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Found 571 results

  1. So I'm in the middle of making a UB3 adapter for a digi cluster. And I want to make sure Im doing this right. For example I'd take the C2 on the digi cluster end and connect it to the D4 on the connector that is in the car. I have a digi UB3 connector and the end of a 94 analog where it plugs into the cluster. I solder all the wires from the factory 94 female connector to the male end. Then I have to take the digi wires and connect them to the other side. Any objections to the way I'm doing it? I think it will be good enough. I already have wires spliced into my cluster wires for the DIS. EDIT: Reference. That is what I'm going by.
  2. I've collected a few pictures over the years. Wondering if anyone else has any pictures? 1.5gen Lumina with CS wheels My car with Honda Civic wheels GP with CS sawblades
  3. Well, since the TGP had KYBs and the sleeves I have wont fit the Gabriels I have had on the CS, I had some time to play with the coilovers. Sure enough, the sleeves fit the KYBs no problem.. The mount has been the other thing that has kinda plagued me, so I was working on a custom mount when I discovered the mounts on the KYBs will WORK!! And they are prolly the best route to go with no modifications needed. So, I have the coilovers assembled and ready for the car. I have pics on my camera and will update in a couple hours with the simple step by step, the exact parts I used and links to buy them, and the cost of everything. Needless to say, the price will smoke Helds price anyday And quality over Helds, no difference, but the mount is better because its not so solid like Helds. The mount NEEDS to take some force instead of the strut rod directly tranferring it to the body. Using the stock mount justs adds a bit more needed cusion without sacrificing handling. I know Held uses a strut rod bushing in the upper mount. They are HARD as hell. -Bob
  4. As we discussed in the last thread regarding how much wattage you can run on a factory system, we noticed that our factory 105 amp alternators are not capable of producing enough power to feed a JL Audio 1000.1 amplifier, with wiring and the alternator being the two key issues. To resolve the alternator issue, there are, fortunately, factory replacement options that we can embrace. Fortunately for us, GM used the same mounting points for multiple alternators . The common CS130 and CS130D used in many of our cars can be replaced with the GM CS144 (or CS-144). The CS144 amplifier comes in varieties that produce from 140 amps to 200 amps, with supposedly a 250 amp model also available. These can typically be found in larger cars and SUVs. The following link will outline the available models: If anyone is considering running over 500W of amplifier power, you will certainly need to consider upgrading your alternator. I will be doing more research in the next few days on which cars you can pull these alternators from at a junkyard for cheap. If anyone has any particular range of models off the top of your head, please list them.
  5. 1995 CS SL with 3100. Shop manual says basically "take it off", but there is some kind of aluminum shroud in the way of the lower bolt.
  6. Picked up a 1994 Cutlass Supreme Convertible today. Black with black top and graphite interior. I think it is in pretty good shape and a nice summer car for my mid-life crisis. Enjoy.
  7. I picked it up from the original owner, little old lady... its been garaged most of its life, runs great .. and not a spec of rust on the car (its been here in Tucson since day 1) If I can find a nice set of 18" wheels I may put them on.. I have a speed shop here in Tucson, its a mod I could live with and swap back if I needed to as well easily enough. But the car is so original and un molested I would hate to change anything too far and ruin it. If I start driving it more and can put a babyseat in it correctly, I may install a HID headlight conversion too, since its all plug n play. THe car does need struts, they are pretty worn out.
  8. Here goes nothing! Monies spent so far: Car: $500 Trailer Rental: $45 Gas: $100 Shopvac: $120 Megasquirt 2 $300 EGR Delete: $12.50 Header Flanges: $59 ========= $1065 Monies to spend: Powertrain 100K mile 3500: $400 lx5 TB: $?? --EGR Delete: $15-- Getrag 282/4: $??? ebay Turbo: $250 Innovate LC-1 WBo2: $150 >=38lb/hr injectors: $300 --Header flanges: $60-- Exhaust: $??? MSII: $300 ========== $1460 + $??? Suspension/Tires/Brakes Cooper Zeon ZPTs???: $450 KYB Part # 334228 x2 (GR2 Rear): $110 Other crap for gen2 rears (BXX stuff?): $??? gen2 rear brake stuff (junkyard?): $??? KYB Part # 366004 x2 (GR2 Front): $90 DORMAN Part # 905501 x2 (trailing arms): $24 MONROE Part # 901921 x2 (front strut mounts): $25 MOOG Part # ES2912RL x2 (outter tie rod ends): $50 ========== $750 + $??? Other go-fast goodies: 16gal fuel cell: $160 Jegs 555-159001 (fuel pump): $130 AN stuff to put it all together: $??? Optima yellow top 500CCA: $210 Aluminum drag seat: $200 ========== $700 Other wants: Paint: $????
  9. i was trying to find good curb weight info for different years of Oldsmobiles. Seems i'm finding conflicting information. Where have you gone that has good data? I read that the 1997 CS has better Side impact safety rating, so i was wondering if there was weight increase? Also wondering what weight differences are between CS Sedan and Intrique and Olds 88.... for personal reasons. Trying to find contributing factors on difference of gas mileage and how quick some of these have seemed in compariison, beside the FDR.
  10. I currently have a 94 Cutlass Supreme convert and my rear side windows go up and down beautifully. It's got a Its got 125K miles on it and I put 81,000 of those miles on it, so believe me those rear windows have been used! Prior to this car I had a 93 CS vert and the side windows would hang up, badly. My sister recently picked up another 93 CS vert, and her side windows hang up badly also. They get between half & 3/4 down and hang up (actually pitch forward). I can help them get all the way down , then I need to help them get back up, too. The roller connected to the window motor is forward mounted on the window, so I understand why its doing it. I'm just having trouble correcting it. Does anybody know if there was an improvement to the rear window mechanism in 94 or am I just lucky (this time), and my sister isn't. Thanks, Dan
  11. I have a really odd HVAC panel in my 95 CS. It is not the dual zone, but it is not vacuum, as it's all wires behind it. Air is stuck at defrost. Fan speed and hot/cold work fine. Thought maybe faulty switch, replaced with a JY one same deal. Checked all fuses. It sounds like the door is not wanting to open, can hear a faint electrical noise like it wants to. Any other ideas? I have a feeling its the mode door. I hope not, because I don't wanna tear out the dash to fix it.
  12. For those of us that don't have the option of installing a CS 144 without an engine swap this may be the next best thing. i just got of the phone with Brady, a tech with Powermaster Performance. He said they don't make a factory replacement, but offer two upgrades. The all new alternators are a direct replacement that use 1 internal and 1 external metal cooling fan (not a plastic fan like the factory CS 130). Option #1 p/n 7860 80amps @ 800rpm with factory pulleys, 105 amps Max - $149.97 at Summit Racing. Option #2 p/n 47460 95amps @ 800rpm w/ factory pulleys, 140 amps Max - $ 185.97 at Summit Racing. These may be cheaper elsewhere, I haven't checked yet, but wanted to post what I found. i will be replacing my alt. soon, hopefully before it fails, more than likely with option #2.
  13. I was browsing my local yard and came across a olds 98 Regency and since I hardly see them i figured id check it out and noticed a DIS which looks exactly like the one in a cutlass, so taking a gamble i buy it. Searching the forum I find out that it will work and bolt in just fine, but looking at a thread there are different software versions for different motors? Is there any way to update the software version so it will display the right information as far as diagnostics and all for a 93 DOHC motor? This is for my 93 cutlass convertible with the 3.4.
  14. I have plowed through a couple of hours of searches but have yet to find the most basic answer to my question: can I repair my door handle on my 94 CS convert by getting in the access panel on the inside of the door edge? Must I take the door upholstery off, and disassemble the door to effect a repair on the handle? I have removed the access panel behind the door handle and removed all screws, but I can't see how to get the whole thing apart. Is there a sticky on door handle repair? I don't see one.
  15. I noticed I have piston slap when the engine is cold. I initially thought the valves were just noisy, but then I remember that I had an Alero with a 3400 that just sounded like the top end was coming apart when it was cold. I did a little research, and found that it was piston slap. I'm not all that worried about it. I haven't lost a drop of oil in 3500 miles, and it goes away fairly quickly. But there was not really a clear cut answer in any of the other posts about what can be done to quiet it down and stave off any potential damage. I was thinking thicker oil, maybe 15w40 or maybe even 20w50. I don't see what 20w50 would hurt, seeing as how it has almost 170k. Plus I was just curious... Were the first generation 2.8's and 3.1's prone to piston slap? I never recall actively noticing it in my CS or Lumina. This is newest w-body I have ever owned, and didn't know the gen 2 3100's fell victim to it. Anyway... Thanks all, Aaron
  16. Hello, ive got a 1993 cs with the 3.4l in it. I put it in storage last august and didnt touch it until last month. It ran fine other than a purge valve before I put it away. Before I took it out I did a purge valve, upper and lower intake, valve covers, egr, tps, iac, tranny flush and filter, alternator, and other small stuff. Now that I have it out and driving it is seems very very sluggish. Wont accelerate like it used too, when I punch it its almost like its not down shifting. Also when coasting the idle fluctuates alot (500-1500rpm) it has the symptoms of a bad cat but I put a magnaflow one on it last summer. Its stumping me and any help would be very appreciated. Thank you!
  17. Reride


    I own two '94 LQ1 CS's both are w/ AC & automatics. One has a very skinny radiator and the other has a radiator that is almost three times as thick. Would there be a powertrain option that would require a larger radiator or is this just a cooling option?
  18. Hello all, I have searched for a while through the different SWC threads and I would like to know something a little more specific. I'm finally upgrading my factory stereo in my '94 CS convertible and bought a Kenwood Excelon KDC-X798 for the head unit. Does anyone else happen to have this unit or know that the PAC SWI-RC controller will work with this? Crutchfield said it will, another stereo installation shop said it will, but the PAC website has it as NON compatible with the KDC-X798 in its footnotes on the product page. I've tried e-mailing PAC, but I'm on day 4 with no response. Has anyone had experience with this Kenwood model and know for sure which way to go? I know it says it will work with Kenwoods with a wired input, but then I ran across the footnote. I don't wanna waste time ordering one and find out in the middle of the install it doesn't work. Thanks!
  19. The head gasket on my 1994 CS 3.4 DOHC blew, has been replaced, now needs timed. I got the cam hold down tool and a degree wheel. I have a chiltons and a good working knowledge of cars. Am I missing anything?
  20. I'm sure this has been asked before, but I'm not having any luck finding what I'm looking for... I found a '95 Regal with the 6-way passenger's seat track, and want to install it on the passenger's side of my car for the wife...the wiring is dead-nuts simple, but I need to pull the existing manual track off of my Cutlass seat, and install the Regal track without destroying the Cutlass seat. Looks to me like it's as simple as peeling back the leather skin, and unbolting the track from the Regal it really that simple, or are there other things I need to know before doing this?
  21. Hello fellow W-body dudes/dude-ettes. Its been a while since I logged on. I still have my red 95 CS Vert. Running like a champ, but I dont drive it much. I was looking at local auction site here in Michigan and I found something pretty cool. Check it out. Yep, that's right. Brand new crated 3.4s from the Detroit Public School system. lol Auction starts tomorrow. I may grab 2 -Al
  22. Over the years I notice more and more people looking for CS Vert seals and such and I believe I have found a company that could make them. They specialize in rubber products and make many different weather stripping designs for various cars through the years. Right now all the make for the CS is the coupe door seals but if someone was to contact them with dimensions or even a sample piece I`m sure they could re-create it. I saw their commercial on this new channel on DirectTV called MAVTV. Company is called "Steele Rubber Products" and here is a link.
  23. Just remembered a Cutlass someone had on here the same aqua metallic like mine and 19cutlass94 CS that had a custom valence made for it that attached at both ends to the lower fog light moldings on the front fascia of the car. I`ve been looking on and off the last few weeks when I could remember to but haven`t been able to find it. IIRC it got mixed reviews. Does anyone know who`s car it is or where I can find some pics of it?
  24. My nechanic can get an OEM for $245 and NAPA has an Echlin brand for $239. '94 CS Vert w/ steering wheel controls. Any of you have a source that is easier on my wallet? Just spent a grand on it week before last and I haven't even put my new top on yet!!! Any help would be GREATLY appreciated! Greg
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