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Found 234 results

  1. So after some fidgeting around I finally found the perfect combo to get the rear plugs out. This can be done without removing anythings, without rocking the engine, without cutting the firewall lip. I did all three of my rear plugs in under 15 minutes, and the hardest part was just getting the wires back in because of the goofy plastic tubey thingy that they go in. Here's what you'll need: 1/2" socket wrench 1/2" 5" extension 1/2" to 3/8" socket adaptor 3/8" universal joint 3/8" 3" extension 3/8" extension connected to your spark plug socket Here's what you do: First remove the plug wire. You may have to use a little bit of force and some twisting and wiggling, but it can be done. With the socket and first extension already connected, lower it into the plug hole enough so that you can still hold it with one hand (and not drop it in). Once you have it down far enough for the second 3" extension to be down past the lip, pop it on to the first extension. Drop it a little further so you can get the U joint on. At this point you should be able to get the socket most of the way down onto the plug. You should be able to now pop the adaptor on, and then the 5" extension. Once you do this, it's pretty self explanatory. You'll have to loosen the plug and then reverse the process (removing each section), but then you should have your plug out, and installation of the new plug is reverse. Again, took me all of 15 minutes to do all three, and half that time was probably fighting to get the wires back on
  2. I literally just need a few small parts to have 100% everything I need to do August's 5 speed swap. I need: clutch fluid reservoir, preferable with hose, but I can take care of that. Rubber grommets to go on the firewall plus the metal retaining ring, this is for 282. the grommets for a 284 are probably not compatible due to the larger shift and select cable sizes. I'll have to 100% verify that. 284 retaining ring is the same part. let me know how much shipped to 16001 Thanks -Chris
  3. Anyone have a pic of a firewall after "modding" for headers? Im gonna use s and s headers
  4. On my 1988 olds cutlas supreme FWD- 2.8 engine- im almost done !!-yet help is needed!!- On the throttle body (top) there is a rubber vacumn line connector- it has 4 lines- 1989 has 3 lines- what i cant find is where the HVAC/ cruse labled = line goes to ?? diagram says =Hvac/cruse- diagram does not tell where it goes to -appears maybe thru firewall>???> yet I cannot find -where it goes to ? Where does this plastic line hook to?? The crusie controll on drivers side engine compartment has 2 lines on it going to -INSIDE the car. This line i cant find goes from the throttle body to --????????? where??& its labled hvac / cruise on all diagrams for 1988 & 89 same line - yet shown not where it goes to.!! Help as im lost in space!! I have noticed when im ideling the car ( not driving as yet) the heater also does not work!--No differences between defrost & floor heater?? therefore im assuming the line im searching for somehow connects -- somewhere for that also . Any help is needed Thanx!!!!!!!
  5. Hi All, I am working on replacing the heater core in my 92 Olds Cutlass Supreme S 3.1. There was a thread on the forum that had great verbal descriptions on how to complete the job but all the images had been lost on ImageShack hosting them. Anyway, I am to the point of removing the heater core but am not certain whether I need to remove everything including the pipes through the firewall and if I have to also remove the pipes from the firewall it seems I need to remove a clip or some such thing from inside the engine compartment rather from the passenger compartment side. I've done a bunch of work on this car but this is the first heater core. Any suggestions on how to complete it would be welcome. Thanks kindly, Mike
  6. Hi, im new to the l67 (or any variation thereof). I got bored one day so I got on craigslist to see what I had to offer. i bought a totaled 2001 ssei Bonneville. not too much damage but the insurance company thought other wise. After searching the forums I wanted to come up with a 1 of a kind swap that would be easy and cheap to build, be unique, and be a sleeper. I found a 1998 vw beetle. then I got to measuring and cutting. sorry for some reason the pics are not in order. I cut the Pontiac at the firewall. then I cut the REAR floor pan and trunk floor. measured and notched the vw frame. I put the Pontiac subframe and unibody in place and started welding and plating. then I cut the rear deck out of the Pontiac and placed it over the engine in the rear of the car.
  7. Hi all, The short story is I pulled the motor on my '92 GTP for a clutch job and I noticed my DIC is showing "CK. FUEL" with no speed/range/econ data available. I ran DIC diagnostics on it, and the 1st two digits agreed with my fuel level, but the 7th digit is showing an X instead of S, meaning an ECM serial data failure. So I tried connecting my Snap-On MT-2500 scanner to the ALDL line. It gets power, but can't connect to the ECM in scanning mode. I pulled it off and tested shorting the A&B ALDL pins, and the dash flashed the 1-2 code series to say everything's OK. The manual says that I should check my wiring on the orange 461 wire for short or open, but I haven't messed with anything in there lately and as far as I can tell it looks OK under the dash, and also from the firewall harness connector back to the ECM. I doubt it would be a problem in the DIC itself, but haven't ruled that out. Anyone else ever had this happen before? Is there another point where I can do continuity tests on that wire to figure out what's going on?
  8. There is a sensor mounted on the firewall with a hose going to the inner fender. It looks like a map sensor, but there is already one on the engine. What is it? Also there are two unconnected wires, one near the harness which hooks to the sensor in the intake duct, and one going to the harness going to the firewall.
  9. I had the need to work against the firewall today and removed the engine strut mounts (Dog Bones) on the 90 Lumina. The struts fell apart, so I picked up a new set. (the rubber fell out of the struts) Upon re-assembly, I noticed that the mounts are out of alignment. Picture bolting the strut to the frame, then bringing the engine side of the strut up to the engine, but the engine mount does not align with the strut. It's as if the engine needs to be moved to the right (driver-side) by about 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch in order for the strut to drop into the mount. I have a feeling the new struts will suffer if installed with the alignment issue. Anyone know of a fix for this? Having not had to remove the engine struts since I had the transmission rebuilt, I wonder if the engine had been moved, thus throwing the struts out of alignment. Thanks for any help or suggestions!
  10. Loud squeal seems to be coming from area between engine and firewall. Does it with belt off. Does it in park and changes pitch off squeal when driving in any gear. Squeal stops after trans shifts and rpm drops below 2000rpm. Any body had this problem? Ideas? It really sucks driving it like this
  11. So to try to save myself 100 bucks at best buy, I tried to drill the hole for my monoblock subwoofer amp wire myself. I guess I'm in way over my head, and will be shelling out money to best buy tomorrow I tried to use these suggestions in this thread I started a while ago as a guideline for where I drilled. Anyways, both places I drilled did not end up coming out on the other side of the firewall. Should I start freaking out that I drilled into something important? It did not feel like I drilled into anything. I stopped the drill as soon as it reached whatever it reached on the other side of the metal. The car starts and runs fine. That's one of the holes, this one is underneath the steering wheel. And that's the other one, in the passenger foot well close to the middle of the car. A bit tricky to see but its peeking out from behind the foam.
  12. I have a 1990 Chevy Lumina with the 3.1 muti-port. I was wondering if there is anyway of getting more room back by the firewall to remove the spark plugs?
  13. The coupler on my EGR electrical lead is damaged to the point to where it won't stay connected. Anyone know where the other end goes to? I can solder a new connector onto the EGR side, but the other end goes down between the engine and the firewall and is too short to work on. I would like to disconnect the other lead so I can mend it but not sure where it is going.
  14. Just noticed this broken on the firewall on the driver side. The nipple that the vacuum hose attaches to has broken off. Looking on eBay for a replacement but I'm not having much luck not knowing what this part is. Can anyone help me identify it? 1993 Grand Prix w/LQ1
  15. Hey guys, I'm trying to find a good spot to send a vacuum line and a few wires through the firewall. The end goal is to get them to the a-pillar, but I don't want to have to tear apart the dashboard to get to them. Anybody ever done this before and know of a good place to drill? Then engine and transmission are out of the car so the sky's the limit.
  16. I put a 3.1 turbo motor out of a 89 TGP into my 91 Cutlass convertible. I am looking for the pinout for the C100 firewall connector for a 91 Cutlass Supreme. The car runs but there are a few minor electronic issues I am working to correct. I think they are post ECM but want to make sure. Does anyone know where I can get the pinout information?
  17. i'm starting to look at options, and a big question i have has to do with the engine wiring harness. i have only ever owned 2.8/3.1, which of course are the same. i'm looking for something to swap my engine/trans into, and i would like to know if there are differences in the firewall connector between the 2.8/3.1/3100/3.4/etc? i'm not interested in doing any major wiring work on the interior of the car
  18. I would like to switch my TGP to vacuum brakes because of the hard to find PMIII units. I did find a spare at a junkyard for $10, but i would rather have vacuum brakes. I need to buy the firewall plate, brake booster, and master cylinder right? Am i missing anything? Before i forget, How do i fix the check gauge/ gauge cluster not working problem?
  19. i need to rep;ace my heater core which was recently bypassed. does anyone know if its under the dash like most other ones? so i have to remove the dash to get to it? i dont see it under the hood all i see is the hoses going into the firewall. please reply, pics if you have them thanks.
  20. I've long suspected my o2 sensor is causing my car to run rich. It's one of the last sensors i've never replaced; that and the coolant sensors . I just bought and received the magnaflow downpipe and cat for future turbo install. I also ordered 2 weld on SS o2 sensor bungs to add a wideband monitor for a A/F ratio gauge. 1 for the wideband and 1 for the engine management. Is it important to have the O2 sensor close to the manifold to get correct readings? I've always wondered why they seem to be stuck between the firewall and engine where it's nearly impossible to get at them easily on most vehicles. If the factory O2 sensor needs to be close then there it will stay, otherwise it's going farther down the pipe where it's easier to get at. On a side note for those of you who are wise in the ways of engine management what's a good O2 reading on tuner pro for 91 lq1? i just got connected thanks to Robert!
  21. What parts are needed? I suspect the firewall plate, clutch master, brake master, and of course trans... Are there aftermarket clutches still out there? What power levels have these trans been put too?
  22. hey guys, Im installing a sunpro tach and vac gauge in my car. I am having trouble finding where to route the vacuum tubing for the vac gauge and the tach wire for the tach itself. I have looked all over the firewall and the only holes i see are from the TV cable and the throttle cable. Im not sure if im overlooking any other holes, but if you guys can help me out with some pictures or just references id really appreciate it. Thanks.
  23. So i got some headers installed in my monte. Took alot of massaging just to get them in. But the rear header seems to rubbing against the firewall right underneath the ac line. Causing random vibrations when driving, turning and turning AC on. Shop wasnt sure if its okay to pound there or not. Told me to wait to see if it settles after week or so then we'll see what else we can do. Front pic:
  24. Not sure if I posted this wrong but. Are there any special tricks to replacing the front right (passenger side) brake line? Doing this without having to take apart nearly the whole damn car forward of the firewall?
  25. I was planning on hooking up my fog lights today, but I couldn't find anywhere in the firewall to squeeze the wires through.. Does anyone know where the stock wiring harness goes through the firewall? Thanks in advance guys.
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