 5 spokes red should i keep it like this or just the outer lip.... keep in mind this is a fast job if i were to do it i would take more time
  25. Here is a more detailed outline to the process of restoring my wheels. I started out by having them media blasted. Then coated them in aircraft paint remover. After that i power washed them in hot water. Then the hard work. I sanded each lip with 120, 400, 1000 grit sandpaper. Then went over them with a super fine steel wool. After that a rubbing compound to get them to shine. When i started Then the aircraft paint stripper After paint stripper and power washing Ready for paint minus tape over the lip In paint Once wheel finished.
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