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About Dinsdale

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  • Birthday 07/24/1957


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    Poland.....avoiding shipping costs when possible :)
  1. Dinsdale

    Getting parts looking good...before and after photos

    I will indeed! I've done this before with no problems. When I've bought new rotors they've always been smeared with a greasy protective covering which needs cleaning off. The rotors I'm working on now have just been machined, so the pad contact areas are flat. Cheers!
  2. Dinsdale

    Getting parts looking good...before and after photos

    I've only ever done the one oil treatment after cleaning a part up. You might get even better results by leaving the oil on for longer/doing repeated applications. Apart from the visual aspect, it makes it better for assembling a caliper when it's still on the car, connected by the hose. All the dust disappears, so I was able to get everything inserted and greased without any ingress of unwantables. After tapping off the rusty blemishes, you can try scratching the object all over with a good, hard pointy file. Just keep scratching away all over in small swirly motions until there's no longer any dust coming off, then brush on the oil.
  3. Dinsdale

    Getting parts looking good...before and after photos

    After the chisel tapping, the parts were still brown and grim looking. There's some magic that goes on with the oil.......all traces of crappiness disappear and the cool finish appears. I wear ear protectors during the procedure because the noise starts setting my teeth on edge. The only thing to be careful about is not tapping too hard and leaving marks on the part. The chisel I use is very hard indeed, and I let it's weight do the work.......just keep dropping it repeatedly on those bits which are obviously rusty surface blemishes. Sometimes I'll lightly use a flap disk on an angle grinder after the first round of tapping. This doesn't remove these blemishes, it just polishes them and make them easier to see. Then it's back to work with the chisel. It's quick to learn how to figure what is integral with the part and what is now just crap stuck on to it
  4. I don't know what kind of grease was in there, but it was grey. I wasn't having much luck pushing in bits of bandage to get the old grease out, for fear of doing some damage, and I didn't want to use any petrol or chemicals. The new grease is a deep lilac color. I broke the round end off a chopstick and with it inserted a blob of new grease into the bores, and wiggled it about a bit to mix things up. Then I pushed the pin bolt all the way into the bores, then pulled it back out. I could see the mix of colors on the pin, so I wiped it clean. I wiped the chopstick end clean, and inserted another blob of fresh grease into each bore........I kept doing this until there was no difference in color between the fresh new grease and the stuff coming out on the pin. Then I gave each bore another three workings, just to make sure. Totally tedious, but it worked for me.
  5. I put this in General because it applies to any metal part that's looking crusty. The method is simplicity itself. I have a good, hard chisel about six inches long, and I use this to tap off anything that will come off the part. I scratch with a pointy file for places where the chisel won't fit. Then I brush on old diesel engine oil and leave it for a few hours. I think the chemicals in the oil etch into the metal of the part, but I'm just guessing here. Then get some rags and polish off the oil. The attached pictures show the results. I don't have a "before" picture of the caliper, but it looked pretty grim. It doesn't take too long on a brake set up, maybe an hour or depends on how good a finish you want. The finished product is a pleasure to look at, and should rust more slowly afterwards. I didn't use any sandpaper or the like, just the tapping with the chisel.
  6. The rotors were recently machined, and the brown you saw on the pad area is just very light coloring caused by the damp air we have here at the moment. The guy who did the machining did just that, with no further cleaning. The passages weren't blocked but there was quite a lot of what I call shale (thin, flaky stone in British English)......bits of rust lightly attached to the metal, which is easy to displace with a scratcher. There was dirt too, and visually a lack of definition to the insides of the rotors. All this stuff would remain damp after wet weather, instead of the rotors quickly drying out, thus accelerating rusting. It didn't take long to do and I reckon it was time well spent. The rotors certainly look better on close inspection - like mechanical parts, and not pieces of junk . I did the video after the cleaning, so the owner could see what I was doing with her car. In the video, then, you only get the clean view. It was pretty grim looking earlier. Here's a pic of a cleaned-up front rotor. Both front rotors are still on the car because I don't have the big Torx tool to remove the bracket: In the next pic you can see all the "shale", with an orange appearance....also varying shades of brown: With brakes, I go all the way and don't watch the clock. If I see something I don't like, I deal with it. I reckon it saves money in the long run. The goal here is to get everything as clean as possible, so when it comes back after the winter it'll be a pleasant job to simply spruce stuff up a bit back to the state it's all in now. I wrote earlier somewhere that all four of these caliper assemblies looked tragic. Under all the crap and shale, they are surprisingly in excellent condition, and I have nothing further to do except for cleaning out the old slider grease and smearing new on. I'm doing this because I don't know what kind of grease is in there, so just playing safe with the correct type for the job.
  7. Thanks guys! I'll let you know how it goes, though it might be a few days yet. All the calipers are off now so I can clean up the rotors, especially the vented fronts. I did a video for the owner: [video=youtube;6jRG5eOOS0s]
  8. Thanks! That's what I wanted to read, not: "Those hose bolts? Never got one out in my life! Common issue with these calipers!"
  9. Well, I'm nearly there with the braking system on the 91 Regal. Today I managed to turn all four bleed valves on the calipers. The method was to hit each valve with some MIG weld, wait until completely cool, then get the grips on. Someone had been at them all at some point, all the hexagons were a bit chewed up. To render the braking system fully serviceable, I now need to check the bolts which fix the flexible brake hoses to the calipers. Do these usually turn without difficulty, or might they snap? Any advice most welcome on this, because if I manage to turn all four hose bolts.........then I'VE WON!!!!!!!!!! Cheers!
  10. Thanks, Schurkey! I spent some more time looking around, and it's hard to find two opinions which match on this . Perhaps it doesn't matter which pedal is pressed first to get the pads up to the rotor. I'll toss a coin and follow the result. If that doesn't do it, there's only one other option to choose from . We've been lucky with the brakes on this car. They looked atrocious, and the money would have been on everything being locked up. However, all the piston seals are good, there is no sign of fluid leakage anywhere, and the rear brakes are in perfect condition. The sliders have no corrosion at all and move freely with no play. Their boots are perfect too. I even got the parking brake equalizer/adjuster freed up and working properly.
  11. Thanks! I read somewhere that the parking brake pedal should regularly be pressed down and released several times when the foot is off the main brake pedal. Apparently, according to the article, the allows the pressing of the parking brake pedal to perform the correct adjustment. The point was made that most drivers apply the parking brake while the main brake pedal is pressed down, and that doing this doesn't allow the correct adjustment to take place. Is this correct? Edit: I just remembered......the article said that failure to do the "one foot off" procedure outlined above was the cause of most problems with this brake system, other than corrosion and neglect.
  12. I've been going through search for an hour, but didn't find what I was looking for. On a 91 Regal, I've had the rear calipers off to check them out. The handbrake lever on the right side was stiff and reluctant to return, and some bolts were very tight, but everything's fine now after much cleaning and grunting .. What I need to know is the order of what to do after getting the pistons screwed all the way down, pads put back in and the calipers remounted on the car. Do I firstly have to press the main brake pedal to move the pistons out so the pads touch the rotor, or should I operate the parking brake mechanism first to achieve this? Or do I ratchet the parking brake actuating levers by hand until the pads touch the rotors? I've seen some posts which mention having to use the parking brake regularly to maintain the correct adjustment of the pistons, so I suspect it should be parking brake first to set the pads up up against the rotors. I got the parking brake cables ready for the final adjustment after everything else has been done. Cheers!
  13. Thanks. I'm still hanging on before pulling the plenum to check out things further. Maybe something will come to mind that makes sense.........not too optimistic about that . There is absolutely no smell of petrol anywhere around the engine bay, and certainly not from under the plenum. Maybe I should cover the plenum for a while tomorrow morning and see if any smell builds up around that fuel pressure regulator you mentioned. I had an idea today - I stuck my hoovering attachment under the plenum. I have a short length of garden hose taped to the hoover pipe and I use this for getting into enclosed box sections to clean up after welding preparation. I emptied the hoover first and managed to get the pipe pretty much everywhere under the plenum.......all I got was a half teaspoonful of dust and sand. It seems that no component has exploded to bits, then. The engine fires up and runs fine, which is perhaps the most baffling thing considering how loud that bang was and the subsequent smoke.
  14. Worth saying: When you're being careful as you work, double check to make sure that you're really being totally careful.
  15. Here are my latest thoughts....... Mr Idiot Dickhead (that's me) had checked the air filter and is awaiting a new one. So he hadn't bothered to put the bolts back in, just left the cover loose on the top of the filter box. On a totally windless day, the car was started several times within the space of half an hour. He had fiddled with a temporary earth just to the rear of the driver-side headlamp, very close to the air filter box actually, after noticing that it was sparking. At the moment, this course of events would explain the bang and the lack of a smell from burned electronics. Not sure about the smoke, where it came from to get under the plenum, it's trajectory etc. It lingered a while in the unwindy conditions, and looked spookily pretty as it very slowly wisped away . The more I think about it, the more I feel sure that petrol vapor exploded. It was that kind of bang. I'll be checking further when I wake up in the morning, of course.