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Twinpilot001

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About Twinpilot001

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 04/27/1948

Converted

  • Biography
    retired mechanic-autos & marine-also commercial pilot.
  • Location
    spokane wa.
  • Interests
    anything with an engine
  • Occupation
    Take this job & shoveit!!
  1. COLDStarting!! all spark, fuel pressures & pump /fuel have been checked-long crank times when cold -50-60F!
  2. 1988 cutlass2.8 FWD! long cranking before starting? runs ok after start -when I can get it started!!Spark & fuel all good & comp. too. Whats up with this thing?? seems i have read long ago about a temp sender causing this???? if so?? where is that located? Thanx
  3. OK ill venture a guess!! Try putting a vacumn hand held pump on the MAP sensor-where engine vacumn attaches =to test & see if that map sensor holds vacumn?? I have a code readedfor obd1 cars .they are available on u r local craigs list-just advertize for one!! Cheapo! Now - if vacumn wont hold steady? replace the map sensor!! Id also test - when idleing for any vacumn leaks by spraying brake clean or carb clean around the intake , areas & see if idle characteristics change?? if so locate the leak 's?? & fix! be sure to check all vacumn lines as they willget old & some will leak (carb spray!!) when running.
  4. Need the part # for the rubber vacumn connector=(4 preferably or 3 lines 1989 & up?-) that sits on top of the intake plenum near the maf sensor. this is for a 1988 olds cutlass with 2.8 engine. FWD model. This rubber part has 3 plastic vacumn lines coming from it. Thanx
  5. in the pix u sent= where u r thumb is ? where does that line go to??also=where does the line coming off the "T" go to ( one to right of thumb)? If i am understanding you correctly????? The line that is straight / from thumb area- just past the ?? one way check valve? -- going under the blue electrical connector?? = is the one going up to the main line to the intake connector / for HVAC? its also the largest diameter line (like 1/4 '?)
  6. I have no idea on this teck 1=??yet try google?? also -i bought an early obd1 tester from an retiredmechanic . was inexpensive & u might try craigslist -where i found mine.
  7. I had a 86 chev= with 2.8 - had to have 2 injectors replaced. Years later i scrapped the car -yet removedall injectors & fuel rail. saved & recently tested all injectors - all same spec ! i was surprised! yet my idea is get over to aparts wrecker -u=pull? & remove a few complete sets! Test & use as ness.
  8. Thanx to all - car still not good- I cant seem to get it to start when cold- cranks long time =tries to start--yet i floor the accl-pedal still no start - seems to want to backfire- not badly once / twice- yet have checked fuel pressure -good 40+ psi, spark excellent too-compression great! When i (while running -before) induced carb cleaner spray - finding only 1 area under intale plenum=that engine will smoothe & run better. yet i know the intake gasket is new & good.Maybe a cracked line that goes fron top intake rubber feed to fuel rail vacumn & then "T's" to map sensor is bad or leaking?? Just cant seem to figure why engine before ran @ idle for over (3 times) 1+ hour each. now wont run? I still have not tried to test drive the car. long ago- when i did drive it -would die -then non run - towed back to house(close by) i believed that was due to TPS being bad!! replaced that & adjusted values. I did have the crank sensor replaced when all the non-start & dieing on road 1st became a problem.It was bad. Car ran very good after that except @ 65 mph - it was like someone turned the key off- let up on accl- ran good again. Thats when i discovered the TPS was bad & replaced. I havent been able to get this car driveable again!! it has no cam sensor is obd 1 - & is 88 olds cutlass= fwd-2.8 engine-- multi port fi. I did have a map that leaked vac & replaced that. Cleaned idle air sol too. only code todate i can usually get is code 34 map low. Im bald & still pulling my hair!!
  9. Heres another problem i seem to keep having =MAP =low code given. I hav ereplaced the map sensor 2 times now=back to back!! I keep getting a map low code & then engine runs badly -yet doesnt quit! Manuals tell me that means there is a "High"Vacumn. Yet what the heck here? vacumn is not adjustable. Why /what would cause a map low?? Thanx. Again car is a 1988 olds cutlass FWD 2.8 engine.
  10. UPDATE!! Today got the car running - have all vacumn lines hooked up =EXCEPT!! 1 heres my deliema!!- the line from the intake (rubber 4 hole vacumn thingy) - diagram says HVAC/ Cruise- for the life of me & my small Hands wife!! & flasklights / mirrors ect.= we cannot locate where this line from the intake hooks to?? Diagrams show it like going into firewall?? yet i find the cruise vacumn actuator on drivers side fender area is hooked up & lines all going into the car in electrical bundle feed thru area! This line has to have some external line that it goes to ?? HELP!! remember -i have a olds cutlass FWD 1988 2.8 model. 88 & 89 seemingly are the same-except ! 89 has a 3 port rubber vacumn/ throttle =intake lines on it !same diagram mostly =-i just cant locate any line anywhere that SHOULD hook to the intake line.!
  11. Yes =sxactly & ebay has them used too.
  12. My earlier year cutlass has it higher up afixed to the firewall can even zip tie it up! Caution=if that plastic is melted or bad?? replace it !! it will effect computer!!
  13. Personally= ?? can run it yet??= likely needs valve seals & i would consider a valve job -if?? it were mine. Then i could inspect pistons, cyl. bore condition, ect.!!
  14. didnt know what year car u have ?? yet look here @ rock auto parts= i crossed the gasket # u have -this came up= http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1364206,parttype,5424
  15. From my personal experience- i use an "Permatex-Aviation sealer" on my intake gaskets-that stuff is nasty -yet it seals when no other will seal or last a long time . once done I never have any leak again!! U can even use it on carb gaskets -fuel wont take it off!! Stays pliable too. Carb / brake cleaner will remove it!!
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