UA-65274002-1 Jump to content

DesertEagle50

Members
  • Content Count

    21
  • Donations

    $0.00 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About DesertEagle50

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 08/09/1979
  1. Hi, I have a rear end clunk on a 1998 Buick Century. I figured in it was the rear strut mounts, but the clunk remains after installing rear quick struts. I believe the clunk is originating from the point where the rear support/cross-member/ sub-frame is bolted to the unibody. There is (or should be) rubber between the bolt and the sub-frame. Does anyone have an idea about how to acquire these bushings? Are they part of the bolt or the sub-frame? I can't find them anywhere. The only sub-frame bushings I can find are manufactured by Dorman, but the "rear" bushings seem to refer to the rear mounts of the front sub-frame--not the rear sub-frame. The part number for the rear support/cross-member/sub-frame itself is 10419306 (see https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-suspension-cross-member-10419306). I find it hard to believe that I am the only one who has ever needed to replace this rubber, but I cannot yield a fruitful search from Google. Many thanks!
  2. I am attempting to replace a parking brake cable on a 1998 Buick Century. Is it necessary to remove the drum brakes hardware/shoes in order to replace the parking brake cable. Does anyone have tips on removing the cable where the one-way prong connectors are? There is a special tool J-37043 available. Thanks!
  3. I have a 1998 Buick Century Custom with a power mirror switch that works but not every time. I hooked 12V up to the harness connector and verified that the mirrors work fine. I bought two bad switches off of ebay. Both of the switches had green corrosion on the circuit boards and button contacts, and I can only assume that they were rained on and some point. I received a refund from the seller who swears he tested the switches before mailing them. I was unable to find an aftermarket replacement for my exact year/make/model. There are new power mirror switches available for Buick Century 1999-2005. http://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/power-mirror-switch/duralast-power-mirror-switch/buick/century/1999/6-cylinders-m-3-1l-sfi-ohv/860993_0_0/?checkfit=true. I am wondering if there was a change to the switch wiring after 1998, which could explain why there is a different part number and why the replacement switches didn't work. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for Buick Century 1999-2005? Also, a printed circuit board is green with black traces. If the board develops dark green patches between black traces does that indicate a short? Thanks!
  4. It should work. http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/products/Chevrolet/Impala-o/COVER-Shock-AbsorberStrut/2859562/17996018.html Let me know what you want to ship it to 18901. Thanks for getting your part number.
  5. I need part 17996018. It is the right front strut cover plate on a 1995 chevy lumina. The part number is stamped into it if you open up the hood.
  6. I have a couple of issues with the 1995 Lumina LS front suspension. There is a even-parts clunk and squeak noise coming from the right front during braking. The timing of the noise is very specific and reproducible. The noise only occurs after braking has halted the car's momentum when the front suspension unloads and returns the weight of the vehicle towards the rear. I recently replaced the ball joint at that location. An alignment was done and the only correction needed was to adjust the toe to within spec. At the time I discovered the bad ball joint, I also removed the three nuts holding the strut to the tower to remove the cover plate and take a peak inside but I didn't notice anything obvious. The vehicle was not on completely level ground at the time, but nothing was disturbed except what I mentioned. The nuts were reinstalled to spec with a torque wrench. Also the front of the Lumina sags, and the wheels are recessed a bit up into the wheel wells. I always assumed the front coil springs needed replacment, but when I searched this forum, I did not find any discussion of front coil springs being replaced to correct sag. This make me think the problem is not common and unlikely to be responsible for the sag. The struts are not quiet when going over speed bumps (I hear a "shhhhh" noise on the incline and decline), but they seem to work fine. The clunking needs to be fixed. The sagging is something I planned to address when I had another reason to work on the struts. I am a little frustrated, because I had planned to replace the gas tank filler neck (pin hole in vent tube) and all the lateral rods since Firestone requested I replace one of them before adjusting toe. Given the age of the vehicle, my maintenance strategy has been to upgrade something every 3 or 4 months as long as no unexpected repairs arose. I could really use some help diagnosing the front suspension and prioritizing maintenance. My only experience working on struts is removing one of the rears from the Lumina to treat some rust in the wheel well. Thanks for your help.
  7. Hello, I have a creaking noise coming from the passenger side front suspension. The noise appeared about three days ago. The noise is only heard when making a sharp right turn at a low speed, at the moment when the weight of the car shifts from the passenger side to the driver side. There are no handling or driveability issues. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
  8. I was tracking down the source of a leaky trunk in my 1995 Chevy Lumina. When I pulled back part of the trunk liner, I noticed some rust streaks around the strut tower. I started pushing with my fingers inside the rear wheel well, and I felt the crunch of rust. I will post the pics from my phone, and I need to know how bad it is. Thanks. Passenger Side: https://40.media.tumblr.com/789958ca2f7e2008af4a738bff57788c/tumblr_ngjk5fgOnM1tk3scso1_1280.jpg Driver Side: https://40.media.tumblr.com/0a907fb6c6b8711b664b8537caf8728d/tumblr_ngjk5fgOnM1tk3scso2_1280.jpg
  9. Engine Diagonal Brace: one of the two metal bars that are attached to the strut tower with one longer bolt (actually just outside it) and to the front of the engine compartment with two smaller bolts. These are the braces that must be removed to access the coolant overflow tank on one side and the washer fluid reservoir and battery on the other side. So I guess I removed and reinstalled the engine diagonal brace one two many times because one of the smaller bolts on the front of the engine compartment just keeps spinning and never gets snug. The threads on the bolt are fine, but most of the threads in the hole came out with the bolt. The damaged threads are M9x1.25. So what to do? (1)I have a tap and die set, but I've never done this sort of work before. Will I get good threads if I jump up to the next largest size (M10x1.25)? (2)Can I use a helicoil? I am hesitant because the bolt only threads through metal that is about 3/8" thick, but the bolt is at least an inch long. I thought helicoils need to bottom out in the hole. Thanks for any help.
  10. Hi, Can a GM from 1995 to 1998 be powered with a jump starter attached in place of the battery? If so, does anyone know a model name or certain specs to look for to jump start a 3.1 with a completely dead battery? I have a jump starter that I believed is good. A DMM reads 13+ volts between the clamps. However, I hooked it up to a 1995 Lumina and a 1998 Buick Century (also with the GM 3.1) in place of the battery and the cabin dome light wouldn't even come on. Is there something with the ECU/PCM that requires a battery to be installed? From doing a parasitic drain test, I know that when the Lumina is hooked up to a battery it will draw .01 to .1 amps for a few seconds, then .25 amps for a few seconds, then .001 amps thereafter. I didn't know if the ECU was performing a test of the battery at this time. I don't want to mistakenly throw out a good jump starter but it appears to have a very limited capacity. Thanks, Dave
  11. One of the regular contributors to this forum (I believe it was Shurkey) instructed the OP to another thread to pop the nuts/terminals out of the molded rubber when cleaning the battery cable connections. I would like to encourage everyone to please follow through on this advice, as it solved the problem described below. In case you don't care to read that far, I have a few questions that I need answered before I can renew my confidence in the 95 Lumina. Questions: ------------ (1) While charging the battery (installed in the vehicle) with a 1 amp charger, I noticed the reading lights and dome lamp were so much brighter and white instead of yellow. I checked the voltage at the battery terminals and it was 12.7 volts. Is this a cause for concern, as perhaps an indication of an excess draw on the battery? (2) Since I have owned this car, the headlights, tail lights, instrument cluster, dome lights , and reading lights have pulsed at a rate of about once or twice per second. The alternator tested good at Autozone and Advance Auto Parts a while back and replacing the battery did not help. Again, is this a cause for concern? (3) After solving (at least so far) the below problem, I did some testing on the alternator. The alternator spins freely, but the it sounds like the shaft is spinning on pebbles rather than bearings. Results: ---------- -Idle < 1000 RPM, no accessories: battery terminal voltage = 13.95 to 14.05 volts -Idle < 1000 RPM with doors closed, AC on with blower on max and both radiator fans spinning, Hi beams on, wipers on max, rear defroster on, and the radio blaring: 12.4 volts dropping by .01 volts every couple seconds. (4) Thanks in advance for any help! The Problem: ---------------- Over the course of a week, I noticed that the Lumina was no longer idling silky smooth, and I could feel the engine shutter and buck a bit when stopped at redlights. I also noticed that the car did not start up in the morning with the same determination it has done since I replaced the starter 6 months ago. So one morning, I drive the car a mile each way without issue to get breakfast. But when I attempt to start the car six hours later, the only response I get from the Lumina is the instrument cluster flashing in time with the deadening TAP-TAP-TAP-TAP-TAP of the starter pinion engaging but not moving the flywheel. All the accessories work, and the DMM says I have 12.6 volts on 2 year old Advance Auto Parts Gold Battery. Well, the starter has had a loose "S" terminal since I installed it, which has always bothered me, so I exchange it for a new one. I turn the key and TAP-TAP-TAP-TAP-TAP. I check the battery voltage again, and it's down to 11.4 volts. Now I start talking to the Lumina, "You want a piece of me? You wanna go right now, mother #%&*($^ ," as I remove the leads to the ignition module for testing (and partially out of spite). So, I check for and find battery voltage at the "B" terminal. I hook up a jump starter and check the voltage at the "S" terminal with the key in start, and it's all over the place. Once the battery is charged, I remove the Passkey relay from behind the glove compartment and probe the positive wires: 8.5 to 9 volts for each. I have the battery checked, and it is very strong. I return to the Lumina, clean up all the contacts on the battery cables (BUT DO NOT POP OUT THE TERMINAL NUTS), reinstall the battery, and BOOM we have ignition. Well since I put the front of the car up to install the starter, I grease the ball joints and tie rods and change the oil. I secure the battery, reinstall the twenty or so things one needs to remove to access the battery, lower the car, and go for a test drive, only instead I hear TAP-TAP-TAP-TAP-TAP. Battery voltage at the terminals: 10.5 volts. I am not in a very good place at this particular moment, and I over hear the jackass across the street chuckle and say to his wife, "Maybe I should go over there and show him how to install a battery." I'm thinking to myself, as I'm slouched into the engine bay, head bowed, "This ignorant douche bag doesn't even change his own wiper blades, or light bulbs, or even bother to lift the hood of his Chevy Malibu ever. Wait, Chevy Malibu?" So as a grin forms on my face, I rise up out of the engine bay, turn to him and yell, "That would be great. And then maybe I could show you how to remove everything from your key ring but your ignition key and drop your car off at the dealer for a recall." I also wanted to flash the West Side/West Coast "W" gang symbol for the W-Body, but the gesture would have been lost on him, I could tell from the look on his face that I had already caught him off-guard with a vicious right hook. Anyway, I returned to the forums, read the post about popping out the battery terminals/nuts for cleaning, did so, recharged the battery and enjoyed my first day of trouble-free startups in far too long. I even started and then shut off the car three straight times and the battery voltage was still at least 12.5 volts.
  12. Does anyone have a picture or part number for swapping in the third generation F-Body washer fluid reservoir?
  13. Well in my case, something got stuck behind the glove compartment and it wouldn't close. I thought it could wait until the next day when I was off, but it couldn't. The next morning I pulled the fuse and charged the battery with a 1 amp charger for a few hours and then it was fine.
  14. pretty funny. pretty cool video. if the front suspension sags as much on that car as it does on mine they are all dead now.
×
×
  • Create New...