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snippits

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About snippits

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  • Birthday 01/01/1962
  1. snippits

    3.1 Plugs and Wires

    Ratchet strap is easy. Just don't roll the engine too far forward, and start putting pressure on the radiator hoses. I am due a plug change too. It's been a little bit over three years since I changed them. Guess I will keep on using the ACDelco conventional plugs AC R44LTSM since they have been doing good. New set of wires installed last plug change, so I hope they come off easy. I did use dielectric grease on the boots.
  2. My digital cluster like the one you have started flashing on and off randomly. I have a 92 Cutlass Supreme S 4 door. There is a shop on Ebay that repairs these clusters. I just traded my old one in, and got one that had been rebuilt. It was in the description that KM mode would be disabled. He does not reset the mileage. The rebuilt one I got had about 91,000 miles on it. Anyway, the rebuilt cluster has been working just fine for a couple years now. His price has practically doubled since I bought mine, and last time I checked he had only one left for trade in. The cluster that he does have left has a new lens installed. I used my old lens on the rebuilt cluster I got. A new lens for these clusters are expensive. https://www.ebay.com/itm/88-93-REBUILT-CUTLASS-SUPREME-DIGITAL-INSTRUMENT-CLUSTER-115k-miles-50-REBATE/270771072643
  3. Lower intake end gasket started leaking oil on my 92 Cutlass 3.1, so I am going to replace the gasket some time in the near future. I am going to buy one of the push rod removal tools, so I don't have to unbolt the rockers.
  4. snippits

    Trunk leaks

    My rear driver side carpet was getting wet. The driver side rear door rubber seal was loose. Cleaned the rubber seal real good, and then glued it back to where it was supposed to be. No more leaks. Luckily, I did not have to buy new door seals.
  5. I have the NAPA plastic blocks installed for about 25,000 miles or so now, and I don't have any problems as of yet. Spring looks like it is still holding up OK.
  6. snippits

    Trunk leaks

    Mine was leaking on a 92 Cutlass Supreme. Installed a new trunk gasket, and that stopped most of the leaks. If it rained really hard just a little bit of water was getting in, and I could not find out where. Finally found that it was leaking at seams where seam sealer was used at the factory.
  7. One other thing I forgot to mention. My front calipers have double pistons. I clamped the flexible brake hose, and then opened the bleeder valve. I have a Lisle 24400 disc brake pad spreader. I left the old inboard pad installed, and then used the tool to push the pistons back in. Even though I had the tool centered over the double pistons, both pistons would not go in evenly at the same time. I re-positioned the tool over the center of each piston only going in a little bit each time switching back and forth until they fully seated. Don't push one piston in all the way because the other piston might pop out.
  8. On my 92, it's in front of the rear left tire on the under body. Look up underneath at the driver's side passenger door on a sedan. You will see it if it's the same as mine. I held the threaded rod with a 5 mm wrench, and then turned the adjusting nut with another wrench.
  9. Changed the front rotors and pads on my 92 Cutlass Supreme a few weeks ago. Changed just the pads on the back. The rear factory solid rotors looked fine to me. Turn your wheels all the way to the right or left when removing the caliper brackets on the front. Makes it easier to get a good shot at the caliper bracket bolts. It does take a T-60. I did not have one, so I had to buy a GearWrench 1/2 drive T-60 from Advance Auto. It was not an impact T-60. Nobody had an impact T-60 in stock locally. The front caliper bracket bolts are on there good 148 ft. lbs.. I soaked them with Liquid Wrench, and then used a 600 ft lbs reverse torque impact, and they would not move. Got out my big breaker bar, and all but one came with some good grunts. That last one was a bear, but I finally got it out. My boots for the front calipers were still in good shape no tears. I did have a new set to install that I bought from RockAuto cheap. Basically, all you do is use a flat head screw driver, and pry the metal part of the boot that seats up against the boot bore away from the boot bore. Clean it all up, and then install the new one. I did not do it because my boots were good, but that's the way I was going to do it. Next time it needs new front pads I will change the boots. The parking brake cable adjustment is on the left rear side on my 92. If you loosen the adjuster nut,(move it towards the hood) both rear caliper parking brake cables will be a piece of cake to take off and put back. Adjust the nut as far it will go towards the front. Spray some penetrating spray on the parking brake cable threaded shaft before turning the nut because they can get dirty and rusty. Your rear parking brake cables on the 96 might be different than my 92, so disregard if that's the case.
  10. I have a can of ACDelco 10-4019 silicone brake lubricant that I got from RockAuto when I was ordering various parts. It's silicone infused with PTFE. $18.54 a can at RockAuto. Ever since I lost reverse in the Oldsmobile transmission(fixed now), I have been OCD over the rear brakes. Servicing calipers is a lot cheaper than transmissions. I just did a complete brake job all the way around plus new rotors on the front.
  11. Looks to be a good home made tool/idea. I checked the slider pins last week on the rear caliper that has been installed for about 18 months, and the pins are still moving back and forth but they are getting slow. I bet they are going to lock up again. It's never ending with these rear calipers. I lost reverse in my transmission because my wife was driving it, and did not tell me the rear caliper was grabbing after she released the park brake. The car is parked on a down slope, and gets backed out of the drive way. Dang sure don't want that to happen again. Hopefully, when I get the rubber boots off, the slider pins come right out, and there is no rust or corrosion. The Wagner kit mentions emery cloth is needed, and I have plenty of that. I was just going to wrap some emery cloth around a wooden dowel, and have at it.
  12. Going to service the rear left caliper slider pins with the Wagner kit soon. The OTC service kit is not absolutely necessary, but it will make the job easier if you have stuck pins and dirty bores. Will be easier to service if you have OTC 7639 GM W-Body Brake Bushing Service Set. It includes a bushing driver, 180 grit hone, and a 1-1/4 inch wire brush. The bushing driver is used to drive out stuck slider pins. The hone cleans the bores where the slider pins are installed. The wire brush cleans the grooves where the rubber boots seat into the bore. https://www.otctools.com/products/gm-w-body-brake-bushing-service-set
  13. I already had a safety pin on standby! I read your thread, and thanks for all the information. Lisle 14900 GM terminal tool might work, but it looks to be awkward to use. https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/terminal-tool-for-gm
  14. What is the equivalent of the tool J35689A to remove the terminals from the connector on the turn signal switch?
  15. snippits

    Digital Cluster

    My 92 Cutlass Supreme S sedan has the base digital. It was flickering on and off, and I finally bought a rebuilt one from an Ebay seller.
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