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Found 3,760 results

  1. 2.8L V6 in 89 Cutlass. Vacuum line to EGR busted. Broke off right at the rubber distribution block that plugs into the throttle body, so I can't bridge the broken spot with a piece of hose or anything (in the past, I've bridged broken pieces with heatshrink tubing which worked great). Any ideas on how to fix? It's 4mm OD plastic line. I'd buy a replacement 4mm plastic vacuum line if I could find it. Had a thought I could push out the broken part out of the rubber block, stick a vacuum barb in there, and then connect a rubber hose from that to the remainder of the plastic line, but will 4mm ID vacuum hose fit snugly enough on it?
  2. Hi All, I am working on replacing the heater core in my 92 Olds Cutlass Supreme S 3.1. There was a thread on the forum that had great verbal descriptions on how to complete the job but all the images had been lost on ImageShack hosting them. Anyway, I am to the point of removing the heater core but am not certain whether I need to remove everything including the pipes through the firewall and if I have to also remove the pipes from the firewall it seems I need to remove a clip or some such thing from inside the engine compartment rather from the passenger compartment side. I've done a bunch of work on this car but this is the first heater core. Any suggestions on how to complete it would be welcome. Thanks kindly, Mike
  3. I just wanted to give a HUGE THANK YOU to everyone on the forum here that has helped me over the past few years that I have lurked around and sought help in keeping my 1994 Cutlass Supreme alive and running... and keeping it going as my daily driver for the last few years. This forum is a great resource, and I'm really glad that I found it when I acquired the Cutlass from my in-laws. I know you guys don't know me - but I'm just going to go on for a little bit here: I was fortunate enough to get Bessie (my Cutlass Supreme) from my in-laws at a time when my newer, low mileage car had a major engine disaster - they were kind enough to sell Bessie to me for $1 to get me through that tough time. I ended up holding onto the car for around 3 years. My sister was replacing her Jeep with a newer model - and she offered me her 2009 Patriot at a price that was too good to turn down... so it was time to pass Bessie along to another person who was going through a tough "car time". She had 194,500 miles when she was driven away by her new owner a few days ago - it was a sad moment because the car had been around since her parents bought it while my wife was in high school... but it was nice to know that she was going to a new owner that was going to benefit from all of the hard work I had done making her reliable again. Anyway - let me say it again: Thank you all for this great site and for sharing your knowledge!
  4. Newb here, just posted in new member intros. I have a 93 Cutlass Supreme S 2 door and thanks to GOT 2B GM all ready have a RSTB & some ST front Springs, so I was planning on getting a new Flex-A Form rear spring. Thinking of a 180 - 200 lb spring rate? Does that seem about right? I was also reading up and it seems that Birchmount has better reviews? Are they Noisy? How much heavier are they? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks.
  5. Hello, My read windshield has a leak in the right drivers side corner when the car is sitting still during a rain storm. I am hoping to leave the glass seated and patch it with some silicone but I am told that the only way to patch it is to re-seat the glass. I am very concerned of this because apparently if this glass breaks the car is the right off. Has anyone come across this problem before? How should I approach this?
  6. Hello W body family. 92 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, 3.1L. 161,123 miles The column shift only sometimes activates my backup lights. I found that tapping, wiggling or holding the shift lever slightly passed its seat will activate them. Issue within the last few weeks. Switch in column? or on trans? Thanks. Joe.
  7. Hello W body family. 92 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, 3.1L. 161,123 miles >The column shift only sometimes activates my backup lights. I found that tapping, wiggling or holding the column shift lever activates them... Do you know what I need to do to fix this? Switch in column? or on trans? Thanks. Joe.
  8. So I've noticed since I started driving the Cutlass again that the car is giving me a whopping 10 MPG in MIXED driving... I'm almost scared to know what it would do in real downtown city driving. Anyways, I hooked up tunerpro to the car, and I'm not getting any codes. The only thing I do see is the computer actually affirming me that I'm getting 10mpg. That's what the dash on tunerpro says. At times I get lucky and it will jump to 12 or 14 but most of the time it's 10. This is interstate driving, where usually, I would get 18-20MPG. It used to be that when the car was in 4th gear and doing 70, I got 23mpg, but that's no longer the case. No matter the speed, it's giving me 10mpg. I have switched the TPS out thinking it was that, but no avail. No codes set, no vacuum leaks, tried seafoaming it, that didn't help. I'm at a loss. The interesting part is that I do smell a sweet honey like smell after turning the car off. I sometimes do also notice the engine a bit sluggish around the 2000rpm mark, but resolves itself if I floor it to 3000rpm. After that it acts normal but will feel sluggish if I go back to 2000rpm. I do have a datastream from the time I ran it with tunerpro, but don't know how to attach. All help is appreciated.
  9. Hello, I own a 95 Cutlass Supreme convertible in excellent shape but I do want to replace one interior part but I have no idea what it is called. Please see the image I copied below. The arrow indicates the part I want to replaced. What is it called and/or the part number? I've tried interior post, post cover, column, column cover but no luck. On in my car (black interior) in its center, it has puckered causing about a 2 inch bump... Any info is appreciated. Thanks everyone
  10. Hey guys. Seeking some help. Got a 92 cutlass supreme with the 3.1. So im guessing its the first gen 3.1. Today i start it. Starts fine. Runs for about 30 seconds then shuts off as if i turned the key off. No sputter. No hesitation. I think hm thats odd. Go to start it and now all it does it crank and crank. No fire. Fuel pump is 3 years old. I can hear the fuel pump running so im thinking it cant be that. Also the fact of how it died. Seems to me like an ignition problem. Now how do i know if its an ignition module or one of those crank and/or cam sensors? Thanks guys.
  11. 94 Cutlass convertible with 3.4L DOHC has been down a month, took weeks to get all the parts, and many hours of back-breaking work later, it's all back together. ...but it won't start. What caused it to die in the first place is the FPR went bad and it flooded everything full of fuel. Made a thread about it here: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/80649-3-4-DOHC-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Adventures-and-questions-saving-my-brake-booster Went ahead and replaced spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, plug wires, plugs, oil manifold gasket, and lower intake manifold gasket while I was at it. Back to the problem: I had checked the fuel pressure before I put it back together. Ohm'd the injectors, all the same at 12.4-ohms. Just over 40psi with the pump running, nothing dripping out of any injectors, nothing coming out of the FPR vacuum line. I thought that part was fine. I noticed now the fuel pressure bleeds off pretty quick and then slows down at 10psi. Weird. What would cause this, if FPR doesn't leak? Usually means leaky injectors in my experience, but no fuel came out of them when I tested it earlier. Wish I'd checked pressure bleed off time when I had the fuel rail loose, but either I didn't think of it or it seemed normal enough I didn't notice. It kind of acts like it wants to start when I crank it, but it doesn't. I noticed a little bit of smoke underhood. Not sure where it's coming from, just like a light mist of smoke everywhere. Also, cranking sounds kind of weird. More whiney. Is it possible fuel getting in a cylinder could have made it jump time, like if it had been fuel hydrolocked and I didn't realize it? I take it this would show on a compression tester? I guess I'd need some kind of DOHC adapter to get a compression tester to fit. Is there any that is an ideal length for the 3.4 DOHC? I'm so frustrated and depressed. Sadly, this might be the end of the line for the car. I may have to junk it or sell it cheap and just buy something else. We were going to sell the car in the next year anyway, but I was hoping I could keep it running till we find something else. Oh well.
  12. Mel87

    Blinker relay?

    Went to Dunkin Donuts this morning and noticed the my right blinker isn't blinking. Just a solid state on. When I got home I tried to diagnose it. The hazards will blink it, but when I use the blinker lever it wont. There are no bulbs out so it brought me to the conclusion of a bad relay maybe? I remember years ago it happened to my uncles Dodge truck. Would that be what it is and if so where is the relay located? Also it won't blink even with the headlights on.
  13. Well, I found out that one of my stock wheels are bent and I'm not a very happy camper right now as I was planning on upgrading the wheels in 2015. Anyways, looks like I have to bite the bullet and get new wheels... I personally like 5 spokes, nothing too fancy but something that gives the car a more aggessive look while looking like a factory option. With that said, I've spent a long time looking at wheels, and most wheels I like are no longer made. My personal favorite are these Nexo P5's. But they're no longer made, so I've had to keep looking; and so far I've only liked these 2... Asuka ST15... Basically a knockoff verson of the Rota GTR wheels. They're import wheels, but it seems to be similar to the Nexo's and well... IDK it might look decent enough on my Cutty. Sadly it's an import wheel so I can't find domestics with em. The other wheel I like is the Mach M5. Not sure what this is a knockoff of, but it seems to be a German car scene wheel Out of these 2, which one would look better on a 94 Cutlass Supreme Convertible? Mind you this is more or less me right now Not my acutal car, but it's the same one minus the pinstripe near the body cladding and paint that needs to be redone. All help is appreciated... I also take suggestions, as these wheels are by no means final and just ideas.
  14. Hey guys, I put a 3800 SC in my '95 Olds Cutlass Supreme fairly recently, and am running a stock '98 LTZ Lumina exhaust. How restrictive is the LTZ exhaust? I have an '03 L36 Impala, and the exhaust is noticeably larger on it than the LTZ. Thanks, Andy
  15. I can't seem to see or locate the sensor and I need instructions on how to get this job done. thanks. Rob
  16. I am just replacing this part on my Cutlass, I am just wondering what the part is responsible for? What does it do?
  17. OK all, I have a 97' Olds Cutlass Supreme SL with the 3.1L V6. The engine is leaking oil, due to needing the lower intake manifold seals replaced. I'm intending to do the repair, but one thing has me hesitant and/or confused about doing the job. After removing the rockers and push rods to replace the LIM seal, am I required to "set the valves" or can I simply bolt the rockers back on to a specified torque setting? I've read both. If anyone has an answer, or a place to get the details, I appreciate the feedback. Thanks in advance!
  18. Hey all, I've got a 1991 Cutlass Supreme 3.1 [T engine] with the 4T40 trans. I've had the car since my dad passed in '95, and it only has around 90K, with just a few parking lot 'dings'. Overall, it's been a great car...until last year. I'll be looking, and posting, hoping to find some tips/suggestions on how to figure out what's wrong/what to test, etc.--'cause the OBDI just doesn't set any codes to help. I have the original GM manuals for the car [3 vol. set], but there's just TMI:confused: in them without enough specific scenarios that match my current issue! Here's hoping y'all can give me some pointers.
  19. I picked up a 1993 3.4 Cutlass Convert from a neighbor and it has been a great car. Red body, gray interior and black top. But, the car has suddenly gone crazy. When I start the car, it goes thru a sequence of tests quickly checking all the dash lights, radio and climate controls. The sequence just continues round and round. I pulled the fuse that stopped it, but now I have no climate control or dash gauges (except fuel). I searched threads on the board to see if someone else has experienced the same problem, and I could not find one. I disconnected the battery and checked all the connections. No improvement. Electrical is my weakest area and I need some direction. Any thoughts?
  20. I have a 1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.4L. Searched the entire forum and info about computers is very scarce. All started when i failed SMOG (CA). SMOG guy said to take it to a shop and have the check engine light looked at. Shop pulled 14 different codes that were causing the check engine light. Paid them to diagnose each one to make sure it indeed was the computer. They want $700ish. I see them online for $90. I found some info online about replacing the computer but it is all for the 3.1, not 3.4. Are they different when it comes to the computer? Also the "new" (re-manufactured) computer says "Additional Relearns Are Theft, Crankshaft, Idle, Etc. May Be Required." I know how to preform the idle relearn. Anybody know about the other ones? Thank you.
  21. I need to put new rotors on my 94 Cutlass Supreme. The bolts holding the brake caliper bracket on take some kind of large star shaped socket it looks like. Can someone tell me exactly what size/type it is? Thanks, Vince
  22. Light is on all the time . I have 1994 cutlass quad 4. Where is the sensor? does anyone know part #?
  23. I have the 1994 cutlass supreme convertible. I when I press my fob to either unlock or lock I hear the car click but the locks do nothing. I am curious if someone could show me a diagram of where the actuator is at. Also would I need to buy new ones or can rebuild or clean up the old ones. Thanks
  24. Turned the key and nothing happened..just a click. Turned 2 or 3 more times and after a couple of clicks it started. It's intermittent. Also noticed when this happens the clock resets to 1:00..is that normal? How much should it cost to have a starter installed? Thanks.
  25. It's a 1993 cutlass supreme convertible with the auto climate controls. Now, for the story... When heat is set to 90 the passenger side blows hot and driver side luke warm. The actuators are all working properly. The climate control has no error codes and tested good. The following items are new: New water pump, Thermostat, radiator, and heater core. Knowing that all these items were new, I started looking closer at the heater box. I removed the both lower underdash panels, as well as, the lower part of the dash where the ash tray is. I then removed the lower heater box cover exposing the heat core and bottom blend door. I started checking the actuators one at a time verifying that they are work properly. The last thing I checked for was the operation of the blend door from heat to cold. This is where things get interesting. When I start adjusting the temp from 90 to 60 the blend door opens and closes. The problem is that when I set it to 90, the blend door comes down and instead of closing completely flush against the 3 x 8 opening, the blend door closes on the passenger side but closes at an angle and the drivers side has a one inch gap. Therefore, the luke warm air on the drivers side and hot on the passenger. So the question is, has anyone ever run into this problem? is the door broken or can something be bent or is something installed improperly? I know the answer is anyone of these but I wanna know if anyone has ever run into this problem before.
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