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Found 960 results

  1. [video=youtube;UsMlsDgMXJM] I have a bad rattling sound coming from the driver side of my car somewhere. Anyone else have this issue? The rocker panel trim cover seems more loose on this side than the passenger side. It's driving me nuts and I can't figure out exactly what's causing it.
  2. When I turn on the A/C or the heat I can hear the blower turning on (quite loudly if it's on 3 or 4) but no air comes out of the vents. If I put my hand near defroster vent it feels slightly cold or hot depending on the setting but no air coming out. Any ideas on how to fix the issue? Thanks.
  3. I have a 91 GTP 5 speed that has a couple of problems. First is that it dies if the rpms are somewhat high and I suddenly press the clutch. It basically goes from whatever rpms it was on to 0 rpms and dies. The second one is that once it dies after 2 or 3 times the engine is pretty slow cranking up and will eventually not start. Looks and sound like if the battery was dying. I have replaced the battery and starter, checked the alternator and it shows okay. What could be the problem? I'm hoping that someone here has had the same issues
  4. Basics- 96 Lumina 109k, 3100. Car has all new fuel lines, AC Delco fuel pump, fuel pump relay, new gas tank and new filler neck. I intermittently get this P1441 code when the car is cold and driven past 20 mph. It comes and goes as it pleases. I've done some research online but I'm not sure where to go in terms of diagnosis. Also- unsure if this is related. I am having a hard start issue once the car is up to operating temperature. When the car is cold, I have no issue at all. Would like to straighten this out if possible. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks.
  5. Ok, so a quick question on voltage regulation. I suspect I know the answer, but if anyone can confirm I'd appreciate it. I've been having an issue for a bit with voltages. when cool / cold out, the voltage shoots up to 15-15.5+ (confirmed on a DVM). Now that it's been hot lately, I've been running the A/C and that causes voltages to run 12.5-13 after just 10 minutes of driving. So my question is what performs the voltage regulation; is that internal to the alternator, or is that done by the ECM? I'm hoping ECM, but I'm thinking it's the alternator...
  6. Hey, W family. 1st & foremost...can't wait for the W-Body Nationals this year! 2ndly, my 92 3.1 is sputtering, sometimes to the point of stalling abruptly and spontaneously when hot. Some days it's perfect. Some days, it'll want to leave you stranded. My 1st thought was the new pos Airtex fuel pump is failing, because it has been whining loudly like a vacuum cleaner when hot. Now, I'm thinking FPR. It's showing 43 PSI w/key on, 37 at idle. When I pull the vacuum line to the FPR, 43 PSI again. Am I on the right track here to replace the FPR? Thanks!
  7. Hello all, I am wondering if anyone can direct me to where the rear power window fuse/relays are? I knew that the passenger side rear windows motor was probably on its way out (it was going up and down slowly), the drivers side rear window operated very smoothly...now all of a sudden neither window will go down no matter if I push the main controls near the drivers seat or the controls for each window in the backseat...I'm not sure what the issue could be...Iocated the fuse panel (inside the glove box) and also both fuse panels underneath the hood, however, I am not seeing anything in regards to the rear power windows. Is there any other place that there may be a fuse box located? When I push the buttons from the drivers seat all I seem to hear is a "clicking" sound and that's it...I'm sure that both motors couldn't have just gone out at the same time without warning...am I missing something? Thanks in advance. Trey
  8. I looked for the post I made asking for help on this issue ,but cannot find. The '95 Cutty would 'cam' at start up, (idle would bounce up to 3000+ and down low and would stall). Cold made this worse. Once engine warmed up problem went away. My mech found a vaccuum leak under the intake/plenum. I did not see the part, it was a special grommet under the top of the motor. It took days for the part to come in (rare?) My mech considers the 3.4 a rare engine, I don't. So not sure if the grommet fixed the problem or if taking it apart and putting it back together fixed it. It is fixed thankfully. Almost $600 though... Hope this helps someone else.
  9. I came across an issue recently which has left me with some questions. My friend has a 2001 Impala 3800. We replaced the motor when he got it and replaced many gaskets including from the LIM up. This was a handful of years ago and used plastic gaskets. I later did another LIM gasket job on a 97 LeSabre when my mother bought the car, knowing of the gasket issues and at that time used the Fel-Pro metal gasket and using Haynes manual torque specs. Fast forward to today when my friend tore apart the intakes on the Impala to find trouble with the LIM itself. After sitting for ~2 years, the car had even more problems than when it was parked. The LIM gaskets were plastic on the outside with whatever synthetic rubber gasket in the middle and more plastic in the middle. This plastic swells and bows inward, pulling the gasket material with it. I guess from the car sitting so long, the nasty old coolant eroded the LIM around one of the coolant ports and had to be replaced because it would never seal again. Today at the junkyard while grabbing an injector the car had aluminum LIM gaskets which turned out to be the Delco's. Now these Delco gaskets have the same fatal flaw as the other gaskets! They have plastic on the inside around the ports that showed swelling around the coolant ports. It has been so long since I did the Fel-Pro's on the LeSabre that I don't remember it having plastic inside, and I can't really tell by pics, it just looks all black. So here is the burning question - Is there a change in torque spec for the metal gaskets? I know on the 3500 LX9 it had little metal inserts around the bolt holes to avoid over torquing, but I really don't remember if they changed the torque spec there either. The car we unbolted at the junkyard had bolts on fairly tight (no thread locker), whereas all of the other LIM jobs I have done had many bolts roughly finger tight (if that). I wasn't sure if maybe there was a revision to the torque specs along with the new gasket design. I see there is a TSB 634708 revised lower intake manifold installation. However, I only see the heading description and everywhere I look I don't see the details. I have searched around a bit trying to find information, but everyone is using the same torque, many quoting the same Haynes manual as I used when fixing the LeSabre. Without knowing the details of the TSB, I can't be certain that this isn't going to be happening again. I would rather get both these cars squared away now with the right gaskets and torque specs and not have to deal with coolant getting into these engines. If anyone has access to the TSB and can tell me what it says, if anything, about the torque specs, then it would be greatly appreciated.
  10. It happens a couple minutes after starting, if I go in reverse or drive sometimes it'll stall out with out my foot on the gas. I changed plugs, wires, map sensor egr valve gasket, cleaned throttle body iac and egr, fuel pressure was normal, cant find vacuum leaks. Does anybody have an idea or have had this problem before? map sensor reads bad but I replaced it and tested the new one, code 33 is coming up, I used a multi meter at the plug and its getting 5 volts. Here's a video.
  11. Made a thread about engine issues, but sourced an engine. Topic is no longer needed anymore.
  12. Hello everyone, I am having a very small coolant leak from the bypass pipe that runs from under the throttle body to the top of the water pump housing. It is leaking from the connection where the heat hose assembly connects to it just above the water pump housing. I have had to replace the gasket that connects this pipe to the water pump housing before and it was no issue. I was wondering if anyone has any information of where I can find this pipe. I have look all over, and have been unsuccessful. Its for a 89 Grand Prix with the 2.8L.
  13. 1997 Olds Cutlass Supreme 2 door. So, I open my passenger side door and the fuse panel on the dashboard is exposed, the piece of cardboard that have been glued on, fell off. Not my doing, but the previous owners. I discover the following fuse/wire issue. Does anyone have any idea why someone would do this? My gut is telling me this isn't safe, but I'm worried that if I disconnect it, my car won't start or something catastrophic will happen. Those wires are hooked into the only 25amp fuses on that particular panel. The wires run down into the dash and I can't see where they go from there. Thanks in advance for any information/suggestions/guesses.
  14. 1. The biggest issue is that occasionally it just won't start. It will act like it's going to turn over, then it won't, or it will start, runs the rpm's really low and die. If I sit for about 45 minutes, it will just start out of the blue. The mechanic says he thinks it's the fuel pump, but he can't get it to repeat the issue anytime he has it in the shop. I have found if I keep the gas tank over 1/2 full it doesn't do it. 2. Today I had a 2nd key made for the car. I went to make sure it worked, it wouldn't start the car. (I've never had this problem with a store made key.} I started the car with my factory key, it started right up. I shut it off, used the store made key & it started right up but the Security Light came on & stayed on the entire way home. About 2 miles. When I got home I shut it off, turned it right back on with the store made key, Security Light still on. Not even 10 minutes later my daughter went to leave with the store bought key & it wouldn't work. Has anyone ever had this happen? I have never seen the Security Light come on, let alone stay on, nor had a store made key not work. Thank you in advance for any advice you can give me. Anyone know the best way to clean your headlight covers? Mine are getting pretty nasty & making it hard to see at night. Thanks again, Jennie.
  15. Hey guys im having a issue with the car, car just died taking off from the gas station and i got no spark. I got a crankshaft Sensor and im trying to figure out where it is but we checked fuses and i noticed a fuse in spot 10 which is 15 AMP IGN ( Under hood fuse box) keeps blowing everytime i go to crank after i replaced it. Any ideas on what it could be besides possible bad wiring? I got no idea what the fuse is tied to.
  16. I know much has been posted on the topic, but I just wanted to mention that I am one who has ran through the gamut of troubleshooting steps for correcting the multiple misfiring issue. Mine ended up being the ICM. Replaced it with the slightly cheaper Valucraft ICM, she ran like new. Less than a year later, the wonderful P0300 misfiring came back. Had it start happening in the middle of my trip home from work. Parked it, let it sit overnight. Next day, problem was fine until I drove it for approx. 15 minutes, then it was back. It did this two more times before it finally became a permanent issue. I decided to swap out the ICM FIRST this time, and its back to running like new now. Just wanted to share this so that others know: 1. An ICM can fail again within a year or less of being replaced. 2. Especially if you go w/ the cheaper Valuecraft ICM I bought the cheaper one again (much to my chagrin) as at the time I was only 90% sure it was the problem. If you ever get in this boat, spend the extra $30 and get the Duralast (or AC Delco) one. Regards
  17. I honestly can't tell if the Passkey 2 system in my 1998 Monte Carlo is bad and in a bypass mode if that is even possible. Or if it has been physically bypassed at a certain time in the car's life. When I pulled the cluster out to reinstall the Chg Oil Soon bulb, I noticed the security bulb had been pulled, so I swapped a bulb into its socket, and when the car is on and started, it just stays lit. Never had any issue with it starting at all. I would think if it was bypassed, the light wouldn't be on at all since the system would just be tricked into thinking the proper key WAS in the ignition. But also confused because if it was just a fault in the system, it usually strands people, and the car is unusable until repaired, or bypassed. Unless there is a rare fault that happens where it just disables the security and allows the car to start regardless if the resistance on the key pellet is correct. I only ask this as I bought 2 keys off ebay, seller says not to go off Ohm readings to figure out the key number, but that is what I did anyway, since the multimeter reading perfectly matched the design resistance of a particular numbered key. But if the system is faulty, or bypassed then reguardless of what key number I ordered, they should all work.
  18. Hey, I've got a '91 GTP 3.4 with 220k on it. It has an intermittent lifter tick when hot. All of the lifters clatter for the first 1/2 second before quieting down during a cold start, which is quite common from what I've read (had a 95 Z34 which did the same thing). After 15-20 miles of highway driving, I hear a lifter ticking (on the front band it sounds like) after I slow down and then engine is idling. It will quiet down and then get louder as I drive. If I allow the engine to cool for a bit, it gets over this problem. Any of you guys have this problem? I put a new set of Victor Reinz lifters in this thing to fix this issue, but it didn't change it much. I'm running syn. 10-30. Oil pressure is well within the acceptable range, according to the service manual. Do the oil temperatures get particularly high in this engine?
  19. Hey everybody, 94 cutlass supreme 3.4. When I get on the gas it accelerates fine up until about 5500 RPMs. At this point regardless of what gear it's in the car stops gaining power, engine gets noticeably louder, and the check engine light comes on. Nothing else seems to be affected and the car still drives fine besides this issue. After I have turned the car off and back on the check engine light goes away. Any ideas where my top end power is going?
  20. For a while now i have had a surging problem with my grand prix (usually around 17-2400 rpms while under load like going up a hill) and i just chose to ignore it. Until it started to stall out randomly the other night. So far i have change the Coil packs, ignition module, crank position sensor, camshaft position sensor and i am still having the same issues. I finally got a better scan tool and was able to read a Camshaft position sensor fault and while watching the live data stream i noticed the RPMs on the sensor would jump all over the place while at a consistent rpm. Even after i changed the sensor the same problem remained. So I am starting to think it might be the wiring from the Camshaft sensor to the PCM. Was wondering if anyone else had any other ideas? thank you for your time.
  21. I have a 2005 Grand Prix with a N/A 3.8L and the fans aren't turning on? What could be the issue? How can I fix this?
  22. The Regal won't start by turning the key. At first it was random and intermittent, now nothing at all. I got under the car and narrowed it down by bridging the positive feed on the solenoid. First to the starter motor feed and the starter motor spun but no flywheel engagement. Then to the smaller ignition signal terminal. When I did that the solenoid engaged and the starter motor spun, starting the engine. So the starter motor works. With the car on and running I bumped the ignition to the start position and did not hear the starter engage. So, my assumption would be the ignition cylinder. Main reason for that is, I am able to remove the key from the ignition while in the run position, with the car on. I also noted that the "Security" light illuminates and the car continues to run. It's done that "no key trick" for a while so would it just now be causing the no start issue?? Is there anything else that could be causing my problem?
  23. Hello W body family. 92 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, 3.1L. 161,123 miles >The column shift only sometimes activates my backup lights. I found that tapping, wiggling or holding the column shift lever activates them... Do you know what I need to do to fix this? Switch in column? or on trans? Thanks. Joe.
  24. Hello W body family. 92 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, 3.1L. 161,123 miles The column shift only sometimes activates my backup lights. I found that tapping, wiggling or holding the shift lever slightly passed its seat will activate them. Issue within the last few weeks. Switch in column? or on trans? Thanks. Joe.
  25. I'll try to keep it short 'n sweet. 06 Grand Prix, Leaking Gas . Location: left, passenger side, under the car . Where the Steel fuel line joins (via a black connected), it seems to be dripping from the the black connector. The black connector seems to come down from the gas tank area. Question: Can another connector be purchased or can I somehow bridge it together. It's my work car, dosent have to be O.E.M., just needs to run w/o blowing up. Any help appreciated. Thanks. 😕
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