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Found 877 results

  1. There is a sticky thread for part numbers. Anyone interested in compiling a list of stuff that is no longer available? Stumbled onto this idea when searching for a windshield wiper motor cover--the plastic housing over the wiper motor, with a circuit board inside. This provides the "Pulse" function for the wiper motor for my '92 Lumina with pulse wipers. Not available from GM, I can't find an aftermarket replacement. Treasure-yard Only, so far as I can tell. "Rebuilt" wiper motors are readily-available, but they seem to ship WITHOUT the cover and circuit board. I guess you're expected to transfer the cover from the original motor to the rebuilt one--but if your original is toast, you're screwed. Symptom, in my case, is that there is no power to the windshield washer pump. Wipers work just fine, but no fluid spray. Appears that one of the two electronic timers on the circuit board is defective; although there's some possibility it's a toasted capacitor or resistor on the board. The wiper motor cover (and circuit board) are a pass-through for the washer motor power which uses the circuit board for the timer function.
  2. For those of you that have a Getrag 284/282 and want to get rid of that accumulator between the master cylinder and slave cylinder, well first of all good choice! This will improve clutch pedal feel. It might make the pedal a little stiffer, but shouldnt be by much. Heres what youll need, and what youll need to do. First you need a 282/284 master and slave cylinder. I get them from roack auto on a wholesale closeout. They are very cheap and have name brands. These come with everything you need to install them. Youll need these fittings for the slave and master cylinders: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640281/ Heres the SS braided line that I used. NOTE: you can use a straigh line instead of one with a 90*. I just liked how this fit better than the straight line. Length is 20" which is more than enough room. I used an 18" hose, and its close. Not very much slack to move the line around. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220314/overview/ Now that you have all the parts, heres how to put them together. I HIGHLY recommend wearing some type of glove, as working with brake fluid sucks, and its nasty stuff. Step 1 - Remove pin from slave cylinder which holds the hose in place. Remove the accumulator from the salve cylinder. Be sure to keep the salve cylinder vertial at all times to avoid any brake fluid from spilling out. Step 2 - Insert one of the fittings into the slave clinder. Insert supplied pin, and use cotter pin for extra insurance. If cotter pin is too long, cut to decent length. Step 3 - Install SS hose on the fitting. The 90* end of the hose will be installed on the slave cylinder. This will come clear later as you install it in the car. Remember, the whole time your doing this, keep slave cylinder vertical as to not spill brake fluid. Make sure fitting is TIGHT. Step 4 - Time to work with master cylinder. Keep master cylinder vertical at all times while working as to not spill brake fluid. Remove pin holding the clutch line into the master cylinder. Step 5 - Install the other fitting into the master cylinder. Insert supplied pin, and use cotter pin for extra insurance. If cotter pin is too long, cut to decent length. Step 6 - Install SS hose to the master cylinder. Make sure fitting is TIGHT. Now you have your custom SS braided hydrualic assembly! Now comes the best part, bleeding! ( insert sarcasm ) This is how Ive always bled the 284 hydrualics, and have had very good results by doing it this way. Since you have made your hydrualic assembly, you now have air in the SS hose. Heres how to get rid of that air. You will need to set this up EXACTLY like the following: Step 1 - Have the reservoir as the highest point in the system. Then the master cylinder. SS hose is to be straight down, with no low or horizontal spots, and the slave cylinder at the bottom. Basically if you help the clutch hydrualics in the air by the reservoir, thats what it needs to look like while you are bleeding it. Step 2 - Unclip the pushrod in the slave cylinder, and allow it to extend completely. Step 3 - Heres where all the work is involved. Having the system as told in Step 1, push down on the slave cylinder to retract the pushrod. Once you have done that, allow the pushrod to extend completely. While doing this, watch the reservoir, and youll be able to see all the air bubbles coming up. Repeat this process untill you no longer see air coming up. Once you have bled your hydrualic system, install in the car, and enjoy your new, better pedal feel! ***NOTE*** This is how I did mine. I have bled the hydrualics several times like this, sometimes I do this for 5 minutes, and other times for 30+ minutes. Just depends on how much air is in the system.
  3. The reason that I axe is that I just bought and installed one of these about Novembuary 25th, and since that time my car's been down for a period of time and we've had good weather as well. Well the stupid F-F-F-U-U-U- thing is broken again. I'm so tempted to rip the new (old) one out and throw it through the window of Part Source. So I'm not really interested in building another Chinese piece of S*** so I have Jamie's old one from his '95 can I just put that in AJAM??? It's not the cost of the part, it's just having to do it again and again, I can't really hear it trying to work and I did try doucing the jets with hot water without any luck. Oh BTW - I'm just pissed in general. There's no need for this. Also why can't GM join the 21st century and use the hood-mounted types they can use heat from the hood to warm up so they don't freeze as much??
  4. I'm 98% sure I'm leaking trans fluid near the radiator. There are two rubber lines that connect near the radiator. Is this for the trans cooler? A view from the top. Any one deal with this before? I just noticed this leaking yesterday. It hasn't been leaking for long.
  5. '94 GP, 3100 engine. Idles fine. When driving, doesn't have the 'get up and go' that it used to.. kinda slugs along when you hit the gas and wanna go somewhere. I'm getting really stupidly bad gas milage.. like 15 mpg highway.. if even that. Transmission fluid/filter changed, new plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, ignition coil, fuel injectors (professionally) cleaned. What the heck could this be?! I was thinking oxygen sensor needs to be changed. Also, what happens when a fuel injector stops functioning?
  6. So oddly enough 1 year ago my return line melted and I lost steering, fried the pulley and now the pressure line just went. I made the drive home before I lost all fluid thankfully, by the time I got it i the garage it was jet streaming from the metal fitted area and the hose. I wondering how bad of a job this may be? I cant find it in my Haynes manual not even sure where the line leads exactly.
  7. I have a 91 3.1 lumina with a 4t60 trans. Here lately ive got a issue with the trans shifting back to first gear. Fluid and filter have been changed. Im the second owner it has 140k on it. If i shift to neutral then drive or pull it into first then it goes. Otherwise it wont go back. It seems as if its in neutral. Also the vss is causing issues w the speedometer. It causes a ten mph sway in the needle. Any help would be great thanks
  8. After digging my car out from a snowstorm Sunday, I tried turning on the wipers to get the last bit of snow off the windshield.. the wipers would only come on when the switch was on "high." Even when on "mist," or when I try using the washer fluid, they don't work.. the washer fluid does come out when I turn it on though. Also, they don't always park properly.. They usually stop wherever they are when I move the switch out of high. If its at or near the bottom of the windshield, then they will "park" properly. Any ideas what could be causing this? Could it just be the multifunction switch, or could it be something simple/cheaper? Travis
  9. i have a 1994 covertible. my issue is the top wont fully go up and its about two inchs from the windshield. what could be causeing this? already checked the fluid in the pump recharged the battery. could it be a bad pump, where the pump isnt pushing the top the last couple of inchs?
  10. Hey guys, I bought a '95 Olds Cutalss Supreme 3.1 a month ago with 117k on it. The reverse reactor shell was exploded in the transmission so I pulled it out and had it overhauled. After installing the rebuilt trans, I noticed that it downshifted from overdrive on occasion. I took it on a 350 mile trip. About 100 miles into the trip it downshifted out of OD. I stopped, shut it off and cranked it back up. Trans went back into OD. I drove another 75 miles or so before the same thing happened. I pulled over, shut it off and cranked it back up. It went back into OD no problem for about 60 miles or so before downshifting again. No SES light on. Fluid looks fine. I have inspected all connections. Trans works great otherwise. Has anyone else encountered this issue? Thanks, Andy
  11. Hey Folks, I took the GTP on a 360 mile round trip yesterday. The car didn't let me down, but it did break. I think. My power steering pump is possibly dying, and I'd like the consensus here. It was apparently replaced about five years ago, but they aren't sure if it was a salvage special or new/remanufactured/aftermarket part. As long as I am putting power to the tires (not a lot by any means - just not simply "coasting" IE when backing out or turning or idling in drive in a parking lot) it functions fine, but with no power to the wheels whatsoever, it is completely locked up. It grinds and makes all kinds of icky racket. A couple of months ago, I did note a whining coming from it. I actually had to go to O'Reilly to have help locating the damn thing, I wanted to check the fluid but had NO IDEA where it was. Under the alternator (which of course I replaced - I felt real dumb). It was empty, and the guy at O'Reilly filled it for me. The noise went away - but I didn't think anything about bleeding it (leaving it open and cranking the wheels etc). I had to pull off the highway to check the fluid, and it was full.. as in all the way to the filler-neck full. You guys think my power steering pump is shot, or do I just need to drain some of this fluid out?
  12. My wife left her keys in overnight with ign on. I put battery on charge at 4:00 am and within 5 minutes she was off to work. She called later and said the blinkers didn't work. (Told her to check the fluid:D) Tonight I checked fuses, all good. Swapped the flasher and no luck. The hazards AND blinkers are dead. What might cause this when the battery gets drained? I fully charged the battery tonight while isolated and no luck. Thanks
  13. I will not, cannot, vow not to change my tranny fluid, being that it's never been changed. Why - I've been told and have known for many years that doing so (when it hasn't been changed regularly) is a NONO. I was listening to Ron Ananian ("the Car Doctor") on the radio some time ago and his rationale for trannys FREQUENTLY FAILING subsequent to changing old tranny fluid is that new tranny fluid is very detergent, meaning it'll dissolve built up varnish on the walls of the tranny, which contains dirt and other gunk, which gets mixed up w/the new tranny fluid, and scrubs down everything inside the transmission. Sounds credible to me. But regardless I have known of many cases where people have had trannys fail after the (old) fluid has been changed. So I just can't do it. But...It would be nice if there was an alternative. If you could say change it (some alternative!), drive it for some (short) interval, then change it again? I have a bottle of Duralube Advanced Tranny Treatment kicking around, but I'm afraid to even add that, don't even know what the benefit is supposed to be. Even w/o the particulates stuck to the walls of the tranny, I'm still thinking the detergent factor is enough to loosen crud or whatever and cause friction plates to slip and whatnot. So in other words I just need help w/this dilemma. Or maybe just a hug
  14. Gunboat

    4t60e update

    Ok all,here is an update on what I got...I have a '92 lumina Z34,tranny,had 167K on it,3rd gear was slipping bad,then,it refused to shift out of first,so,had a LOT of fillings in the fluid and it was burnt,when I got it,the guy I bought it from had forgotten to put a vaccume back on and the right rear rotor was shot,so I got a used tranny from the J/Y,it was out of a '92 Gran Prix,they said it had 53K on it,I believe it...NOW it will smoke the tires!I replaced both ball joints,and tie rod ends,drives like a champ anyways,here are some pics of the pull and the install..pic intensive...I uploaded the pics a little backasswards,but ya'll get the idea..
  15. On my 99 Regal I have acquired a noise at idle. It's hard to describe, so I'll describe what I've done thus far in terms of diagnosing. First off, car runs/shifts perfectly fine. RPM's are good, and it is not acting weird. No SES, no loss of power. It is an intermittent noise when warm. It sounds like a bad tensioner/bad pulley rattling around. It's really loud underneath the car, but it seems to be echoing off of everything and I can't pin point it further. The noise does not change with RPM's either. One thing I do notice, if you get back in the car after it makes the noise, put in gear and move back and forth, the noise will subside. Sometimes it will come back, sometimes it wont. This leads me to thinking I have some sort of a transmission issue. That being the case, checked the fluid. It's clean and smells normal. Thoughts?? I'm stumped and with a baby on the way, this may get parked and I'll deal with it/sell in the spring depending on what the wife lets me do. Any input is appreciated. I really don't want to take it to a shop. TIA:)
  16. Okay so heres my problem. 00 GTP is the car im talking about on this one. After the car warms up, whether in 3rd gear, or 4th gear, light pedal, low to moderate load on the motor in lock up, the torque converter seems to dance in and out of lockup like its going out of style. Now, i had a similar problem with my 93 Lumina earlier on this year, but the stop light switch doesnt seem to be the issue here. Now, i remember on the 4T60E there was a lock solenoid that i could have replaced on the side of the trans. On this 4T65EHD, i dont see that option. Now, heres what im asking. Car has 204k miles on the drivetrain, fluid is good, pink and not burnt, also full. Is there something really wrong with my TC or is there a switch that has gone bad i can replace? I need help with this asap. Its my daily and i dont have my Lumina as this point in time, so i can tear this one down. Holds every gear just fine, no slipping. Just light to moderate load (usually up hill) while in lock up, and it dances all over the place like the motor has a misfire. Also, doesnt seem to to it till the motor is around 2000-2500 in lock up.
  17. Hi, here I´m again. I´m trying to cut off all the noises in my cutlass because they make me crazy!!! Recently I performed a major advance in quietness (I´ll post photos of what I hace to do) but now I hear other noises!!!! And now I think there´s something wrong with the hydraulic pump of the power steering. Everytime I make a turn I hear a continuos "tuuuuuummm" noise. I check the pump and the fluid level is ok. Could it be air in the system?
  18. this thing..... is angering me. so now based on sound/vibration alone, i have no idea which side did it, but one of the wheel bearings is going. the problem is that it's intermittent and it hasn't happened again for ~400 miles now. headed from camden to manistee last weekend, about a 250 mile trip one way, about 100 miles in at 70MPH, i get this awful single prop plane sound coming out of the car, sounded like the rear, i had assumed the driver's side due to the following 2 days it had sat soaked in brake fluid due to a failed wheel cylinder. anyways, awful plane noise quickly included the world's most overpowered vibrator for a good 30 miles, then the sound cleared up for a little while, then came back, cleared up again, happened pretty much all the way up to manistee. while in manistee, same issue, but no vibration, probably due to the significantly lower speeds of being in-town. a little while after all of the noise started, the car was VERY sensitive to steering input. quite a few times i changed lanes and swung around with some unintended aggressiveness. while fun, it wasn't very reassuring. anyways, car sat for a few hours for a wedding, come back out to go home, made noise for a little while in town and getting back on the highway, but no vibration that i can recall. while on the highway, only a few times did it actually start making it's noise again, no vibration. usually happened after a transition in road surface. got home without incident. and now today, went to town and back, no noise or vibration at all.... so what do i do now? i assume i can lift the rear and attempt to move the wheels around to see how much play is present? i assume pretty much anything that is detectable by eye means it's bad. if i can't see movement on the rear.... testing the front shouldn't be that bad since i have ~5000 mile balljoints up there, so i shouldn't have to worry about those giving me a false impression either. tl;dr: why does this car have to be such a PITA?
  19. So I recently bought a 1997 bonneville ssei with 140,000 miles. I know it's not a w body but it has the same engine and I like this forum better than the bonneville one. Anyway I just bought it and it runs great but I would still like to do a full tune up just so I know when everything was done. My plan as of right now is spark plugs-ngk tr55 copper plug wires-msd coils-msd oil-Mobil one full synthetic oil filter-Mobil one fuel filter trans fluid and filter O2 sensor supercharger oil thats all I can think of for right now, is this a good list? Is there stuff I'm missing? Where would be a good place to find the MSD parts? In the some what near future I plan on dropping to a 3.4 pulley, so if there are supporting mods for that I should do now? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated, thank you
  20. 00 GTP Trans won't shift from first. First and reverse work fine, no slippage. Trans/fluid looks good and does not smell burnt. Fluid level is correct. Figure it's going to need a trans as I've check connections, ohm'd the solenoids and have no codes whatsoever. Just thought I'd toss this out there for maybe some ideas or suggestions on something I may have missed. Thanks for any input.
  21. Hello Guys, New here and figured i'd post this after searching with no results. I have a 1998 Buick Regal GS. For as long as I can remember I've had a shifting problem where the car holds 2nd or 3rd gear until about 40mph. The RPMs are usually running at 2500 at this point. I've changed the fluid and filter so I am sure its not low. When I changed the fluid there were no shavings or anything bad and the fluid looked good. Is this normal for the transmission to be doing this or is there an issue I can fix? Thanks for the help, Adam
  22. Hello i have a 2000 dodge neon 2.0 liter SOHC, recently ive been having problems it seems to shift ok but when u start to slow down and get below 35 mph it want to shudder and almost stall, so ive been placing it in neutral when i need to slow down but i have been tryin not to drive it because i dont want to make bad matters worse, to me it feels like when your driving a manual and u leave it in gear and slow down without depressing the clutch, and when you get to a stop and try to go again the rpms go up but the car doesnt move that fast then it switchs gear and jumps foward, and does the same thing, i have already changed the filter and fluid, and now i was thinking the next step is the ttc solenoid (Lock up solenoid), i also have been hearing a weird noise coming from the tranny area, could this be from a bad solenoid, or what are your thoughts?
  23. Recently when I start my car and put the gearshift in R position or D it seems that I´m in N position because the car doesn´t move. If this happens (because it doesn´t happen every time) I try another time changing gears and the car moves. I checked the automatic fluid because there´s a leakage within the gasket but it´s above the level, could this be the problem?. There´s a way to check the level? What I do is turn on the car and put all the gears then I turn of the car and check the level. Thanks!!!
  24. I have an Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 94 with and LQ1. Theres a leakage in some hose or the radiator because the radiator fluid keeps going down every time I use the car. It´s not a lot of fluid but everytime I check it it´s below the limit. The problem is that I can´t find where the leakage is!!! Somebody told me that it could be somewhere the water would evaporate before reaching the floor. What can I do to spot the problem?
  25. I have brought this up before,was hoping that I can get some more feed back on this.I have changed the fluid,filter,modulator valve.My problem is this: first to second no problem,second to third it either slips or it doesn't,if i get on it,it shifts just fine,but if I drive it "normally" it wants to slip...what are the possible problems,I have been told that it could be broken accumilator springs...I don't want to tear it apart and find that that is the problem and not have them to put back in,I plan in putting in the mod (in the FAQ') section.what else could possibly cause it to do this? any and all suggestions are welcome...I have all 3 service books on the car,but you know how they can be when it comes to problems..one thing that I would REALLY like to know,is where can I buy the springs? would rather have them and not need them to not needing them at all...know any good places to but them from? Thank in advance.
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