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Human last won the day on September 5 2018

Human had the most liked content!

About Human

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  • Birthday 11/06/1963

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  1. I can't freakin' believe I did this. I was backing the Vert out of the carport this afternoon, caught the passenger mirror on one of the support posts, and snapped it right off. The carport is only 10 ft. wide, so I have to pull the car way to the right to be able to open the driver's door and to get the garbage and recycling carts past the car on the left side. The last time I pulled it in, I just got a bit too close and wasn't watching closely enough when I was backing out. Dumb mistake on my part. I checked the inventories at the two salvage yards I use and they didn't have a W-body Cutlass in stock from which to harvest a mirror, but I've got a couple on my eBay watch list. Anybody know if any other W-body mirrors are compatible with a Cutlass Supreme? The nice thing is all the CS mirrors were black, so matching the color isn't an issue, as long as the finish is in decent shape; otherwise, I'll be getting a rattle can of gloss black and hoping for the best. My spray painting skills aren't exactly the best. As a short-term fix--or maybe long-term, depending on how well it goes---I got a tube of JB Weld this evening and I plan to try to glue the mirror back together this weekend. It looks like a pretty clean break along the base, so maybe it'll work okay. I certainly have nothing to lose by trying.
  2. Human

    Z34 swag

    Nice! I've always liked the lines of that generation Monte.
  3. Now that everything's buttoned up, there's really not much to see other than a button on the dash and cable hanging out on the passenger side where the console and dash come together. To me, that's part of what makes it an elegant solution. The modulator is an Eiger Vision EV-F120 (see link below). You can tune its output frequency anywhere along the FM spectrum. It does require a pair of antenna adapters to fit it into a '90s GM car. I think I paid about $20 for the modulator itself back around 2011. With adapters, switch and output cable, I think I may have $30, give or take, in the whole setup. The only thing I still have left to do—and it can wait until the weather warms up a little—is to pull the dash bezel back out and clean up around where I drilled it out for the switch. I've got some Rustoleum hammer texture black paint that's a perfect color match but a little glossier than the factory finish. That stuff is very forgiving and the texture will cover a world of sins. I'll probably just mask off the vents and paint the entire bezel instead of just spotting in around the switch. I've already painted the passenger side corner where I had to sand off a big glob of super glue where somebody had stuck on a belt clip for a cell phone. It was a cool idea but poorly executed. The new paint job will give it a subtle custom look. Meanwhile, the original dash bezel is stored in my barn for safekeeping.
  4. Yes. It connects physically to the radio's antenna jack and the car's antenna plugs into it, so when active it interrupts the antenna and inserts its own signal. It's the same principle that VCRs used back in the day. The unit is equipped with two RCA plugs to which I have connected a cable with RCA plugs on one end and a 3.5mm male plug on the other. I keep the cable tucked up under the dash when not in use.
  5. This was a little project I'd had in mind for a while to allow me to bring the OEM Delco radio in my '95 Cutlass convertible into the twenty-first century by enabling it to play music from my phone or iPod. I have this hard wired FM modulator that I'd originally put in a Pontiac Bonneville I had a few years ago and then later transferred it to the Olds LSS that replaced it. It works much better than the ones that plug into the cigarette lighter socket and use a low powered FM transmitter. I needed a few things besides the modulator to bring the project together, namely a switch to turn the modulator on and off and a second instrument panel bezel from the boneyard so I wouldn't have to mess the original one up by drilling a hole to mount the switch. Finding the correct spot for the switch required a bit of measuring to make sure there was sufficient clearance behind it. Positioning the modulator itself was much easier since there's a nice little alcove inside the dash, right next to the radio's niche that's exactly the right size for the modulator and its wires but it did take a couple of attempts to get everything sufficiently tucked in to allow the radio and dash bezel to go back into place the way they should. The only thing that didn't quite go as planned is the push button switch works backward from how I expected it to. Somehow, I've got it where the radio plays normally when the button is pushed in and its LED is lit and the FM modulator is activated when the button is in the "out" position with the LED off and the radio is tuned to 87.7 FM. I'm not sure what I did wrong but at least for now, I decided to cut my losses and leave it alone. Someday, when I'm really, bored and looking for trouble, I may try moving wires around on the power switch to see if I can make it behave the way I want it to. The modulator also acts as an amplifier so I don't have to crank the volume on my phone all the way up to be barely audible like I do when I play it through the auxiliary input jack on my Impala's Delco/Bose radio.
  6. You're absolutely right. It's always better to test things like that as a system.
  7. Good idea. I'll keep an eye out for one. The trick will be finding a switch cluster that also has a fog light switch.
  8. Thanks. I'd still like to figure out what's causing the dash lights to spontaneously dim and brighten like that.
  9. So I drove the convertible this afternoon and didn't get home until after dark. Sitting in rush hour traffic, I had some time to observe the dash lights. The first thing I noticed is they would noticeably dim while I was sitting at a stop light but then brighten up a little bit once I got back under way but would dim down again at the next red light. While sitting at another long light I ran the dimmer thumb wheel up and down rapidly for a few seconds and the dash lights got a bit brighter so when I got home, I grabbed my can of CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner and spritzed it in around the little thumb wheel. The result was a noticeably brighter instrument cluster. I can't say that this represents a definitive cure or that it will even stay bright but it's a step in the right direction.
  10. I don't drive my '95 Cutlass Supreme convertible much at night--and now that the weather has gotten cold, I'm not driving it much at all. But when I do drive it at night, I notice the dash lights are ridiculously dim, just barely bright enough to let me know they're on. There don't appear to be any burned out lights; they're just not all that bright. While I may be more than a little spoiled by the dash lights on my 2011 Impala, I do feel the ones on the Cutlass should be brighter. My '95 Aurora's dash lights are not all that bright either, but they are noticeably brighter than these. Any suggestions?
  11. Human

    Front suspension fail

    Ouch! Glad no one was hurt. That's the most important thing. Hope you can get her back on the road. That looks almost just like my '95 'Vert. I'd be pretty sick if that happened to mine.
  12. Human

    W bodies with the Wrong stock wheels

    I almost became a statistic on this one. I have my dad's 2002 Silhouette van, which I'm trying to sell for my mom. Just before he went into the nursing home, Dad put a nice set of Pirellis on it and the tires are the same size as on my '95 Cutlass Supreme convertible, which came to me a couple of months ago with a fairly new set of El Dorado (never heard of that brand) tires. I seriously considered swapping the van's tires and wheels over onto the convertible and the convertible's tires and wheels onto the van. I did some measurements and I think the offsets are pretty close on the two wheels where they would have worked, but in the end, I just couldn't bring myself to do it so instead, I replaced the convertible's original lug nuts with their ugly plastic covers (amazingly, all the covers were still there) with a set of nice chrome lug nuts.
  13. Human

    Stock radio swap

    Double-din Oldsmobile head units (1994-2000) should fit in a Buick although the steering wheel controls might function a little differently. I had a Buick AM/FM/CD/cassette unit in my '95 Olds Aurora that was a plug-and-play installation except the steering wheel controls took on the functions they would have had in a Buick. The volume control was in the same place (upper right) but the temperature and tuning controls were reversed so that the tuning controls were on the lower left and the temperature was on the lower right. Instead of controlling the fan, the switch on the upper left was source and mute. It was confusing at first, but then wasn't so bad once I got used to it. Although I missed having the fan control on the steering wheel, I found I generally preferred the Buick unit over the Olds unit it replaced. I still have that Buick radio and it may well find its way into my '95 Cutlass Supreme convertible.
  14. Human

    01 Monte Carlo Headlights stuck on

    Yeah, pulling the light sensor might fix it. I had to do that on a '97 Cadillac I used to have. The sensor went wonky and it would go into DRL mode, regardless of how dark it was outside, which meant I didn't have dash lights. Once I pulled the sensor, it worked just fine as a manual system.
  15. Human


    I've always found that Rock Auto's attractive prices are almost always nullified by expensive shipping charges so news of hassle-filled returns only further pushes me away from ordering from them.