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Mark 97 Cutlass Coupe

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About Mark 97 Cutlass Coupe

  • Rank
    Lurker
  • Birthday 01/03/1959

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  • Biography
    I've been a car guy my whole life. As a hobby, and a way to make a few bucks, I buy and fix wrecked late model cars. My 97 triple black with leather Cutlass Coupe is one of those cars. It had minor damage, and after I fixed it I decided to keep it. I have had it now for about 4 years, and I love it. Very dependable, safe, good looking, and great gas mileage.
  • Location
    Pittsburgh, Pa
  • Interests
    Body work, house renovation, real estate in general, travel
  • Occupation
    retired!!
  1. I went to the junkyard today, and here is what I found. I took the passenger seat out of the car ( 4 8mm bolts, as mentioned before), which makes everything much easier. Then, remove the entire back of the seat from the bottom. There are 3 13mm bolts on the side with the recliner, and one 13mm bolt on the other side. It takes a little prying to get the side opposite of the recliner out. Once the two pieces are apart,it is very easy to remove the bottom seat cover. There are two white plastic strips that hold the leather to the frame, and two side bars as well. When you carefully remove these items, the seat bottom, along with the foam pad, will lift right off. I also took the driver seat apart (couldn't get it out of the car since it was power, and I couldn't get to the bolts) and the seat frame and foam pad are identical to the passenger side. I laid the passenger seat frame (not the seat tracks, the actual frame the upholstery attaches to) on top of the driver side power tracks, and the bolts line up perfectly. It has to be same part. The seat backs will not directly interchange because of the way the seat back bolts to the seat bottom. But, it is very easy to undo and transfer the upper seat cover. Just pull apart the white plastic strips that hold the leather together on the bottom of the seat. Also take the rear seat access lever off. Reach inside the seat, and separate the cover from the foam, which is attached by velcro. You'l hear and feel the velcro as it comes apart, and then just genty pull the cover over the seat frame. I suggest you first try this on a junk yard car like I did so you don't accidently damage your good seat. Once you get the first seat apart it really is very easy. I would recommend cleaning and treating the leather prior to removing the seat back from the frame so that the leather is as supple as possible. Remember these seats are 18-23 years old, so they will be a little dirty and brittle. I cleaned and conditioned mine tonight with Lexol, and the difference is amazing after only one cleaning and conditioning.
  2. Tonight the engine in my Cutlass let go. I was just driving around town, and it started banging very loudly, and then died. Once it cooled down, I tried to start it and it ran for a few seconds, very rough, and very loud. So, I'm screwed. I have a few questions. First, does anyone know or have experience with Jasper engines, or know what they cost? I live in the Pittsburgh area, and am also thinking a used engine. Anybody have a rough idea what a used engine install might be? I really love my car, and it is so clean, I can't stand the thought of getting rid of it. It has just about 145,000 on it, and before this, everything worked perfectly . I know some of you guys live in the Pittsburgh area, so if you know of any good shops to recommend, please let me know. I'm going to the shop tomorrow (I had it towed tonight) to see what they have to say, but I'm afraid I already know the answer.
  3. Is the bucket seat/full seat rear seat set up an option, or year specific? I think every 95 has a full seat, but I just saw a 93 on ebay with a full rear seat. Is the rear trim on the quarter panels the same regardless of seat style? So, could you change the buckets to a full rear seat just using a coupe rear seat? Thanks.
  4. Does the strut screw in with the tool in your picture? Is there anything you don't know about these cars??
  5. I think I remember reading somewhere that the front strut is an insert, and the whole thing that the wheel/brakes attach to does not need to be removed? Is that true? Anyone know how it is done, and if it is a DIY kind of job?
  6. Well I got the passenger side done today, and have a few words of advice. First, get a really good T-60, not, like someone mentioned, some piece of crap. Next, have at least a 3 foot "helper" bar to put on your breaker bar for some leverage. Pull your guts out, and at least in my case, it broke free. Then, here is the important part, buy new bolts. The new ones, besides not being 17 years old and full of shit, have a much deeper groove for the T-60 to fit in. The bit goes almost all the way in on the new bolt, which will make doing this again in the next few years much easier. The only downside is that they are expensive at almost $7.00 each (at NAPA) but they fit perfectly. Tomorrow, the driver side, which I hope goes as well as the passenger side did.
  7. I guess I was just wondering why they did it in the first place. A regular bolt head is always going to be easier to grab onto than a torx, especially one that is 17 years old! I'm on my way to NAPA to return it and hopefully get the right one.
  8. I wonder why they don't just use 15mm bolts to hold on the caliper bracket, like the rear end of the car, which I just did, with no problem? Is a regular bolt available as a replacement? It would sure make removal easier, I think.
  9. Thanks for the photos and explanation. Obviously I have the wrong T-60. I do have an impact wrench, and a breaker bar, so once I get the right socket hopefully it will come apart. Thanks again for the help.
  10. I just went to the garage to get what I bought. It says T60H Tamper Proof Star Bit Socket. There is a hole in the center of the socket, and I swear it looks a little domed, instead of flat on the end. It looks different from all my other torx sockets. The one I bought must be for some specialized usage. When you took yours apart, did it come apart easily with a 1/2 breaker bar?
  11. Are there different kinds of T-60's? I just bought one from NAPA with my brake parts, thinking I had read somewhere that it was a T-60. But, the socket doesn't want to go all the way in, and when I applied a little pressure, the socket popped off, like it was the wrong size. The socket says something about being a safety socket, and has a small hole in the middle. Help!
  12. I'm trying to get off the bracket that holds the caliper, so I can replace the rotor. It has some sort of allen/torx head that I can't seem to match up with the tools I have. I have a T-60, a T-55 I think, and neither work. Is it an allen head bolt, or something else? If it is, does anyone know the size? Thanks.
  13. 95 Vert, do the studs visible through the trunk attach to the top of the strut? That is what I was trying to ask. You mention if they break that they need to be drilled out. I guess I am unclear how the top of the strut attaches to the strut tower. Do you know for sure if your convertible is the same as the coupe?
  14. The struts I'm looking to buy have the bearing already installed, with a new spring as well. Here is my question- if the upper strut mount bolts break during disassembly, does it matter? Are those three nuts attached to the bearing? My thinking is that it really doesn't matter if they break because all that stuff is getting replaced Am I right?
  15. Is the lowering spring you are talking about the monoleaf for the rear? It would fit my Cutlass? And the ST springs too? How much for both? My car rides kinda rough now because my rear struts are shot.
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