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Found 205 results

  1. I have done a ton of measurements and an aluminum cradle from a late model impala or others will bolt into my 96 gp. I am thinking of modding one for my control arms ect. I am not the best welder but a friend of my could weld a turd to diamond if need be. He is amazing, Anybody ever tried this? I think im gonna. I want to save weight and keep all the good stuff plus it looks pretty sweet. Is there anything i am over looking? Any input would be nice. Also is there any after market control arms available or do i need to make my own? It is a topswapped l36 in the car if wondering.
  2. So I have been trying to trace a front end clunk ever since I've had my 99 Regal and have yet to be successful at all. I realize that this is a common problem with a lot of 2nd gens so I'm starting a poll to see what the most common cause of clunking was. It seems like it does it whenever the car is cornering and it hits a bump or something. It's more noticeable when the car has more than just one person in it. It is driving me insane!!! So far I have replaced: -outer tie rod ends -all 4 struts, springs, and mounts -all 4 motor mounts -both front control arms with new ball joints and bushings. Did this twice, first with Moog, then with ACDelco parts thinking this was the culprit. -front sway bar with 34mm bar and polyurethane bushings. I have also greased the Intermediate Steering Shaft(ISS) multiple times because it seemed to help the first time. I cheaped out on the tie rods last time so now the next thing I'm gonna do is replace all 4 tie rods with Moog problem solvers and hopefully they'll last the rest of the life of the car. I'm contemplating replacing the subframe with an aluminum subframe and new subframe bushings. I'm also considering replacing the steering rack while I'm at it and switching out the ISS for a junkyard shaft. Any ideas? If you had this problem on your car and fixed it, please vote what the cause was.
  3. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DonkLift-W-Body-Trailing-Arms-New-Extended-For-3-Lift-kits-/251405059311?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a88e8c4ef&vxp=mtr
  4. So as im sure a lot of you have seen on FB i have this clunk in the front of my car. The noise seems to originate on the passenger side. I happens one single time on every initial acceleration from a stop. It also happens intermittently over large bumps like gutters and speed bumps, and on rear rare occasions full lock turning.. This clunk is loud I've had a cd skip while playing once or twice Now this started right after a lot of suspension work. I replaced control arms, ball joints, swaybars, endlinks, and lowered the car. I did reuse the old struts and mounts as they were less than 30k miles and 2 years old, i also installed shorter dogbones to make sure the downpipe doesn't hit the swaybar (clunking happened before shorter dogbones so thats been ruled out). Ive had a inspection done on all the replacement part and they all seem to be installed and tightened correctly Motor mounts were replaced 2 years ago but were replaced with stock hydraulic mounts, and both cv axles are spewing grease, but both of those usually have different symptoms than what I'm experiencing. Let me know what you think Thanks Jake
  5. My 90 lumina wipers are hitting each other when the wipers are on. I took the wiper arms off and it seem that when the wipers are in park the passenger side wiper goes down way to fare. If any of you guys know what could give me a few pointers on how to solve this problem I would really appreciate it! Thanks.
  6. So looked but cant find a answer. Will a gen 2 cradle bolt in to a 95 vert? I wanna upgrade suspension and brakes and would be alot easier with the gen 2 cradle? Anyone swapped them? Whats needed? Assuming cradle, and everything attached, struts, control arms, etc? They are plentyful in the yards even the aluminum ones just wondering.
  7. Both strut bolts broke after soaking the threads on the inside of the trunk with PB Blaster for 2 days. Previous owner ignored broken strut, which chewed through the mount and even cut a notch into the 3/8" thick steel in the tower. This will not be corrected as the new mount holds the rod in place. I will have to paint the stripped paint on the wheel well. The trailing arms are getting replaced, severely rusty. Should I replace the lateral link bushings? Does it effect ride quality much? Tons of new parts on order, will update when done.
  8. Hey folks. Just how long should a standard CV axle last? Can a new transmission cause premature CV axle failure? Mechanically I think these things SHOULD last the life of the car given proper maintenance under regular use. Car has 184000km / 114000miles. I had to replace one that grenaded. I replaced my control arms with new ones from MEVOTECH and the tires went on my car due to the change geometry being off so much. I wonder if somehow the control arms are forcing the joints on the CV axle apart and thus inducing some kind of premature or accelerated wear. Anyone have such an issue?
  9. Is there anyway to get the most HP out of your 3800 Series II engine without using a Turbocharger,Supercharger,and NOS.My engine is Non-Supercharged,so here are some of the stuff I'm going to get... High Flow Catalyic Converter = 8hp(about) Other Guy's Exhaust Headers = 20hp(about) SLP Exhaust System = 10hp(about) SLP Aluminum Roller Arms = 10hp(about) I'm also getting some Comp Cams,MSD Ignition coil,etc.. Just wanted to know some other info,if I'm missing anything..
  10. So I have been working on my 2004 Imp aka the Sh1tb0x or moving forward: SkImpala Budget is about $200 a week for parts, I do all my labor with a jack and stands. So far I have Installed: -Solid front Swaybar 35mm doorman product -Vented front Rotors -KYB Strut plus front 4002 (wish i coulda had bilstein or even the adjustables, but 75 a peice was irresistible) I want to Install -17 or 18" wheels, steel with centercaps or aluminum WRC rally style wheels -Larger Rotors 12"+ -Dual piston or 4 Piston Caliper (possibly F body Conversion, or looking at Bonneville fronts) -Steel braided brake hoses -Steel Brake Lines (would love to find someone that bends and flares seamless stainless tubing with fittings to factory contour instead of bending some up myself.) -Strut Tower Connector front and rear -Solid Trailing Arms in rear -Solid Rear Swaybar and Links -Rear coil over struts (going with the KYB 4003 4004) I am Also Interested In -Possibly going with a larger Brake booster/master cylinder to move a larger amount of DOT3/4 Looking for some expert advice setting up a plan for the braking and suspension, I REALLY want to be able to slam the brakes and stop ASAFP PDQ Additionally, No ABS on this Imp for some reason.
  11. I've Got a base 92 Lumina 3.1, I need to replace the Front subframe due to damage of the sway bar mounts ripping out of place. Quistion is, can i get away with just unbolting trans/motor mounts, and the A-arms from subframe (with proper engine support from top) ? Or will the A arms not have enough clearance to drop the frame? If thats the case I'm thinking I could take the top 3? bolts off that hold the strut/spring from each strut towwer?
  12. Misfire on cylinder 6; I pull engine apart, I find the intake rocker on cylinder 6 moves freely, because of the following. Not sure what happened here. [TABLE=width: 500] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Decided to change the LIM gasket since I was in it, so I need to remove the push-rods, which requires loosening the rest of the rocker-arms. These seemed exceedingly tight to the point I was afraid that something might break...they seemed way tighter than the suggested 124 lb-in (below). I get replacement rocker-arm, I dig up torque specs. - 2003 Buick Century - valve rocker arm bolt - Consulting technical service bulletin "TSB 02-06-01-034" (just google'd it): Rocker arms:[TABLE=width: 250] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [TABLE=width: 25] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD]Torque wrench used; you can see it's lb-in/Nm [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD]The exact setting I used. [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] In this engine, the exhaust push-rods are 6" and the intake push-rods are 5.x" (they're shorter). For cylinder #1, the push-rod closest to the drive belt is an exhaust (6") push-rod. I made sure they were in their correct positions, and finger tightened them. I then turn the engine over until cylinder 1 is TDC on compression stroke, so valves are fully closed. They're not adjustable, so I torque them both to the suggested 124 lb-in (or 14 Nm) using a brand-new, never-been-used torque wrench (came with calibration certification & all) until it "clicked". Tightening the first (exhaust) rocker seemed fine, I moved to the second (intake) and it started spinning...the bolt stripped the threads: For the final kick-in-the-nuts, I rotate the engine and pop goes the exhaust rocker, right out of the cylinder head, taking the aluminum threads with it. So now I'm needing to do a thread repair job on the first two rocker-bolt holes, out of two attempts at torqueing them to the correct (as far as I can tell) specs. I'm deathly afraid of doing this again. What the hell am I doing wrong here?!
  13. Any short cuts to removing these wiper arms? The car is a 1997 Grand Prix. The shafts just turn in the arms and I cannot get these damn things off. I have failed using my hands, pliers, screwdrivers, a hammer, and a battery terminal puller. Thank you.
  14. Replacing the fuel module assembly with new Delphi HP10009. Verified that this is the correct part for this vehicle on the Delphi site. [TABLE=class: tborder, align: center] [TR] [TD=class: alt1]New and old module. Note the longer strainer on the new pump. When installed the strainer/pump pickup sits down in this compartment of the tank. When the old pump is in there the end of the strainer (long tail of strainer) comes right up against the wall but it lays flat and is not kinked. When the new pump is in there the end of the strainer (long tail of strainer) of course does not fit and ends up being kinked up. The instructions show the strainer laying flat along the bottom of the tank and to make sure the strainer does not interfere with the float arms range of motion. Instructions make no mention of being able to turn the strainer if it needs re-orientation. I tried to see if the strainer would turn on the bottom of the pump so it could maybe be oriented in a different position but it seems stuck on there pretty good. I didn't want to put too much force on it before checking to see if they are supposed to be moveable. Or maybe as a practical matter the strainer length is not an issue? Thanks[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: alt2][/TD] [TD=class: alt1, align: right][/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]
  15. The smell started a couple days ago in the vents. I knew what it meant, but wasn't sure what I was in for. After checking the manual, getting at the heater core seems to be pretty straightforward. I pulled a heater core from a 2000 Lumina in the yard today and it wasn't too bad with a 3100, I just climbed on top of the engine and got the clamps off pretty easily. I came home and went to work on my car, and pulled all the lower covers and got to the heater core in about half an hour. But... the other side? Getting at those hoses with an LQ1 in the way, it looks like I'm going to have to pull the whole engine out! The manual talks about removing the lower secondary cowl, which I did but it does nothing to get access below the wiper arms. Anyone been through this before with some suggestions?
  16. I have a 95 regal with about 90 thousand miles on it and everytime I go over a bump at low to moderate speed I hear a thunk sound. it sounds like struts and mount time but would like to know for sure.the car has recent ball joint replacement and the bushings in the lower arms look ok.the car does not bounce excessively over bumps but the noise is a little annoying.if struts and mounts are needed which brand is recommended?the car is 90%driven on nyc streets and would like to keep my back from breaking over the many pot holes in the area. also would the condition of the motor ,trans or subframe mounts be possible sources of the noise? THANKS!
  17. Northern Il folks - I was at the meet on Saturday. Thought I'd say hi, and also - what the heck, might as well ask. Just got back from a funeral, and I'm taking advantage of a mild day to try to do both lower control arms and my rear subframe bushings on my '03 GTP. (I have the white one that was at the meet.) If anyone is off today and interested in giving me a hand, I live in Winfield. Look up 60190. I'd happy to get you a case of whatever beer you like, feed you dinner, whatever. Parts are here in my garage ready to go. text me at Six threee OH 890 9 TWO 9 two Cheers
  18. Im not too sure if these parts fit but according to their website they are for 96-06 w-bodies? Isn't the suspension on the 95 the same as a 96 GP? Or are these parts only for 97 & up GP's and their website is wrong? If they fit, are these parts a nice upgrade to my 95 GTP? TCA011-Trailing arm rear TCA012-Trailing arms, adjustable rear, Foward mount TCA013-Lateral arms adjustable rear, rearward mount
  19. My brother gave me a hand doing them, he has long skinny arms so he helped alot Some of these were gapped at .75, up to .90!! Crazy! Some have some corrosion of some sort and some smelled like paint?
  20. Greetings all, new to the forum here. I will apologize in advance for not doing a search, but am typing this at work and can only spare a few min. My rear crossmember turned into 3 pieces from rust and now the car is parked til fixed. Got a used one with both trailing arms and all 4 control arms for 200 from the junkyard. Can someone please give me a quick step by step on instructions to replace? Maybe pictures? Heck I would even be thrilled with a link to another thread with step-by-steps or even a simple "good luck." I am thinking it should be kinda straight forward, if not a pain in the butt because the bolts won't wanna break easy. Dealt with those things before so am not too concerned. I have done some things like this before. I do my own front brakes, replaced the front struts myself (went very easy once bolts where broken) and worked on the shackles on my wifes SUV. I will be poking around more on the forum tonight after work. Cause with my luck there is a sticky out there with all of the info. Thanks in advance!
  21. Is there a manual on this diverse subject LOL? We all know waterpumps can rattle, but short of taking the serpentine belt off and checking for play in the pulley, I don't think I have that problem. Is the idea to put the car on ramps and get your arms in there and try to wiggle things? What are likely possibilities? For one there's sometimes a whine (when it's colder) when I first start it up. And something rattles more when it's in gear, much more quiet when it's in park (but running). I may be hearing 3-4 things at different times. Oi. Is there a rattle diagnostic connector on these cars? There really really should be! Can I assume that rattles are generally external to a reasonably well functioning engine (or tranny! Yikes!)? I have 182,000 miles. I'd cry if I was told that something in my engine was rattling. Like a big baby in fact.
  22. Hello everyone, the names Jen Owner of a 2004 Monte Carlo SS Dale Earnhardt Jr. edition #7 out of 2883 housing the Supercharged v6 BUICK 3800 Current mileage: 56,000mi Searching google for some new forums & came across wbody. Currently a member of montecarloforum.com & nymontecarloforum.com under the same username Currently no mods except for MSD ignition coils & k&n panel filter, working on getting her to a safe condition. Working on suspension at the moment. Tomorrow is the day my new mevotec control arms & tie rod ends go in. Future mods will be lowering springs, cold air intake, u-bend delete, magnaflow catback exhaust, resonator delete. will be getting the hood & front bumper repainted. Love auto detailing. Slowly creating my own mobile detailer service! Pics of monte: custom high mount stop light cover: before & after pics of engine bay detailing: ok...I think I'm done....
  23. After reading 'The Official Poly Control Arm Bushing Writeup' by xtremerevolution in the how-to/fac section, I was pumped to perform the swap. Ordered the kit from Energy Suspension, got it, and yanked my control arms. That's when everything went to hell. After pulling the arms, I realized that they looked like crap, and that I had to freshen them up with a nice coat of Por-15. This meant getting them sandblasted, or grinding for hours. I decided to go the sandblasting route. I called around, got some prices, and more importantly, found a shop that could clean the arms the same day. The next step was finding a machine shop that could press out and then in the new sleeves, this was the hard part. I found a reputable shop that was busy for the next several weeks, the shop recommended another shop that was likewise busy for weeks to come. The second shop recommended a third machinist, who told me he could get to the arms the next day. The third-choice machinist didn't get to the arms until four days after I dropped them off. When I showed up at his shop on the fourth day with the intention of taking back the arms and doing it all myself, he quickly assured me that his day was light, and he could do my arms right then, as well as sandblast them. I hung out for about 4 hours while the arms were blasted, and after some trial and error, the old bushings pressed out. I took the arms to my aunt's house, busted out the grinder and smoothed out the bumps and sharp edges a bit, cleaned them with Dawn dishwashing soap, toweled them off and threw them in the oven at 200 to dry, put them back in the tub and degreased them with some concentrated crap I got from Home Depot, rinsed them again, toweled them and baked them for about 10 minutes. Then kept them wet for 30 minutes with Metal Ready (by the Por-15 guys), rinsed them and baked them. Took them to the garage and got a little carried away with the first coat of Por-15 (the first coat is supposed to be light, because otherwise it WILL run) let them cure for 2 hours, flipped them and coated the other side. The instructions on the can says to let each coat dry for 2 hours before doing anything else, and this proved to be accurate. Since humidity causes the coat to cure faster, and it rained all summer here in AK, I cracked the garage door to let some moisture in, just to be sure. Got my recommended 2 coats on the top and bottom of the arms, couldn't find a curved brush to get the insides, but being a genius, found a sponge-brush, soaked it good in the Por-15, and mashed it around the insides. The brush handle was short enough that I could fit the whole thing into the control arm, and the damn sponge soaked up so much of the paint that I didn't have to re-wet it. After 2 coats on the innards, I had to go back to the Kenai Peninsula for school, so I had my sister drop off the arms at the machinist, who was impressed by my Por-15 job (as is proper). Called the guy the other day, and found out that he had already pressed in one of the new sleeves, but ruined the larger sleeves when he attempted to lathe it down to the proportions of the original (The larger diameter sleeves are indeed a tad too large for the arms, as pointed out in the abovementioned post). He was thinking about building new sleeves, but blasted the originals and reinstalled them instead. Whatever works. I had the third-choice machinist hold off on putting the bushings in, because I want to do some of it myself. I'll take my calipers when I go to get the arms on Tuesday, and measure the outer lip on the bushing so the inner sleeve can be cut to size accurately (my calipers are nicer than the machinist's. Scary). Then I'll press in the bushings using the bolt-method, cut them to size, and insert the inner sleeve. The rest should be easy, but I wonder if anyone has any recommendations on how best to cut the bushings? I'm worried about either melting the polyurethane by having a blade moving too fast, as well as tearing off chunks. What is the right tool for this particular job? I'll throw up some more pics when I do the bushings. I'm toying with the idea of applying Por-15 around the outside edges, and on the insides of the reinstalled sleeves, but see that it isn't usually done. Does anyone know if coating the insides of the sleeve will adversely affect the function of the bushing? p.s. Is it just me, or do I totally look like Bane in the respirator?
  24. So for a while I have been having noises coming from the passenger front. Everything looks OK on the bottom - ball joints, tie rods, control arms, sway bar mounts... Well the other day was once again trying to find this problem and I am convinced it is a bad strut. sometimes when I shake the car side to side I hear noises from the passenger strut, up inside the strut tower. When I bounce the front end, it doesn't bounce much, maybe a time or two before regaining it's normal position. Also, with the strut cover plate under the hood removed, it doesn't look like the strut is moving when i rock the car. I am thinking it might be time to remove the entire thing to find what is bad. I don't want to replace the entire thing if just part of it is bad. I am guessing maybe upper strut mounts. How would I know those are bad once I have the strut out of the car? When I go to put this back together though, is there anything that would mess up the alignment? I know some struts have a cammed bolt to adjust camber. Mine doesn't seem to have such bolts. Also despite the noises and it getting worse, the steering is just as shitty, er, good as it has always been pre-noise. I mean steering at a stand-still does not make any suspension noise. Also what is the story about the strut cartridges?
  25. I don't know if this is already known but I searched the forum and didn't see any threads on it. I found some stock replacement tubular trailing arms for $15.95 on summit racing!!! http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-905-501/ Seems to be correct part and maybe a better replacement than the stock pieces???? I think I'll be getting these when I replace the driver knuckle that is trashed on my car Anyway, I hope this is a good find if everyone didn't already know about them!!!! -Deia
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