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Found 1,856 results

  1. Hello W body family. 92 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, 3.1L. 161,123 miles The column shift only sometimes activates my backup lights. I found that tapping, wiggling or holding the shift lever slightly passed its seat will activate them. Issue within the last few weeks. Switch in column? or on trans? Thanks. Joe.
  2. Hello W body family. 92 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, 3.1L. 161,123 miles >The column shift only sometimes activates my backup lights. I found that tapping, wiggling or holding the column shift lever activates them... Do you know what I need to do to fix this? Switch in column? or on trans? Thanks. Joe.
  3. I have a 2001 Monte carlo ss with a top swap and the transmission needs replaced, it is stock, and I have a good transmission from a 99 oldsmobile silhouette with maybe 60k miles on it that I could put in there for basically free but I was wondering if it would work. Mine of course has the stock gearing and I found this chart that shows the silhouette has 3.29 gearing. Also it says that my transmission has ims and the olds doesn't. I dont even know what ims means?
  4. I have my tires rotated about every 6,000 miles. Since I began driving, I've always had them rotated front to back on the same side of the vehicle. The dealership is happy to do it this way with the original tires. However, with other care I've had, Costco has varied by its stores. Most of them have done front to back either as their policy or because that's what I asked for. One time, the tire store manager practically got into an argument with me. I took it to another store, told them the story, the rotated them front to back, and even hinted that the guy at the other store can be sort of heavy handed. I will soon be looking at replacing the original tires. The Costco closest to where I live talked about diagonal rotation. They also said every 7,500 whereas another Costco said every 5,000. Either way, it's free. So, is it fine to do a diagonal rotation with the new Michelin Defender tire or should I continue asking for front to back? Is there any data, such as tire info or some link, that would support which way they should be rotated?
  5. Hello. New to the forums here.... i have a 2000 Pontiac boneville ssei with about 160k miles on it. Last week water pump went out. Changed that and also changed the famous plastic elbows that go to the intake. After I changed it something happened and I never had heat inside the car. Drove it for about 15 minutes before I Relized that. Went home and shut car off. It never read that it overheated on the gauges..... Once I shut car off I could hear it boiling in the radiator. Long story short the next day when I checked oil it had coolant in it and I could tell something was wrong because when I went to go drive it and see if I had heat, the car was missing... Which was clearly my plugs fouled out. So today I started tearing into the motor. I'm a first timer on this and just took it slow and took pictures. I have a few questions. Once I got to the lower intake it looked like it was slightly cracked , the gasket that is, and I wasn't sure if that was culprit or not. Also where the coolant passes into the head was full of a red sludge and the thermostat was a sligt color of red. Not sure what this build up is inside there. Anyways I already got this far I figured I better keep going and to be on safe side check the head gaskets. I tore the front head off and the valve cover on the edges inside I could see white where coolant n oil were mixed but the rockers and everything were just normal black oil looking.... Once I got the head off the two right side cylanders were full of coolant on the top. The first once was just clean an nothing in it. I just wanna make sure that nothing else could be bad. I am going to change head gaskets and all other gaskets hen I put it back together. Any and all ideas are greatly appreciated. Also before I tore it apart the car was smoking pretty bad and I could clearly smell antifreeze coming out of exhaust. I will try to post some pictures I took along the way. Thanks everyone
  6. Hello everyone. I have an 04 Grand Prix GTP Comp G. Got it 2 years ago. 149000 miles now and starting to play with the engine a bit. Got a cold air intake with a bypass mid line and looking forward to hearing from you all. Thanks
  7. OK, need help. I need to lay this out and get feedback as proof both of these garages are idiots, so here it goes, the complete story. 94 3.4. May 2013, broke serpentine belt, towed to garage. Replaced water pump, thermostat, belt, pulleys. Was told I had head gasket problems. Was leaking coolant somewhere when I picked up my car. Drove car to another garage, asked for pressure test to confirm. I was told there was a broken inlet valve on the bottom of the radiator, no way a pressure test could have been done on it to get to I had a bad head gasket. Took back to first garage, demanded they put radiator in my car, they did, no further leaks, no overeating problems, nothing. Drove all summer 2013 in 100+ heat with a/c going most days, top up or down. No problems of any kind. Parked it end of October for the winter. February, needed to use it to go pick up a dining room table with my trailer (it's got a factory installed trailer hitch), warmed it up, turned on the heat, blew nothing but cold air, froze my butt off for the 8 mile round trip. Parked it again for the rest of the winter. Saved up the money to get the "supposedly" blown head gaskets and decided to go ahead and have timing belt replaced at same time since it had been about 50K miles since being replaced, took it back to the garage that did the initial work with the water pump, radiator, etc., on August 31st. After 4 weeks and a lot of delays, got my car back on September 29. All seemed well. Drove for exactly 2 weeks. Went out one Monday morning to start it to go visit my brother in the hospital, it died. Tried again, it died. Got out to raise hood, oil all over my garage floor. Called garage to come get it, told them it looked like they might not have put my oil filter on tight or something, they towed it back to their garage. Called me the next day and said the oil sending unit was leaking, and oh by the way, you have a water leak. apparently they had let me leave the garage the first time, with a bad hose and didn't bother to replace it or even tell me about. After another 2 weeks, they were going to bring my car to my home since I had no way to come get it. So, manager was driving it to me, got about a mile from the store, overheated. towed it back to their garage. After another 7-10 of trying to figure out what was wrong, asked me if they could have it towed to another garage to get "correctly" diagnosed. A couple of days later, I get a phone call stating that the 2nd garage determined my heads had cracks in them and apparently the machine shop either missed it or something, so they were going to buy new heads for my car at their expense and fix it. Another week goes by. Winter is here, I have no ride, so they rent me a car to drive saying my car would be ready in a few days. Another week goes by. The 2nd shop is now telling them, they apparently repaired my heads, after I was told I was getting new ones, and now the block has pin holes in it, it's had them for over 2 years, and it's all "my fault" and the first garage isn't responsible for fixing my car as now my "piece of junk" car (their words) needs a whole new engine at a cost of over $6000. Next thing I know, my car is sitting in their parking lot torn down, they won't put it back together as "they won't be held responsible for it" and my rental car is yanked from me. So I am back on foot, no car, and their claims department is trying to say that for 2 years, my car has had pin holes in the block, can't be repaired, and they aren't going to do anything about it. Called today to find out when someone is going to put my car back together, waiting to hear that now. So, I need some professional opinions. Here is what I think. First garage that told me I needed head gaskets, replaced gaskets, let my car leave with a bad water hose, sent car to garage they have a "relationship" with (they send business back and forth), who are telling them I have been knowing driving my car for 2 years with a bad block, which is a lie. They repaired my heads apparently, put my car back together, guess what, still got hot I guess, so now instead of them standing behind that they told the first garage, the heads had cracks, now it's the engine block has pin holes and they aren't touching it again. Thoughts? And I guess I am going to have to sue them to get something done.
  8. Hello folks and thanks for this site. I don't think I've owned a w- body. I've owned several LeSabre a Bonneville and Parkavenue . The reason I'm here is I've been adopted by my neighbors kids as their grandfather and the oldest owns a 1997 Lumina he inherited from his grandmother. It began knocking and loosing power a few weeks ago. Well what's a grandfather to do, I thought this would be a great project. We could have some fun and he could learn how an engine works. We did but we have a problem the camshaft broke and there is to much damage to be able to repair this engine. So I'm needing to know what engines will replace the 3.1 and how difficult would it be to bolt in a 3.8. We haven't been able to find a low mileage 3.1 but I've found a 3.8 with 50000 miles on it out of a Lesabre. I've been told the 3.4 will bold right in without changing the wiring harness. Any information will be appreciated.
  9. Bought an l67 with 80,000 miles out of a 04 park avenue ultra. It sat for a year before i bought it. Supposedly it ran very well, but I see rust on valves 1,3 and 5. When i pulled the exhaust manifold. 2,4 and 6 look great. What should I do? Thanks for any insight.
  10. I have been driving forever trying to get my Catalyst Monitor to come back on, my codes and everything were erased and I have been doing the recommended GM drive cycle and someone told me to hop on the freeway and go 55mph for 30 miles. My CEL codes came back but the o2 and CAT monitors have not. I have driven 1500m since the reset. Any other recommendations, could something be preventing it from finishing its onboard tests?
  11. I currently have a 94 Cutlass Supreme convert and my rear side windows go up and down beautifully. It's got a Its got 125K miles on it and I put 81,000 of those miles on it, so believe me those rear windows have been used! Prior to this car I had a 93 CS vert and the side windows would hang up, badly. My sister recently picked up another 93 CS vert, and her side windows hang up badly also. They get between half & 3/4 down and hang up (actually pitch forward). I can help them get all the way down , then I need to help them get back up, too. The roller connected to the window motor is forward mounted on the window, so I understand why its doing it. I'm just having trouble correcting it. Does anybody know if there was an improvement to the rear window mechanism in 94 or am I just lucky (this time), and my sister isn't. Thanks, Dan
  12. I bought my first Grand Prix in 2007, which, was a 1999 GTP. I parted it out when it started burning oil at 200,000 miles. I now have a 2001 GTP with 135,000 miles that I have installed a full size intercooler on and am running a 3.2 pulley. I live in a small town called Kemmerer, which is located in SW Wyoming about an hour from Utah and about 2 hours from Salt Lake City. here is a recent picture of my engine bay.
  13. Gibby

    TGP fueling issue

    Alright guys, slowly but surely making this a nice daily driver, I have one issue that just wont stay down though... Bought the car with 112000, replaced fuel filter right away. Fast forward to 120000 miles, car would sputter and die at idle, if I kept a little throttle it would stay running, ran great at cruze and WOT. So on a whim I replaced the fuel regulator, also found it had miss-matched injectors at that time so I replaced those with yellow tops. Car ran great after that, fast forward to 124000 miles, car starts sputtering and dying at idle again, still good at cruze and WOT. Friend and I put a fuel pressure gauge on it, read just under 30 psi with key on, book says 41-47. So we replaced fuel regulator again. Problem is once again fixed. Ok cool maybe just got bad regulator first time. Fast forward to 126000 miles, problem is back, have not checked fuel pressure again, but it has same exact symptoms still drives fine but sputters and dies at idle. Starting to think fuel pump is on its last leg and maybe it isnt the regulator at all.. Any ideas?? Thanks, Luke
  14. I have a 1993 Cutlass Supreme convertible with the 3.4 DOHC engine. I change oil religiously every 3,000 miles. Upon a cold start, the oil pressure needle is about a 1/4 inch above the second hash mark. When I say second hash mark. If you could pretend that the oil gauge was the fuel gauge it would show a quarter inch more than a quarter tank left upon startup and stays on the quarter mark when idling hot. I know its acceptable for these engines to have 15psi when idling hot. Well, my question is, the gauge is not numbered so you really don't know the true oil pressure unless you put a mechanical gauge on it. Does anyone have an idea of how much oil pressure is when its at the quarter mark?
  15. I've checked with local yards, but they don't have cars like mine, except if I were to drive over 50 miles from here. If anyone lives near a junkyard, I would appreciate the following. 1. All the bolts that hold the cross brackets from the fenders to the radiator core support. 2. All the fasteners that hold the washer tank in. 3. The two nuts that hold the non-power antenna in. I will pay $5 labor plus whatever the hardware costs plus $6 to ship them in a flat rate box. I've checked the hardware stores here too and they don't have anything close.
  16. Hello all: My father bought a new Lumina LS in 1995. Has babied that car. It is the 3.4 DOHC. All that power and I don't think the car has ever been driven above 80! He gave it to my son this year. 101K miles, interior like new. Everything major had been changed or replaced on the car except the water pump. Which froze up a couple of weeks ago. I changed that no problem and then discovered a coolant leak in the intake gasket. Now I am fixing to start on that. I would assume that other DOHC owners have replaced the intake gasket. From the manual it looks straight forward enough. I am wondering are there any hidden gotchas or special tools I would need for the repair? BTW I own a 1994 "F body" firebird. 3.4 push rod. Rock solid at 230K miles. Does not leak a drop of anything! Too bad the same can't be said of the lumina.. Hope to hear from some of yall. Brian
  17. ok so, im not finding what i need, but i know this has prolly been an on-going topic on here. but ive been away from here for a while so i feel like a newb again. heres the situation, maybe someone can direct me to a thread or help me in general. i went to start my car earlier (2002 chevy impala with 127k miles on it) it stalled out for what ever reason, im not sure myself. it didnt feel like it fully started however, like it was barely running and i threw it in reverse being hasty and it died. well. then the ol ignition felt the need to stick in the acc spot so my power was stuck on and couldnt start the car. well after fighting with it i found it didnt fully go into park (sigh) but i got it all figured out and working, but now the car just wont start. the key fights me more than ever but its not even kicking the starter on (at least im not hearing anything coming from it when i had my girlfriend turn the key for me while i listened to what was going on) i know we have a recall on them, and i can get it swapped for a new one. but i kind of need to get it to where i can drive it there due to funds and how far away the dealership that can do the recall repair is. any advice anyone can give me? from the sounds of the things ive had going on with electronics, it sounds like it could possibly be the BCM. any thoughts on that as well? thanks in advance guys. any help is appreciated.
  18. For the past 4 weeks have been having problems with key fob not locking of unlocking doors or trunck. This problem comes and goes. It wasn't until the problem first started that I realized that I didn't have a key to the doors or trunk (that will be taken care of today). Before you ask, I have put new batteries in both remotes. I've done searches here and can not find where to look for the internal part (receiver) for the remote locks on a vert. Any ideas on what to look for and where? Also, just a side note. I had the engine replaced on this car about 3000 miles ago (new crate engine). Since that time the low coolant light comes and goes, it is not low on coolant nor does the engine run hot or warm, It's just that in the past 4 weeks (maybe tied to the lock problem) it's on more than it's off. Suggestions. Many Thanks Kaye Just FYI. I had a new top and cylinders installed back in April. Love this car
  19. Light came on yesterday. I replaced the rear hubs maybe three or four hundred miles ago. I know I need to check the plugs wiring etc.. Anyway I was wondering what scan tool can read the abs? I have a code reader but it does not read the abs on this year car. I read that 96 - 98 have different type system. My code reader works fine for the check engine light etc.. but not for the ABS. Any other advice to find the problem would be appreciated.
  20. Hello everyone! The other day, i went and looked at a 2000 GTP with 130k miles on it. Underbody on the car was clean(except for one spot on the rocker) and it ran great. However, i'm skeptical about purchasing it due to a coolant leak and i'm not 100% sure of where it could be coming from. I noticed the coolant on the oil pan, it looked like it was dripping out from the back of the engine. Here are the things i took note of while inspecting the car, and i was hoping some of you can help pinpoint the issue. 1: There was an oil burning smell coming from the engine bay and when i pulled the dipstick there was white smoke coming out. I assume this is the PCV valve and that is thankfully an easy fix. I know there's a recall for a gasket as well. 2: There was no coolant in the oil, so i -think- i can rule out the head gaskets. 3: The low coolant light was on before i even started the test drive, and i had them put some in. I took about a 12-15 mile test drive and the coolant level didn't seem to drop by a noticeable amount, so it's a slow leak. So i'm thinking it could be one of the following things 1: Water Pump 2: Coolant bottle has a small hole. hose, etc 3: Lower intake gasket 4: Head gasket(hopefully not) 5: A wild guess here, but one of those plastic elbows went bad. The upper went bad on my 02 Bonneville, and i know that's common for them. Any suggestions?
  21. This morning I took my Regal out. It's a 96 coupe with approx. 67K on it. A couple of miles from the house it started loosing power and stumbling. So I did a U turn and headed home. On the way home I noticed that it would act like it wanted to shift hesitate and not shift, then do it again, and again ,and again. It would finally shifted at approx. 5k. And took forever for it to get there. When I got home I pulled the plug wires off of the coilpacks and noticed the bottom tower on the second and third coil was really corroded badly. I cleaned them up the best I can and took it for another drive. It ran good for the first 1/4-1/2 mile. Then it started the same thing. I'm going to replace the coilpacks and wires. Is this the shifting problem also? Or is the shifting problem the big problem and I found the bad coils in the process? And they are two separate problems? Thanks
  22. The rumor is true. This is the mono-leaf off my '94 Cutlass vert after 70k miles with the Moog plastic nylon spring pad isolators. When possible use the original style rubber pad isolators. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. 1G5WP14V6LF273440 red/tan all 3 options 120863 miles 3/19/90 date
  24. Hi all, I own a chevy lumina for 4 yrs. My oldest daugheter drove it 2 years and now her sis will drive it 2 more; Work done to it: New spark plugs/wires,transmission fluid/filter,new IAC,LIM gasket,dummy plug o ring,fuel injector o rings,2 new headlights,new taillight,new alternator, big group 78 battery,new belts/hoses,and 4 new yokohama tires. Bought from inlaws w/ 96000 now has 105000. I also have a 2012 toyota highlander and a 2007 toyotoa yaris. I also have a "fun" vehicle a 1999 dodge dakota club cab R/T w/ 55000 org miles. Lot of work done to the dakota too! The toyotas have been fine. Minimal work done to them.
  25. I have a 1990 buick regal coupe, 45000 original miles, 3800 engine. at highway speeds it will suddenly jerk 2-4 times and then be fine. any suggestions??
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