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Found 3,760 results

  1. The Cutlass Supreme convertible top is a standard two-piece design. According to convertibletopguys.com: “Almost all Ford, GM and Chrysler convertible tops install as two separate units. They are the main top and the rear window section. This is the original design since the thirties and the design is fundamentally unchanged until much later…The rear window section is often called the ‘curtain.’†The original top on Cutlass Supreme convertibles was double texture pinpoint vinyl. When replacing the top, though, you have several options when it comes to materials (the following material explanations are excerpted in large part from 1aauto.com with some notes added and irrelevant material removed): Single Texture Pinpoint vinyl: This is the most common replacement material used for Cutlass Supreme convertibles. This is a good, durable vinyl that matches the grain of many original tops from the 40's to the 80's. This material weighs 36 ounces per square yard. The outside is a pinpoint vinyl while the inside is lined with cloth. Less expensive convertibles have been known to use this material. MOST aftermarket top seller's tout single texture vinyl as "the material the original OEM manufacturer used," when in fact most used double texture. To the untrained eye and hand it looks and may feel the same, but most cars that had a pinpoint vinyl top, built from the 40's to the 90's, used the double texture vinyl (Listed next). Although not the same, Single Texture Vinyl is still a good and commonly used replacement. It looks and feels nearly identical, will last almost as long, and for many restored vehicles that are garaged and covered, a single texture top could last 20 years or more if cared for properly. Double Texture Pinpoint vinyl (sometimes called Euro vinyl): 80% of Muscle cars and 40's - early 90's convertibles used double texture vinyl as the OEM material. The outside is a pinpoint vinyl while the inside is lined with cloth. Double texture vinyl weighs 38 ounces per square yard. The texture is a pinpoint texture nearly identical to single texture pinpoint vinyl. Double texture pinpoint costs a little more than the single texture pinpoint, however it is a more durable top and will last a few years longer. Single Texture Sailcloth vinyl: Many 90's convertibles such as Sebrings and Mustangs started using Sailcloth vinyl in place of pinpoint vinyl due to the fantastic texture. Standard interior color is black, gray interior cloth is available with some colors at an extra cost. The weight of Sailcloth vinyl is 36 ounces per square yard. Sailcloth vinyl material has a woven texture that resembles a "richer" cloth top. Color choices in Sailcloth vinyl are more limited than those in pinpoint vinyl. Stayfast Cloth: Stayfast is a tightly woven cloth canvas. The yarn is solution dyed BEFORE it is woven, creating a uniform color throughout. Domestic made or converted vehicles that came with a cloth top most likely used Stayfast cloth. Stayfast holds strong in both extremely hot and cold climates. Due to its richer look, Stayfast tops are more expensive. Stayfast color choices are limited and white is unavailable. Cutlass owners who want to give their car a more upscale appearance (and do not need or want a white top) have upgraded to a Stayfast top, and are almost universally pleased with its improved appearance/texture as compared to the original-style vinyl tops. When replacing the top, the window is almost always replaced as well. It is generally not recommended that you attempt to detach your existing glass window and try to re-use it. According to 1aauto.com: “Glass windows are bonded or heat sealed in to the vinyl or cloth surrounding them. It is very difficult to install just the glass in to a vinyl curtain and it will cost you about as much to have this done as it is for a brand new window and curtain. If your window and the attached fabric are in good condition, you can re-use them, but the vinyl may not match the new top.†It is possible to replace the top with one containing a plastic window, but this is not recommended, as plastic windows looks cheap, are very flimsy, and scratch easily. Please allow the Cutlass ‘vert to retain its dignity by using a glass-windowed top, and leave the plastic windows to the Geo and Cavalier ‘verts. When selecting a glass window with your new top, you will have the option of choosing one with or without a defroster. The headliner is usually re-used if still in acceptable condition. Same with the top pads and cables, though there is some difference of advice here. Some websites recommend new pads and side cables with every new top, and new rear cables with every other top, while other sites and installers say that the side cables and pads only need to be replaced when their condition warrants it. It’s up to you. Most convertible manuals indicate that the complete top install takes about 10 hours, 7 for the main top piece, and 3 for the “curtain†(the secondary piece that holds the window). Labor costs can range from $400 to $1000, depending on the installer’s hourly rate. Some shops may allow you to buy the top and bring it to them, but be aware that some will inflate their labor a bit to compensate for the lost profit from selling you the top through them, and also may not warranty the installation, since they can’t verify the quality of a top brought to them by a customer. This means that you would have to make sure it looked right before leaving the shop. Convertibletopguys.com give some excellent advice: “If you decide to "hire out" the job: * Go to your yellow pages. Look under "automobile seat covers, upholstery and tops." Select a couple of shops and visit or call them. You want to determine that is their policy to provide installation service on tops that are not purchased from the shop. * Many shops are dealers themselves and represent a top manufacturer and will not want to sacrifice this re-sale aspect of their profit. Be wary of any shop that disparages a product that it does not carry. Although it is true that quality can vary, no company should use "scare tactics" to get your business.†While it is highly recommended that you have the top installed by a professional, it is possible, with patience and the correct tools, to install the top yourself. Be aware that it will likely take an inexperienced installer several times longer than a professional. Convertibletopguys.com sells a universal two-piece top manual, and it is also possible to acquire an original GM instructional video for the Cutlass ‘Vert top that several have said was a real help when installing the top themselves. If you will be buying a top to take to an installer, or will be attempting the install yourself, you will need to decide where to get a top from. Here are just a few sources (that also represent a range of the brands available) that sell Cutlass ‘vert tops: Topsonline.com—They have the best prices found to this point, though their selection is a bit limited (for example, they don't offer sailcloth texture option). The tops they sell for the Cutlass 'Verts are EZ-on, the most widely sold brand. Their quality is considered to be good. Convertibletopguys.com—They sell tops as part of a kit that includes side cables and pads. Their tops are Kee Tops, supposedly a pretty premium brand (though one installer I contacted said that “they think a lot of their tops [because of the higher price] but I’ve never noticed that they were any better than EZ-onâ€). This site is well-known for their knowledge and customer service. Several have commented that they were pleased with their transaction. Kee tops are also sold on sears.com’s website here: http://auto.sears.com/Oldsmobile-Cutlass-Convertible-Tops/600025340-200743174-1994-10623.htm. 1aauto.com—Their tops are made by Acme Headliner, and are supposed to be pretty good quality. These tops, at present (3/09) are the ones most commonly seen on Ebay. EZsofttops.com—They also carry EZ-on tops. Their prices are higher than topsonline.com, but they have a wider selection, offering sailcloth tops in various colors, including the “Brite White†that is the correct color white color for Cutlass ‘verts. JC Whitney—They have historically carried Electron tops. Some sources say that this is the economy brand of convertible tops, though one installer I contacted did actually say they were is favorite because of how easy they are to install. Electron tops are also available through Electrontop.com and topsdown.com. Robbins Tops—arguably the highest end brand, they only sell the main top piece, not the curtain. Their tops are sold through regional distributors. Wherever you buy your top from, make sure it comes with a 5-year warranty. This is pretty much standard. If they don’t offer this, their tops are probably of lesser quality than average. Cylinders and pumps are still available from a few sources. One is http://www.hydroe.com/Oldsmobile_Cutlass.html. If anyone can think of anything else that is needed, let me know and I’ll modify this thread.
  2. What center consoles are interchangeable with a 1996 Cutlass Supreme center console? I did a search at car-part.com but did not get any interchange parts. I saw a couple of 1997 Cutlass Supremes at the junkyard, and was wondering if those consoles were compatible. I really only need the console lid, if that makes a difference.
  3. The BLUE connector is C1. Wire A = a RED wire. Connect it to an ORANGE wire that is HOT ALL OF THE TIME. (I connected mine to the ORANGE wire that gives power to the cigarette lighter, but it is recommended that you connect it to the ELEC. Fuse #2 constant +12V (top row, middle fuse).) Wire B = PINK/BLACK. Connect it to a wire that is HOT IN RUN. (I connected mine to one of the PINK/BLACK wire in my dash, but it is recommended that you connect it to CLUST. Fuse #9 switched +12V (3rd row, far right).) Wire C = BROWN. Connect it to the light on input. In my car I have a YELLOW wire in slot C10 but I think that that is exclusive to the digi-dash. I want to soy that there should be a YELLOW wire coming out of the headlight switch that should work. I know that on my dash, when the lights are on, and the display is at MAX, then it has no power in the wire, but when I adjust the lever down, the wire becomes hot, and dims steadily. I use a tester that is just a screwdriver looking thing that has a point at one end, and an alligator clip that you hook up to ground. Wire D = GREY. Connect this to one of the grey wire for illumination. I hooked mine up to the GREY wire that lights up the bulb for the cigarette lighter light. Wire E = BLACK/WHITE. This is a ground. Wire F = BLACK/GREY. This wire is not used. Wire G = YELLOW. Connect this wire to the LITE BLUE wire in the dash (You may not have this wire). This is your English/metric wire. In my car, I push a button on the dash to change it from English (MPH) to metric (KPH). When this wire is hooked up, it automatically changes the DIC display from one to the other when the E/M button is pushed on the dash. This is a wire that is not necessary for the DIC to function, so if you do not have the wire, then just leave it unconnected. Wire H = BLACK. This is a ground. I hooked this up to the BLACK wire connected to the cigarette lighter light. The BLACK connector is C2. Wire A is ORANGE. Connect this to the ORANGE wire coming out of the ALDL connector under your dash. This is your SERIAL DATA INPUT where the DIC will get the info for your gauges button. Wire B = DARK GREEN. Connect this to the DARK GREEN wire in the dash. This is your Vehicle Speed Input. In my car it is wire number D15. Wire C = PINK. Connect this one to the PURPLE wire in the dash. This is your vehicle Fuel sender wire. In my car it is wire number D13. Wire D = BLACK/GREEN. This is another GROUND. It is not used in the 91 model. Driver Info System was not available 92+. You will not find a new cutlass with one. If you put one in your car, then it will go where the storage cubbyhole is under the ashtray. The screw-holes for the 98 Regency’s DIC is identical the Cutlasses, so it will go there with no problem. If you get the DIC out of a Cutlass, then be sure to get the storage pocket as well. IF (OR WHEN) you get the HUD, then the control switch will go where the storage is. 89-90 cars got a little pocket in the empty space. HUD control panel was mounted above the headlight switch (below the dash pad). 91 cars got a little pocket if they didn't have HUD. Cars with HUD got the control panel instead of the pocket. Is your headlight switch up high next to the speedometer with the foglight switch next to the air vent? If so, then the HUD switch goes in the pocket. My car headlight switch is located next to the vent, with the foglight switch next to the speedo. (INT'L models also had the BASS BOOST switch as well as the foglight switch) But I will still put the HUD switch next to the DIC.
  4. www.topsonline.com says that '92-'95 Cutlass Convertibles came with two different convertible top sizes- 53 or 54 inches across. Here's the link: http://www.topsonline.com/model/Convertible_Tops_And_Accessories/Oldsmobile/1992_thru_1995_Oldsmobile_Cutlass_And_Cutlass_Supreme.html I measured the tops on our '92 and '93 and they are closer to 53. Anybody know what the deal is on this? Did '94's and 95's get a slightly wider top? Is the top frame slightly wider on some convertibles?
  5. Since the people here are a plethora of great information I thought I would ask my questions here and avoid reinventing the wheel. I used to be a huge car audio guy and have done many installs, but most were 20+ years ago. So I know what I'm doing, but I also know that every car has its own issues and I figured I better find them out now. I have a 95 Cutlass Convertible and am looking to upgrade the stereo (deck, speakers, sub and amps). Full setup. What do I need to know? I know that I can go double din in the dash, which is cool. Front and rear speakers, how do I get to them and what do I put back in? Any recommendations for subs? I know as a convertible I won't get great bass, but the factory speakers don't even play bass I don't think, hehe. Finally, what steering wheel adapter works best? I want to retain both audio and HVAC control, if possible, is it? Thanks in advance!
  6. I know I'm probably tiring you folks...but you've been such a help alreay, and I've now resolved almost all the issues my "95 convertible had when I bought it, and it's only been two weeks! Here's the issue...since fixing the Quad Driver module fault this weekend, I'm down to a single DTC showing on my scantool. The car runs great while cool, no codes at all, but a some point, once the car gets warm, the TCC is no longer locked, and the transmission shifts out of overdrive into 3rd gear. That's where things stay. At that point, the scantool shows a P0740 (TCC error), the "Service Engine Soon" light never goes on. I thought at first this could be an issue of the transmission going into "hot mode", but according to the factory service manual, this occurs at temps above 266 degrees. Warmest the scantool has shown the transmission fluid so far is 211 degrees. So far, I've not found any wiring issues...any suggestions?
  7. Since it seems that we do have people that are unsure on how to access speakers, or take apart they're dashes, I figured I would go ahead and upload these. These are the only one's that I currently have. If I am missing some, either they are not available, or I totally forgot about that certain vehicle; Just let me know, and I'll let you know . If a guide is not available, and someone would like to make a nice write up, like the ones in the link, PM me the write up, and I will add it to this. Also, these are currently loaded onto Putfile, which has a 30 day experation, meaning 30 days from the last download, they delete the file off of the system. So... If someone that has a server would be kind enough to download all of these, then upload them to their own and PM me the links, I will glady update this thread. Hopefully this can be added to the FAQ or made a sticky. 88-94 Cutlass http://radio.digitaloutsider.org/wbodydb/tutorials/audioinstall/Cutlass88-93.pdf 95-97 Cutlass No available guide 88-91 Grand Prix http://radio.digitaloutsider.org/wbodydb/tutorials/audioinstall/GrandPrix88-01.pdf 92-93 Grand Prix http://radio.digitaloutsider.org/wbodydb/tutorials/audioinstall/GrandPrix92-93.pdf 94-96 Grand Prix http://radio.digitaloutsider.org/wbodydb/tutorials/audioinstall/GrandPrix94-96.pdf 97-99 Grand Prix http://radio.digitaloutsider.org/wbodydb/tutorials/audioinstall/GrandPrix97-99.pdf 00-03 Grand Prix http://radio.digitaloutsider.org/wbodydb/tutorials/audioinstall/GrandPrix00-03.pdf 00-05 Impala http://radio.digitaloutsider.org/wbodydb/tutorials/audioinstall/Impala00-05.pdf 98-03 Intrigue http://radio.digitaloutsider.org/wbodydb/tutorials/audioinstall/Intrigue93-03.pdf 90-94 Lumina http://radio.digitaloutsider.org/wbodydb/tutorials/audioinstall/Lumina90-93.pdf 95-99 Lumina/Monte Carlo http://radio.digitaloutsider.org/wbodydb/tutorials/audioinstall/MonteCarlo95-99.pdf 88-93 Regal http://radio.digitaloutsider.org/wbodydb/tutorials/audioinstall/Regal88-93.pdf 94-96 Regal http://radio.digitaloutsider.org/wbodydb/tutorials/audioinstall/Regal94-96.pdf 97-00 Regal http://radio.digitaloutsider.org/wbodydb/tutorials/audioinstall/Regal97-00.pdf 95-99 Riviera http://radio.digitaloutsider.org/wbodydb/tutorials/audioinstall/Riviera95-99.pdf
  8. I have a 93 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible that has the type of steering wheel that contains the radio and climate controll functions. The horn pads on these types of steering wheels alre well known to wear out and the horn will start beeping even when your not hitting the horn button. Most people just pull the fuse and that's it. Well, I have found a solution to this problem. The problem is that in between the horn contacts on both the left and right side of the steering wheel have this piece of material which is like a cardboard like material which compresses and literally crumbles away. When this happens, the horn contacts come in contact with one another and as a result, the horn starts beeping on its own. Well here is the fix... 1) Remove the horn pad 2) Pull back the left and right side of steering cover 3) Bend the contact pins straight and remove contacts 4) Go to your parts store and by a cork gasket making material. The type you would make your own gaskets out of 5) Trace your old pad onto the cork material and cut out 6) Reinstall the contact, contact cover, and horn pad Its a perfect fix. If you have any more questions let me know. I can also email pictures as well
  9. Okay, hopefully someone can help me here. I have a 95 Olds Cutlass Supreme Coupe. I am in dire need of a power window switch for it. I have searched online, every place it shows discontinued by GM. Searched local junk yards, the Cutlasses I am finding are 4 door. I have even tried local auto parts stores to no avail. Please tell me someone here has an old door somewhere that has one. Hell, I will pay you for it and the shipping!
  10. I recently bought my 95 Cutlass Convertible so I don't have a history with the car, but the car has, what I would call, terrible brakes. They stop me, and they will throw you forward in your seat a little if you two foot it, but I can't even get them to lock up, even on sand covered roads. I have said that if some animal was in the road, I would hit it because I wouldn't be able to stop fast enough. I have talked to the previous owner (who had the car for 17 years) and he said the car has always had a hard pedal with weak brakes. We have checked the calipers and they are all free. The car is supposed to have ABS but even under full brakes on a sandy road they don't kick in (probably because the tires never start sliding since they don't ever lock up). I did find a vacuum leak on the intake gasket so we will be fixing that to see if that helps, but I just want to make sure that I am not expecting something better than what I am ever going to get. What I have now just doesn't seem possible to be the way they came from the factory (but apparently is the way it has been for the last 17 years). Shouldn't I be able to actually lock the brakes up under a hard pedal?
  11. Need a new coolant tank, or a way to clean the one I have. Can find new tanks for older model Cutlass and later model Cutlass, but I can not find a new one for a 92 Cutlass Supreme. All I can find is tank caps. It's so dirty and stained, that I can only see the coolant level on the full hot mark. Is it worth even trying to clean it, and what is the best way to do it? If it can be cleaned, I will for dang sure put work into it to save a dollar. Edit: Should have put this topic in General I think.
  12. Looking for a set of 91-93 cutlass coupe or convertible seat belts for the doors. The plastic belt retainer cover on the bottom of the door has ripped on both doors and I'd like to find ones in good condition and in charcoal. Also looking for door mounted speaker mounts with covers in charcoal as well. shipping is to 18704
  13. These are 4th gen f-body weatherstrips in nice shape, cut and trimmed to length, clips removed and ready to drill and install on your 1992-1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme convertible. An excellent replacement for the oem weatherstrip that cracks and deteriorates over time. Here are some pics after drilling and riveting them on my 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme convertible. With trim reinstalled Here's a set I installed on my black 1994 vert. $60 including shipping anywhere in Canada or the lower 48 states. Payment accepted by paypal at: mshantz83@hotmail.com HOW TO: 91-95 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme convertible quarter window weatherstrip replacement 1) You will need to remove the B pillar trim. It's about 6 screws. 2) Have junk in the trunk? Remove it. 3) To remove the piece of trim below the weather stripping, you will need to go in the trunk. There are three 9mm nuts that attach it to the car. The last one is a stretch. There is also one phillips screw on the front of each trim piece by the door handles. 4) Once that is off you have a much better look at what your dealing with. 5) You will need to drill out those rivets. Roll down the window! You do not want to let the drill bit hit the glass. Use a rag in between the window and rivet. Remove the old weatherstripping. 6) Drill out the holes to accommodate your new rivets 7) Measure twice and drill once for the 4 rivet holes. Make sure they're in the right spot. 8) Time for the pop rivet gun! 9) Then pop in your new rivets. Now it's time to put the B pillar and trim back on. 10) Enjoy your new clean weather stripping. It looks a lot better than the old stuff.
  14. Project completed and now ready to ship. Cutlass Convertible Top Frame Pin Cup Kit - 2 each pin cups 2 each internal tooth washers 8 each Black Vinyl Pin Sheath and BONUS DVD When I bought the car, I found shortly afterward on Ebay a couple of GM Dealer vhs tapes. 1. Cutlass Convertible Top Diagnosis and Service 2. 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Product Training. Well, it occurred to me that the "Top Service" tape would be a valuable item for all vert owners and since I have a way of dubbing from vhs to dvd, I thought I would include a copy with the kit. The Cutlass product training is a salesmans guide to the 1994 Cutlass lineup hosted by John Goss of Motorweek. Thank you to DOHCRagTopGuy, 95TripleWhiteVert and 93luminaz34 for your payments. Your kits have been mailed. Thanks again to everyone who has participated and pledged participation allowing this to happen. To confirm: pricing is as follows: Paypal - $ 47.00 - to my account schmude@bellsouth.net Payments by check - $ 45.50 to - Dennis Schmude 2896 Oxford Way Duluth, GA 30096 Shipments to Canada - ADD $ 1.25 .
  15. Hello All. Is it possible to install an adaptor that allows use of the Steering Wheel Controls with an aftermarket radio in a 1991 Cutlas Convertible. The old Delco is cool but the sound stinks and there is no CD. And the casette is broken so I cant use it as an aux adaptor.
  16. Hello Vert owners. Can anyone tell me how and where to purchase the best repair manual? Also, my left side convertible top latch mechanism is stripped. Does aanyone have any ideas on how I could repair it? Thanks!
  17. https://www.reddit.com/r/thewholecar/comments/2hmsc8/1993_oldsmobile_cutlass_prostreet/ Found this on Reddit today. It's a 1993 Cutlass Supreme Coupe with a big block Olds 455 that's procharged pushing 900 crank HP. 780 of it goes right to the rear wheels. Wait...say again you ask? 780 horsepower to the REAR WHEELS! The engine is massive and towers out of the front of the car. The chassis is a tube frame with the body set on it. Yes that is a parachute hanging off the back of the car. While a RWD conversion is not ideal for most people modding these cars I thought it was a cool find none the less. More info can be found in the origional post and the imgur album is linked there too. This build ranks up there with that RWD Monte Carlo that was built in the '90's.
  18. I'm going to post here as well for easier searching. I was able to use the factory upper strut mount and bump stop by using some springs that have a 4 1/8" ID top and a 2 1/2" ID bottom. The springs are listed as "GM series" coil springs and are available from 250 to 600lb. The 250 and 300lb springs are 11" long. The 350lb and above springs are 10" long. The springs I used for my 1994 Cutlass Supreme Convertible were the springs rated at 300lbs /in. I ground down the factory upper spring isolator to make a tapered spacer (3/8" thick on one side and 1/8" thick on the other) to keep the spring parallel with the strut. Install the tapered spacer on the upper strut mount, then install the poly spring isolator and spring with thrust bearing, adjusting sleeve and nut. The guys at QA1 racing said to use never seize on the thrust bearing. I cut the bottom two rings off the bump stop. Parts List: (2) HAL-11HTBF300 springs $65.97 ea at summit racing (1) ENS-9-6101G Spring isolator $20.97 pr at summit racing. (1) HAL-7888-109 Thrust bearing kit $25.97 pr at summit racing. (2) COK-12452-H Coil over adjusting sleeve about $40/pr A1 Racing. (2) COK-12460 Coil over adjuster nut about $26/pr A1 Racing Total investment around $250 Wheels: 17X8 + 38 offset Tires: 255/45-17 Tire clearance at 1 3/4" drop. I've since went 2" drop and no tire rubbing on either the springs or the fenders yet. This is as low as I feel comfortable with so this is where I stop. 2" drop front. 2 1/2" drop rear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Does anyone know the stock side panel speaker size on a 92 cutlass convertible. Thanks rich
  20. I needed a new battery for a 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass with the 3.4 L engine. the "book" called for a group size 78 battery. The battery is 10 3/16" long, and fits in the tray, but there doesn't seem to be enough room for the windshield washer fluid container, which fits over the battery. I cannot seem to wedge the washer fluid container into position. The previous owner had a smaller battery in the car, probably a group 75, which is 9 1/16" long, and I was able to get the washer fluid container in the car with no problems using that battery. Was I spoiled by the smaller battery, and gave up to easily when the washer fluid tank wouldn't go back in place with the bigger battery? Are you supposed to "work the washer container" a bit to get it in place, or is a group size 78 battery too big for this space?
  21. I live in Marietta GA and I have a 1995 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible. I removed the top myself and I tried taking it to Marietta Auto Trim for replacement and they wouldnt take the job because the top was already taken apart. Does anyone have a recommendation for a person that would replace my top without it being on the car first? Any help or info is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  22. I've got a '95 Olds Cutlass Supreme with an L67. I have cooling fans from a 2000 GTP on it; however, I'm a bit baffled about the way they operate. Both fans run on the low-speed setting. On the high speed setting, only the fan on the passenger's side runs. Is this correct? I checked the voltage on the driver's side fan motor, and it drops to 0 when on the high speed setting. It seems like both fans should run on the high speed setting to me (although I do not know the way the system works). I have had cooling problems with this thing since I put it together last August. It stays cool as long as it's not idling still for >20-30 min. I just replaced the original 3.1 radiator with a radiator with 3 additional rows (when counting vertically). The core of my original radiator was 34 rows tall, while the newly installed one was 37. The radiator shop I purchased the radiator from claims that these 3 additional rows provide the same cooling efficiency with the stock 5/8 inch core width as a radiator with the stock number of vertical rows (34) with a 1 inch core width. This new radiator did help the problem, but I would still rather have both fans running on the high speed setting. That would ameliorate it completely I think. Have you guys with stock early 2000s GTPs observed the way the fans work? Thanks, Andy
  23. So the title pretty much says it, the fluid is coming from the brake piston and is all over the pad and the disc. I always seem to have leaky rear brakes regardless of the brand of re-manufactured or new (when they where available) parts. is there something better i am just missing? and can the tool that is used for re setting the ebrake be rented at a parts store? thanks
  24. Ended up with another Gen 1 (not complaining). After my asshole roommate blew up the engine in my Mark VIII a friend gave me this... 1997 Olds Cutlass Supreme coupe. Clearcoat is gone on the hood and tops of the fenders and front bumper. The passenger side body kit needs to be repainted as well. There is also minor damage to the passenger side from when the previous owners hit a deer. Not going to go crazy with the mods on this one until I get the title (should be in another 2 weeks). I do have a list of planned mods (mostly stuff I had done to my previous cutlass's... HUD, ATC, cleaning it up, ETC).
  25. Picked up a 1994 Cutlass Supreme Convertible today. Black with black top and graphite interior. I think it is in pretty good shape and a nice summer car for my mid-life crisis. Enjoy.
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