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Found 1,856 results

  1. Does anyone near me have a scan tool capable of getting 95 Buick ECM codes? I have been struggling with a check engine light for a while now, and now that spring is upon us, I would like it fixed for summer driving. The car is a 95 Buick Regal with a 3800. A few hundred miles ago, I started getting a SES light that comes and goes. At the time, it seemed random. At one point, I replaced a cracked EGR connector and thought that fixed it, only to get it again a couple weeks later. I have no idea what difference that made, but it did make it stop for around 10 days - maybe just a coincidence. It has started happening more and more often since then. Now it lights up every time the engine reaches operating temperatures without fail. Here is how it goes: At start-up, the light is on if it was on the last time the car ran. The light turns off during warm-up. The light comes back up a few miles away, right around the time the engine warms up. I imagine it is around the time it tries to go into closed loop. I am wondering if I am running in open loop full time because of this. I have replaced the oxygen sensor not too long ago (with a new bosch one). I have also replaced the EGR valve and connector (not new, but made no difference). I just replaced the TPS this morning and its connector because a couple of times I have gotten a sudden high idle in the past. Had no effect on the SES light. I would prefer not just switching out sensors till it is fixed, although with the fun OBD 1.5, that is a real possibility for me. I did try to use tunerpro to get some data from the computer, but this is the first time I have ever used it and so far I get some data, but it is erratic enough to call random. For the connection, I used RobertISaar's suggestion from another form for the USB cable. Like I said, not really an expert in tunerpro and have never tuned an EFI system before so I am not looking to do that, I just thought it would be an inexpensive alternative to getting raped by the local shops just to pull codes. I used the A and M pins for the connection. Only one other pin is used and I do not believe it has anything to do with the ECM. Now that your eyes hurt from reading my long post, does anyone around here have a tool capable of pulling codes from these cars? Comments and suggestions are also welcome. Thank you, Miller
  2. I have found a location in Columbus that would be a good spot for our meet -- Highbanks Metropark on 23 and a Motel 6 down the road a piece, about 3 miles. I figure we can give this a shot for some variety, and have the second meet in Toledo as it has worked for us for a few years. Of course, this being our meet it is not my decision alone. Please vote for how you'd like this year to go. I will leave this up for a week and make this thread visible.
  3. Tires are just under years old, and have a good amount of tread life in them, but since this is my main highway cruiser, and I regularly drive 150 miles to and from my girlfriend's place and over 99% of the drive is 65-70mph on the highway, you can understand I am worried about tread separation and blowouts. So would you say this dry rot is dangerous? It's funny though, I have 2 tires that are over a year older on my Festiva, and have zero dryrot, and I bought them out of a junkyard on top of being how old they are. lol Cooper > Bridgestone at least in terms of tire aging. I am Disappointed Japan
  4. So guys I have had a minor coolant leak but today it got really bad I filled up the radiator and overfill tank then drove around for about 30 minutes all that time there was coolant dripping leaving huge puddles in the places where I stopped I parked it and turned it off and there was a hiss near the thermostat and coolant leaking off the bottom of the car seeming like it was comming from the back of the engine there is also NO indication of oil and coolant mixing. Do you Guys have any ideas? GM 3.1 V-6 58,000 miles
  5. Not sure if this follows my manuals definition of delayed engagement for my transmission. Awhile back I replaced the neutral safety switch and then the starter and right about the time I took the switch off to clean and readjust it before replacing it I noticed that after starting it up and putting it in R or D it would act as if in N. I could feel the shift linkage move but the lurch from going from P to R or D would not present itself until after the engine ran for a few seconds(build up pressure?) then the trans would pick up on what the linkage was telling it to do. Fluid level is and should be OK, however even further back I replaced both the trans cooler lines at the same time and there is a 50% chance I have them backwards, In my mind if they were backwards something catastrophic would have happened by now but I've never reversed the flow of fluid to the transmission so I don't know what it would do. Before going any further the fluid is still red, unburned and the filter and fluid are WAY less than 15,000 miles. A small leak is present at one of the rubber to metal joints of the trans cooler line even after switching to the ring/screw style clamp vs the POS ones you have to use pliers on. Which leads me to think maybe I did get those lines backwards but surely I`d be seeing a massive amount of trans fluid on the ground or in the coolant if they were. Has anyone come across this issue or something similar before and what was done to remedy the problem? The manual has me thinking of the most complicated solution to the most complicated problem and that has very seldom been the case, always something simple that someone here thought of that I didn't (Long Island teas are my current drink of choice and forget they can sneak up on the unsuspecting) which is why this thread exists now.
  6. Okay two questions here: 1) I bought an oil pan gasket (Fel-Pro) in which the included instructions say to use no additional sealers. However, the GM factory service manual says to apply sealer (ie: RTV) at certain spots. Which should prevail? 2) When I have the pan off, is there any harm in removing the lower bearing caps (ie: one at a time) to inspect the bearings for wear/scoring/etc.? Being sure, of course, to re-install and re-torque appropriately? As many here may know, I am doing a sort of 'experiment' with the engine in not changing oil for extreme distances/times and want to take some pictures to prove (or disprove, or prove that I'm an idiot) that very long oil changes (ie: 40k miles) can be done on these engines without chewing up the bearings or causing a sludge monster. Thanks.
  7. 1. The biggest issue is that occasionally it just won't start. It will act like it's going to turn over, then it won't, or it will start, runs the rpm's really low and die. If I sit for about 45 minutes, it will just start out of the blue. The mechanic says he thinks it's the fuel pump, but he can't get it to repeat the issue anytime he has it in the shop. I have found if I keep the gas tank over 1/2 full it doesn't do it. 2. Today I had a 2nd key made for the car. I went to make sure it worked, it wouldn't start the car. (I've never had this problem with a store made key.} I started the car with my factory key, it started right up. I shut it off, used the store made key & it started right up but the Security Light came on & stayed on the entire way home. About 2 miles. When I got home I shut it off, turned it right back on with the store made key, Security Light still on. Not even 10 minutes later my daughter went to leave with the store bought key & it wouldn't work. Has anyone ever had this happen? I have never seen the Security Light come on, let alone stay on, nor had a store made key not work. Thank you in advance for any advice you can give me. Anyone know the best way to clean your headlight covers? Mine are getting pretty nasty & making it hard to see at night. Thanks again, Jennie.
  8. I am junking out my rusting black sedan and moving my 3800 to a rust free body and taking best of both cutlass into one. I'm not using my 3:43 trans anymore, delays going into gear and only get 18/19 mpg in town and 24-27 mpg highway. Reason #1- have a baby coming in sept and want dependable vehicle and Bonus- if I can optimize gas mileage as driver and vehicle we'd take on trips... option of trans. 1. 1996 3:05 FDR trans with 65k miles, 4t60e 2. 1988, 282 with all needed parts, except clutch How dependable are the 282 trans? What upgrades should I do to trans? Anyone use these with 3.5/3.8 engines that can tell me experience. Or If I use the 3:05 trans (already spare n selected for gas mileage), what would you recommend me doing before I install? Of course #1 goal is dependability, then Improved gas mileage. suggestions on which? Thoughts?
  9. While under my 98 MC yesterday, got a good look at the rear subframe, which my friend who sold me it said I would need to eventually replace it. Gave it a good jab in multiple rusty places on it with a screwdriver, and it still is pretty solid. I'd say another 50k miles at least. But what all rear subframes will fit, I know gen 1 is out, because that is monoleaf, but if the newest gen 2 ones work, those will have far less rust on them than any 1.5 subframe will have.
  10. Hey, I've got a '91 GTP 3.4 with 220k on it. It has an intermittent lifter tick when hot. All of the lifters clatter for the first 1/2 second before quieting down during a cold start, which is quite common from what I've read (had a 95 Z34 which did the same thing). After 15-20 miles of highway driving, I hear a lifter ticking (on the front band it sounds like) after I slow down and then engine is idling. It will quiet down and then get louder as I drive. If I allow the engine to cool for a bit, it gets over this problem. Any of you guys have this problem? I put a new set of Victor Reinz lifters in this thing to fix this issue, but it didn't change it much. I'm running syn. 10-30. Oil pressure is well within the acceptable range, according to the service manual. Do the oil temperatures get particularly high in this engine?
  11. just got a decent condition 1988 regal custom. 90k miles no rot minor rust when it's cold or first started it stalls when you hit the gas at idle. it will idle smooth and no CEL. when you go to accelerate it bogs and stalls or almost stalls then grabs. tried disconnecting MAF but it got worse and bucked during the driving range too. once it's warmed up after 5-10 minutes driving off idle is a very small hesitation but drives nice. oddly if I shut it off hot and restart it seems to reset the stall timer and you have to drive it a few minutes before it's ok again I got it for $400 and don't want to have a money pit.I have 4 other cars but i wanted a comfortable automatic American car
  12. Sorry about the other post, tapatalk app didn't use the screen name I had typed in, instead it just used my old email screen name. But anyway, I'm from Fairborn Ohio, and a few weeks ago I bought a 1998 Monte Carlo ls with a little over 200k miles on it from a friend for $460 as a second car. Other car being a 1991 Ford Festiva with a 1.6l swap, and a 5 speed. The Monte Carlo does have some rust issues I plan to get fixed. (Rust doesn't scare me!) Like the rear strut towers are rusted through, but my friend already offered up someone to weld them up. I got quite a few plans for this Monte, and I have a brother that knows the 3100 l82 inside and out, he's even done the 3.4 top end swap to his Malibu. First things first though, the rust needs fixed before I dump any amount of money into it. Pics coming shortly.
  13. One thing I have noticed since my car was new, over 7 years ago, is that the rear tires bowed out a little bit. You could see this when approaching the car from the rear. I was told it was normal, by both the dealer and by tire stores. I never studied Grand Prixs or Monte Carlos of the same year to see if the tires did that. That seemed to be the case on some LaCrosses. The tires wore well for the first 30,000 miles and I'm sure I knocked out the alignment somewhere along the way. They are wearing faster now. I will need to replace them and get an alignment at the same time. I sure didn't get the 60,000 miles advertised for this OEM tire. My last W-body's original tires went 80,000 miles. Question: Is this bowing out of the rear tires normal for some W-body makes? Is this the sort of situation where shims will need to be added when I get a 4 wheel alignment? I've never seem them insert shims during a wheel alignment on any car I've owned. "Bonus" question: If you were going to go into some high quality Michelin tires, would you also replace the struts or do that a little later? I've heard OEM struts typically last 50,000 to 60,000 miles, on average. Your input is highly appreciated. Thanks!
  14. Recently changed the fuel filter it was dirty and had some ethanol sludge in it. About a week ago. Haven't done anything else. Cracked it today and it had a consistent miss hooked up the scanner and it didn't detect any misses. Was wondering if someone could take a look at the readings.
  15. Ok need some help and Ill try to be as detailed as i can. 3.1 with 113k miles, having idle misfires and misfires at any rpm. Give it more gas trys to cover it up but its there. Checked spark plugs they all looked perfect, i replaced them anyway. I also replaced the spark plug wires. when you let off the gas it bucks and surges hard. in drive at a stop it feels like it will die but doesnt just idles missing . Theres no water or antifreeze in the oil. Theres good fuel pressure. No signs of vacuum leaks. New fuel filter . New air cleaner. Heres the snag I have run down on my budget for this car and I have enough to get a new ignition module or coil packs but not both. I really dont want to just keep throwing parts at the car. I know check for codes , plugged the code reader in and its not throwing any codes at all. Which boggles the mind with such pronounced misfiring. No codes. So which direction should i go or am i missing something? please help this is our only vehicle and I hate driving it in such condition. Thanks in advance.
  16. Hi there...just purchased this vehicle VIN:1G5WP14V7LF277741, in Joliet IL. 74,000 miles. red with cloth interior and cassette player and sunroof. Just starting to find out more.
  17. Good morning everyone, My name is James from San Antonio. I recently acquired a 94 Cutlass Ciera with 80k original miles. It has been well serviced by its elderly PO and runs\drives great. If I believe the temp gauge though, it is being weird. It moves around a lot. Leaving town yesterday it warmed up normally and climbed a tick past mid way (which is 220) then dropped back to about 1/4 then settled around 200...a tick below half. Cool But it didn't last...I sped up to merge onto another hwy and it crept up again. Now for the whole 60 mile interstate drive it was running 200 to 230 by the gauge, varying the whole way. Half way in stopped for gas and left it idling...the car got warm about 3/4 up the gauge getting close to the red. When I merged back to the highway the temp dropped rapidly to 1/4 ...them slowly returned to what it was doing before moving 200 to 230 and back. So I dropped it out of overdrive to bring revs up...no change. So it runs hot all the time ..at idle...at speed....sometimes I let it coast down a klong hill on the highway ...barely drops it at all. None of the usual things seem to make sense... Any thoughts. And yes water is full and looks fairly good. The PO was reminding me to check the battery water...I think its been fairly well serviced.
  18. Hi all, I just inherited a 93 Cutlass Supreme S with under 8,000 miles. I took it directly to my trusty mechanic to go over it & get it checked out and make it road worthy again. I have been doing a lot of reading here and some of it is starting to make sense. I have some ST springs going on the front soon, GOT 2B GM RSTB and a few more upgrades going on soon also. Thanks in advance to all of the questions to come. Ken
  19. So I need to replace the transmission in my GP. It's a '94 SE 3100 v6 w/ the 4t60e. I'm assuming i can use any 4t60e from any W body from '94-'95 as long as it is equipped with the 3100 v6. I could be wrong about that though? What are some things I should look for in a junkyard transmission, other than low(ish) miles. I was going to drop the pan in any trans I deem may be suitable for my car to look for excessive clutch material or any abnormalities (burnt fluid, chunks of metal, etc). I was also going to replace all shift solenoids for added insurance. Thanks in advance guys!
  20. I've got a 2008 base Buick LaCrosse with a 3800 Series III V6 and under 50,000 miles. I got an oil change last week. The next day, the check engine light went on. I was wondering what they might have messed with at the dealership that possibly loosened a connection or knocked out a sensor. It was purely a coincidence. I went to an auto parts store. They scanned it with the OBD II device as a courtesy and it kicked out code p0128. This means "Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature." I was thinking that, most likely, I would be replacing the ECT sensor (not an expensive sensor) or the thermostat was stuck open. Tonight, when I drove off, the checking engine light went off. And it has stayed off. When the light went on, we had had a cold snap. Today, it was about 20 degrees F warmer outside. I'm wondering if this had anything to do with it and if I can ignore the issue. What do you think? Have you had check engine lights that came off and then sort of went away? Also, have you heard of this particular issue and could it have been caused a big drop in the temperature outside?
  21. I am not a fan of that fuel system service GM dealers try to sell - from $75 to $99, where they put some cleaning compound through the fuel and induction system. Right now, on a 2008 LaCrosse with a 3800 V6, I use branded fuel (Chevron, Shell, Texaco) some 90% of the time, don't let the tank go below 1/4 (because the fuel filter is in the tank),* and put in a bottle of Chevron Techron f.i. cleaner or STP concentrated f.i. cleaner every 5,000. So far, at under 50,000 miles, I'm still getting the EPA 30 mpg on the open road. Therefore, I told them I don't want this service. The last service adviser cleared all the recommended service items off my roster because I told him to do that and he knows I keep the car well maintained. I wasn't even this diligent with my last Buick 3800 and the injectors went for as long as I owned it - about 275,000 miles. Questions: - Am I doing this right, as far as fuel and fuel injector cleaner? - Can I put in the fuel injector cleaner more often - say every 3,000 miles, or is that excessive? - What's up with those fuel system service packages? I'm worried they might send too much cleaner through the system and mess with the injectors. Has anyone had that service done? Thanks.
  22. 89 Cutlass 2.8L, 229k miles. This is mostly an "I can't decide so I'm soliciting opinions" question. Car was dying intermittently and randomly (i.e. pull out of the driveway, it dies, but started right up). Also had IAC troubles when nothing seemed wrong with the IAC. Checked injectors, and these are the readings I got (after subtracting 0.3-ohms for lead resistance): 11.0 12.0 11.3 11.8 11.9 8.8 Saar found GM spec is something like 11.8-12.6 ohms. I found that same spec in my 94 FSM, but that's for SFI injectors. Not sure what acceptable range is for old 88-93 MPFI Multec injectors, couldn't find it in my 89 FSM. I've read SFI vs MPFI injectors are slightly different somehow, I so I kind of wonder if resistance specs may differ. Obviously one is clearly bad. 2 are lower than the 94 spec. Due to work and the fact the wife and I are now car-pooling and I'm stuck at work till 5:30 now, no way I'll be able to get used injectors locally. I'll have to buy new and they're at least $30/pop, probably closer to $35/each at Rockauto with their high S&H. The car has high miles, 229k, and tranny is dying a slow death (3rd gear slipping when cold). So I'm mainly looking at spending minimum $$$ to keep my heap on the road. Taking heapiness of the car into account and cost of new injectors, would you advise that I should replace the marginal 11.0 and 11.3-ohm injectors? I'd replace them all with new, but you know, old heap with dying tranny... also, the 12.0 ohm one is a replacement Standard FJ105 I put in back in 1997, so I think it's fine to replace in onesies. Made a poll, in case you don't want to say anything. EDIT: Another option, found "GB Remanufacturing" remanufactured injectors, set of 6 for about $86. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reman-OEM-Pontiac-Fuel-Injectors-1989-1993-Grand-Prix-3-1L-OHV-/251735659889?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1989|Make%3AOldsmobile|Model%3ACutlass+Supreme|Submodel%3AInternational|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.8L&hash=item3a9c9d5571&vxp=mtr Would be cheaper than buying 3 new ones.
  23. I just wanted to give a HUGE THANK YOU to everyone on the forum here that has helped me over the past few years that I have lurked around and sought help in keeping my 1994 Cutlass Supreme alive and running... and keeping it going as my daily driver for the last few years. This forum is a great resource, and I'm really glad that I found it when I acquired the Cutlass from my in-laws. I know you guys don't know me - but I'm just going to go on for a little bit here: I was fortunate enough to get Bessie (my Cutlass Supreme) from my in-laws at a time when my newer, low mileage car had a major engine disaster - they were kind enough to sell Bessie to me for $1 to get me through that tough time. I ended up holding onto the car for around 3 years. My sister was replacing her Jeep with a newer model - and she offered me her 2009 Patriot at a price that was too good to turn down... so it was time to pass Bessie along to another person who was going through a tough "car time". She had 194,500 miles when she was driven away by her new owner a few days ago - it was a sad moment because the car had been around since her parents bought it while my wife was in high school... but it was nice to know that she was going to a new owner that was going to benefit from all of the hard work I had done making her reliable again. Anyway - let me say it again: Thank you all for this great site and for sharing your knowledge!
  24. Greetings all. We recently bought an '88 Regal, mostly for my daughter to drive. 129K miles, and was previously owned by the mother-in-law of a mechanic buddy so it's pretty solid and has had most needed maintenance done. It had the pretty common way too stiff gas pedal, so we found the throttle mechanism recall kit on ebay for fifty bucks and fixed that last weekend. Unfortunately the car met a pickup truck on the freeway last night and we need to find a passenger door so I'll be trolling junkyards and forums and craigslist until we do. It's pretty cold in Wisconsin right now with no window on the right side so we need to figure that out pretty quick. Leads appreciated. Jim White '88 Regal
  25. Hello All and Happy New Year! My wife purchased a 1990 Regal Gran Sport Coupe new and drove it until 2005. It was parked with about 160K well maintained miles. She bought a new vehicle and decided against trading in or selling the Regal as it was her 1st new car. It has sat outdoors under a car cover until just a couple of months ago. We made space for it in the garage. I have put it on stands. She wants me to get in back into shape so she can have it as a "play" car. It's the 3.1L V-6 and I have tore it down to the intake manifold so I can replace the gaskets. I plan to pretty much refurbish everything to new or as close to new as possible. I will post up some pics on the progress.
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