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l2bengtrek

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About l2bengtrek

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  • Birthday 04/30/1970
  1. I just need the mount panel. The hood took most of the damage...the bumper cover is good. I'm in Cincinnati, Ohio Although, a good passenger side bezel would be good...mine got nipped on the inside corner a little.. let me know! Either here, or PM. Thanks!
  2. Thanks everybody for the responses! I will look into www.pullapart.com. Also...94 Olds Vert. I will PM you about your possible one.
  3. Hello All! It's been a while. I own a 94 Cutlass Supreme convertible that had a fender bender. I'm in big need of a headlamp mounting panel for it and I'm having a REAL hard time finding a replacement. It seems that nowadays, not only are the convertible parts hard to find..the 2-door models are too! (At least here in the Cincinnati, Ohio area) Does ANYONE have any suggestions on where to find one or does anyone here have one to sell? Again, its the 2-door variation with the quad headlights. pretty sure '93,'94,'95 are all the same. THANKS for any help with this matter! Scott
  4. True...I just got done e-mailing the fella I dealt with at PAC, we'll see what he says. Thanks!! I am thinking...maybe it needs to be reset back to factory default to start fresh? Maybe the current programing is looking for audio control signals and since the audio wire is disconnected, it disables it? YEAH! THAT'S IT!! LOL
  5. Thanks for the info! Think I'm going to give my "buddy" at PAC a call to see if these things can just be programmed for the CC functions. That would be my "less of a headache"..
  6. Oh, I did want to mention....The PAC was already programmed and had been functioning for the past year...and then I added the METRA. Are you suggesting RE-PROGRAMMING both interfaces after connecting them?
  7. I was thinking that way too. I thought use the PAC for the climate controls, use the METRA for the audio controls. Simple right? Here's what happens...when I disconnected the AUDIO wire from the PAC to connect it to the METRA...the climate controls stopped working. So evidently the PAC needs BOTH of the wires to be connected. I confirmed that. When I connected the audio wire BACK to the PAC, the climate controls came right back. I then tried temporarily twisting the audio control wire to both interface wires and I guess they interfere with each other because I couldn't get a response from the METRA. When I disconnect the PAC from this mix, the Metra starts working again. If theres a way to have the PAC control the CC's and the METRA control the audio, I'm fine with that....But any suggestions on what I can do to isolate the two interfaces if they have to share the audio wire? Thanks for the feedback!
  8. Thanks Jesse. I'm confused though because there are TWO wires coming out of the 7 pin connector in the radio compartment. One is for the audio signals, the other for the CC signals. The PAC interface had wires in it's harness to connect BOTH wires to. Now the Metra interface, according to their tech support, doesn't have a wire designated to connect to the now open CC wire. Does that make sense? I'm looking to connect this wire back to something to enable the climate controls again. I'm asking if there's something in the dash harness I can jump this wire to now...ore anything I can do. Thanks!
  9. Hello all! I've been searching for a while and can't seem to find what I'm looking for. Hoping somebody has some wiring diagrams. I have a 94 Cutlass convertible that I did a stereo upgrade to last summer. Kenwood head unit, speakers, under-seat sub and a SWC interface. After failure to get a PAC interface to program, I found that as far as PAC goes, I had THE ONE OF TWO Kenwood model Head units that PAC is having problems making a compatible interface for. After EXTENSIVE research and emails with PAC's tech support, I could only get their CP5 interface to program the climate controls. I originally tried their SWI-RC, which had the same result. They were confident that the CP5 would program to the radio, but it did not. As far as the audio controls went, both parties were up in arms over it and I gave up and settled for just having use of the climate controls. Fast forward to this week, when I decided to take a chance on a Metra Access ASWC-1 to see if it would work. It programmed to the Kenwood in minutes! YAY! Here's the problem, it has no provision for the climate controls! Their tech support confirmed it. So here's my question: Is it possible to somehow by-pass needing an aftermarket interface for the climate controls? I tried using the PAC for the climate controls and the Metra for the audio. It would not work because evidently the audio AND climate control wires need to be hooked up to the PAC to work. I still have the OE 7 pin harness connector intact with the dash harness, I just snipped the audio and CC control wires off. Can I somehow splice the CC control wire back to something in the dash harness to regain the climate controls? Both audio and climate control wires ran into the 7 pin connector plugging into the OE radio. Sorry for the lengthy post..just wanted to give the background of my problem. Thanks!
  10. PAC finally responded to my e-mail. They said the SWI-RC should be fine. Ordered one today. Thanks!
  11. Hello all, I have searched for a while through the different SWC threads and I would like to know something a little more specific. I'm finally upgrading my factory stereo in my '94 CS convertible and bought a Kenwood Excelon KDC-X798 for the head unit. Does anyone else happen to have this unit or know that the PAC SWI-RC controller will work with this? Crutchfield said it will, another stereo installation shop said it will, but the PAC website has it as NON compatible with the KDC-X798 in its footnotes on the product page. I've tried e-mailing PAC, but I'm on day 4 with no response. Has anyone had experience with this Kenwood model and know for sure which way to go? I know it says it will work with Kenwoods with a wired input, but then I ran across the footnote. I don't wanna waste time ordering one and find out in the middle of the install it doesn't work. Thanks!
  12. I have been lucky enough to where i have never even had to stick my head back there to look at the pump or the struts (knocking on wood!) I'd say the first thing you should do is be back there in the trunk while a friend hits the switch so you can see firsthand WHERE the fluid comes out. That will determine your next course of action.
  13. Since it's been so long...you've probably got your top fixed by now, but I had to do this years ago and just matched up new ones with one of the originals and used a regular electric staple gun that you can get at Home Depot, etc...worked nicely and has been fine ever since.
  14. That would make sense. I had my top replaced in 2000 and when I got it back I thought it looked a little big, but I'm glad it was because it's 12 years later and its still got a little room to shrink. Bindings will wear out before the top shrinks to pop the rear window...
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