UA-65274002-1 Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'engine'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Site Related
    • Announcements and News
    • New Member Introductions
  • General W-Body Discussion
    • FAQs and Technical Information
    • General
    • Powertrain
    • PCM Tuning
    • Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
    • Car Audio
    • Appearance/Car Care
    • Member's Rides
    • Events
  • Specialty Forums
    • Turbo Grand Prix
    • Cutlass Supreme Convertible
  • Classifieds
    • W-body For Sale/Trade
    • W-body Wanted
    • Links and deals
    • W-body Auction Watch
    • Other For Sale or Trade / Wanted

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL











Found 4,010 results

  1. Hi, im new to the l67 (or any variation thereof). I got bored one day so I got on craigslist to see what I had to offer. i bought a totaled 2001 ssei Bonneville. not too much damage but the insurance company thought other wise. After searching the forums I wanted to come up with a 1 of a kind swap that would be easy and cheap to build, be unique, and be a sleeper. I found a 1998 vw beetle. then I got to measuring and cutting. sorry for some reason the pics are not in order. I cut the Pontiac at the firewall. then I cut the REAR floor pan and trunk floor. measured and notched the vw frame. I put the Pontiac subframe and unibody in place and started welding and plating. then I cut the rear deck out of the Pontiac and placed it over the engine in the rear of the car.
  2. I want to put a 180 thermostat on my GTP. But Im not sure how to drain the radiator on this engine. If someone can tell me where the drain plug is located or just how I can drain the radiator that would help a lot. thanks. I saw a little yellow plug but im not sure if that's it, it's kinda sideways.
  3. Hi all, Got the car back together today. Still has some sort of miss. Doesn't stall anymore. Never pulled all the plugs just the wires so we will do that tomorrow. Anyway, I'm wondering if any of you know what this wire/plug is for (the one being held, not the hood light). I was reaching up inside the driver's wheel well to find a pair of pliers that fell down and found the wire. Looking at the end of it, it hasn't been plugged in, in a long time. It appears to snake down back behind the engine??? By where the harness plugs into the transaxle. Not really sure as we were calling it a day. Could it go into the automatic transmission? Maybe not having it plugged in to wherever its supposed to go is causing the miss? Or maybe it's one of those connectors that was never supposed to plug into anything?
  4. Hello everyone. I have an 04 Grand Prix GTP Comp G. Got it 2 years ago. 149000 miles now and starting to play with the engine a bit. Got a cold air intake with a bypass mid line and looking forward to hearing from you all. Thanks
  5. I just started my cat this evening and there was shot of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. I backed it up for a few and let it ran awhile. still had white smoke. I did see a little antifreeze under the engine. Car sounds fine. Any ideas besides the obvious head gasket failed or leak. We did drive last week for awhile and the car was fine. Thanks again for any feedback.
  6. OK, need help. I need to lay this out and get feedback as proof both of these garages are idiots, so here it goes, the complete story. 94 3.4. May 2013, broke serpentine belt, towed to garage. Replaced water pump, thermostat, belt, pulleys. Was told I had head gasket problems. Was leaking coolant somewhere when I picked up my car. Drove car to another garage, asked for pressure test to confirm. I was told there was a broken inlet valve on the bottom of the radiator, no way a pressure test could have been done on it to get to I had a bad head gasket. Took back to first garage, demanded they put radiator in my car, they did, no further leaks, no overeating problems, nothing. Drove all summer 2013 in 100+ heat with a/c going most days, top up or down. No problems of any kind. Parked it end of October for the winter. February, needed to use it to go pick up a dining room table with my trailer (it's got a factory installed trailer hitch), warmed it up, turned on the heat, blew nothing but cold air, froze my butt off for the 8 mile round trip. Parked it again for the rest of the winter. Saved up the money to get the "supposedly" blown head gaskets and decided to go ahead and have timing belt replaced at same time since it had been about 50K miles since being replaced, took it back to the garage that did the initial work with the water pump, radiator, etc., on August 31st. After 4 weeks and a lot of delays, got my car back on September 29. All seemed well. Drove for exactly 2 weeks. Went out one Monday morning to start it to go visit my brother in the hospital, it died. Tried again, it died. Got out to raise hood, oil all over my garage floor. Called garage to come get it, told them it looked like they might not have put my oil filter on tight or something, they towed it back to their garage. Called me the next day and said the oil sending unit was leaking, and oh by the way, you have a water leak. apparently they had let me leave the garage the first time, with a bad hose and didn't bother to replace it or even tell me about. After another 2 weeks, they were going to bring my car to my home since I had no way to come get it. So, manager was driving it to me, got about a mile from the store, overheated. towed it back to their garage. After another 7-10 of trying to figure out what was wrong, asked me if they could have it towed to another garage to get "correctly" diagnosed. A couple of days later, I get a phone call stating that the 2nd garage determined my heads had cracks in them and apparently the machine shop either missed it or something, so they were going to buy new heads for my car at their expense and fix it. Another week goes by. Winter is here, I have no ride, so they rent me a car to drive saying my car would be ready in a few days. Another week goes by. The 2nd shop is now telling them, they apparently repaired my heads, after I was told I was getting new ones, and now the block has pin holes in it, it's had them for over 2 years, and it's all "my fault" and the first garage isn't responsible for fixing my car as now my "piece of junk" car (their words) needs a whole new engine at a cost of over $6000. Next thing I know, my car is sitting in their parking lot torn down, they won't put it back together as "they won't be held responsible for it" and my rental car is yanked from me. So I am back on foot, no car, and their claims department is trying to say that for 2 years, my car has had pin holes in the block, can't be repaired, and they aren't going to do anything about it. Called today to find out when someone is going to put my car back together, waiting to hear that now. So, I need some professional opinions. Here is what I think. First garage that told me I needed head gaskets, replaced gaskets, let my car leave with a bad water hose, sent car to garage they have a "relationship" with (they send business back and forth), who are telling them I have been knowing driving my car for 2 years with a bad block, which is a lie. They repaired my heads apparently, put my car back together, guess what, still got hot I guess, so now instead of them standing behind that they told the first garage, the heads had cracks, now it's the engine block has pin holes and they aren't touching it again. Thoughts? And I guess I am going to have to sue them to get something done.
  7. aaaaamartin

    ECM Trouble

    Hi everyone, newbie, first post to the forum. there is very odd things going on with the car's electronics lately. It's a Regal 1990 3.1MPFI 2-Door Limited using the underhood 1227727 ECM. With ignition on, engine off the SES and Low Coolant light both show a nervous flicker. They are supposed to be steady on, but they do flicker 5 out of 10 times, and sometimes the are both of completely. Sometimes coolant light is off, ses light is on and #1 fan engages. (Limb home???) Any ideas what this could be? Thnaks in advance Martin
  8. OK all, I have a 97' Olds Cutlass Supreme SL with the 3.1L V6. The engine is leaking oil, due to needing the lower intake manifold seals replaced. I'm intending to do the repair, but one thing has me hesitant and/or confused about doing the job. After removing the rockers and push rods to replace the LIM seal, am I required to "set the valves" or can I simply bolt the rockers back on to a specified torque setting? I've read both. If anyone has an answer, or a place to get the details, I appreciate the feedback. Thanks in advance!
  9. Anyone got the part number for this? I just replaced the jet engine sounding radiator fan, and now the IC pusher fan is super loud as well. looked on rock auto didnt see it.
  10. been getting requests for l67 swap stuff on fb a lot recently, as 3800 montes/luminas are hitting jys in kc like they were in springfield i had a few comparo to s2 3800 1996 regal parts- downpipe-are they the same? throttle cable-same? ac hoses-same? and the harness...i know theyre different but i know some guys(a certain han solo quoting member comes to mind lol) 4t65 wiring to them..answers that question. what i need to know is can i swap the pcm plugs to use 98-02 pcms? if so are the color codes/pin locations the same? thanks
  11. Hey all, I've got a 1991 Cutlass Supreme 3.1 [T engine] with the 4T40 trans. I've had the car since my dad passed in '95, and it only has around 90K, with just a few parking lot 'dings'. Overall, it's been a great car...until last year. I'll be looking, and posting, hoping to find some tips/suggestions on how to figure out what's wrong/what to test, etc.--'cause the OBDI just doesn't set any codes to help. I have the original GM manuals for the car [3 vol. set], but there's just TMI:confused: in them without enough specific scenarios that match my current issue! Here's hoping y'all can give me some pointers.
  12. Hello folks and thanks for this site. I don't think I've owned a w- body. I've owned several LeSabre a Bonneville and Parkavenue . The reason I'm here is I've been adopted by my neighbors kids as their grandfather and the oldest owns a 1997 Lumina he inherited from his grandmother. It began knocking and loosing power a few weeks ago. Well what's a grandfather to do, I thought this would be a great project. We could have some fun and he could learn how an engine works. We did but we have a problem the camshaft broke and there is to much damage to be able to repair this engine. So I'm needing to know what engines will replace the 3.1 and how difficult would it be to bolt in a 3.8. We haven't been able to find a low mileage 3.1 but I've found a 3.8 with 50000 miles on it out of a Lesabre. I've been told the 3.4 will bold right in without changing the wiring harness. Any information will be appreciated.
  13. Heres another problem i seem to keep having =MAP =low code given. I hav ereplaced the map sensor 2 times now=back to back!! I keep getting a map low code & then engine runs badly -yet doesnt quit! Manuals tell me that means there is a "High"Vacumn. Yet what the heck here? vacumn is not adjustable. Why /what would cause a map low?? Thanx. Again car is a 1988 olds cutlass FWD 2.8 engine.
  14. I need to replace the PROM in my 90 regal custom coupe with the 3800. where can i get a PROM? these are discontinued. Can i just get an ECM from a junkyard that is engine and year matching and plug and play??
  15. 94 3.4L DOHC, the Cannister Purge vacuum plastic line drops behind the engine and goes to a hose that goes under the vacuum booster. It's got a burned crispy spot from where it appears to have been resting either on the exhaust manifold or O2 sensor and it also touches the transaxle shift linkage. Doesn't really look like that's how this hose is supposed to be routed. I've zip-tied it to the evaporator pipes to get it away from the exhaust and gearshift linkage, but was just wondering if anyone knows how it's supposed to be routed and if you happen to have pics?
  16. I put this in General because it applies to any metal part that's looking crusty. The method is simplicity itself. I have a good, hard chisel about six inches long, and I use this to tap off anything that will come off the part. I scratch with a pointy file for places where the chisel won't fit. Then I brush on old diesel engine oil and leave it for a few hours. I think the chemicals in the oil etch into the metal of the part, but I'm just guessing here. Then get some rags and polish off the oil. The attached pictures show the results. I don't have a "before" picture of the caliper, but it looked pretty grim. It doesn't take too long on a brake set up, maybe an hour or depends on how good a finish you want. The finished product is a pleasure to look at, and should rust more slowly afterwards. I didn't use any sandpaper or the like, just the tapping with the chisel.
  17. I have a 1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.4L. Searched the entire forum and info about computers is very scarce. All started when i failed SMOG (CA). SMOG guy said to take it to a shop and have the check engine light looked at. Shop pulled 14 different codes that were causing the check engine light. Paid them to diagnose each one to make sure it indeed was the computer. They want $700ish. I see them online for $90. I found some info online about replacing the computer but it is all for the 3.1, not 3.4. Are they different when it comes to the computer? Also the "new" (re-manufactured) computer says "Additional Relearns Are Theft, Crankshaft, Idle, Etc. May Be Required." I know how to preform the idle relearn. Anybody know about the other ones? Thank you.
  18. I have had my convertible sitting in the garage for the past few weeks. I noticed a few drops of oil and alittle coolant to the side of the oil. Dumb question is there a sealant I can add to the engine to keep it from leaking?
  19. Bought an l67 with 80,000 miles out of a 04 park avenue ultra. It sat for a year before i bought it. Supposedly it ran very well, but I see rust on valves 1,3 and 5. When i pulled the exhaust manifold. 2,4 and 6 look great. What should I do? Thanks for any insight.
  20. I enjoyed the car very much. It had 198,000 miles on her, and ran very well up until now. After I had replaced the heater core I never had heat in the cabin. I thought I had air in the lines, and so I opened the bleeder screw on the passenger side open, and then close and open the driver side bleeder screw. After thinking I had bleed as much air out of the system, I topped off the radiator with more coolant, and thought I was good. Well, I noticed the temperature gauge barely moved up into the heated region, and I didn't think nothing of it. I kept driving and never saw any over heating condition until I herd a weird noise from the engine. Also, the RPMS would reach to 3,000 to hold 45mph. I knew then the car was ruined. I opened the hood, and the engine was hot as hell. I pulled the dipstick, and saw coolant mixed with oil. I killed her. I didn't run it enough to throw a rod, but i knew it wouldn't be much longer that It would. I can't decide if its worth to replace the engine, or just buy another $2,500 car. I have seen 98 luminas go for around $700.00 at an auction. Has anyone been in a similar situation? Added: Another thing that happend was the coolant resevoir hardly moved between cold and hot states. The upper radiator hose was hot as hell, and the lower radiator hose was Luke warm.
  21. Rather nervous here. I just had a big shock! The car is the 91 Regal Coupe I've posted about recently. It has a 3.1L multiport F engine, as written on what I understand to be the rear valve cover on top of the engine. I was tidying up the front lamp wiring, and was turning on the ignition (not running the engine) and the lamps to check stuff as I proceeded. Then I'd turn everything off and disconnect the battery. During one check (ignition on/parking lamps activated) there was a very loud bang in front of me, followed by smoke coming up from under the rear valve cover. I disconnected the battery very quickly, and just stood there in shock. It's not my car. When my heart rate had settled down, I connected the battery. The ignition and parking lamps were still on, just as before the bang. I went to start the fired up no problem, running as sweet as ever. I left it it that and came in here for help. I haven't tested anything else yet. If anyone can suggest what might have happened, I'd be extremely grateful. I have no idea at all why this happened, or what might now be toast. There are some wires which run under the valve cover, so I checked the Haynes manual for joy there. Mainly, I'd like to know what electronic component(s) is/are under that valve cover. If I have to remove it I will, but would really rather not .
  22. Looks like its time again for a lower engine mount GRRR! well at least i wont get all stickey .... oh HELLL GRRRRR I FORGOTS:lol: lol i knew i had a bad mount just funnin' cause i grabed one off flebay real discount. but this time i get to swap that gooey fucker out myself:D:D:D
  23. Pulled the valve covers off 3.4 DOHC. Was going to replace the gaskets while I have the plenum off. There is a very thin oil varnish ridge on either side of where the rubber gasket would have been on the cam carrier. I've been trying to clean it off and scrubbing with a rag and lacquer thinner, but the rough edge of the aluminum is shaving off rag lint and falling into the cams, good thing I was going to change the oil anyway. Not to mention it's back-breaking work, spent an hour and only have the front one halfway clean, rear one I'm sure will be even harder to reach. I don't want to make an 8-hour project out of something that should take 10-minutes tops. What product do you guys recommend that will make easy work of this? Been looking through O'Reilly website and all I see are engine degreasers.
  24. I have a 1993 Cutlass Supreme convertible with the 3.4 DOHC engine. I change oil religiously every 3,000 miles. Upon a cold start, the oil pressure needle is about a 1/4 inch above the second hash mark. When I say second hash mark. If you could pretend that the oil gauge was the fuel gauge it would show a quarter inch more than a quarter tank left upon startup and stays on the quarter mark when idling hot. I know its acceptable for these engines to have 15psi when idling hot. Well, my question is, the gauge is not numbered so you really don't know the true oil pressure unless you put a mechanical gauge on it. Does anyone have an idea of how much oil pressure is when its at the quarter mark?
  25. Hi all! As in the title, the on-the-road running temperature never gets above about 50 on the guage. The guage seems to work fine because when the car is standing and the engine running, the temperature reaches just under 100 and the electric cooling fan cuts in. I'm baffled on this one .
  • Create New...