UA-65274002-1 Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Donations

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About kcac

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Milwaukee WI
  1. Thanks for the update and insight on vehicle values. Depending how the seats look under those seat covers, the Craigslist car looks like it is a good price now the electrical drain has been corrected and that warmer weather is ahead. I've attached the current version of the Craigslist ad you referenced so that someone stumbling across this thread long after the car has been sold will be able to place some context around this thread. You are correct, some marketing would probably help move the car, and for the guy currently listing it , moving it into a more relevant Craigslist category would help. A couple of weeks ago, I had passed along to my brother-in-law (after he decided not to pursue the car) a listing of 90's Cutlass convertibles for sale on Autotrader (see other attachment). Where there had been nothing for months, now there were several low mileage convertibles. It was surprising to see this number of low mileage cars. At one point, the search results had included a 40,000 mile 1995 Cutlass convertible with the not seen very often in these cars, 3.1L engine. So you are probably right, the book value is probably reflects an average of cars in varying condition, and does not take into account seasonal demand. It would be interesting to know if these cars sell ,and at what price. Looking at the Autotrader listings, I thought about how I appreciate a survivor vehicle as much as the next person, but owning a car such low mileage would deter me from enjoying it. I would go into preservationist mode and use the car as little as possible to keep it a low mileage car - and agonize every time I drove it, knowing I was adding more mileage. 20190508_1994 olds cutlass supreme convertible.pdf 20190508_90s_olds_cutlass supreme_convertibles_for_sale.pdf
  2. My brother-in-law said Edmunds values the car at $1640. He is abandoning the idea of purchasing the car in order to sell it at a profit. I thought the value of these cars was around $3500, but I have not looked in a couple of years. I just checked Edmunds - my 1995 convertible with 80,000 miles is $1,651 for private party, $2,615 dealer retail. I did not buy mine to make money. If I did, I would be crying right now. I paid $7000 for it in 2007. A search of Ebay for sold 1990 to 1995 Cutlass convertibles resulted in a single 1995 with 43000 miles. It sold for $4550 last month.
  3. I have the 3.4 dohc in my convertible. It's no performance machine, but it moves OK. I wonder if the performance is noticeably different between a convertible with the 3.1 engine vs the 3.4 dohc.
  4. My brother-in-law asked me about a 1994 Cutlass Supreme convertible with 87,000 miles and an asking price of $1900. Since I have a 1995 Cutlass convertible, he asked me for my opinion about the price. What do you guys think? See the attachment. I told him about the potential issues: distributor plug oil leak, timing belt maintenance, under engine mounted alternator, melted dome light switches issues, dead rear window motors. He is considering the car because of its low asking price, and asked me about the potential of being able to use it then sell it for a profit. I don't know if there would be much money to be made from this car, even if he got it for $1500. What do you think? This is not a "must have" for him. It caught his eye because he knows I have one of these cars. Also, did two-tone seats come from the factory? I have never seen that style seat before on these cars. 1994 olds cutlass supreme convertible.pdf
  5. Thanks for the offer. I will try finding one at a yard here. Besides pulling one from a 1995 Cutlass or a Regal, a '95 Grand Prix would work, too, correct?
  6. Correct. I see the opening for a button, but do not have the button itself, and never did since I owned the car. It is not my daily driver. It is a convertible like yours, that I only drive in the summer. Since I never had a hazard button and therefore have no point of reference, I want to figure out if I need a replacement button or a new hazard switch assembly.
  7. My '95 Cutlass Supreme has never had the hazard flashers button since I bought the car used over 10 years ago. From the owner's manual and looking at the steering column, it looks like the button should be at the top of the steering column. Has anyone replaced just the button and not the entire switch? If so, what is the replacement procedure? Thanks for any ideas on this.
  8. One year I skipped the rodent defense during winter storage. Mice build a nest in the heating and air conditioning fan, and used the heat and AC ducts for passageways. That was over 5 years ago, and even after cleaning and disinfecting, there is still the faint scent of mouse urine when the heat/AC fan runs.
  9. I took the car out of storage 10 days ago. The car seems to have picked up where it left off when it was put into storage. I do not notice any difference in how it runs now from when it was last operated. Because of time constraints, I installed the battery, checked the fluid levels, and started it. It stumbled for the first minute then smoothed out and has run fine. Right after I got it out of storage, I drove it a bit to burn off fuel and then added a couple of gallons of fresh gas. Last night, it was down to 1/4 of a tank, so l filled the tank and also added 17 ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment to the tank as well (a little over 1 ounce per gallon of gas for the 16.5 gallon tank capacity). Among Sea Foam Motor Treatment's many claims, these are the ones why I added it: Clean Injectors, Clean Deposits, Liquefy Gum and Varnish. A lot of people swear by it, so i thought I would give it a try, even though the car has been running fine. Anyway, so far, so good.
  10. Thanks for all the responses and advice. In general, it sounds like the gas isn't going to be the big issue I thought it would be. I hate to have let the car sit for that long, because I've read that a vehicle needs to be driven regularly to maintain proper lubrication and general good drive-ability. It was running pretty well when I stored it. It will be interesting to see if it picks up where it left off. Thanks again everyone.
  11. I parked a 1995 Cutlass with the 3.4 dohc in November 2012 with a full tank of gas, and also added Stabil to the tank. It's a convertible that I park (unheated garage) to keep out of the winter salt. It ended up sitting longer than I had planned. In a couple of months it's going to come out of storage. I'm hoping the Stablil bought me some time as far as the gas going stale, and that I can just start driving the car, burn down some of the old gas in the tank, and dilute the remaining old gas with fresh gas. Does anyone have any experience they can share about putting a vehicle that has not been driven for a couple of years back in service?
  12. Got some time to take another look at this problem. It seems the driver's side lock switch is sticking, which then affects any action with the electric locks. I'm going to spray it with contact cleaner and see if that solved the problem for good.
  13. The car is a 1995 Cutlass Supreme. the battery is fully charged. Yesterday the keyless remotes worked fine to lock and unlock the doors. Today when I push the lock or unlock button on the remote, I hear a faint sound like a solenoid is engaging, but the doors never unlock or lock. The trunk opens fine via the remotes. I have no idea what could have changed overnight. All the other electrical components seem to be fine. Has anyone run into this before, or have any ideas on how to troubleshoot this problem?
  14. kcac

    Heater Door Stuck?

    Following up on last year's thread. 95 vert was right. My heater problems were due to mice. I pulled the heater blower and found a mouse nest in the fan cage and the area above the cage. We really didn't use the car much at all last year (cool summer in Milwaukee), and I just got it out of the garage for this summer. I've heard mice can really wreak havoc by chewing up wiring, but so far no problems. And it wasn't to bad to pull except for the one screw adjacent to the floorboard. All the others took a 7mm socket and came right out. The one next to the floorboard had a phillips head, and the driver kept slipping out of the screw head. That one took a lot of time to remove.
  15. RE: the "lost" Scenicruiser bus site, it may have been archived and exist on the internet archives at Check it out, you may be able to recover the photos through the archive.
  • Create New...