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Found 1,856 results

  1. Just call me Tim please. Had my Grand prix since 12,000 miles; 1992 LE; 3.1 L 3 speed. I found this community while researching a few things to bring my baby back to life. Had to let the poor thing sit a few, and now am trying to breath life back into him/her. My summer project. Tim
  2. They'll tell me extra weight doesn't put extra strain on a car. But I feel it, even an extra 75 lbs. Therefore ... Car needs rear struts, at least, been dragging my feet. I'm apprehensive about taking a long trip (1300 miles) with 4-500 extra lbs. In the trunk mainly. Dead weight, cast iron.
  3. I have a 95 regal with about 90 thousand miles on it and everytime I go over a bump at low to moderate speed I hear a thunk sound. it sounds like struts and mount time but would like to know for sure.the car has recent ball joint replacement and the bushings in the lower arms look ok.the car does not bounce excessively over bumps but the noise is a little annoying.if struts and mounts are needed which brand is recommended?the car is 90%driven on nyc streets and would like to keep my back from breaking over the many pot holes in the area. also would the condition of the motor ,trans or subframe mounts be possible sources of the noise? THANKS!
  4. Hello all w-body forum members. Newbie here to this forum but, not to w-bodies, , mechanics, or forums. I am an avid user on IF forums and hope to expand my knowledge base with the help of you guys. I have a 2001 impala LS 3.8 w/ 130k miles. It is my pride and joy. I have dumped some money into fixing/replacing bad parts on it already. I still have many more parts to be replaced. It's never ending but, it's my baby and I like to take care of every little thing. I just purchased a w-body store 2.5" SS catless downpipe. There is no emissions testing in MI and I don't want to deal with cat's anymore therefor I chose catless. Yes, I also purchased an 02 emulator. My question: Are the exhaust bolts studs or just bolts? Meaning are they connected to the exhaust or standalone and you can just replace them? I believe they are studs but, I am not 100% on that. I am worried that I will break a stud off and be screwed. What problems could arise and how could I solve them? If they are studs and one breaks off: Could I just saw the rest of it off flush, drill a hole through the head, and use a smaller/longer bolt? I do plan on using a bunch of PB blaster and possibly heating the bolts up but, all I have at my disposal is a propane torch. You think that will be enough? I did NOT buy new gaskets like I should have but, I will antiseize the bolts so, I can replace them shortly after. I know a decent amount about these cars but, some things I just don't have experience with on them. I also have a stack of parts sitting in my room for a total top end rebuild which, is being done soon (LIM, UIM gasket, plugs, FPR, IAC, the full works) Thanks for your time and help w-body members and enthusiasts
  5. I only have about 350 to spend and the lower the miles the better so pm me! Thanks
  6. New to this site but not to cars. I have a 88 olds cutlass supreme Int. with the 5 speed option and I would like to know how many were actually made. Olds Customer Service has not been much help!. I saved this car from being crushed, seeing the 5 speed I started to wonder how rare it really was and if it was worth keeping. It has high miles on it but is solid with no rust. Still runs good. Any info would be appreciated. Now For sale http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=65181.0
  7. hello all..from 45 miles south east of pittsburgh,for purposes here i have a 91 grey lumina euro 3.1 2 door.have a great week ahead and hope to interact here.my name is michael-mike or anything said with a smile. by the way -i posted in a thread -- http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/52453-1990-3-1-Lumina-no-start-hesitate-throttle-problems if knowledgeable members haven't been in it for awhile ,i would appreciate it you would go see and maybe we can figure something out.
  8. I was looking for parts and came upon this group. Looks like a good group. Purchased a 1995 cutlass convertible last month. Then had my mechanic go over it. Came out not to bad so next it is the body and paint Shop. It is red with a black top. Dark Grey leather. It has a sweet running 3.4 with 163,000 km on it. (96,000 miles) I am not very handy at this but am looking forward to the restoration. looking forward to cruising around this summer.
  9. poofdirt

    Vacation time

    '96 Olds CS is up for a long road trip. 1400 miles each way and whatever else in between. Sucks that a full sized spare won't fit the donut hole.
  10. Last car was a troublesome money pit 1993 buick regal custom, traded that POS into the dealer I bought my monte from that is about 20 miles away. Suprisingly I seen it pass by me today when I was driving to walmart. Not hard to miss the only regal in the world with a 93 bonneville wing on the back... When I had it I swapped alot from my dead bonneville (190k miles oil pump blew and spun a bearing) and decided to take the wing since the buick looked so 'boring' without anything on the back.. Seeing it today makes me want to get another older wbody! I may love the sleek smooth look of a newer wbody but there is something about the older ones that look so good...
  11. Last night while driving home from work in a thunderstorm and shortly after driving slowly through a huge flooded intersection that was only deep enough to rinse the bottom of the car but not get into anything (pretty sure, maybe only a foot deep), I started to feel rough engine feelings at speed. Feels as if straining a bit. Shifting feels ok going 1st to 4th when it should. I am really not sure if it is supposed to shift higher than 4th. I drove standard for years and I listen to the engine vs watching the tach all that much. So it was the straining sound and rough feel in the pedals that got me paying attention. It does shift and I see the expected 1:1 needle line up for tach and speed and then 4th drops the tach a bit. But going to work this morning when I got up to 70 the engine sounded as if it was in too low of a gear. The needle lead me to suspect it was in 4th. If I was driving standard, the sound would have me shifting into 5th. Then I hit a traffic jam (was actually so bad from an accident, I turned around and went home to try again later this morning!) while in the pretty much stopped, idle forward a car length then stop traffic, I saw that my tach was jumping from 700 to 800 then back down and back and forth. The engine sounds corresponded with the increase / decrease in reported rpms. The engine sounded and felt guttural like something was faintly coughing. The sound was so subtle that anyone else sitting in the car probably wouldn't notice it. I am just so in tune to the cars sounds. I changed the oil about a month or 1000 miles ago with Mobil One 5000 mile oil (still change at 3000 though) and new STP filter. Replaced idle air control valve, alternator, serp belt, harmonic balancer all within past 8 months. Replaced throttle control sensor about a year ago. 3 weeks ago replaced exhaust pipe/resonator and muffler. Got the wrong size cat to resonator gasket from Napa so just put on exhaust sealant which was what was on the old one. Car has 130,000 miles on it and I have owned for 2.5 years. I have not done any tranny work on it, but I have not and still do not feel any slipping. I am of the opinion that if tranny ain't broke, let it be. Too many horror stories of people getting that quick flush that destroyed their tranny (and yup I realize damage was already there and the new clean fluid just removed the gunk that was making tranny feel like it was ok). There are no error code lights and engine temp is right around 150-160 degrees. Only thing really different is that I am using the ac more but it comes out cold. In car volt meter in cig lighter port shows battery at car off at 12.6v and while running 13.8-14.2v. I cannot sink any serious money into this for about 3 weeks, and I can park it for some time if needed. But I am more than willing to go poking around and do some cheap stuff to try and keep it going. I will not be able to replace the car for at least a year, so gotta keep it going. Heck for all I know the engine just got wet and will be fine later. Thanks
  12. The L32 in my 04 Comp G is starting to consume oil at a somewhat alarming rate for only having 155k... It's burning one quart of oil every 2500 miles. I'm thinking that this may be due to the rings being coked up. Is there any way to remedy this, short of rebuilding it?
  13. Just got rear-ended and have over 2 grand in damage to the back of my pickup. Could repair the truck (100,000 miles, clean, reliable) and be done w it...or I could take the check, sell the truck as-is for $2500 and buy a sweet W-body...what do ya think? I'd probably want a Getrag, so I'm sure the reliability factor would drop significantly when compared to my S10...that's my main concern...
  14. Hello everyone, I am the proud new owner of a 95 Cutlass Supreme. It has had a hard life and hopefully with some love and TLC, I can teach my kids how to fix up a car while using it to drive 90 miles every day. Once upon a time (8 yrs ago), I was the proud owner of a 1990 Turbo STE and previous to that a 1989 Cutty Int'l. I still know my way around these cars, and hope that any information I used to know will come back. Currently, I own HP Tuners and am working on starting a shop and i hope that I can convert this to a full OBD II platform and be able to utilize the knowledge I have to tune this car for good efficiency and performance. I'm sure I will ask a bunch of "stupid" questions to get back into it, but I guess that is part of learning. Corey
  15. I'm Charlie, 18, and I recently bought a 1993 Euro Coupe for 500 dollars. It has 120,000 miles on it and the engine was replaced at 60k due to a spun bearing. Other than the interior being a bit worn the car is in pretty good shape and I like to think that I got a good deal. I usually lurk on forums due to laziness more than anything but the car has a bunch of little things that could use fixing so I'll probably be around here a bunch. The car: Those are thumbnails btw, linked to higher res versions. There are all sorts of fun things that require special handling to function, but that's to be expected with a car this cheap. To open the passenger door you have to push on the lock a little and put downward pressure on the handle. The turn signal stalk needs to be finagled the right way or the turn signals just come on instead of flashing. The parking break is sorta dangling useless both inside and underneath the car. There is a vaccuum hose that is dry rotted going to the cruize control. Speaking of dry rot all four tires are shot, but the 200-mile-old tires from my previous car (2001 Subaru Outback wagon) fit, so that shouldnt be too much of a problem. Other than the udder lack of cup holders, are there any model/platform specific quirks I should know about? P.S. I wasn't sure whether to post this in General, Members Rides, or here; please move if I chose wrong.
  16. I had a strange thing happen today, hoping someone knows what happened. I got my car out for the 1st time today drove 25 miles or so, parked for 1/2 hour. I got in, started it, when I put the shift in Reverse, no go, tried to go forward, same thing, it felt like the shift linkage was disconnected. I shut it off, then restarted it and everything was fine. Drove to a store parked, 20 min. came out and it worked fine and I drove home, Like nothing happened. It seems to be fine. Any ideas?.. Thanks for any input. Redpine '94 Cutlass, 3.4, 80,000 miles
  17. It's been three years since I was active on the forum and although I still have my handle and login info, my history and posts are gone, so I might as well be a newbie. I worked on the original W-Body Advanced Design Team at Fisher Body in '82/'83. My first W was a red '96 2-door Cutlass Supreme S which I loved. Ended up dropping a 3.4 (not an LQ) in it, but then one of the trailing arm anchors rusted through and I stupidly got rid of it. The I got a 2001 GPGT which has been nothing but trouble (and all but killed my enthusiasm for Ws) and I hope to be rid of it this year. i've had my eye on a car in town for a while. It's a 1st Gen 4-door GP in bright blue. I believe it has under 100k miles. It seems to be in very good condition inside and out but I haven't had a chance to go over it with a fine-tooth comb yet. I heard the guy wants. $3500 for it! I thought I'd offer $2000. That's what KBB says it's worth.
  18. Guys have any idea what a 1994 Z34 with 33,000 miles on it is worth?
  19. I have a clean 2001 GTP with 115k, black on black 2dr, with all options. I got a newer car and demodded, and now the car is a rolling chassis. It is rust free also. So far it has only taken up space in the garage and I want to get rid of it and get a new project. So before I do anything, I figured I would at least get some opinions. 1. Try to sell the car as-is, what's it worth? 2. Put another drivetrain and sell it running. I could get a lower mileage engine and trans for about $900. 3. Part it out. I'm leaning against this but have to consider it. I will probably go with option #2, but I figured I would ask the question anyways. Selling the car running is probably easier and would yield the most money. Although I think if someone offered me $500 for the car as-is I would take it. I just don't know if there would be any interest in a non-running GTP. Craigslist prices locally are all over the place. They go from $1500 for a high miles car to around $4000 for a clean one. What to do?
  20. MAKE SURE YOU REPLACE YOUR INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET BEFORE IT EVEN STARTS LEAKING. If it has already started leaking, there is a good chance that the oil passages in the engine have been gummed up by the white milky sludge. If this the case, your engine may suffer catastrophic failure. Today, as I was driving home, the Montana spun a bearing at 91,000 miles. This should NEVER happen to an engine with that low of milage. Again, if your Gen-III 60 Degree V6 hasn't had it's intake manifold gaskets changed, DO IT BEFORE IT'S TOO LATE. On a side note.. anyone wanna buy a fully loaded 1999 Pontiac Montana with a fucked engine?
  21. I have a 1990 Chevy Lumina with the 3.1, automatic. The car has been shifting hard into overdrive and I've been thinking about doing a fluid and filter change on it. The car has 102,000 miles on it, Not sure if I should change it or not Also has anyone used the products Trans tune from sea foam or Lucas oil transmission fix in any of there transmission do these products work?
  22. I'm getting this vibration from my car when i get above 60mph it doesn't get bad till 75mph though. now if i hit the throttle around 80mph it will shake hard enough to rattle things in the car, and once i let of it goes back to just a vibration. it doesn't do this at all under 60mph, and the acceleration shake doesn't start till 75+. I am thinking bad tires or a CV axle. thoughts car has only 60k miles
  23. I am looking at purchasing a 1996 Buick Century Wagon with the 3100 Series V6. It has 106k miles on the clock and looks to be in very nice condition. My big concern here are the infamous intake manifold gaskets. The dealer says he is unsure if the gaskets have ever been changed, but that they are not leaking. I'm going to see the car in-person tomorrow and take it for a test drive. I'm wondering if anyone could give me some advice? Is there any way to tell if the gaskets have been replaced? If there are no leaks with this much mileage, is it likely they have been replaced or never had the leaking issues? What other things can I look at for evidence of problems? Here's the link to the ad if this helps in any way... http://scranton.craigslist.org/ctd/3701598030.html If the car runs and drives well and checks out, I plan on buying this car tomorrow. But I want to make sure I'm not getting myself into problems with this car. I need it to be reliable and ready for work. Thanks everyone!
  24. Hi everyone, I just bought a 2001 Chevy impala (3.8L) with 56k miles and the seller of the car told me the engine has knocking and I probably wont be able to drive it home. I'm going to do my own diagnosis in the coming days however I have to assume that in the worst case scenario I will need to change the engine. My question is, should I buy a salvaged engine and pay someone to install it knowing that if the engine is bad I will not recover the fees payed to the mechanic? Thanks in advance, Andy
  25. ok so my trans is on its last leg. The engine is a 3.1 in a 92 cutlass vert. It will only pull out from a stop if i manually put it in 1st gear and shift it. So would you 1) buy a junkyard trans? Best i found was 88,000 mile trans for 350.00. Or would you l67 swap motor and trans into the vert? I found a l67 motor for 400.00 and 107,000 miles on it. Or would you put a 3400 in it and just buy the trans for 350.00 i said about. Or another option is put a cam in the 3.1 and replace the trans. I am geussing thats the easiest. The very is heavy and slow lol. I also own a fully restored 73 trans am with a 455 so the cutlass dont have to be real fast just need about another 20 horse to the wheels. I mean shit i got beat by a sunfire convertinle with a 2.2!!!!!! sorry for sounding like i cant make up. But i cant and want your guys input.
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