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95GS last won the day on January 8 2017

95GS had the most liked content!

About 95GS

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  1. I don't know this model but the short (12 min.) 'review' may be of interest for GP owners. Hoovie's Garage on $2000 Grand Prix purchase:
  2. Ok well that was a little obvious, though I didn't see the two brackets to catch up on sleep.
  3. What point on the block is used to suspend the motor & transmission?
  4. Good write-up & photos. This helps me, thank you.
  5. Thanks Imp, I'm cleaning up the sites, looking for good metal.
  6. Thanks VIP - No, all tires are on pavement, but jacking on the subframe does raise the body somewhat. The 2" gap starts to close the more it is jacked, just haven't raised it all the way to see how close it will get, and I intend to wait until I'm re-assembling to push it that far. Most of the subframe is well oiled and by all appearances solid - it's those parts out of site which did not get the oil spray, such as these bolt through points. Nevertheless I've got two solid bricks either side of the jack, and will resort to logs or jack stands (if they'll fit) before I go to work. I'm weighing my options. 1 - quick plate repair so I can drive it to a welding shop for a better, still temp repair 2 - better plate repair w/ graded bolts to last until I change the subframe, forego welding for now, hardware already bought. 3 - dive in & remove subframe for replacement or quality repair by a pro. Hesitant as I'm away from home base & tools and have other duties. One appeal here is doing the job once. And dealing with issues like a rusty power steering tube I've seen running parallel to the subframe cross bar. Just not sure how many parts I'll break and have to change (& availability), and the scope of the job. I'll search on here for a subframe removal thread - if you know of one, pls. give post a link. I have an outdoor overhead support for the engine/transmission. 4 - looked at 120 volt welders which were on sale locally, and I'm pretty sure would do this job, but would need to consult first and get some practice. So might be impractical for now. But learning to weld should be in my repertoire if I'm going to drive old cars in this climate
  7. Last night was working on a cardboard template for a steel plate to cover the large hole in the subframe where the bolt & bushing assembly pulled through due to rust & fatigue. The plan is to fabricate one lower plate for each side with the proper bushing clearance holes, then have them welded in place. The old metal will have to be well cleaned up, prob. drill & wire brush or stone. No access for an angle grinder, don't own a die grinder. Given that the present base material is compromised, I'm thinking that 1/16 or 3/32 plate would be the maximum thickness, as welding anything thicker could burn through the old subframe material. Am I right on this? Suggestions?
  8. Ok I misunderstood - I thought you meant welding those plates in place, but now I see you meant either two plates OR welding. I think you're right, I could prob. do the sandwich repair using small graded bolts to hold it in place. Or enough to get it to a welding shop. I'm thinking. The welders I know are some distance away. There are local shops, and even a mobile welder. The jack is under the front transverse member of the subframe, the one with the power steering cooling lines attached. And yes jacking it higher closes the gap somewhat. Thanks for the help.
  9. If it's any consolation, I have oil in one side, the other is dry.
  10. I've had a better look and removed the other front bolt. There's enough remaining steel to show me the hole size, but this side will also need repair, before it pulls through too. Could you clarify the sandwich plate tip? Are you suggesting one above, one below? That's a solid design, but will it adversely affect the subframe level? Or negligible? Although I had it jack-supported, the subframe dropped over 2" at the front when unbolted. Is there a trick to getting it back up, besides buying longer bolts?
  11. I had heard/read that the oil served to cool the shock absorber.
  12. Doh! Thanks Imp - sometimes I miss the obvious.
  13. Bonus question This transverse member supports the radiator and will need replacement or repair (the other end looks good). Is this a bolt on item, or cut & weld? Does it serve another purpose besides rad support & some body stiffening?
  14. After some cleanup, here are the hardware & bushings. So the repair plate will require a hole just over 2" diameter to allow the bushings to "mate" through the plate, right?
  15. After some delays, finally got to lookin'. The bolt (front passenger corner of subframe nr. radiator) came out easily - barely 100 ft-lbs I'll guess, had only been sprayed once, two days prior. But it left a big hole, about 3.25" fore & aft, 3" left to right, which is about the entire width of the member, so not much purchase for an on-car-weld. When you suggested sandwiching two 1/8 plates, I'm guessing you mean for them both to be below (inside the channel), not one on top? That would mess up spacing and be difficult to do on the car, right? So the two thinner plates would be for ease of working/welding, and for strength. (1/4 inch plate would be unwieldy - am I reading that right Imp?) This photo's not great due to flash shadow, but gives an idea:
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