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Found 877 results

  1. [TABLE=width: 100%] [TR] [TD=class: row1, bgcolor: #485165]My rack is starting to leak, nothing major just wet in certain places. No drips or apparent loss of fluid either. I'm thinking about replacing it, but not sure if I should go after market with a lifetime warranty or get it from the dealer.[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [/TR] [/TABLE]
  2. Well, just a few minutes ago, my brother and I arrived home. I had just picked him up from work. I turned to back into the parking area across the street from my house. I put the car in reverse and began turning back in the other direction to straighten the car out. The steering wheel got very stiff, it felt as if I lost all power assist. The steering didn't act up before this. It made no moaning or grinding noises when this happened. I get the car parked and pop the hood. Reservoir is full, there is no puddle underneath the path of the car. I start it back up and turn the wheel back and fourth while my brother watches the steering pump. Wheel is equally stiff the whole time. He said the pulley is turning and there's no fluid shooting out. So does anyone know what the issue might be? The only problem I've had with the steering previously was in the winter, the pump moaned and squealed like a banshee until it warmed up. It never was abnormally stiff or losing any fluid whatsoever. Not long before it got cold, I drained the fluid out of the reservoir and replaced it with Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak, hoping that its conditioning properties would prevent any headaches in the near future.
  3. I know I'm probably tiring you folks...but you've been such a help alreay, and I've now resolved almost all the issues my "95 convertible had when I bought it, and it's only been two weeks! Here's the issue...since fixing the Quad Driver module fault this weekend, I'm down to a single DTC showing on my scantool. The car runs great while cool, no codes at all, but a some point, once the car gets warm, the TCC is no longer locked, and the transmission shifts out of overdrive into 3rd gear. That's where things stay. At that point, the scantool shows a P0740 (TCC error), the "Service Engine Soon" light never goes on. I thought at first this could be an issue of the transmission going into "hot mode", but according to the factory service manual, this occurs at temps above 266 degrees. Warmest the scantool has shown the transmission fluid so far is 211 degrees. So far, I've not found any wiring issues...any suggestions?
  4. I needed a new battery for a 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass with the 3.4 L engine. the "book" called for a group size 78 battery. The battery is 10 3/16" long, and fits in the tray, but there doesn't seem to be enough room for the windshield washer fluid container, which fits over the battery. I cannot seem to wedge the washer fluid container into position. The previous owner had a smaller battery in the car, probably a group 75, which is 9 1/16" long, and I was able to get the washer fluid container in the car with no problems using that battery. Was I spoiled by the smaller battery, and gave up to easily when the washer fluid tank wouldn't go back in place with the bigger battery? Are you supposed to "work the washer container" a bit to get it in place, or is a group size 78 battery too big for this space?
  5. So the title pretty much says it, the fluid is coming from the brake piston and is all over the pad and the disc. I always seem to have leaky rear brakes regardless of the brand of re-manufactured or new (when they where available) parts. is there something better i am just missing? and can the tool that is used for re setting the ebrake be rented at a parts store? thanks
  6. I literally just need a few small parts to have 100% everything I need to do August's 5 speed swap. I need: clutch fluid reservoir, preferable with hose, but I can take care of that. Rubber grommets to go on the firewall plus the metal retaining ring, this is for 282. the grommets for a 284 are probably not compatible due to the larger shift and select cable sizes. I'll have to 100% verify that. 284 retaining ring is the same part. let me know how much shipped to 16001 Thanks -Chris
  7. Recently had multiple problems with windshield wipers and washer motor on 1992 Lumina Euro 3.4. I think this should apply to all '94--older W bodies, though. Last fall, the windshield washers quit squirting fluid. I ignored it. Figured the washer fluid was empty, or frozen, and "I'll fix it later". Sometime in January, the wipers quit working. OK, that got my attention. Family matters kept me from fixing the problem--too busy flying back and forth to California to work on the car. Car is now fixed, photos re-sized and hosted, etc. Time for the write-up. Fixed wipers first. Wiring was intermittent at the wiper switch. Remove under-dash panels, remove steering wheel, remove "turn signal" stalk, remove "Hazard Flasher" button, remove horn contacts, pop three screws. Worst part is routing the wire harness under the steering column, and even that isn't too bad. Result: Wipers work, even on delay/pulse. WASHER still does not spray fluid. Replacement wiper switch came from NAPA, Test WASHER motor. Seized. I can apply power and ground to the motor, the motor does not turn or pump. Scavenge tested-good WASHER motor (and washer bottle) from another vehicle. WASHER still does not work. Check for power and ground at two-wire harness connector for washer pump, near battery. Ground is OK, but there is no power to the motor when the washer switch on the "turn signal" stalk is rotated. Turns out that the WIPER motor is also used to pass-through the power to the WASHER motor. If the circuit board for the WIPER motor is defective, the circuit for the WASHER motor can be incomplete. The circuit board is discontinued by GM. I cannot find a source for rebuilt or aftermarket WIPER circuit boards. Rebuilt WIPER motors do not ship with the circuit board. The circuit board is Treasure Yard Only so far as I can tell. Theory: Defective WASHER motor led to failure of electronic components on WIPER motor circuit board. Went to the Treasure Yard looking for a WIPER motor and circuit board. They sell the wiper motor only as an assembly with the wiper transmission and mounting bracket as an assembly. Discover that the wiper motor (with delay wipers) may be interchangeable from '89 to '98 on some W-bodies, but the TRANSMISSION IS DIFFERENT. Treasure Yard sells me a wiper motor/wiper transmission assembly from a 1995 vehicle. I am fixing a '92. Removal of WIPER motor/transmission from '92: 1. Remove wiper arms by removing plastic cover over pivot. Remove nut holding arm. Remove hose for washer from nearby nipple. Wiper arm may be lifted, and a small drill bit installed through slot near hinge so that arm is held up away from glass. I used an adjustable battery terminal puller to get arm to release from tapered, splined pivot shaft. Wiper arms then lift off of pivot shaft. Helps to have the hood about half-way open. 2. Remove two plastic retainers (straight-blade screwdriver), and a small fistful of sheet metal screws from black-painted metal trim piece. Trim piece also has "rubber" seal to windshield that is often damaged by windshield wipers. Black paint typically flakes off, can be easily cleaned and re-painted. 3. Remove small fistful of sheet-metal screws from black plastic "grille" that screens air for heater/defroster. Disconnect washer hose from nipple on firewall. Remove "grille" assembly. Careful, it's likely to fold-up in the middle. Mine was already broken from clumsy windshield installer years ago. 4. Remove two or (maybe) three screws from black plastic shield over wiper transmission. Shield protects the actual air entry for the blower fan, so that rainwater coming off of windshield doesn't enter passenger compartment via the blower fan. 5. Remove two electrical connectors from wiper motor. They are locked in place with two green tabs which have to come out before the connectors can be unlatched. 6. Remove six bolts through the six rubber grommets of the wiper transmission. 7. Cleverly twist/lift/yank the wiper motor and transmission from vehicle. Installation is the reverse of disassembly. (I've always wanted to say that.) Original wiper motor dated [19]"92 012". New wiper motor dated "04 04 [19]95" And again, on the motor itself: 92, and the part number also. Newer motor, different part number, but completely interchangeable with the '92 motor. I put the '95 motor/circuit board onto the '92 transmission. Fits and works wonderfully. So again, the wiper motor interchanges, but the transmission does NOT. Cover, nut, and washer hose to be removed. Plastic retainer for metal shield (one of two retainers) Washer motor and power connector. Blue wire is ground, red wire is power. [i have at least one more photo to post, and perhaps adding some additional info--but--I wanted to get this started while I had some time.]
  8. Hi. Today I started bleeding the brakes with my brother-in-law, after installing these days a new precharged accumulator. Started like its described in the haynes repair manual at the right front brake - all good. Then started bleeding on the right front brake. ( regularly checked the fluid level) But after approximately 15 minutes of bleeding, there is still air in the hose ? What could that be !? Currently Im pretty frusted with the brake problem.
  9. I have just in installed a new pump in my car. I drained the whole system and replaced it with clean ATF. As I would run the pump, I would push the down button on the switch and the top would raise to close. As I pushed The up bottom on the switch, the pump would do nothing. The top was down too begin with. So as I ran the pump and heard a gargling sound, then stop and add more ATF. So as I repeated those steps to get the top to close the top. It seemed the pump piece motor was working ok. Again I was pushing the down button too get the top to close. I had the car engine off and would push the up bottom on the switch but would not hear a thing. When I pushed the down button I heard the pump engage. I believe with my original pump I would have to push the up button on the switch several times until the pump would engage and when it did, it would close really really slowly and the fluid was at the right level in the resevoir. How can I and what electrical pieces do I need to test or replace to get my convertible back to working condition? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. The starter in my wife's 94 coupe with the 3.1 died this morning, ended up going out and getting a new one along with a new battery. Tossed both in, went to start the car and it won't fire. I only unhooked the 3 cables going to the starter, along with the battery cables, and made sure they all got hooked back up properly. The car ran fine before the starter went out, and now it sounds like the fuel pump isn't kicking on. Is there something I am overlooking that I may have knocked loose, or do I need to reset something? Tried some starting fluid, in gas the pump wasn't pushing gas, but it didn't even attempt to fire. Could I have knocked something loose dealing with the ignition?
  11. Years ago, I put a Donnelly autodim+compass+map lights mirror in the 94 Cutlass. It had a 7-pin inline connector. The autodim fluid has leaked out, making it difficult to use the mirror. Thinking to just replace it with a basic mirror with map/dome lights, but don't want to rewire it. What cars came with a basic map/dome mirror that used the 7-pin inline connector?
  12. So I need to replace the transmission in my GP. It's a '94 SE 3100 v6 w/ the 4t60e. I'm assuming i can use any 4t60e from any W body from '94-'95 as long as it is equipped with the 3100 v6. I could be wrong about that though? What are some things I should look for in a junkyard transmission, other than low(ish) miles. I was going to drop the pan in any trans I deem may be suitable for my car to look for excessive clutch material or any abnormalities (burnt fluid, chunks of metal, etc). I was also going to replace all shift solenoids for added insurance. Thanks in advance guys!
  13. For the longest time I've kept getting a code 39- clutch switch. I've replaced the switch with a brand new one, and the wiring is good. Why does this keep popping up? And is there a way to possibly disable that code so that it never pops up again? Also, the low coolant light kept flashing at me today while I was driving. The fluid level is fine, which makes me think the sensor is bad? Is that a fair guess?
  14. Hi ! I know it´s maybe a silly question, but I need to know it: Is the diaphragm from the PM III accumulator in direct contact with brake fluid ? Nearly every supplier here wont send me an accumulator because they say the diaphragm is not compatible with brake fluid and will be destroyd immediately !? to find the right accumulator is an unbelievable challenge here. best regards from germany HEMI
  15. allenGP

    Why Dex Cool?

    Is it completly nessecary to use dex cool? I got my 2000 GP a few years ago and when i went to flush the radiator it was all rusty colored, i think they had the green stuff in it. When i refilled I used the green stuff wasnt aware the car is supposed to run Dex cool. Already 6 months later its rusty looking again. so I flushed it and put dex cool in it. Now im reading all these bad stories about dex cool... Do we have to use it? Was the green fluid likely the culprit making my fluid turn brown? I just want to know what I should use and why my fluid is turning brown. Thanks in advance.
  16. I am leeking fluid from around the trans mount. I have not pulled the mount out but that is the only place the fluid is. I found one of the bolts not all the way. are either of the holes go threw to inside the case so fluid could leek out.
  17. Hello Everyone! I have replaced my heater core about 3 months ago, and didn't properly bleed the cooling system. Well since we are entering the fall/winter season, I need the heat. I have read a lot of threads on the forum about how to bleed the system. I have tried bleeding the car while it was parked on an incline. While having the radiator cap off, and bleeders shut I have squeezed the hoses, and have seen bubbles come out. After replacing the cap, I have opened each bleeder. I am still hearing bubbles in the heater core, and don't have any heat. I have done this for at least an hour, and after topping it back off with coolant. When I reinstalled the heater core, I did use a funel and filled the core with coolant before I hooked it back up. Any thoughts or suggestions would be great as it is getting cold during the evenings! Am I missing the correct steps to bleed on the 3100? 1) Park car on incline 2) Open radiator cap, check fluid level top off 3) start car, wait for operating temperature at which fans kick on, and open one bleeder valve at a time (I start with the bleeder on the water pump side), and squeeze upper radiator hose, before closing bleeder hold hose tight and then re-tighten bleeder valve 4) close bleeder on water pump side, and open bleeder on the thermostat side, and squeeze lower radiator hose. 5) replace cap after defeat, and fill fluid after engine cools.
  18. Engine Diagonal Brace: one of the two metal bars that are attached to the strut tower with one longer bolt (actually just outside it) and to the front of the engine compartment with two smaller bolts. These are the braces that must be removed to access the coolant overflow tank on one side and the washer fluid reservoir and battery on the other side. So I guess I removed and reinstalled the engine diagonal brace one two many times because one of the smaller bolts on the front of the engine compartment just keeps spinning and never gets snug. The threads on the bolt are fine, but most of the threads in the hole came out with the bolt. The damaged threads are M9x1.25. So what to do? (1)I have a tap and die set, but I've never done this sort of work before. Will I get good threads if I jump up to the next largest size (M10x1.25)? (2)Can I use a helicoil? I am hesitant because the bolt only threads through metal that is about 3/8" thick, but the bolt is at least an inch long. I thought helicoils need to bottom out in the hole. Thanks for any help.
  19. My sister has a 1994 Olds Cutlass 3.1. The transmission will not go into reverse or shift out of first gear. Checked the trans fluid. Level is fine at op temp. Color is brown.
  20. W-body family, Hey would anyone have a diagram showing what to pull out in order to remove the cowl cover? I had my windshield replaced, and found that the hose that connects to a T fitting is disconnected. I have wash fluid being wasted due to the disconnected hose. Thanks guys! Rob
  21. Hi all, I own a chevy lumina for 4 yrs. My oldest daugheter drove it 2 years and now her sis will drive it 2 more; Work done to it: New spark plugs/wires,transmission fluid/filter,new IAC,LIM gasket,dummy plug o ring,fuel injector o rings,2 new headlights,new taillight,new alternator, big group 78 battery,new belts/hoses,and 4 new yokohama tires. Bought from inlaws w/ 96000 now has 105000. I also have a 2012 toyota highlander and a 2007 toyotoa yaris. I also have a "fun" vehicle a 1999 dodge dakota club cab R/T w/ 55000 org miles. Lot of work done to the dakota too! The toyotas have been fine. Minimal work done to them.
  22. Does anyone have a parts diagram of the PMIII that might show seals? Mine has a leaking seal in the motor/pump. There is a seal that keeps the fluid from traveling from the pump into the motor. I need that seal.
  23. I am having some body issues with this 94. Was wondering about the following: How can I replace the weather stripping around the exterior windshield and where could I get a replacement? Behind the Wheel where the bumper meets the rear quarter panel, what can I do (I am not a body guy), to some what fix or hide the damage from the rust? I also have this on the other side as well. Other than that, I have a fast top that goes down but closing the roof takes awhile. I have read that I just need to fill it with AT fluid while the top is down, then leave the cap off, cycle it a few times (gets the air out), then tighten the lid cap, cycle it a few times more, and I should be good to go. Thanks for any help! Much Appreciated!
  24. I know I have done a lot of reading about the convertible pumps on here. I can not trouble shoot it to figure it out. Putting the convertible top down is normal. Putting it up is alittle slow. Now if I were to take the top that is already down, and push it more into the back of the trunck, I then try to put the top up and it can not do it all with out myself manually doing it. I did check the fluid in the pump and all looks right, (No fluid loss). The fuse also looks ok. Thanks for any information! Appreciate all the help you guys give!
  25. Hi I need to remove the valve body on my 97 olds cutlass supreme. I have a P1870 code, I can see some increased engine rpm, increased water trans temps. The fluid did not burn and there is not much metal in the pan.I am told the accumulator bore is worn out. What is best way to remove this valve body? thanks scott
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