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ron350 last won the day on June 6 2016

ron350 had the most liked content!

About ron350

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/15/1954
  1. Here is some information about replacing the fuel line o-rings. The same information should be on this forum but I can’t find it. There is lots of confusing and bad information in these threads about replacing the o-rings. There is no reason to remove the o-ring spacer inside the plastic fuel line fitting. You don’t what to use any kind of lubricant when removing and replacing the o-rings. GM used two #12 Viton o-rings in the larger supply line fittings and two #11 Viton o-rings in the smaller return fuel line fittings. Don’t be confused about the o-ring colors if the replacement o-ring is Black and the package says For Fuel Lines they will be Viton (Fluorcarbon). Don’t let some one talk you into using any other kind of o-ring material only use Viton (Fluorcarbon) o-rings. Nitrile and HNBR o-rings are not made for today’s gasoline so don’t use them unless you like fuel leaks.
  2. Almost every one here is going to disagree with this but here goes. Whatever trans fluid your car came with stay with that fluid because the clutch packs were set up for that fluid. If your car came with dex 3 stay with dex 3 especially if your transmission is having problems. GM no longer sells dex-3 but sells and licenses the sale of dex-6, which is synthetic and is thinner and slicker than dex-3. Maxlife is also a synthetic trans fluid. You can still buy dex-3 but companies like Castrol can no longer use the name dex-3 so they have to call it dex/merk.or MD-3. When I charged out the maxlife I used Havoline MD-3 trans fluid, which looks smells and feels like dex-3.
  3. Goldcamj I had the same rotten egg smell after changing to Maxlife. If you want that rotten egg smell to go away you will have to replace the Maxlife with a more expensive fluid. I ran a hose down the filler tube and pumped out all the fluid I could and then replaced it. I had to do that twice to finally get rid of that nasty smell.
  4. Yes the cruse control switches in the turn signal stalk can go bad. The small electrical connector on the back side of the turn signal stalk is just for the cruse control. You can unplug the connector and test the switches with an ohm meter. You can also pull the wiring connector on the cruse module and check for voltage on the pins but that is a pain.
  5. From your description the multi function switch is bad.
  6. I think 96 models were all electric cruse module and seam to have a high failure rate.
  7. Does a bad (or unplugged) air intake temp sensor lock out the compressor on a 94 like it does on my 96?
  8. Glad you found the problem. Can you post a picture of the spot where the wire shorted?
  9. I don’t know what year but I think the picture came from the GP forum so maybe 98 model.
  10. Thanks Schurkey that is a good looking ball-joint kit.
  11. Digitaloutsider renting a tie rod separator will do the trick if any part store rents one.. Arthritis has forced me to learn how to work smarter, slower and us a Hammer as little as possible. Having the correct tool for the job is now a must and no longer an option.
  12. Thanks Imp558 the purpose of the J-35917 is to separate the tie rod and ball joint without damaging the grease boot. My tie rod ends are 3 years old and I don’t want to bust the boots with a pickle fork.
  13. Does any one still have a Kent Moore J-35917 tie rod & ball joint separator? Years ago GnatGoSplat posted a picture of his J-35917. Some guy on ebay is has one for sale but the ball in the end of the bolt does not look right. I can’t find any other pictures of the end of the bolt so I am looking for some one that has a J-35917..
  14. If the system is so great why does it fill the intake manifold with oil? The factory map sensor clip was garbage but GM upgraded the part in kit # 89017274. I have had no trouble removing the map sensor with the upgraded clip.
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