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rawdeal91vert

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About rawdeal91vert

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 05/29/1965

Converted

  • Location
    Atlanta. Ga
  • Occupation
    Regional Manager
  1. Motor installed. All is golden and its convertible weather here in Atlanta!
  2. I had a similar problem with my 91' 3.1. OBD1. It would shutter and cut out at 35-45 mph. I had to replace all the injectors. Problem solved. It was exspensive. Fortunately, I bought the car right.
  3. GnatGoSplatt. What type of screws did you use? A self tapping sheet metal screw?
  4. Does anyone have a good solution to fix a separated dash from a 91'? This is the ONLY flaw in the interior of my car. Everything else is 95%. Any ideas? I have been told this is unversally common amoung GM cars of this period.
  5. I had my dash out replacing speakers and I thought posting some photos might be helpful to someone: The hardest part was getting the 2 screws out that are inside the defroster vent up against the windshield. I used a 18" flexible extension on a small cordless screw driver. It was not brain surgery but it was tedious. The new Boston Aucoustics sound great up front! The hard part was guessing the polarity of the original speaker wires. The wires in the dash are not black and red. I think I guessed right because they sound good. Hope this helps somebody.
  6. Motor is a goner. Ordered new one from Hydro-E-Lectric. $229 free shipping. Will install Friday.
  7. 56 degrees this morning. High of 82 today. 3rd day of fall. A little nip in the air. Windbreaker just enough. The top hasn't been up since Saturday morning. This time of year in Atlanta is about perfect for a convertible!
  8. Wow, I bought mine on July 9th and have put over 2000 miles on so far. It my daily driver. Now if I could just get the top working consistantly I'd be golden!
  9. No. It is definately a loose wire at the motor. There is no fill line or window on a 91' pump motor to see fluid level. There are 2 screws on the top or silver part of the motor housing. To get to motor looks like you have to remove the hydralic lines from both sides. That looks like a real pain.
  10. Yes that is clean as it gets.
  11. Do you just have to pull the motor out of the mounting bracket turn it up on its side and unscrew the silver cap to check the fluid? Please pardon my ignorance.. To remove the motor should I just pull it out of the gromets or is there a bracket that I am not seeing? Today I had manually pull the top up by hand and latch down completely with the help of a friend. It was diffucult to do and fairly slow going. The switch does not engage the motor at all. I found the relay and removed it and reseated it. Nothing. Seems like the motor would at least try to engage as it has in the past.
  12. Well it happened again and the I had to lift the top by hand. Got it about 1/3 the way up slowly and then the motor started working when the switch is engaged. Any guesses out. I still need to check fluid level.
  13. UPDATE the PAC-RC unit is installed and working. It was no small feat. The tech that installed had to call an engineer he knew at PAC to get the remote to take the programing. It is installed and working. Now has anyone ever removed the sterring wheel buttons and cleaned the contacts underneath? The volume is a tad sticky all the others work perfect.
  14. I had to replace all the injectors in my 91' 3.1 convertible. Sounds like a similar problem that I had. It would stall under harder acceleration. The car got progressively worse over a couple of weeks util it would not stay running. The injectors should have nominal impedance of 13 OHMs. Mine were at 2, 4 or 10 Ohms. The car had 73,000 mile on it but sat up for 2 years and was driven very little.
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