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ron350 last won the day on June 6 2016

ron350 had the most liked content!

About ron350

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/15/1954
  1. My car is a 96 Regal so this might not apply to your 97 Lumina. My 96 set a code once when the Purge Valve Solenoid got clogged from charcoal or rotten rubber EVAP lines. Removed it from the car applied 12 volts to the pins and blew out the black crud with caned air. Few years later it set the EVAP code again and every thing checked good and I gave up for a while. Had the car up on jack stands to change the fuel filter and found a split EVAP rubber line just in front of the gas tank. This is where the steel EVAP line changes to a rubber line and goes up and over the gas tank to the charcoal canister. From the factory the rubber EVAP line is just pushed on to the steel line with no clamp of any kind. When I pulled the split hose off the steel line was rusted so I had to sand and paint that before cutting off the split rubber and sliding it back on. I then installed a small screw clamp for ½ inch rubber hose to keep the water out and causing more rust. After this there were no more EVAP codes. Later on when I replaced the fuel pump I upgraded all of the EVAP lines with rubber fuel line. After 15 years the EVAP rubber lines were falling apart.
  2. That looks like the under hood light wire. What color are the two wires?
  3. Here is some information about replacing the fuel line o-rings. The same information should be on this forum but I can’t find it. There is lots of confusing and bad information in these threads about replacing the o-rings. There is no reason to remove the o-ring spacer inside the plastic fuel line fitting. You don’t what to use any kind of lubricant when removing and replacing the o-rings. GM used two #12 Viton o-rings in the larger supply line fittings and two #11 Viton o-rings in the smaller return fuel line fittings. Don’t be confused about the o-ring colors if the replacement o-ring is Black and the package says For Fuel Lines they will be Viton (Fluorcarbon). Don’t let some one talk you into using any other kind of o-ring material only use Viton (Fluorcarbon) o-rings. Nitrile and HNBR o-rings are not made for today’s gasoline so don’t use them unless you like fuel leaks.
  4. Almost every one here is going to disagree with this but here goes. Whatever trans fluid your car came with stay with that fluid because the clutch packs were set up for that fluid. If your car came with dex 3 stay with dex 3 especially if your transmission is having problems. GM no longer sells dex-3 but sells and licenses the sale of dex-6, which is synthetic and is thinner and slicker than dex-3. Maxlife is also a synthetic trans fluid. You can still buy dex-3 but companies like Castrol can no longer use the name dex-3 so they have to call it dex/merk.or MD-3. When I charged out the maxlife I used Havoline MD-3 trans fluid, which looks smells and feels like dex-3.
  5. Goldcamj I had the same rotten egg smell after changing to Maxlife. If you want that rotten egg smell to go away you will have to replace the Maxlife with a more expensive fluid. I ran a hose down the filler tube and pumped out all the fluid I could and then replaced it. I had to do that twice to finally get rid of that nasty smell.
  6. Yes the cruse control switches in the turn signal stalk can go bad. The small electrical connector on the back side of the turn signal stalk is just for the cruse control. You can unplug the connector and test the switches with an ohm meter. You can also pull the wiring connector on the cruse module and check for voltage on the pins but that is a pain.
  7. From your description the multi function switch is bad.
  8. I think 96 models were all electric cruse module and seam to have a high failure rate.
  9. Does a bad (or unplugged) air intake temp sensor lock out the compressor on a 94 like it does on my 96?
  10. Glad you found the problem. Can you post a picture of the spot where the wire shorted?
  11. I don’t know what year but I think the picture came from the GP forum so maybe 98 model.
  12. Thanks Schurkey that is a good looking ball-joint kit.
  13. Digitaloutsider renting a tie rod separator will do the trick if any part store rents one.. Arthritis has forced me to learn how to work smarter, slower and us a Hammer as little as possible. Having the correct tool for the job is now a must and no longer an option.
  14. Thanks Imp558 the purpose of the J-35917 is to separate the tie rod and ball joint without damaging the grease boot. My tie rod ends are 3 years old and I don’t want to bust the boots with a pickle fork.
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