UA-65274002-1 Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'issue'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Site Related
    • W-body.com Announcements and News
    • New Member Introductions
  • General W-Body Discussion
    • FAQs and Technical Information
    • General
    • Powertrain
    • PCM Tuning
    • Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
    • Car Audio
    • Appearance/Car Care
    • Member's Rides
    • Events
  • Specialty Forums
    • Turbo Grand Prix
    • Cutlass Supreme Convertible
  • Classifieds
    • W-body For Sale/Trade
    • W-body Wanted
    • Links and deals
    • W-body Auction Watch
    • Other For Sale or Trade / Wanted

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Biography


Location


Interests


Occupation

Found 960 results

  1. Well I'm getting no codes..but I just have this like Trans mission acceleration problem. Like I'm stuck in 2nd gear. What would cause this no first gear issue in any gear selection. ??????? Thanx
  2. So recently, my 94 Cutlass 3.4 DOHC has been having this weird idle issue whenever I start the car. Once the engine is warm, it's all good but I have this weird feeling that the car is running rich at startup since there's a noticeable smell of gas whenever the car is started in the morning. It doesn't do this once the car is at normal operating temp (200F). I'm not sure if the car needs a new TPS or a MAF but I'm getting ready to change both. Now I've noticed that the MAF sensor on the 3400, the 3100, and I think the 3800 are the same style as the one in my 3.4 DOHC. So I must ask.... did GM use the same MAF on all of its engines? Would there be no issue if I went to the yard and got a MAF out of an Impala or a Grand Prix or are the MAF sensors different? All help is appreciated.
  3. This is my first post. I currently own a 2005 chevy ss impala...... recently my trans stopped work, I removed it and had it rebuild... the guy who rebuild it was a gm A1 tech who I worked with before...... he tore it down and said the input clutch drum went bad.... so he rebuilt it, used drum from another 4t65e-hd, new bands, new clutches...... I ordered a 2500 stall speed convertor.... I installed it myself at the shop I work at..... I drive it and rides fine for the first few days... then I noticed a vibration at idle and at a slow creep.... a day later P0744 tcc stuck on/off.... I cleared it and drove it for another day. I contacted the place I bought the convertor from they said its prob the shift solenoids...(which I've replaced plenty of times and its usually a harsh shift) the next day, my trans stopped moving. Contacted my trans guy he said its prob the convertor(without tellin him where I got it) told me to put the old one in. Contacted the supplier they told me its an internal issue unless the splines from the convertor were broke.... also said no refund on used parts just warranty.... which if the t.c. is faulty why would I go through all that work just to possibly have another issue with there t.c..... what's your input people? Before I remove this trans again....
  4. Hey everyone, help me solve my A/C issue quick! 92 Olds Cutlass Supreme, A/C doesn't seem to cool. I see the fan and the compressor come on, but I think possibly somehow the heated air and the cold air are blowing through the vent at the same time. I turned my (digital) a/c up to 85 and it seemed to blow the same temp (possibly even cooler) than it did at 65. I did have a good part of the top of the engine off when I replaced the crankshaft sensor to ICM wiring a month ago. Is there a door that is vacuum controlled for this? If so where do I look for connecting lines. I have part of the dash off and will take more off, but can't figure this one out. I have added a can of Freon and a can of oil, but it doesn't seem to effect it. My really basic gauge showed about 70psi before and after the cans.
  5. Ok so i just helped tune a 05 GTP but he is having an issue when he lets off the gas. It will down shift from 4th down to 2nd quickly skipping over 3rd. has anyone seen this issue before? In the tune the only trans settings that were changed were the 2-3 and 3-4 WOT rpm and mph. no other trans setting were adjusted. his stock pcm works fine, but the spare pcm we are using with the tune is having the issue. i also lowered PE throttle enable % to 40% from 48.... could this interfere with the throttle by wire? im just baffled what could cause it to down shift when letting off the peddle.
  6. Looks like its the ever elusive timing chain cover leak directly below the rear head gasket.. same old question guys.. please chime in Timing cover users say remove oil pan http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/f53/96-pontiac-3-1-timing-cover-leak-82967/ users say do not remove oil pan http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/gm-1995-98-3-1l-timing-cover-water-leak-issue-163617.html http://www.gmforum.com/oldsmobile-171/front-cover-gasket-replacement-304245/ http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/289398/ Not sure if I'm gonna do the oil pan or not.. certainly can't hurt since it'll go bad sooner or later.. What has been your experience???
  7. Overtime slowed down a bit at work, so I finally got a chance to start on this project. Retrofit includes Morimoto mini H1 projectors. These are some excellent projectors; not some Chinese crap. Designed for HIDs. Had to take his old housings apart to get the clear corners out. Heat gun FTW. Since the old housings were junk, we got new ones. So much damn sealer... Pop the cap off... And the other one... Houston, we have a problem. That projector sticks out about 1/4" too far, and that's without the shroud... These aren't exactly plug n play. Looks like it's time to bust out the dremel, but first, a test fit on the old housings. Just in case I screw something up. The verdict? Tight fit, but I can make this work... This last picture shows the extent of how tight this fit is. The lens just barely fit, and it's touching the shroud. Granted, the shroud wasn't screwed in place, but still. Damn... Let's go over what it took to make those actually fit. Bust out a dremel with a grinding stone. Grind out a circle as wide as the circle in the back of the housing. Start grinding an angle, from the back. Be careful. Grind the bottom deeper. The hole is actually not centered vertically, and is a tad bit high. Drill a hole right below to run the high beam switch wires. Assuming you're using the Gatling shroud, you'll need to grind down the columns so you can fit the projector housing deeper inside the shroud. Pay attention to the lens end to make sure it's flush, and grind down as far as you can possibly go. The biggest clearance issue is at the shroud. Grind off the top of the shroud because it rubs up against the top of the headlight housing. Trust me, it's a really tight fit, and this is after I already did some grinding... Much better... Let's hook up a 6A battery charger and give it a try... One half down! Time to get the other side done, then take it all apart and paint it black.
  8. As a former owner of imports decided to purchase a 1996 grand prix se.Always like the look of it.Car was missing various items but found every thing I needed to bring back to life .Have had the car for 8 months now.The major issue was replaceing the transmission.Looking forward to custom painting it .Thinking of changing out factory chrome rims and spoiler.Will post pictures of ongoing process.
  9. I think I have a bad valve cover gasket. a few weeks ago I noticed oil on two of the three front spark plugs. My question would be, has anyone had this issue and is it an easy fix? Also, I still have that hard starting problem which I still think may be the fuel pump but could that oil on the spark plugs be related to it not always wanting to start and idling rough?
  10. I have a 1993 Lumina Z34 obviously with the 3.4l lol. Ive been having trouble trying to figure out what her deal is. When i start her up she runs and drives fine. When it reaches operating temp the idle is really wacky and when driven it bucks and studders until you make it to about 20mph. When coming to a stop it may stall. In the past 1000 miles ive replaced plugs, wires, all injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, plus the timing belt was redone 5000 miles ago. I know the O2 sensor is bad b/c it wont come out of open loop and im in the process of replacing it but im not thinking thats my issue. Any help would be great! Thanks Guys!
  11. I was just watching some random videos on youtube and came across this one... Why did this plenum explode? I read one of the comments on there about the exploding intake being due to a defect in the fuel system, and I was thinking that when I changed my fuel sender unit, even with the car off the fuel pressure was super high. Even relieving the pressure through the valve on the fuel rail didn't relieve the pressure, it would just keep building up. Is this something I can fix? I was at the junkyard the other day and saw a lot of 3800 GP's whose engine's caught fire, and I'm not looking to have my car join them... I haven't been able to find much on google, mainly just stuff about the other issue with oil leaking on the exhaust manifold shows up.
  12. When I start up my 93 Cutlass Convertible, I heard a Loud clank/Clunk noise every 2 to 3 seconds. It's not a rapid noise, and it only does this while in park. I can reverse smoothly, the car drives fast & smooth on the road and the transmission Shifts with no issues and never misses. Sound comes from under the vehicle and I can feel it sort of under the drivers seat. Engine is quiet and smooth so I know it isn't that. Any Ideas what this could be?
  13. So the other day my stereo fuse started blowing every time I power the car on. Didn't happen til the other day, and I hadn't changed anything in weeks. I unplugged the stereo, and plugged in the stock stereo. When I turned the key on the stock stereo displayed the time as normal, but when I hit the power button, it popped the ELEC fuse... So I'm confused, and all my wiring looks more than fine. Thoughts?
  14. ok, so I bought this very clean 97 GTP coupe long/short all options available in 97 and looks brand new and only 124 on the clock. the engine would stall when stopped. not all the time, stalled only 4 times. i read around and saw that the fuel pump resistor could be the problem, when i removed the plenum cover, i noticed a lot of vaccum elbows broken and taped, or simply missing. so i did the vaccum lines over again and it is running better and the check engine light is gone...however.....i cant for the life of me figure out where one line goes, its from the evap emission canister purge vac 10mm vent port. see pic below. there are three ports. left/right and middle pointing up....where does the middle one go? i see an elbow off of it, but nothing else! cannot seem to find the line it goes to... anybody have experience with this or a good pic of the vacuum?
  15. Hey guys, just curious for some advice on my gf's 95 GP SE 3.1. It intermittently has an idle issue while braking, when it does do it, its idles down to 500 ish rpm and goes back up to 1000. When its acting up it will do this for the duration of the braking and idle back once stopped. Driving around is fine. Any Ideas?
  16. Psych0matt

    misfire ideas

    GTP has a random misfire, seems to go away most of the time if I back off the throttle. For example, if I leave a stop and get into second gear with 50% throttle or so, it seems to be consistent, but once I let off a little it seems to even out and be fine. With the new exhaust setup, it's really noticeable though. Newer plugs and wires. Seems like it's always had this issue though. Other than trying other coilpacks/ICM, any suggestions? I haven't put my chip in yet because I want the misfire gone first
  17. When sitting in traffic for too long, the engine heats up to about 240ish and the idle drops to about 500 then comes back up to 900 repeatedly, at about 1 second intervals. The car feels like its about to stall. It only does this when the engine gets hot. When I am moving, the temp gauge stays right at 210. Once I get out of traffic and drive for a while allowing the engine to cool I have no problems. I decided to do a little self diagnosis on the issue. I opened the hood and let the car idle in park for a good 6 minutes or so, letting the engine heat up. Only one radiator fan came on at around the 240 mark, and the engine did not cool down. No matter how hot it gets, I can only get one fan to turn on. Im sure if I let it idle at a standstill for longer, it would overheat and stall. I tried powering each one individually with a 12v power supply, they both spun. Next, I checked the relays. I swapped them around, and they both work fine. Using my power supply to bridge the relay contacts, I discovered one relay plug activated the the driver side fan, and the other one activated both. Are there any other fuses I could check anywhere? I know the fans turning on can be related to AC, and my car does not have a compressor.
  18. This is a 94 'Vert that I am going to look at tomorrow. Has 89900 miles Needs 2 tires Gas gauge and speedometer dont work Has idle issue think mass air flow or ecu not sure Has new brakes Leather great condition top good condition I spoke with the owner and she said the erratic idle goes away once it's in gear and during driving - it only occurs at start-up. Her father is a mechanic and said a simple computer from the junkyard would fix the gauges and the idle issue would require possible a mass airflow and some other sensor. Does this sound reasonable, or are these major issues with these cars? Thanks, Greg Davis
  19. I have a 91 cutlass supreme, it is a derby car, so its rather ripped apart. it ran great, but i didnt start it for awhile, then the sprayed and pressure washed the pulleys. and now it wont start, no spark in getting .6 ac from the main crank sensor. it is not spraying gas either, plugs are dry. Im lost. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks 230k miles on it
  20. im in the process of gathering the parts for an l27 to series 2 l67 conversion on a 94 regal gs.i have a 2000 regal gs as the donor car.when it comes to wiring im not very adept.id love to find someone that could complete an engine harness and the interior harness for it.id send out whatevers needed from the 2 cars to start the process.ive tried to pm a guy called bxx(bob i think)but havent had any luck with a reply so figured id toss this in here and see if anyones up to the challenge.im just hoping that i can get this project started and finished in a year max.im gonna be pulling the motor and trans from the 94 so that i can clean up the engine bay and paint it.im thinkin of going with either a gun metal color or just a darker grey like submarines use.i would go black but theres that whole heat issue.but yeah figured i should start this project before i get too old and just give up on it lol...
  21. Went to turn on the AC today and wasn't getting any air out of the vents. Tried turning it off and back on again and still nothing, accept smoke starting to come out of the vents badly. Pulled over and shut the car off completely, got out and could still hear the blower motor trying to work....so I tore off the bottom dash and unplugged it to get the car home. Got home and ripped the old blower motor out.....it's fairly seized up. Mike had an extra OEM blower motor out of an 01 or 02 Grand Prix...so I tried plugging it in and as soon as i did the thing started spinning ful blast (mind you, HVAC dial was off and keys were not even in the car.) Blower motor resistor? or bigger issues maybe?
  22. Hey guys, I installed an L36 3800, 4T65-E, wiring harness and PCM out of a 98 LTZ Lumina in my '95 Olds Cutlass Supreme this weekend originally equipped with the 3100, but it won't start. No power to the starter. I had a key made with the resistance of the key out of the Lumina but cut for the lock cylinder of the Olds. I had to change a few wires around in the C-100 connector, but none related to the VATS system or starter. Fuel pump runs and all my lights and gauges work. I have not had any programming done to the computer. Do you guys have any ideas? Could it be a VATS system issue? I saw mention of a theft deterrent module or relay in the wiring pinouts when I was working on the wiring. Is that something I need to swap from the Lumina into the Olds?
  23. Well, I've found yet another issue with my car. A couple months ago, I redid all the gaskets and o-rings on everything from the LIM up. Changed the UIM to the Dorman re-designed version which supposedly doesn't melt or warp like the stockers. NOW, my problem is that I'm having a leak from around where the fuel injectors go into the top of the LIM. It's pretty much a constant hiss and although there's no smell of fuel or anything, it doesn't sound good. However, I changed the o-rings on the injectors and cleaned out the spots where the o-rings sit so I don't understand why it would be leaking at all? Anyone have any ideas of what I could do to stop the leak without taking the fuel rail and injectors off? I don't want to take it all apart again if I don't have to. I was thinking of maybe using some of that green putty stuff that Billy Mays used to sell on TV (its like plasticine that turns rock hard) but it might let off some funky fumes when it gets hot, or I might not be able to get it off ever again in case I need to do some more work to the engine.
  24. Alright, so ever since I got my HID's in, I've been trying to figure out how to get the DRL's to stay off. I was really excited when I heard about BBEngineer's DRL/ALC bypass harness, but unfortunately he no longer sells them and he hasn't been responding to my e-mails. So, I've been looking all over the place for another solution. I tried pulling the DRL relay from the fuse box under the hood and bending over pin 87, with absolutely no effect. Interestingly enough, I was able to find a solution posted up on another w-body website (not sure if I'm allowed to post links so I'm just going to reiterate what I found out there...)Anyways, what I found on this other website was a solution for 04/05 monte's and although it works on 99-03 Impala and Montes, it works differently. What you need to do is to remove both of the under-hood fuse blocks from their cradle. There is 3 clips on each block which hold it in, and you MUST take them both off at the same time because they're connected. So once you get them out, you'll see a small grey clip on the side of each fuse block. What you need to do is pull this clip out CAREFULLY. You don't need it pulled out all the way. Once you have that pulled out, you can now pull out the light green wire with a black stripe from where it connects to the back of the DRL relay. Be careful when you pull it out because you might rip the spade connector off the end. Once you have this green/black wire pulled out, tape it off and put the grey wire retainer clip back in. Push both fuse blocks back into place, and voila! You're done. NOW - The problem with this method on 99-03 Monte's and Impala's is that this WILL activate the "service vehicle soon" light which some people might find more annoying than having the DRL's in the first place. 04-05 models don't have this issue. I have also heard that it will turn on all the headlights since the DRL's aren't working, but I didn't have that problem. My DRL's are the only thing which were affected. From what I understand, this will also not affect the automatic head light system from working at night but I could be wrong because as I only did this mod yesterday, I haven't driven in the dark yet. If you want the link to the other forum where I found the original instructions, PM me and I'll give it to you. If I encounter any other issues, I will let you know. Also, if anyone can PM me and tell me where I can get a DRL bypass harness, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do! I would appreciate it more than you could know.
  25. I've not really had an issue with brakes on the Cutlass...till yesterday. Had to stop from 50 MPH when a light turned red unexpectedly. Pressed the brakes HARD...car made a leisurely stop from 50, it DID stop, but as hard as I was pressing the pedal, it should have practically stood on it's nose. Brakes feel fine at lower speeds, pads are less than a year old, semimetallics on the front, ceramic on the rear, 4-wheel disc brakes. Any idea where to start looking? Panic stops stink!
×
×
  • Create New...