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Found 960 results

  1. A little backstory: When I bought the car about a year and a half ago it had a similar issue, I would get up to speed (65-70) and it would drop in to overdrive for a bit, and then kick back down to third and stay the rest of the trip. Around september last year I replaced the FPR, and that solved a lot of issues, including this. Around the end of december I noticed some raw fuel smell when it gets warmed up and then idles (stoplights, parking lots, whatever). It's been going on ever since, but I've always maintained around 22mpg and have had no other issues, aside from it sometimes not starting right away if I don't let the fuel pump prime, basically meaning I have a pressure leak somewhere, I figure in an injector o ring probably. Today it starts doing the downshift thing again, get up to speed, it drops into overdrive and sits around 2500rpm for a few minutes, and then a downshift where I sit around 3500rpms. So, do I assume my fpr is on the way out again, or would something else cause this issue? No SES lights or anything...
  2. Hello All, I have been having an issue with the hose clamps on my upper and lower radiator hoses and I found that it is always the hose clamps. I buy the worm gear type and they seem to always fail. I am now in search of the OE spring clamp style hose. Does anyone know where to buy these?
  3. ok so just this weekend i finished putting my '93 lumina Z34 back together. i put on new heads and cam carries, all new vacuum and fuel lines, new fpr, o2 sensor, canister purge valve, temp senson, oil pressor sensor, plugs, wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, new timing belt, alternator, accessory belt, intake air temp sensor, and other misc stuff. even after all that i still have a slight misfire. the only thing i really haven't replaced would be the ICM and the coil packs. I'm almost positive that is my issue but my question is that if one goes bad would it cause just a slight miss fire or wouldn't it be more noticeable? ive always experienced that if a coil pack goes bad it creates a much larger problem. Any insight would be much appreciated, thank you
  4. vyper144

    Water Leak

    2002 Impala LS I have a leak, however, this one is NOT the passenger side, its NOT the cowl weatherstripping above the cabin air filter. (I learned that one the hard way...) This one is on my driver side... I have ruled out the sunroof drain hose 100%. I know that's not leaking, because I poured about 3 gallons of water down it and not one single drop of water inside the car. Currently: My car has NO carpet. I have pulled the foam back where this pocket is hidden behind. This is underneath the dash on the driver side. Now I have a theory that the plug that the sunroof drain hose goes through, leaks water. The really weird part about this issue is, you can't just pour water on the car and expect to see water flowing. The water pools up in the pocket, where the bolts for the bottom door hinge go through, and once its full, it begins overflowing. Now, after looking at the hinge, I really don't believe that the hinge is leaking, but the plug that the drain hose goes through is directly above, causing the rust you see in the video. My ultimate fear is that the plug isn't leaking... But the water is coming from somewhere above, running between the two panels (see where the plug that the sunroof goes around, there are 2 panels of metal that come together). If I seal around the plug, I'm just sealing water/moisture in between those two panels and waiting for the cancer to spread (fast). So I am turning this thread over to you, hoping you have some insight on the leak. VIDEO: Thanks guys!
  5. I have a 1993 Buick Regal with a 3800 motor. I am having an issue with bubbles in the coolant and am trying to determine if it is a cracked block/head or just a bad head gasket. The car does not overheat and there is no mixing or coolant in oil or oil in coolant. The coolant reservoir does however get some bubbles in it when up to temp and I can feel bubbles in the hoses. It also seems to lack the power of my other regal with the 3800. Also I have very high oil pressure over 100 psi. Is there any sure way to determine what the cause of this is?
  6. Hello all- Long time Oldsmobile guy, first time convertible owner. Picked up a '94, black over red 3.4L, 116K over the weekend. Has some usual problems, the most serious of which is when you hit the button for the top to go up, you hear the pump go but the top barely moves. If you help it up it will close. The pump has a opaque reservior with two lines cast into it. When the top was up the fluid was above the bottom line, so I don't belive low fluid is the issue. If it retracts o.k., does that suggest that the rams are not the problem? Am I safe to assume that the pump is the issue? Thanks, Scotty
  7. Another small issue with the 92 GP we just bought! The high beams are on all the time as the directional lever won't click (just moves back and forth). What may have snapped? How bad is it to get in there to replace/fix?
  8. so im in the process of replace the intake gaskets on my 94 3.4 euro. i have everything back together and it runs again, however i seem to have a pretty substantial coolant leak that i am still trying to find. the first spot that was leaking was the quick disconnect at the lower intake, then it was the small hose going up into the plenum, now i can't see where its coming from. it appears to be coming from the back of the engine, or at least running to there. attached is a picture from the old intake(it was cracked so i replaced it) when i removed it there was nothing in the hole above the thermostat, the one i got from the junkyard looks the same. is there supposed to be something there? sorry if thats a really noob question, but im at my wits end with this thing, and would just like to to run. also another issue it has now is that ANY tap on the throttle, even if you barley touch it will result in it revving up to almost 2000 rpm and slowly coming back down. my first thought was vacuum leak, however i tried the old trick of spraying carb cleaner on the hoses and got no change in idle, i also sprayed on the intake gaskets and again got nothing. could this be an electrical issue( TPS or IAC)? one more question, is there a way to test the temp gauge? because when i start it its already reading at about the 1/4 mark. any help at all on these issues would be greatly appreciated
  9. I was coming back from a friends place everthing was fine,overdrive was shifting great at 50mph. Getting on the highway,overdive didint kicked in at 50mph and my engine was reving at 2500rpm instead of 1900rpms at 60mph. Got home,turned the car off... then i decided to go back on the highway,and overdrive shifted great at 50mph. What the hell is going on here? Should i take a chance of changing the oil in my tranny even at 250 000km's ?? Thanks for the help!
  10. The cooling fans wont come on on my 96 cutlass with the 3.1 I have replaced the temp sensor and they still wont come on , gauge works though, when I unplug sensor fans come on and run fine. Thought maybe a defective sensor got another same results. Any ideas?
  11. I bought a 95 GP today and The bezel which covers the radio/speedometer is really gooey and looks like a dog mauled it to death? Is this a common problem with age or what? Is there a remedy or just find a good one from a junk yard?
  12. Had an odd issue present its self last night after a run down the freeway. Once I got off at my exit and stopped at a red light my oil gauge in the top left corner started dropping erratically until it set the check gauges light on but once I started moving again it returned to normal until I stopped again. Had to clock in and my superiors are not thrilled like I am when I`m covered in Cutlass Crud and smell like WD-40 and trans fluid( Air Wick needs to get on this scent:lol:) So after a few hours a came out on break and messed around with the car and could not reproduce the problem. So I`m thinking its either the oil temp sensor or the oil pressure switch on its way out. Does this sound like an issue someone has come across before? Sorry for the wall of words, my return key doesn't skip lines on this site for some reason.
  13. blackbear

    no tail lights

    I have a 97 lumina and suddenly have no tail lights and no dash lights. Everything else works fine. checked fuses and all checks ok. Anyone ever had this issue?
  14. So my '93 cutlass supreme 3.4l has been sitting in storage until I found the ambition to replace the heads. I went to start it the other day and hooked the charger up to it. A few seconds after I did that I heard a loud pop and smoke started coming outta the throttle body. I dont have anything thing now. No cluster movement or anything. Not sure what happened. Your opinions would be great they are always helpful. Thank you
  15. I got a system put in my car by a "professional" car audio shop near me. They did all the wiring through my car and installed a new headunit. I have 2 mtx subs and a pretty nice alpine amp. The ISSUE is i keep losing power to this amp, it'll turn on and off at random. I have no idea why because all the connections are right and hooked up. I dont even abuse my system its on pretty chilled out settings. I just have no idea where the shop installed my grounds, so i think those are possibly loose. The reason i won't take it to the shop now is because they are crooks who chop cars and make copies of your keys to steal their stuff back, no thanks. So where have you guys put your grounds? Sound like it could be another issue?
  16. Does anybody have subs in their Grand Prix? I can not figure out what is rattling in the back of the interior of my car. It sounds like the noise is coming from past the back seats but I don't want to tear anything apart if i don't know what's rattling. If anyone is familiar with this issue please give me some feedback. Thanks!
  17. A little back story, the car has been parked outside for about 3 months unmoved due to a transmission issue. For the past couple of days I've started driving it again to start the diagnosis process, and this morning the wipers did not work at all. They definitely worked when the car was parked, so I'll start with fuses/relays. If I have no luck there, does anyone have a wiring diagram they can post so I can check the wiring from the switch to the motor? The motor isn't making any noise at all (as far as I could tell on a quick glance this AM). If it's not fuses or wiring, I'm assuming the motor or multifunction switch that went bad. correct? Thanks in advance.
  18. My dads 98 Z34 started acting weird the other night so I thought I'd post the issue and see what you all think. First off car has 177k trans has 130k on it and put in about 10k ago. The other day on traffic it started slipping in overdrive. If you drive it in third it seemed to not have issues. Tonight on a test drive it was running fine; passing gear good shifting normal. 15 minutes into the drive the speedometer dropped from 50-0 stayed there for a tenth of a mile or so then jumped back to around 40 (I was slowing down at this point). When this happened the car started bucking and shifting real hard in all gears. Giving it half or more throttle would make it shift even harder. Was able to get the car home.. Fluid is clean full and not burnt or mis colored. The trans does seen to have a whining now that it's warmed up. Thoughts? Trans bad or possibly some solenoid.. Maybe the VSS? Let me know what you all think.. Thanks
  19. My engine has had a deep low rumble to it lately so I ordered a OBD2 cable on Amazon. I wrongly assumed it would have instructions and that I would be able to access their forum but that is not allowing me to register for some reason. Trying to wing it caused hardware issue with cable to program interface. So long story short, I grabbed another version of OBD2 scanner software and took a few minutes of readings. But now I am muddling around trying to find out what each reading is as well as what the norms are. Here is a csv of the short logging: Here is the actual log file using ScanXL Pro: Around the 1 min mark where RPM's drop from @1000 to @700 is when I shifted it into drive. I did not go anywhere, this is all sitting in the driveway. The engine as I said has a low rumble to it noted mainly when sitting at a light with car in gear and not moving, or same as in test. If anyone can take a look and point me to something I need to look into or is able to point me in the right direction in the service manual, it would be appreciated.
  20. Replacing the fuel module assembly with new Delphi HP10009. Verified that this is the correct part for this vehicle on the Delphi site. [TABLE=class: tborder, align: center] [TR] [TD=class: alt1]New and old module. Note the longer strainer on the new pump. When installed the strainer/pump pickup sits down in this compartment of the tank. When the old pump is in there the end of the strainer (long tail of strainer) comes right up against the wall but it lays flat and is not kinked. When the new pump is in there the end of the strainer (long tail of strainer) of course does not fit and ends up being kinked up. The instructions show the strainer laying flat along the bottom of the tank and to make sure the strainer does not interfere with the float arms range of motion. Instructions make no mention of being able to turn the strainer if it needs re-orientation. I tried to see if the strainer would turn on the bottom of the pump so it could maybe be oriented in a different position but it seems stuck on there pretty good. I didn't want to put too much force on it before checking to see if they are supposed to be moveable. Or maybe as a practical matter the strainer length is not an issue? Thanks[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: alt2][/TD] [TD=class: alt1, align: right][/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]
  21. l67ss

    signal issue

    Po could not get the brake lights to work in the taillights only in back glass so they just ran a wire from the third brake light to the taillights in the process they managed to cross some wires so the blinkers do not work i put in all new bulbs fuses multifunction switch and relay still nothing the hazards do work and if i hold the brake they will come on but i hav to manually flash them its like theres no power to the blinker switch help please
  22. I'm looking at a 1998 Buick Century, and I'm asking myself, "What's the deal with the right (passenger's side) rear brake line?" This mf'er branches off from the row of brake and fuel lines by the fuel filter, goes up above the submember, does three loop-da-loops, runs above the submember to the right side of the vehicle, does three more loop-da-loops before emerging from the submember and heading towards the right drum brake. I would imagine that all the curves are intended to keep the brake line from contacting the body or submember when the vehicle is on the road. I need to replace this brake line due to rust and the submember is also pretty rusty so I might as well replace that, too, so access should not be a problem. My question is do I need to duplicate all the bends in order to secure the fabricated brake line properly? Also, does anyone have any tips for getting an even flare from the bulk rolls of brake lines? I can flare the straight sections without issue, but the slight curve in the rolls always seems to give me uneven flares. I have about 20 ft left from a roll I bought for a previous brake line repair before I gave up and bought straight sections. Thanks!
  23. Hi All: I have a 1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme and Iam haveing issues with the Combination Switch, which I found out that what the part is called. It is the Turn Signal/Wipers/and Dimmer all in one. All functions are working fine except for the wiper function. After investigating the issue, I found out all the functions work, but when you turn the end of the switch to turn on the different speeds of the wipers, the wipers don't work, "unless" I take my hand and very gently apply just a very small amount of pressure downward on the switch. Now I don't have to pull down to the point that the left turn signal comes on, but with just slight pressure downward on the switch, the wipers will then work properly. My question is does anyone here have a compatible switch, and also, since its just the one function of the wipers that are causeing the issue, can that particular issue be repaired somehow without changing out the entire switch? From what I understand, the steering wheel has to be pulled in order to replace it. The part plus the labor Iam afraiod is going to be expensive especially on a fixed income of Disability. I also noticed that there is a wireng harness that the switch plugs into in the steering columb, and I wigg;ed the several wires that go to the plug that plgs into the stering columb, and when I did that the wipers came on and off as I wiggled the wires. So that sort of makes me wonder if the issue is one of those little wires that make up that wireing harness has become loose and wondered if that could be repaired insead of replacing the entire switch. If it were up to me and I knew how, I would just mount a little toggle switch somewhere that would turn the wipers on and off and not worry about the different wiper speeds. I don't know if that cou;d be done or not. Everything else on the switch operates the other functions fine. What do some of you think I need to do? One thing about it, I surely need windshild wipers. One good thing is though, I had just had the car in for its annual safety inspection, and eveidently they worked fine then because everything passed. I didn't notice the probl;em until a ay or two later when it began to rain. I would greatly apreciate any advice as what I need to do here. Thanks so much. In case you want to know why my user name is onelegger 51 is Iam an amputee on the left side just below the knee.
  24. Hi, i'm getting the P0742 code and it has all the general symptoms of a bad solenoid. i just want to make sure its no a wireing issue before i start tearing this apart since it seems to be a huge job. Anyone know what pin on the wiring harness that goes into the transmission is the TCC? best way to check to make sure its not a wire cut? resistance or ohms ? any help would be great. I was thinking checking the actual pins on the round harness that goes into the transmission.
  25. A coworker of mine has an issue with his abs as well as his traction and brake light intermittently going on and off. i told him it could be a ABS sensor issue. He takes it to a garage and they said it was his front left wheel sensor that was bad. They replace the sensor and the lights are still go on and off. What else could it be? The garage said the abs module could be causing it, but i think it might be the wiring or mabye even the abs ring but I'm not sure. Any input would be great.
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