UA-65274002-1 Jump to content

Human

Members
  • Content Count

    52
  • Donations

    $0.00 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Human last won the day on September 5 2018

Human had the most liked content!

About Human

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 11/06/1963

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. The plastic hinges on the '95-'97 model Cutlass Supremes were notoriously fragile. My '95 convertible came to me with a broken hinge. It looked like the previous owner had tried to JB Weld it to no avail. Most of the ones I've seen on yards have broken hinges as well. I ended up getting a tan armrest lid from a '96 CS sedan to go on it but I only used the underside and swapped my graphite one over to it. The two halves are held together with about six screws. Except for not having any cupholders, the earlier version ('88-'94) was a superior design. I've wondered also whether a console out of a similar vintage Monte Carlo might work. The Monte Carlo dashboard looks essentially the same, at least the structural part does, except the positions of the climate controls and radio are reversed and the climate control is just three knobs that stick through three holes in the dash bezel. Just different enough to be incompatible but the console might be a different matter. The lids on those do have metal hinges.
  2. So a few minutes after I made my second post, I tried to put the mirror back on the anchor button and the button promptly came off the windshield! I went back to O'Reilly, where I had gotten the adhesive kit and the guy behind the counter was very nice about it and gave me another kit at no charge. I went through the whole process again, cleaned everything off and re-attached the anchor button. Even though the instructions only call for 30 minutes curing time, I'm letting it cure a full 24 hours before I try to put the mirror back on. I've done at least 10 mirrors like this and I've never had so much trouble one mirror on. I was reading online that Ultra Grey silicone can be successfully used for this purpose. Prep the windshield and anchor button as you would for a regular adhesive kit, then put a dot of Ultra Grey on the anchor button, mash it onto the windshield and hold it in place for a couple of minutes, then tape the button down with painter's tape for about 24 hours before hanging the mirror on it. If this second attempt with the adhesive kit fails, the third time with Ultra Grey may be the charm.
  3. Okay, I solved it. The little slot turned out to be a red herring. The trick is to pry with a flat tip screwdriver from the top, curved end, rather than from the bottom where the slot is. So I've now got the anchor stuck back into place on the windshield and I'm waiting for the adhesive to cure so I can actually put the mirror back on the anchor. I briefly considered replacing the original mirror with a self-dimming, compass mirror that I took out of a '99 Park Avenue a few years ago, but the electrical connectors are different and it would have meant losing a significant part of my working interior illumination since the dome lights on the faux roll bar don't work. If it were a little cooler out and I were less busy today, I'd take it out for a celebratory drive. I'll be driving the car for a couple of days next week, regardless of the temperature, since my Impala will be in the shop getting some minor repairs done. I just hope it doesn't rain before I get the Impala back since the 'Vert isn't all that weather tight. It also doesn't have working air conditioning, so It'll be a little uncomfortable if the temperature gets above about 84 degrees.
  4. So yesterday, as I was putting the top up on my CS convertible, the rear view mirror decided to drop off of the windshield just as the top made its final touchdown. I got one of those little adhesive kits, which I've used many times, but I've got a slight conundrum this time. The little metal anchor is firmly attached to the mirror and I don't see how to release it. There's a little slot at the bottom, into which a screwdriver will fit but once in there, I don't feel anything to push, twist or pry to release it. I checked the factory service manual and it shows the mirror held in with a set screw. Mine doesn't have a set screw. Any insights would be welcomed and appreciated.
  5. I picked one up from a boneyard for about $15 shortly after I got my '95 vert. I didn't need it--still don't--but it's god to have on hand for when the inevitable happens. In my experience, you just need to look for one that's fully retracted and the odds are greatly in your favor that it works just fine. Of course, you pay your money and take your chances on how long it will work but for less than a tenth the cost of a new one, I think it's a pretty good gamble, considering you could replace it several times and still come out ahead.
  6. I have the same thing on the tops of my front fenders. The clear coat has separated from the color coat underneath but is still intact. It hasn't started peeling up. I guess it's only a matter of time before that happens.
  7. So ever since I got my '95 Cutlass Supreme convertible almost nine months ago, it's had an odd quirk in that it won't trigger the automatic shutoff at the gas pump. The first couple of times I filled the tank, I had a small fuel spill underneath on the passenger side--until today. I was very surprised when I was gassing it up today and the pump shut off! After the first two fueling mishaps, I had worked out a little procedure where I would put 10 gallons of gas in the car when the gauge was just below a quarter tank. Today, I was right at a quarter and the pump shut off just before the nine-gallon mark. When I got back in the car and turned it on, the gauge came up a little above the full mark so it was well and truly full without overflowing. Even better, when I got home there was no gasoline odor, which I usually experience when the tank is full. I'm thinking that when I got the rear struts replaced this week, the technician may have noticed a loose line and put it back in place without saying anything about it. If that's the case, I'm thankful but I'm not going to consider it permanently fixed until I fill up successfully a couple more times.
  8. I've noticed a few times that my '95 CS convertible has what I'd call a sloppy shifter. Sometimes when I put it in what I think is 'D', it's really in '3'. I don't really notice it until I get up to highway speeds (above 45 or 50 mph) and then I notice the engine is revving too high without acceleration to match. I can easily address the issue by giving the shifter a slight nudge forward and I'll instantly feel a little click as it goes into 'D' but the shift lever barely moves and the lighted gear indicator remains in 'D' before and after. The car has 122,000 miles on it and the transmission was rebuilt somewhere around 96,000 miles. Other than that little quirk, which I assume is a worn detent, the transmission works smooth as silk. I try to remember to give the shifter a little nudge whenever I put it into 'D' but I sometimes forget.
  9. Yeah, I got the oil changed in my '95 'vert last week and the guy down in the pit thought he was working on a Pontiac Bonneville--not a Grand Prix but a Bonneville. Business was slow so he came up and we chatted for a couple of minutes. He was in his early-to-mid twenties and thought any car older than a 2000 model was a "survivor". He said he's working on fixing up an "old school" Saturn coupe. As a community college professor, I find the perspective of the younger generation to be an endless source of amusement.
  10. Now that the spring semester is over and I have a few weeks before summer classes begin, I've been turning my attention to getting some things fixed on my '95 vert. After an oil change and a good washing to get the pollen off, I took it yesterday to get some new rear struts installed, which it desperately needed. The difference in the ride is night and day. Of course, as garages will do, they found something else to add to the laundry list. It needs rear brake pads and rotors really badly, so that's next on the list, perhaps along with getting the ABS system working again or maybe not. Looks like the air conditioner will have to wait a bit longer but it will all get done eventually. The good news is I got to see underneath the car for the first time and while there is some rust (the car came from Pennsylvania) it's not as bad as I thought it might be. It's more surface rust than cancerous rot but it still needs to be watched.
  11. So I tried to install the actuator last week and ended up bruising a rib on the center console, trying to contort myself into a position to get at it. I'm thinking I may have to remove the driver's seat to be able to get under the dash but I'm going to let my rib heal up first. What a pain!
  12. My dad bought a '94 3.4 coupe for my nephew about 10 years ago. I thought the rear bucket seats were the coolest feature of the car. I was mildly disappointed that my '95 has a rear bench seat. I doubt I'll ever find a rear bucket seat set--heck, I've only seen one Cutlass Supreme on a junk yard since I've owned my vert--but it would be a cool upgrade.
  13. Thanks for the heads-up on that. I'll check and make sure everything's securely in place when I replace the actuator.
  14. That's my thinking. I've ordered the part and will have it in hand late next week. It was less than $10 shipped, so hopefully that will fix it.
  15. Sunday evening, on a two-hour drive home from visiting family for Easter, the outside temperature was in the low 50s (got down to 48 by the time I got home) and I noticed I couldn't warm up the passenger side of my 2011 Impala. With the vents set to blow air out of the upper vents and two temperature controls all the way up in the 'hot' position, I could move my hand back and forth between the two sides of the center panel vent and the contrast in temperature could not be more extreme. The driver's side vent was blowing ice cold while the passenger side was blowing blazin' hot air. I eventually closed the two driver's side vents and aimed the passenger side vent my way to get some warmer air. Had this been January instead of April, it could have been a whole lot worse. A couple of years ago, I had to replace the vent door actuator on the far passenger side--the one that opens and closes the door that brings in air from the outside--when it started making the telltale clicking sound that indicates the plastic gears inside the actuator are stripped out. This time, there is no clicking. It just plain doesn't work. I'm assuming the little motor in the actuator just to the right of the steering column has failed. Am I correct in this diagnosis? The part is fairly inexpensive when ordered online (about $10 or so vs. six times that or more from a local parts house or stealership) YouTube videos I've watched show it to be a little bit of a PITA to get to but otherwise a pretty straightforward part swap. It seems these actuators are an achilles heel on this generation Impala and other GM cars that use this particular part. In five years of owning this car, this is the worst that's gone wrong with it so far, so I can't really complain. As the weather continues to warm up, this will be a less pressing issue for the next few months--and less irritating since it's not making that damned clicking noise--but it does need to be addressed. Can anyone confirm that I'm looking in the right direction with this?
×
×
  • Create New...