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Found 3,760 results

  1. Yup, believe it or not, someone actually sent a 1st gen W to China. How about that?
  2. does anyone know the best way to update the sounds for a 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme??? has the stock AM/FM/Cassette and my nephew just got it (although he has no license as yet... few months off still) and would like him to be able to hear his iPod if it is feasible I made the mistake of asking him if he might be updating the radio to one that plays CDs and he replied he didn't really listen to CDs...I feel old I think he needs to do this on the cheapest but best route he can do and I have no idea how to do this as I have not updated my radio's from stock in a long time...(I remember 8-Tracks ) Any help you could provide would be appreciated...I've tried Google search as well as here but most seem to convert CD players to iPod use... Thanks, Bill
  3. I am junking out my rusting black sedan and moving my 3800 to a rust free body and taking best of both cutlass into one. I'm not using my 3:43 trans anymore, delays going into gear and only get 18/19 mpg in town and 24-27 mpg highway. Reason #1- have a baby coming in sept and want dependable vehicle and Bonus- if I can optimize gas mileage as driver and vehicle we'd take on trips... option of trans. 1. 1996 3:05 FDR trans with 65k miles, 4t60e 2. 1988, 282 with all needed parts, except clutch How dependable are the 282 trans? What upgrades should I do to trans? Anyone use these with 3.5/3.8 engines that can tell me experience. Or If I use the 3:05 trans (already spare n selected for gas mileage), what would you recommend me doing before I install? Of course #1 goal is dependability, then Improved gas mileage. suggestions on which? Thoughts?
  4. So i was reading in the FAQ section that dorman part 924004 and 924005 are the subframe bushing kits. However the front bushing kit says it for 97-94 for the cutlass. Will it work on my 90?? thanks
  5. OK I have a 96 cutlass supreme I'm putting in a 3800 sc from a 97 ssei what will I have to do I have trans wiring harness and computer so is there anything I should know or what works best any help I would be grateful for
  6. Do you want to update your dash of your 95-97 Cutlass? Check out what I found at They just came out with the Heater Control face overlay. I had them make the Console Shifter overlay for me. They will make any item you want. They did a very good job. The Headlight Switch is also a brand new product.
  7. I can't seem to make the 'search' work, so I'm asking for a way to make my door hinge quiet--passenger side makes a loud clunk-cluck whenever I open or close the door. It is not either of the hinges making the racket, its the door-tensioner spring-thing near the bottom hinge. Driver's side is nice and quiet but the pass. side is loud and obnixious. Must the door panel come off? Is that a hard job? I have broken many plastic pieces when taking off door panels. Suggestions? BTW, its a '94 Cutlass Convert.
  8. Hi everyone. I have a '92 Cutlass Convertible. Late last year the battery began getting weak. After recharging a couple times, the battery finally wouldn't even hold a charge - that was late-January. The battery was almost five years old and had a useful life, so I bought a new one. No problems...until just a few days ago. I don't drive the Cutlass everyday as we have two other vehicles, so after a couple days of sitting, the car cranked slowly for a second before starting. Obviously, the new battery was getting weak! There are no obvious signs of a parasitic leak (no hood or truck light stuck on, no interior lights, etc.). I did a parasitic drain test today with my multimeter. At first, I was running around 1.50 amps. I disconnected the cables to the driver's side keyhole light and the seat belt connectors and it dropped to around .77 amps. Here's what's strange: opening and closing the door would give me different readings. Sometimes it was around .77 amps, then other times it was around .01 amps. I figured the switch in the door jamb might be bad, so I cleaned it up real good. Still, I'm getting around .75 amps most of the time, but sometimes .01 amps, changing as I open and close the door. Do you think the door jamb switch is bad? There doesn't seem to be much that can go wrong if it's clean - it's a simple switch. Any other ideas on what's causing the intermittent drain? If I pull the ELEC and CTSY fuses, I get .01 amps all the time. Thanks.
  9. Finally found the source of the power steering leak on my '95 LQ1 Cutlass, it's definitely the pressure hose.. A couple of questions, I've searched the archives, and this looks like a fairly unpleasant job... 1. It looks like the combination of having an LQ1 and an automatic transmission makes this a tougher job..anyone found a good way to get to the fittings on the rack short of following the FSM, and dropping the subframe? I saw the recommendation of cutting the line, and using a socket, but it really doesn't look like I'd be able to get a 18mm socket and wrench on that without dropping the subframe.. 2. Would it make sense while I'm struggling to replace the pressure hose, to go ahead and replace the return hose at the same time? Any suggestions or tricks on how to best go about replacing these lines is very much appreciated...
  10. It's time to ask a fuel injector question of my own. This is the situation with my '94 Cutlass LQ1. At 150K an injector or many started leaking, dumping fuel in the intake while car was off. I either had to crank a long time or floor the gas pedal to lean it out enough to get it started Not having a way to figure out which were leaking I replaced all of them with remanned by Autoline (bad decision). It ran perfect for a month then started cranking longer sometimes. Within a 6 months 1 failed resulting in an intermittent violent surge at idle (400- 1500 a few seconds then die. Thought it was a vacuum leak. I did find a couple of small ones with no resolution. I finally took it to the dealership, they found the faulty injector. They said anything less than 12 ohms was considered faulty. One measured 11 ohms. Then again this was for a '94 lQ1. the injector was replace under warranty, but labor was a lot. I wish I would have bought NEW ones, I still might just to be done with it. It still cranks a while sometimes. This is happening again. I talked them in in to replacement under warranty or money back. Anybody have experience with: GB manufacturing (reman) Standard automotive (new) Accel (new) 23lb/hr. Thanks for your input.
  11. Everyone here at has been very generous with their time and talents therefore I would like to share a copy of my Cutlass Supreme Convertible Supplement. It is for 1990-1991 models but I have found it very useful for my 1993 model. It addresses Roof and Top, Stationary Glass, Doors, Rear Quarters and other convertible specific items. Please visit my albums to view them. If you would like a PDF, please message me with YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS and I will gladly email you the files. I HOPE YOU FIND THEM HELPFUL.
  12. Hey everybody, 94 cutlass supreme 3.4. When I get on the gas it accelerates fine up until about 5500 RPMs. At this point regardless of what gear it's in the car stops gaining power, engine gets noticeably louder, and the check engine light comes on. Nothing else seems to be affected and the car still drives fine besides this issue. After I have turned the car off and back on the check engine light goes away. Any ideas where my top end power is going?
  13. Hi everyone! I've owned a 94 cutlass 3.4 for about 8 months now and practically everytime I've search a question about my car it brings me to this site so why not join? Absolutely love my car and looking forward to learning more from the forum here. I do have some interesting issues that have been boggling me for a while now so looking forward to seeing if anyone can help as well!
  14. I've had a Zendar screen-tronic inside glass mount antenna in my Grand National for 20 years with great success. I've been looking for one for my Cutlass vert. I found this website that may or may not sell then, I can't make heads or tails of the language. Can one of our overseas members or anyone please interpret / Order (2) of these for me? Thank you
  15. Im in need of the backlight bulbs that solder in for my auto temp control.
  16. I have a 1997 Cutlass Supreme that gets too hot when idling after the car has been driven. The temp gauge stays on the line during highway driving and if it starts to overheat in traffic it cools down once moving again. The problem seems to be the radiator fans do not come on when they should but occasionally they will come on and one always comes on when I put the A/C on. Also the fan motors are brand new and this problem existed before I changed them. Any ideas what would cause this? The only thing I can think of is the coolant temp sensor is not reading correctly. Thanks for the help!
  17. Years ago, I put a Donnelly autodim+compass+map lights mirror in the 94 Cutlass. It had a 7-pin inline connector. The autodim fluid has leaked out, making it difficult to use the mirror. Thinking to just replace it with a basic mirror with map/dome lights, but don't want to rewire it. What cars came with a basic map/dome mirror that used the 7-pin inline connector?
  18. I just picked up a cutlass supreme with a 3.1the other day . First question is when I was changing the o2 sensor there was a 2 wire connector with a green and a black wire just about melted to the manifold. Second I did a full tuneup (spark plugs,wires,fuel filter,pcv valve,o2 sensor,air filter) and it still throws a code for cylinder 2 misfire. It only idles a little weird at idle and sitting at lights.Once u give it ggas or driving along its completely smooth. Can it be a fuel injector?
  19. Good morning everyone, My name is James from San Antonio. I recently acquired a 94 Cutlass Ciera with 80k original miles. It has been well serviced by its elderly PO and runs\drives great. If I believe the temp gauge though, it is being weird. It moves around a lot. Leaving town yesterday it warmed up normally and climbed a tick past mid way (which is 220) then dropped back to about 1/4 then settled around 200...a tick below half. Cool But it didn't last...I sped up to merge onto another hwy and it crept up again. Now for the whole 60 mile interstate drive it was running 200 to 230 by the gauge, varying the whole way. Half way in stopped for gas and left it idling...the car got warm about 3/4 up the gauge getting close to the red. When I merged back to the highway the temp dropped rapidly to 1/4 ...them slowly returned to what it was doing before moving 200 to 230 and back. So I dropped it out of overdrive to bring revs change. So it runs hot all the time speed....sometimes I let it coast down a klong hill on the highway ...barely drops it at all. None of the usual things seem to make sense... Any thoughts. And yes water is full and looks fairly good. The PO was reminding me to check the battery water...I think its been fairly well serviced.
  20. Hi all, I just inherited a 93 Cutlass Supreme S with under 8,000 miles. I took it directly to my trusty mechanic to go over it & get it checked out and make it road worthy again. I have been doing a lot of reading here and some of it is starting to make sense. I have some ST springs going on the front soon, GOT 2B GM RSTB and a few more upgrades going on soon also. Thanks in advance to all of the questions to come. Ken
  21. I find that when it is really cold outside that the Cutlass pumps out little heat especially when going down the highway. Now I was told that my car has a second radiator that was never used in the 3.1L model and when my dad used the car to tow his boat he connected up the second rad to help cool the transmission under the heaver load. Would this be the cause? Also I topped up the coolant level recently,
  22. Every once in awhile my Cutlass doesn't want to start, I have full power to everything good battery, alternator and new starter. PNRD safety switch replaced last year. So its making me suspect the ignition switch and I`d like some ideas on how to go about testing it when the failure occurs by myself. Wanting to rig up a test light so that I can probe the terminals on the starter solenoid but this usually happens when I'm by myself and no remote start device. Any ideas for that would be cool, also interested in any locations inside the car for probing purposes. Another question would be about the sensor on the key (passkey? or I might be thinking something else) If the thing on the key or inside the cylinder doesn't connect or activate what happens when you turn the key ON but not ignition? Can you still get full power to everything just no engine start? Also I had 2-3 warning chimes after the engine was started the other day(not everytime) and I remember reading along time ago that was not a good thing but I cannot find anywhere what it means.
  23. Just a quick question. Is it normal under cold temperatures (-20C) (engine cold) to hear whining when you try to steer the car? I hear another wine too but I think its just the accessory belt.
  24. 89 Cutlass 2.8L, 229k miles. This is mostly an "I can't decide so I'm soliciting opinions" question. Car was dying intermittently and randomly (i.e. pull out of the driveway, it dies, but started right up). Also had IAC troubles when nothing seemed wrong with the IAC. Checked injectors, and these are the readings I got (after subtracting 0.3-ohms for lead resistance): 11.0 12.0 11.3 11.8 11.9 8.8 Saar found GM spec is something like 11.8-12.6 ohms. I found that same spec in my 94 FSM, but that's for SFI injectors. Not sure what acceptable range is for old 88-93 MPFI Multec injectors, couldn't find it in my 89 FSM. I've read SFI vs MPFI injectors are slightly different somehow, I so I kind of wonder if resistance specs may differ. Obviously one is clearly bad. 2 are lower than the 94 spec. Due to work and the fact the wife and I are now car-pooling and I'm stuck at work till 5:30 now, no way I'll be able to get used injectors locally. I'll have to buy new and they're at least $30/pop, probably closer to $35/each at Rockauto with their high S&H. The car has high miles, 229k, and tranny is dying a slow death (3rd gear slipping when cold). So I'm mainly looking at spending minimum $$$ to keep my heap on the road. Taking heapiness of the car into account and cost of new injectors, would you advise that I should replace the marginal 11.0 and 11.3-ohm injectors? I'd replace them all with new, but you know, old heap with dying tranny... also, the 12.0 ohm one is a replacement Standard FJ105 I put in back in 1997, so I think it's fine to replace in onesies. Made a poll, in case you don't want to say anything. EDIT: Another option, found "GB Remanufacturing" remanufactured injectors, set of 6 for about $86.|Make%3AOldsmobile|Model%3ACutlass+Supreme|Submodel%3AInternational|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.8L&hash=item3a9c9d5571&vxp=mtr Would be cheaper than buying 3 new ones.
  25. First, can a Mod please move this to the FAQ section. Thanks. For anyone that has a 5speed W-body, we all know about the situation with shift cables. They are hard to come by and condition is unknown. Well fortunately, if your looking for one, your problem has been solved. This is the cable that I had in the group buy: This cable is rated for 215lbs push and 620lbs pull. The length is the same as the stock cable. It is physically bigger around than the stock cable, so you will have to modify the body grommets for this to fit. Now how do you get one? You will need to contact this company: Here is a list of their locations with contact information to see which is closest to your location: Now that you know where to look, heres the info youll need to tell them. The part number for this cable is: 173-M-TT-2-59.75 Here is the e-mail from 01/08/2013 Since this was from 01/08/2013, expect prices to go up. Now the good thing about this cable is the end hiem joints can be changed. Shift cable for a 282/284, select cable for 282/284. If you have a different platform car, the last number ( 59.75" ) is the cable length. The J,N, etc platform cars use a shorter cable. Just measure your cable and give them that measurement instead of the 59.75" Now the bad part about this cable, since it is adjustable, youll need to mess with the adjustment, to make the shifts perfect/make it go into all the gears all the way. This will take a little time. Also, the end hiem joints are not perfect and might need some working with to make them fit. Everybody with a 282/284 equiped W-body, no need to worry about old shift cables. This will be the last one you buy. If anyone has any questions or wants more information, PM me. -Jason
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