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Found 3,760 results

  1. For sale or trade. Will trade for good condition base digital cluster no tachometer. Also will trade for a good condition 3/8 drive ratchet style torque wrench. Not exactly sure which years this cluster fits, but I do know it fits various years. It's the international version with tachometer made in Japan by Denso. Part number is 16124373. There are some other numbers on it too, and these can be seen in the pictures. Lens is not cracked but does have some scratches which is normal. Seal is still in place, and it looks like the cluster has never been opened. I received this cluster when I bought the car recently. Seller informed me that the standard three gauge cluster was malfunctioning, and that he had tried to use the Denso cluster, but it did not work because the pin outs are different. I am going to have my standard three gauge cluster repaired instead of trying to re-pin or hack on the wiring to get the international version to work. $40 shipped via US post mail standard to continental USA, and the part is sold as is. I will take Paypal or postal money order. I will have to use a whole roll of bubble wrap on it three to four inches thick. Edit: Got the cluster fired up, and it is sitting under the hood of my car when the pictures were taken. The yellowish glow on the cluster is my engine bay lamp reflection. Hard to take a picture outside with all the glare, but that's where the 12 volts was at that I needed to light it up. Edit: Found the part number on the web. It fits 88-93. And on the notes it fit some 94's.
  2. Hey all, my door is making that annoying creaking sound when I open it (94 cutlass supreme), does anyone know if anyone still makes the door check valve? Don't see it on Rockauto and the dealer definitely doesn't have one. Is it the same on later model W's? Or am I stuck with raiding junkyard cars?
  3. Hi, I am helping a friend fix her 1991 Cutlass Supreme. The supply and return fuel lines that go from the fuel tank to the filter and to the return line need to be replaced. The GM part numbers for these lines are 10062888 and 10062887. These parts are discontinued from GM. I am sure someone else has replaced these lines. How did you approach it? Dorman does have a repair line (dorman part #55180) but that will only help with the supply side. The return side has a female fitting. The part for later years is available, and have a similar shape, but they have different connectors. The junkyard parts available are rusted as badly as the parts on this car. Thanks for any help you can offer.
  4. Yeah one more cooling fan thread, but I couldn't find the answers by reading through the old ones. A few weeks ago I noticed the Cutlass would get hot while stuck in traffic and I had assumed it was the design of the water pump impeller being inferior, but its actually my fans that are not activating at the right temperature. I have confirmed power at the relay and also purchased a new one just in case. I have jumped the fans off the battery and they also activate when full AC is on I have changed the coolant temperature sensor on the thermostat housing. They still do not come on normally, Is there something I`m missing or forgot to check and can anyone point me in the direction of what to try next? This is on the 1994 Cutlass 3100
  5. My car decided enough was enough, so it popped a head gasket. 3.4l lq1, 138000 miles. Here is the dilema: 1- I can sell it, for basically scrap value because engine issues and its a convertible in winter time and be out of a car. 2- fix it, but risk a main bearing or something bizarre go out in the next 5000 miles. 3- go all in and do a full engine rebuild to stock specs. Which ever option it is, it's going to be expensive. It burnt oil on start up, leaked a little oil over night so seals and stuff alike are on their way out. I need some more experienced advice on this matter, any input is appreciated.
  6. Hello everyone, new to here but been around the turbo buick world for awhile. Anyways I need some help getting info. I'm putting a 94 3800 supercharged engine in a 92 cutlass supreme coupe sl. I'm using the engine harness and computer from a 92 regal coupe with a n/a 3.8 to run it with a tuned chip. but I need the pinout for the c100 connector for the 92 regal and the 92 cutlass to get everything working. If someone has this info it would be greatly appreciated. I tried going to a local buick shop to get it but they wouldn't hand out the information.
  7. Idiot question of the day. As you guys know, I have been on the hunt for a half decent early 90's w-body. Lumina Z34, Cutlass Coupe/Convertible etc etc. The cars are half decent but most have rotted out rocker panels. How hard are these to replace? Whats involved? And what do they usually cost? Thanks alot Jason
  8. All; I'm just simply stumped. I had to replace the low pressure return line for power steering on the Cutlass, and just simply can't seem to understand how to thread the replacement line, specifically, the portion going to the rack. EVERYTHING is in the way-- Is there a simple method to clearing all the obstacles, and getting the line in place?
  9. in 1992 my cutlass was repainted under warranty. Well the a**holes that did the work didnt bother to remove the trim around the doors and when they painted the paint got stuck to the rubber trim. as the rubber aged, dried and contracted over the years, it pulled the paint off around the doors until i couldnt take it anymore. I got in touch with automotive touch up and ordered primer, paint and clear then I went to town. I spent 4 days on it, mainly waiting for paint to dry. It looks pretty darn good for $40 worth of materials but if I had taken it to a body shop I would be let down by this. I am not a painter lol. The car had been missing paint in some areas for many years, the issue Starting the tear down and old paint removal, i used a razor blade and 600 grit sand paper covered everything, and the paint dust from over spray did collect everywhere I went over board, did about 5-6 coats of primer and sanded it with 600 girt as per the instructions send with the paint Then came several light then medium coats of color, I sanded around the 4th coat with 600 grit again, then added two more coats Then I started on the clear coats and man I thought I was messing up bad with this. Just remember resist the temptation and only sand the last coat of clear This is what you get, then get on it with 2000 grit sand paper as per the instructions and rubbing compound this is were I stopped with the sand paper after some work it seemed to match the car pretty good shinny Then It was time to put it back together, I found a car in the yard 80 miles away that had better trim than my car so I drove out got it and now it was time to install
  10. My 1997 Cutlass Coupe has the dark gray leather seats. I found a 1993 Cutlass with what looks like the exact same color seats. Did the color change from one year to the next? My car is nowhere near the junk yard, so I can't just pull the seat and compare. The seat I found is literally perfect. Any help would be appreciated.
  11. I tried the search tab but had no luck. Today is our first fairly warm day so I set my thermostat on about 70 and the A/C got a bit cooler but it didn't cool off near enough so I went down to 60 degrees and it didn't cool any better, so I am certain I need a recharge. Air is cool, but not cool enough --so I bought some R134a and began to look for my high/low side fittings and can't find them. I see A/C lines but no low side fitting. Who can tell me where to look? I'm guessing the air filter may have to come out and the dr side strap, washer bottle, etc. and all that paraphenalia to get to the fittings. I have had that stuff out before, but I hate to tear into it if there is some secret location for the A/C service caps. I don't see any stickers saying " R134a" anywhere either. Suggestions? It's a '94 Cutlass with a 3.4l, automatic with low miles--still looks new.
  12. Hey everyone, I'm Trey and I came across this site via Google, so I joined. I currently just picked up a 1992 Cut lass Supreme Convertible (or vert as I've learned). This car drives excellent to be 23 years old, no rust on the body, with only minor interior repair (buttons for Windows, some leather repair, etc)...I'm convinced that because there were so few produced that this car will become a collectible, considering that the Cutlass was a great seller for Oldsmobile, and the fact that it is a convertible as well...I might be wrong though, just have to wait and see...right now I'm looking for replacement parts to get her restored, but have learned that they are hard to find...but that won't deter me from getting her right. Red vert, with a black top that does work...anyhow...I'm glad to be a part of the W-body community...
  13. Ok, It's a long story I will try to fill in the details later, but right now I am trying to fix this. I have an aftermarket CV axle I installed last weekend. It's a Cardone It's a bit too long 3/4" longer than the OEM iirc. On the test drive it was clear the vibrations were from it being too long so I parked it. I was only doing this because the boot on my OEM axle split. I have not gotten the boot replaced on the OEM and want to swap it back in. The Aftermarket CV Axle will not come out. I have bent a pry bar. The slide hammer won't budge it. I tried taking the side cover off to see if I could get to the retaining clip and couldn't. WTF do I do?
  14. Don't let the title fool you, its not the simple pull off the wiper arm and re-positioning on the splines, been there and done that. On the 1994 Cutlass and probably other models there is a plastic wedge guide that allows for only one position, so I need to reposition these plastic guides. The problem is getting them off, an old thread I found BXX stated that these are also splined in and can be taken off but I am having a time figuring out how to do it without damaging the wiper linkage. That's why I haven't tried to yank them off like a bad tooth with some vice grips yet. There is also a fair bit of surface rust on everything under the shrouds and if its not to difficult I`d like to remove the linkage to deal with the rust. The manual makes it look easy but looking at the assembly in real life looks like a pain in the ass to get back in. Has anyone ever replaced that assembly in a 1st gen? I don't recall ever reading about that here.
  15. OK i hate FWD on cars, especially cars that are suppose to be RWD to begin with. So i want to change that in my 1994 Cutlass Supreme 3100. I would love to drop some serious muscle in it like a 455 out of an old firebird or a 454 out of a chevelle, but a 3.8 V6 with turbo or a supercharger would be awesome. So i need to find out if a W-body frame will support a rear end and possibly a transmission like in the corvette. Or can i pull the rear end and transmission off a S-10 or a camaro and it will be wide enough? Anybody have any ideas? Frame Diagrams for W-Body and G-Body and whatever kindof body they used for the 94 camaro(J-Body?) Mid Engine RWD sounds good to, whichever will be easier.
  16. Im looking for the plastic piece for the drivers side latch on my convertible. Not the cup, its the other plastic piece that fits in this opening. Thanks, Frank
  17. Hello everyone, i am new to the site but I wanted to everyone know i am into Oldsmobile cars and parts big time, i own 4 cutlass supreme Convertibles ranging from 92 to95 and i have a lot of parts also have 4 coupes from 94 ,95,96 also lots of parts for them as well, reach out to me if you need anything
  18. 1988 cutlass2.8 FWD! long cranking before starting? runs ok after start -when I can get it started!!Spark & fuel all good & comp. too. Whats up with this thing?? seems i have read long ago about a temp sender causing this???? if so?? where is that located? Thanx
  19. Need the part # for the rubber vacumn connector=(4 preferably or 3 lines 1989 & up?-) that sits on top of the intake plenum near the maf sensor. this is for a 1988 olds cutlass with 2.8 engine. FWD model. This rubber part has 3 plastic vacumn lines coming from it. Thanx
  20. 1997 Olds Cutlass Supreme 2 door. So, I open my passenger side door and the fuse panel on the dashboard is exposed, the piece of cardboard that have been glued on, fell off. Not my doing, but the previous owners. I discover the following fuse/wire issue. Does anyone have any idea why someone would do this? My gut is telling me this isn't safe, but I'm worried that if I disconnect it, my car won't start or something catastrophic will happen. Those wires are hooked into the only 25amp fuses on that particular panel. The wires run down into the dash and I can't see where they go from there. Thanks in advance for any information/suggestions/guesses.
  21. Hi. Can someone please tell me what GM's official name for this paint scheme was called? Thanks. Sent from my iPhone 5s using Tapatalk
  22. Today I noticed as I turned in the driveway that I felt and heard the drivers side wheel make a light clunk noise. Did something break or get loose? It is for a1994 cutlass supreme convertible. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. My passenger side wiper on my '96 Cutlass seems to be adjusted one notch too far to the outside. It kind of flops off the outside edge of the windshield when it's running and doesn't pull down as far as I'd like when it's turned off. Is this on a splined shaft and do I need a special tool to get it off?
  24. Hey Everyone, New member here but not car Forums...My nephew just got his Grandma's Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1997 Anniversary 4 door...3.1 lire and just gone over by a mechanic so it'll be safe once the Neph get's his license in a few months... I hope to learn and hopefully share will be a bit of a re-learning curve as I have more experience with the newer GM products and will have to wake up the brain cells to how GM used to be again... Bill
  25. A few months ago I purchased a 1994 Cutlass Supreme SL from a guy in Palmerton, PA. My first car was a 2002 Olds Alero sedan, had many memories in that little thing. Crashed into a tree and then I didn't have a car for a while, then graduation present time? Nope just one big one from my uncle and I got a 1997 GTI vr6, and man let me tell you what... ALWAYS LISTEN TO THE WISE. My father kept telling me it's not going to be worth it, but it's my dream car, why turn it down? Drove it for about 3 days out of the 9 months I had it due to repairs and the mechanic working about as slow as a rock. I love my cutlass and I hope to learn while on this forum.
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