UA-65274002-1 Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Donations

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Human last won the day on September 5 2018

Human had the most liked content!

About Human

  • Rank
  • Birthday 11/06/1963

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. If the GP is anything like my '95 Cutlass Supreme, it's pretty easy to take off. No special tools needed, just screwdrivers. You'll need a flat blade screwdriver to pry off the little cups behind the door handles and Phillips screwdrivers for several more screws at various other spots. The screw that's often overlooked on the Cutlass Supreme is in the bottom of the door pocket. Someone overlooked it on mine and tore it up on the driver's side. I need to find a new one but the only one I've ever seen at a boneyard was similarly damaged. Also, be prepared and have a supply of the nylon fasteners that hold the panel in place because you'll definitely need to replace at least a few of them. Fortunately, they're pretty cheap.
  2. Yeah Botswana is just about as far away from Ohio as you can get. The idea of the metal strip sounds like a good one. I look forward to seeing the photos if you remember to take them, but if that doesn't happen, I'll understand.
  3. Yes, the glass rear window is coming loose from the top along the right hand vertical edge. Oldmangimes: You were exactly right. That rod had slipped almost two inches toward the driver's side. Other issues at play here are that most of the staples have pulled out along the bottom of the rear curtain (nice to have proper vocabulary to use here) as well as on the sides (see photos, which were taken with the top up but unlatched at the windshield). I'd really like to not have to replace the top in the near future. It's in very good shape, other than these minor issues.
  4. So the new flasher module came yesterday and I just put it in a few minutes ago. It does exactly the same thing the original did. Very slow flashing on the turn signals and normal flash interval on the hazard blinkers. The one that came out and the one I replaced it with are both 552 flashers, designed to drive six bulbs, according to the box the new one came in. I'm thinking part of the problem may be the broken hazard flasher button. It won't stay down on its own without a lot of coaxing and as I moved the button from side to side, the passenger side flashers will momentarily stop working and if I ever get the button to stay down, it's the very devil to get it to release and come back up. I may make a pilgrimage to the boneyard tomorrow to see if I can harvest a button and go from there. UPDATE: A little while after I wrote the above, I cranked the car up to move it back under the carport and just for fun, I tried the turn signals. They were sluggish at first, but after a few seconds they were blinking at a fairly normal rate.
  5. A lot of work to be done there, but she can be saved.
  6. Over the past few months, I've noticed my rear window is hanging a little low on the passenger side and when I examined it more closely yesterday, I found that it is actually pulling loose to the point that I can slip my hand around the window and into the car. Nothing feels torn, so I think something has just slipped out of its channel maybe, but I know nothing about convertible tops. Any ideas on how to fix this? I'm really not ready to go down the duct tape trail yet.
  7. I had last driven the car Sunday a week ago, so the map light had been on for a little over a week. I have no idea how old the battery is but it's safe to assume it's at least two to three years old. It was in the car when I got it a little more than a year ago. The previous owner had not driven the car in about a year when I bought it but he had kept the battery on a trickle charger during that time. It's a good quality Interstate battery and it has never failed to start the car—until yesterday. The turn signals have always blinked slowly (a little more than a second for a complete blink cycle) as long as I've had the car. The hazard flashers blink at about twice that rate.
  8. Thanks for that information. I ordered a new flasher module from RockAuto because it was cheap and we'll see if that helps. But today I kept messing with it and eventually got it to work At first, it was still doing the rear only thing, but eventually it started working with only the left panel indicator blinking. Walking around the car showed all the flashers working, except for the right front. When I tried the right turn signal, everything on that side worked fine and then the flashers worked fine. Weird. But through all that, a new problem has arisen in that it the flasher button on the steering column won't stay pushed down. I have to hold it down and wiggle it around to get it to stay, then it takes a little more pushing and wiggling to get it to release. The button eventually came out in my hand and one corner is broken off at the bottom, where it attaches inside the steering column. If it's not one thing, it's another.
  9. So I had the convertible out this evening and for whatever reason started to get slightly irritated by how slowly the turn signals were blinking (they've been very slow for as long as I've owned the car). By the time I got home, I had become curious as to whether the hazard blinkers were that slow also, so once in the driveway, I turned them on and from the driver's seat, it looked like they weren't working at all. But when I got out of the car, the taillights were blinking (at a more normal interval than the turn signals) but the front lights weren't and neither were the panel indicators. These lights work just fine when either turn signal is flashing. The car passed a sate safety inspection last August so the flashers must have been working then. I did have a dead battery this afternoon (I had left a map light switched on) and the car, of course, wouldn't start. I put the charger on it in the 60A "Start" mode but It still didn't start so I shifted it to the 10A charging mode and let it sit for two hours, after which it still wouldn't quite start on its own. When I turned the charger back to "Start" mode, it cranked right up. The only odd thing was the parking brake light on the instrument panel was on, even though the brake was most definitely off. I set and released the brake a couple of times but it stayed on, so I decided to go out for a drive to further charge the battery. After about 40 minutes, I parked the car, then went out about an hour later and it cranked up just fine and the parking brake light was off, as it should be. I'm not sure what's going on, whether I fried something with the battery charger or the inspection station just missed that the hazards weren't fully working or perhaps verified them from the rear. Any suggestions of what I should check?
  10. The plastic hinges on the '95-'97 model Cutlass Supremes were notoriously fragile. My '95 convertible came to me with a broken hinge. It looked like the previous owner had tried to JB Weld it to no avail. Most of the ones I've seen on yards have broken hinges as well. I ended up getting a tan armrest lid from a '96 CS sedan to go on it but I only used the underside and swapped my graphite one over to it. The two halves are held together with about six screws. Except for not having any cupholders, the earlier version ('88-'94) was a superior design. I've wondered also whether a console out of a similar vintage Monte Carlo might work. The Monte Carlo dashboard looks essentially the same, at least the structural part does, except the positions of the climate controls and radio are reversed and the climate control is just three knobs that stick through three holes in the dash bezel. Just different enough to be incompatible but the console might be a different matter. The lids on those do have metal hinges.
  11. So a few minutes after I made my second post, I tried to put the mirror back on the anchor button and the button promptly came off the windshield! I went back to O'Reilly, where I had gotten the adhesive kit and the guy behind the counter was very nice about it and gave me another kit at no charge. I went through the whole process again, cleaned everything off and re-attached the anchor button. Even though the instructions only call for 30 minutes curing time, I'm letting it cure a full 24 hours before I try to put the mirror back on. I've done at least 10 mirrors like this and I've never had so much trouble one mirror on. I was reading online that Ultra Grey silicone can be successfully used for this purpose. Prep the windshield and anchor button as you would for a regular adhesive kit, then put a dot of Ultra Grey on the anchor button, mash it onto the windshield and hold it in place for a couple of minutes, then tape the button down with painter's tape for about 24 hours before hanging the mirror on it. If this second attempt with the adhesive kit fails, the third time with Ultra Grey may be the charm.
  12. Okay, I solved it. The little slot turned out to be a red herring. The trick is to pry with a flat tip screwdriver from the top, curved end, rather than from the bottom where the slot is. So I've now got the anchor stuck back into place on the windshield and I'm waiting for the adhesive to cure so I can actually put the mirror back on the anchor. I briefly considered replacing the original mirror with a self-dimming, compass mirror that I took out of a '99 Park Avenue a few years ago, but the electrical connectors are different and it would have meant losing a significant part of my working interior illumination since the dome lights on the faux roll bar don't work. If it were a little cooler out and I were less busy today, I'd take it out for a celebratory drive. I'll be driving the car for a couple of days next week, regardless of the temperature, since my Impala will be in the shop getting some minor repairs done. I just hope it doesn't rain before I get the Impala back since the 'Vert isn't all that weather tight. It also doesn't have working air conditioning, so It'll be a little uncomfortable if the temperature gets above about 84 degrees.
  13. So yesterday, as I was putting the top up on my CS convertible, the rear view mirror decided to drop off of the windshield just as the top made its final touchdown. I got one of those little adhesive kits, which I've used many times, but I've got a slight conundrum this time. The little metal anchor is firmly attached to the mirror and I don't see how to release it. There's a little slot at the bottom, into which a screwdriver will fit but once in there, I don't feel anything to push, twist or pry to release it. I checked the factory service manual and it shows the mirror held in with a set screw. Mine doesn't have a set screw. Any insights would be welcomed and appreciated.
  14. I picked one up from a boneyard for about $15 shortly after I got my '95 vert. I didn't need it--still don't--but it's god to have on hand for when the inevitable happens. In my experience, you just need to look for one that's fully retracted and the odds are greatly in your favor that it works just fine. Of course, you pay your money and take your chances on how long it will work but for less than a tenth the cost of a new one, I think it's a pretty good gamble, considering you could replace it several times and still come out ahead.
  15. I have the same thing on the tops of my front fenders. The clear coat has separated from the color coat underneath but is still intact. It hasn't started peeling up. I guess it's only a matter of time before that happens.
  • Create New...