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Found 4 results

  1. Overview: This guide covers removal and reinstallation of both the Harmonic Balancer and Crankshaft Position Sensor on a Series II/Series III 3800. Tools Required: 24mm socket for the crank bolt, 19mm socket for the lug nuts, 18mm socket for the subframe bolts, 15mm/belt tool for the belts, 13mm socket for the crank position sensor bolts, 10mm socket for the flexplate inspection cover, harmonic balancer puller, OEM 27296 GM 3800 bolt kit, screwdriver, various extensions, torque wrench, breaker bar/impact/both, vice grips, ratchet. Instructions: 1. Remove the drive belt(s) from the engine. 2. Lift the passenger side of the car and remove the right front wheel. Always use jackstands, NEVER trust jacks, especially not scissor jacks. Only place jackstands on a solid surface like concrete or asphalt. 3. Remove the flexplate inspection cover: 4. Put vice grips on the flexplate to prevent it from rotating. There is probably a J-tool for this, but this how I've always done it: 5. Remove the undercarriage passenger side splash shield. 6. Lower the subframe/engine cradle on the passenger side by approximately one inch. You should not be totally removing the bolts and insulators. 7. Remove the harmonic balancer bolt. 8. Insert the adapter pin from the OEM kit into the hole in the balancer where the bolt came out of. 9. Attach the balancer remover. You should be using washers on the heads of the bolts, unlike my picture: 10. Tighten the center bolt on the puller until the balancer comes loose. Remove the puller and remove the balancer. If you're only replacing the balancer, you are done with removal. Proceed to step 16. 11. With the balancer removed, unplug the connector from the CKPS. Looks like I have a small front main seal leak. I'll worry about it later: 12. Remove the black plastic debris shield. 13. Remove the two 13mm bolt/studs that hold the CKPS. Remove the CKPS. 14. Install new CKPS. Bolt torque is 22 lb ft. 15. Reinstall debris shield and plug sensor in. 16. Reinstall harmonic balancer and bolt. Torque is 111 lb ft, plus 76°. 17. Reinstall splash shield. 18. Remove vice grips and reinstall dust cover. 19. Reattach wheel and torque lug nuts to 100 lb ft. 20. Reinstall drive belts.
  2. Accelerator Control Cable Bracket Bolt 16 N·m 12 lb ft Balance Shaft Driven Gear Bolt 22 + 70° N·m 16 + 70° lb ft Balance Shaft Retainer Bolt 30 N·m 22 lb ft Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt 10 N·m 89 lb in Camshaft Sprocket Bolt 100 + 90° N·m 74 + 90° lb ft Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolt 15 N·m 11 lb ft Canister Purge Solenoid Valve Bracket Bolt (VIN K) 50 N·m 37 lb ft Canister Purge Vacuum Switch Bolt (VIN K) 50 N·m 37 lb ft Connecting Rod Cap Bolt 27 + 50° N·m 20 + 50° lb ft Crankshaft Balancer Bolt 150 + 76° N·m 111 + 76° lb ft Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap Bolt 40 + 110° N·m 30 + 110° lb ft Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap Bolt (Side) 15 + 45° N·m 11 + 45° lb ft Crankshaft Position Sensor Stud 30 N·m 22 lb ft Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Housing Bolt 15 + 50° N·m 11 + 50° lb ft Cylinder Head Bolt 50 + 120° N·m 37 + 120° lb ft Drive Belt Tensioner Bracket Bolt/Nut 50 N·m 37 lb ft Drive Belt Tensioner Bracket Stud 6 N·m 53 lb in EGR Valve Adapter Bolt 50 N·m 37 lb ft EGR Valve Inlet Pipe Bolt 29 N·m 21 lb ft EGR Valve Nut 29 N·m 21 lb ft EGR Valve Outlet Pipe Bolt/Nut 29 N·m 21 lb ft Engine Block Coolant Drain Plug (VIN 1) 18 N·m 13 lb ft Engine Block Coolant Drain Plug (VIN K) 30 N·m 22 lb ft Engine Block Oil Gallery Plug 30 N·m 22 lb ft Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 25 N·m 18 lb ft Engine Flywheel Bolt 15 + 50° N·m 11 + 50° lb ft Engine Front Cover Bolt/Stud 20 + 40° N·m 15 + 40° lb ft Engine Lift Bracket Bolt/Nut/Stud 30 N·m 22 lb ft Engine Mount Nut, Lower 78 N·m 58 lb ft Engine Mount Nut, Upper 78 N·m 58 lb ft Engine Oil Pressure Indicator Switch 16 N·m 12 lb ft Exhaust Crossover Heat Shield Nut 20 N·m 15 lb ft Exhaust Crossover Pipe Bolt/Stud 18 N·m 13 lb ft Exhaust Manifold Bolt/Nut 30 N·m 22 lb ft Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Nut 20 N·m 15 lb ft Exhaust Manifold Stud (Inner) 30 N·m 22 lb ft Exhaust Manifold Stud (Outer) 10 N·m 89 lb in Fuel Injector Rail Nut 10 N·m 89 lb in Fuel Injector Rail Stud 25 N·m 18 lb ft Fuel Injector Sight Shield Bracket Nut 30 N·m 22 lb ft Generator Brace Bracket Bolt 50 N·m 37 lb ft Heated Oxygen Sensor 42 N·m 31 lb ft ICM Bolt (VIN 1) 30 N·m 22 lb ft ICM Nut 50 N·m 37 lb ft ICM Stud (VIN K) 6 N·m 53 lb in ICM Wiring Harness Bolt 2 N·m 18 lb in Idler Pulley Bolt 50 N·m 37 lb ft Idler Pulley Bracket Bolt 30 N·m 22 lb ft Lower Intake Manifold Bolt 15 N·m 11 lb ft MAP Sensor Bolt (VIN 1) 3 N·m 27 lb in MAP Sensor Bracket Bolt (VIN 1) 30 N·m 22 lb ft Oil Cooler Adapter Connector 50 N·m 37 lb ft Oil Filter 30 N·m 22 lb ft Oil Filter Adapter Bolt 15 + 50° N·m 11 + 50° lb ft Oil Level Indicator Switch 20 N·m 15 lb ft Oil Level Indicator Tube Nut 19 N·m 14 lb ft Oil Pan Bolt 14 N·m 125 lb in Oil Pan Drain Plug 30 N·m 22 lb ft Oil Pump Cover Screw 11 N·m 98 lb in Oil Pump Screen Bolt 15 N·m 11 lb ft Power Brake Booster Heat Shield Nut 20 N·m 15 lb ft Spark Plug 27 N·m 20 lb ft Starter Motor Heat Shield Bolt 30 N·m 22 lb ft Supercharger Bolt/Stud (VIN 1) 23 N·m 17 lb ft Supercharger Bypass Valve and Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve Harness Bolt (VIN 1) 10 N·m 89 lb in Supercharger Bypass Valve Nut (VIN 1) 8 N·m 71 lb in Throttle Body Nut 10 N·m 89 lb in Throttle Body Support Bolt (VIN K) 10 N·m 89 lb in Timing Chain Dampener Bolt 22 N·m 16 lb ft Upper Intake Manifold Bolt (VIN K) 10 N·m 89 lb in Valve Lifter Guide Retainer Bolt 30 N·m 22 lb ft Valve Rocker Arm Bolt 15 + 90° N·m 11 + 90° lb ft Valve Rocker Arm Cover Bolt 10 N·m 89 lb in Water Outlet Bolt 27 N·m 20 lb ft Water Pump Bolt 15 + 80° N·m 11 + 80° lb ft Water Pump Pulley Bolt 13 N·m 116 lb in Wiring Harness Shield Bolt/Nut 10 N·m 89 lb in
  3. In an effort to preserve information about these cars and tuning, I figure I'd write this up. This information was figured out by the members of GrandPrixForums, but the thread that it's in is very long and full of off-topic posting. Overview: Owners may wish to delete the rear oxygen sensor in order to install a wideband in the factory bung location. In 2001+ cars, this causes a new cat diagnostic to run repeatedly, skewing fuel trims and negatively impacting fuel economy. Cause: Beginning in MY 2001 (and possibly some prior MY California emissions cars), GM added a cat diagnostic test in order to determine the efficiency and operation of both the catalyst and rear O2 sensor. This test works by richening the fuel trims to an extreme degree in order to saturate the catalyst, then waiting for the O2 to respond appropriately. It will run this test over and over during cruise until it is satisfied. Without a rear O2, the test never passes and fuel economy suffers. LTFT readings will also skew rich (high double digit LTFTs), causing tuning difficulties. O2 Simulators do not correct the issue because the PCM is expecting a specific response from the amount of fuel being dumped. Fix: Utilizing Tiny Tuner, this diagnostic can be disabled. As of April 2017, HPTuners still does not offer this ability. By and large, this patch is available for most 2011-2014 L36, L67, L32, L82, and LA1 OSIDs, but some may be missing. To disable the test, open your .bin in Tiny Tuner and navigate to the following: Diagnostics > Main > CAT Diagnostic Enable Coolant Temp Stock is 20. Change to 285 (positive, not negative like the screenshot). Navigate to Diagnostics > Main > CAT Diagnostic Tests per Trip Stock is 18. Change to 0. This should disable the O2 diagnostic test going forward. Errata: The original version of this document (and the screenshots) suggest changing the enable temp to -285. This value is too low and would allow the diagnostic to run anyway. The diagnostic would run every time the car is driven until interrupted. After interrupted, the test would be suspended. Setting it to a high value that the car would never see prevents it from running at all.
  4. Hi All, After poking around in the engine bay i noticed a small connector with a blue backing at the top rear of the engine above the rear valve cover. It is unplugged and i can not find where it plugs into. The Ho2S is there and connected but this is above it. The L67 engne does not have it according to the 2002 Grand Prix Service Manual. There is no idiot lights on and it runs just fine. There is according to my mulimeter 11.9V DC going to it with engine turned to ON postion but not started. Is it supoosed to be like this? What does it actually do? Thanks Grandprix1
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