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walterdude

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walterdude last won the day on November 26 2018

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About walterdude

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  • Birthday 01/24/1956

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    Cheshire, CT
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  1. Be double sure to check the Sub Frame mounts,,, REAL GOOD!!! On My 93Z34 the mounts appeared to be in good shape,,, on the outside... However when I removed them they were trash,,, rusted and in pieces on the inside... I was battling weird steering issues for years!!! Sometimes it would pull to one side or the other under acceleration or braking... When I did my engine swap I got new ones because I wanted to replace anything that could wear out on the car... Wheel bearings,,, Engine/tranny mounts and any other mounts and basically anything that could cause trouble... Fixed the steering issues!!! Good luck,,, Tom B...
  2. walterdude

    2000 impala 3400

    http://www.milzymotorsports.com/3500-swap/ Scroll down to..... How do you do a 3500 Swap into a 3100 or 3400-powered vehicle? The first Item pertains to the external trigger... Here is another swap guide... http://www.60degreev6.com/vb5/forum/pushrod-engines/pushrod-performance/12077-3500-swap-questions Tom B...
  3. walterdude

    2000 impala 3400

    I could be wrong,,, but I seem to remember something about a 3500 swap needing an external crank trigger in order to run... It bolts to the crankshaft pulley... WOT Tech used to sell them... British Car Conversions sells them also... https://www.britishcarconversions.com/shop/trigger-kit-with-balancor If I recalled incorrectly,,, SORRY!!! I DO think that's right tho,,, Good Luck,,, Tom B...
  4. walterdude

    Found the leak...

    Actually that's exactly what I did when I replaced the engine/trans in my 93 Z34... I went from the heater core (I believe) to that weird piece where the hoses meet... 55T,,, you were looking for one a while ago,,, there was a difference between years and number of hoses and I think you tried welding at one point... It was a bit awkward but without the engine in the way I could route the hose so there were NO kinks and it didn't interfere with anything... I remember Jon,,, PocketRocket at 60* v6.com found a replacement... It was for a pushrod engine it worked fine on the DOHC... Good luck,,, Tom B...
  5. walterdude

    New to the site!

    Actually,,, I've NEVER done ANY Social Media crap and I don't miss it either!!! with the exception of this Forum and 60*v6.com... I'm sort of an OLD man,,, 63 and I just can't abide by most of the crap that everyone is dishing out!!! I had never even touched a computer until I was 41 or 42... Oh Well,,, that's enough of MY crap!!! Tom B...
  6. walterdude

    5 speed swap

    If you had another bolt to replace it,,, as a last resort you could grind the head off,,, remove the cog,,, and chances are the rest of the bolt will be hand tight... At least you'll be able to grab it with a pipe wrench or vice-grips... Good luck,,, Tom B... An air-impact gun would be a help also...
  7. Michael at FFP also recommended 250s... He said that was about the stock rate... I wanted some more stiffness,,, SO,,, I went with 300s... I had no complaints with that...However they made a lot of banging noises on bumps... Turns out the camber was WAY out... Had to file the bottom slot in the struts longer to adjust camber... Once I got it quieted down everything was cool... Michael had never really dealt with this issue before, BUT, he had had some questions asked about noise... We figured that was what was going on with other customers who had noise and he advised them of my problem/solution... So,,, in my opinion 300s are stiffer, but good... Tom B...
  8. If you DO ditch the Mono-Jeaf setup, it is recommended to add a larger diameter Anti-Sway bar... They can be sourced from another car... Michael from Fast Forward Performance modded one for his Z34... Can't tell you what car he got it from tho... Also numerous companies make larger diameter sway bars... That should make up for any loss of rigidity from removing the mono-leaf... Tom B...
  9. Is this thread locked??? Back again... No it's posting fine for me... Tom B...
  10. WAAAAAAY back I replaced the rubber pads... Back then most things were Dealer Items... Got the Pads from my Parts Manager/Friend at the local dealer, it came as a kit... It had some kind of Real Strong epoxy,,, 2 parts I believe... Back then there were NO plastic blocks,,, to my knowledge anyway... Using it as a spacer sounds good tho... I have NEVER heard that before... Then again,,, I have NO experience with the blocks or known of anyone who used them,,, other than what I read on forums,,, 60*v6 for many years and now here.. Tom B...
  11. walterdude

    96 CS sedan brakes.

    My 99 Lumina was a NON ABS car... My friend is Parts Manager at the Local Chevy dealer and nobody there could believe that there were ANY NON ABS Luminas made in that year... As far as anyone knew if it was ABS it would say it on the brake pedal... Of course mine didn't... EVERYONE at the dealer came out and looked!!! The surest way I know of checking is to look at the front wheels/brakes... if there are wires going to the sensor at the wheel bearings,,, it's ABS... Luck,, Tom B... I still HATE ABS!!!
  12. walterdude

    96 CS sedan brakes.

    Just as long as your Ws have discs on the rear.. If you've got drums that tool is useless!!! As for "renting" a tool,,, most Auto Parts Store will charge the cost of the item and refund your $$ when you return it.. So,,, it costs nothing in the end... Good luck,,, Tom B...
  13. walterdude

    96 CS sedan brakes.

    Yeah,,, that's the sucker!!! It REALLY does make life easier,,, See,, it compresses the piston like a C-Clamp would... Plus it turns the piston in... Awhile ago did the brakes on a VW Beetle and the ONLY way we could get it done was to get one of those sets... HAY!!! This post is the first post from my new (to me) computer!!! How's it look?!?!?! Tom B...
  14. walterdude

    96 CS sedan brakes.

    If you have trouble with that stupid cube thing you can "CAREFULLY" grab the piston with a Channel Locks or a pipe wrench... Gotta be REAL careful to grab at the very end,,, being SURE not to grab it where the seal rides... MUCH better choice,,, get one of the compressors that have a crank that turns the piston AND compresses the piston... Any Auto Parts Store should have a loaner,,, OR they are pretty cheap to buy... GOD!!! I HATE those cubes!!! Tom B...
  15. walterdude

    Unusual Knock from my Cutlass

    The 3100 is a pushrod engine and uses a timing chain only... The LQ1 uses a belt AND a chain... The chain part is a standard timing chain that runs from the crankshaft to a "Dummy" camshaft which turns the oil pump... It's in the stock camshaft location,,, It's just a shaft with no lobes on it... The belt portion runs from the camshaft to the valve gear, on the top of the heads... If I'm not mistaken GM worked with I'm pretty sure Lola on the head/camshaft/24 valve design... This post is kinda pointless... It does cover some facts about the GM pushrod vs GM DOHC engines that might not be known to all... Well,,, that's my story and I'm sticking to it!!! Tom B... If it WAS a DOHC engine,,, Yes, a timing belt would be in order...
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