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sampuppy1

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  1. Sold locally. Sent from my XT1635-01 Tyler/T-Unit
  2. Price dropped to 1700 obo. Sent from my XT1635-01 Tyler/T-Unit
  3. Price is currently $2,000 obo Most of the regulars here have seen the build thread and have helped me get this thing to where it is. (a reliable daily driver). https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ew-body%2Ecom%2Findex%2Ephp%3F%2Ftopic%2F55358-T-Unit%27s-Boosted-Buick%2E-AKA-The-Granny-Slapper&share_tid=55358&share_fid=5731&share_type=t ////////// I bought the car just over a year ago. Body was in amazing shape for a northern car. Still has rockers, rear towers aren't blown to hell, and underside was pretty clean.//////// Immediately I started to make it my own. Got a set of nice headlights for it the first week, the second week a deer ran into the passenger side and blew one out. A week later the battery took a dump, a week later the second deer hit it, then the wife backed into it, then mechanical troubles galore.////////// Well, a year later I've finally got it to the point where it's been on the road consistently for months (two weeks was the average before now). There's just a few little things to tie up and everything will be right with it finally. But, it has just run me ragged and I have officially lost the drive to tie this one up. I have the money to do it, I have access to the parts, and I just don't have the ambition anymore. It's time for this car to move on to someone who can finish up the last few little things and thoroughly enjoy it for the nice car that it is, and not wonder what's going to go out on it next, Everytime I get in the seat.////////// With that said, here's the rundown. 2000 Buick Regal GS. Supercharged L67, 4t65eHD auto, heated leather, monsoon stereo, full folding rear seat, power sunroof. It's loaded. 245,640 on the recently repaired odometer/DIC.///////// Has two sets of wheels. One is a very nice set off of a Rendezvous. Currently wearing Firestone winterforces. The second set are the factory chromies, typical inner chrome peeling but still solid. I have about 17 different summer tires to choose from that should realistically go on the Rendezvous wheels. And the winterforces on the chromies. Also have a set of locking smoked chrome lugs for the nice wheels and the stock ones for the chromes. Sensors are on the chromes. Nice wheels don't have any so the light is on. I may just swap all the tires around onto the correct wheels if time passes//////// Stuff I have done to it - //// Interstate battery-March '17//// Gentex rearview mirror//////LIMGs - Fel-Pro/// oil pan - ZZP with Fel-Pro gasket//// water pump, failsafe thermostat, and coolant flush/////serpentine and supercharger belts and an idler pulley////// poly core support side dog bone bushings and new rubber bushings for engine side///// short dog bones will go with the car////// stainless fuel lines with new filter from classic tube. New plastic lines and fittings from Hardline back to tank. Also including a new fuel rail setup that's just chilling on my shelf ///// Rear brake lines have been replaced. The pain in the ass one is nicop (had to pay a shop to do it due to time constraints) and the other is pre bent stainless. The car will come with the rest of the pre bent stainless stuff I got from classic tube.///// LEDs in the cluster and rear interior lights. I think I did the trunk one too./////// Delco iridium plugs and top shelf AutoZone¿? Wires.///////Monroe quick struts out back//////valve cover gaskets - Fel-Pro////EGR blocked off - throws code////// cluster resistors soldered back on, didn't have any to replace them with at the time//////// As it stands now, the car runs and drives well. But it does need a couple things.////// Trailing arms in back need replaced. It wiggles around in the snow and ice as the suspension loads and unloads with traction loss and such////////resonator is blown out, down pipe sounds like it's leaking at the shielded flex section so it occasionally runs funny and it's loud as hell////////rear windows do not operate and it's been low on my priority list to track down the issue////// a/c doesn't work. Likely just needs a recharge since it slowly died off last summer.//////// Drivers side seat heater is in/op. Creature comfort I was not terribly concerned about//////tint is garbage. I was gonna save this for the last thing I did to make it look nice again but I haven't fixed everything yet so it never got done///// More updates will come as I find more stuff I've done. Feel free to pm me for contact info. I can get any pics you may want or videos and answer any questions you might have. Name is Tyler, thanks for your time. Sent from my XT1635-01 Tyler/T-Unit
  4. Block off is a negative. Still surging and stalling. Less surging now though. Only when coasting and after letting off the throttle quickly. Slow let off and the RPMs stay up. Sharp let off results in 500-750rpm idle while coasting or a little surge and dip until it stalls. Also decided to stumble pretty bad sitting at a stop light tonight. Had to pedal it to keep it running and it stumbled a bit before it would rev up. Once I got rolling it was smooth. I stood on it and it wound right out to redline and it was fine after. Might have to check into those crank sensor wires. The GP did something similar to me when they were rubbing on the serpentine belt. It would just die anywhere though. Full throttle highway pulls and it would just shut off, idling it would cut off and you'd never notice til you tried to take off. Tach would just drop out and that's how you knew it was gonna stall. This is a little different but it wouldn't hurt to check the wires. I'll have to see about finding a scanner. I can't sell this fucker if it dies on a test drive. Sent from my XT1635-01 Tyler/T-Unit
  5. I used some hi temp RTV, and cut a piece of aluminum flashing in the shape of the EGR valve pedestal. It's blocked off and sealed now. I let it sit overnight and all day today and I'll drive it to work tomorrow. Sent from my XT1635-01 Tyler/T-Unit
  6. Got a solution. I'm gonna pull the EGR. I've got some diamond plate aluminum laying around. Got some copper gasket maker and I'll trace, cut and drill my own block off plate. Or I've got some.sheet stock laying around I could make my own no hole gasket for. Wouldn't get rid of my code, but it'll solve the stall and sporadic idle issue. Sent from my XT1635-01 Tyler/T-Unit
  7. I'm gonna pull the valve and clean it up. Maybe get a no hole gasket and unplug it. Sent from my XT1635-01 Tyler/T-Unit
  8. Looks like I may have to mess with that then. It needed cleaned I do know that. And it very well could be stuck open. I'll have to get in there. Fixing what I know is broke.......Jesus. That's a long ass list. It needs a full exhaust system. Has a nasty leak somewhere by the down pipe. That could be causing it too. Upstream o2 getting false readings, EGR could be messed up. I really need a scanner. Sent from my XT1635-01 Tyler/T-Unit
  9. The light has been on for EGR valve. Fuel lines weren't that bad. The quick connect at the filter broke. I just replaced the lines and the rails as a precautionary measure. It only does this when it's cold. After it got to temp it coasts like it should. This could be a tcc issue as it should be keeping rpms up when coasting in line with the speed of the car and the corresponding gear. It has been a little lazy in locking the converter when cold too so that very well could be playing a part in this...... I'm getting really tired of this dang thing. I may just buy a nicer one and start over and keep this for parts or part it out. Sent from my XT1635-01 Tyler/T-Unit
  10. Anyone who has seen my build knows that this damn $60 car has been the bane of my existence since I bought it. After finishing the fuel lines this fall I started it and let it idle for awhile and at some point it quit. I figured air in the lines and it hasn't done anything since. I've notice it has sporatic variations in idle at random times. While coasting or after coming to a stop, the idle will rise and fall like I'm revving it a little. Today it has decided to drop so low it stalls......every time I coast to a stop. Anyone have an idea as to where I should start?? Sent from my XT1635-01 Tyler/T-Unit
  11. So I eventually did get the new pan in. It took a bit of playing with to get it in. Lots of trial and error I ended up wedging it close to where it had to be and then ever so gently tapped it past the hang up with a dead blow hammer. Also before putting the new pan on I'd take advantage of the opportunity to peek up into the underside of the block. I found coolant running into my crank case. So my oil pan job turned into lower intake gaskets. Sent from my XT1635-01 Tyler/T-Unit
  12. I'm leaning towards the sport editions. The stance wheels only come. In 19+ and I'm not putting 19s on the car. Sent from my XT1635-01 Tyler/T-Unit
  13. The more I look at that pic, the more I hate them as well. Sent from my XT1635-01 Tyler/T-Unit
  14. I found a set of these 2 hours away for about 200 bucks cheaper than I could get them new with only 300 miles on them. I may end up buying them. Sent from my XT1635-01 Tyler/T-Unit
  15. Yeah I avoid asking questions on facebook. I can tell that the regulars here are dedicated individuals. Very similar to how I am with my truck. I visit the GMT400 forum daily as well. I'm committed. I happen to have a new fuel rail for it. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Tyler/T-Unit
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