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95LQ1VERT

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Everything posted by 95LQ1VERT

  1. I've been having a problem recently with my courtesy lights staying on after the passenger door is opened. The lights will only go out it the door is pretty much slammed shut. I've tested the continuity of the door jamb switch and it seems to be fine. My question I guess is, what else would cause the interior lights to stay on if the switch is good? P.S. The dimmer switch is turned down low. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  2. 95LQ1VERT

    1994 Cutlass convertible Courtesy lights wont shut off

    I will leave it unplugged if there is no ill effects. On a plus side, I took apart the convertible top switch last night and cleaned the contacts and put it back together. It works now! Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  3. 95LQ1VERT

    1994 Cutlass convertible Courtesy lights wont shut off

    I pulled the carpet back on the passenger floor and found the harness for the door. I unplugged it and shut the door normally and the dome lights went out. So I took the door panel off and followed the wires all the way to the Lock Mechanism. I unplugged the last connector and shut it and the courtesy lights shut off with each soft close. Is there a "Door ajar" switch built into the lock mechanism on these cars? And will it hurt if I leave that connection unplugged? Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  4. Let me start of saying this is my second CSC. The first one was a 1995 LQ1 and my current one is a 1994 LQ1. Purchased the '94 back in November 2017, and been slowly working on bringing it back to a healthy life. A few stats about it the car: - 1994 (build date is march of 1994) - LQ1 3.4L DOHC v6, 4 speed - Red body, Black interior, White top - 93,xxx miles - VIN 1G3WT35XORD377734 I trailered it from Nebraska to Kentucky in December while my plant was closed for holiday shutdown. Couldn't drive it as it was a garage queen and knew it need some work. Current progress on the car has been a total top end reseal on all gaskets including the dreaded oil pump drive seal. The Head gasket wasn't leaking but the fire ring on cylinder 4 was starting to bulge into the cylinder. So I went ahead and took the heads off and sent them to a machinist and had them check the heads, put new valve stem seals on, and resurface the gasket mating surface. Other things I've done was chased a fluctuating idle which ended up being a chewed up fuel pressure regulator vac line. Fixed other harness wires from mice damage, including cyl. 3 & 5 injector wires, and oxygen sensor wires, it wasn't bad damage just annoying. I've also replaced the original red and black plug wires, coils, ICM, water pump that had shaft play and noisy bearing, oil pump drive shaft, oil pressure sensor. I've also pulled all lifters out making sure I marked their loaction and let them soak for a week in Berrymans B12 chemtool, and then let 1 week in marvel mystery oil in hopes they would be "refreshed". I'm currently in process of putting it all back together. So far I've got both cylinder heads on and torqued down. Exhaust manifolds put on, rear head cam carrier on and torqued down. New timing belt idlers on, new plug wires routed to factory look. I also ported and polished the lower intake manifold, but it's too time consuming for too little gain so that's all I did with that. I'm waiting on a new timing belt actuator from group1autopart.com to finish up the engine. I've got a list of things needed to be done and a couple boxes full of parts to put on so it'll be road worthy but I will update as I finish things. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  5. I put new mufflers and tips on recently. Mufflers are Total Flow 33225 from Amazon, pretty much Magnaflow knock offs. And the tips are 2.25" single inlet to dual 3" outlet. Sounds good, drones a bit at cruising speeds though. Link to my YouTube video below. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  6. Where are you located? How is the weather stripping on the top, and the rear qtr window sweeps? Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  7. I did mean 6,000 lol. I was just making up for the year of working on it and not being able to drive it. I plan on keeping the mileage to 5000 a year, especially if I register as a classic in 2019. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  8. Posting a little update. I've had the car driving since August roughly. So far I've put 6k miles on it since I completed my overhaul. The only thing that went wrong was the new radiator cap I purchased from rockauto. The seal was bad and would leak from it, however that has since been fixed. The car will be hitting its 100k milestone today!! Excited to see it! My plans for 2019 include the following. 1.) Get the mufflers and tips replaced. 2.) Address the fading trim around the convertible top, and the lip spoiler. 3.) Find a nice set of Bonneville GXP wheels for the ole girl. 4.) Clean up the underside of the car and rust proof with light suspension restoration. 5.) Replace the bad interior trim pieces. 6.) Overhaul the sound system. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  9. Did my transmission filter/fluid change last night. I was honestly surprised to see how clean the pan was. The fluid was still red, but had a darker color to it, and I wasn't sure if it had ever been changed in the last 10 years so I went ahead and changed it for preventative maintenance. There was shavings on the magnet, but not much sediment in the pan which I figured was good as I didn't have any issues with shifting or TCC lock. I also went ahead and put Valvoline Maxlife synthetic ATF in since it was a $4 difference. It took a little over 6 quarts of ATF for the pan drop and filter change. After it was done I immediately could tell the difference in shift quality on the first drive. Easy job, a little messy, but worth the time. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  10. As requested, first picture of my index finger pointing to the track is where the window/guide came out. Second is the moulding I replaced. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  11. Lol! I can, I still have the door panel off, but I'm getting ready for work now Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  12. You were correct, lowered the window enough to put the front guide in, then rolled it back up and popped the rear guide in. Works great now! Also go my new window guide weather seal put in. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  13. My window doesn't come out of the tracks when rolling down or up, it gets about 5" from going down in the door and just binds up. It tilts forward towards the front fender some when its rolled down. I'll just have to take the panel off and look Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  14. Awesome thank you. I have never taken a door panel off this car but I imagine it's not too terrible, but is in neccessary to get to the guide clip? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  15. My current project with the Cutlass is trying to get the passengers door window to work correctly, I know for sure the rubber window/mirror seal is bad and is causing the window to bind up not roll up all the way. However I can't get the window to roll down all the way either, it seems as if a window clip is bad and making the window tilt forward. Does the convertible utilize clips to retain the window in its track? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  16. Update time! I managed to get the outer tie rods, and lower ball joints replaced over the course of a month with a vacation in between it all. This past Friday I got it licensed, and Saturday I had some new shoes put on and got an alignment done. Really got to enjoy it this weekend, with 600+ miles drove! Now it's on to the small stuff, like interior odds and ends, and complete vehicle detail. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  17. Ahhhhhh... the quality of Chinese tools. Didn't even get the second rivet head ground off before the angle grinder shit its pants. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  18. I picked one up today, hopefully it'll go smooth from here lol Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  19. Started on the ball joints today. Didn't get very far though since I'm going in to work tonight. I figured my dremel with the grinding stones would be adequate to get the rivet heads off, but that takes way too long and chews the bits up too fast... So I have to get an angle grinder now. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  20. I got the tie rods done, the jam nuts were a pain in the ass. But I got them unscrewed and clean the thread up, and put it all back together. I called Firestone since I used to work there and seen how much front lower ball joints replacement would be... I'll take y'alls advice and do em myself. [emoji849] Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  21. Been slowly trying to do the tie rod ends on the car. Passenger side is almost done. Have to cut the castle but off since it decided to get stuck on and wont unthread, but once that's off itll be quick to swap over. Drivers side jam nut is being a bear, so hopefully some penetrating oil and heat will work... as far as the ball joints go, I may just pay a shop to do it so I don't have to worry about trying to get those rivets drilled out myself. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  22. Thank you, I used Gütermann M782 extra strong polyester upholstery thread. I picked it up at JoAnn fabrics for about $4 a roll. I bought 2 rolls, but 1 is more than enough. I hand stitched a backstitch, very time consuming but should hold up for a while. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  23. Got one side of the top sewn back together to the best of my ability. Still have to do the other side. It's a good band aid fix until I decide to replace the top. There is however a 6" section on the front side of the top, that the frame was in the way so I couldn't get it sewn all the way to the end. Looks better than it did. (Drivers side is the fixed side, passenger is for comparison) Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  24. I put KYB excel-G struts on and they're already elongated on the bottom mounting bolt. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  25. I read that you're supposed to file out the bottom bolt on the spindle? Is that what you mean by slop? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
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