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About White92Cutlass

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    Springfield, MO


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    My wife and kids, working on cars, guns, etc.

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  1. Need some help from the Gurus here. 1992 Cutlass Supreme 3.1, automatic stumbles on acceleration for a second and dies at times when accelerating from a stop (within a few feet). Shop threw parts at it, issue not fixed. Shop put new fuel pump, new fuel filter, 2 new coils, new coil pigtail, 3 new spark plugs, new throttle position sensor, new PCV and hose, and new crankshaft position sensor. Second shop said that bad fuel injectors was the problem and they guaranteed that that would fix it (for $1,600). I took it from the shop and replaced all 6 fuel injectors myself along with the upper intake gaskets for $80. However, issue is still there. Only code it is pulling is 45- left bank oxygen sensor. I unpugged the upstream oxygen sensor harness- it still dies. Also has irratic idle at times (up or down 500 rpms). Any help would be greatly appreciated- thanks!
  2. I've got the top frame disassembled and I don't remember what part goes where. I do have a four foot or so bar that has three straps attached to it. The straps are a little over a foot long each and they're in good shape. Is that what you're talking about?
  3. Took parts off of it over the years-it's missing brake pads, rotors, ignition control module, coils, battery, taillight, k&n air filter, door handle, catalytic converter, and probably some other stuff I can't remember right now. Engine was good (150k or so miles on it) when it was parked and it was driveable, but it was hard to start and has been sitting for 5 years. Don't want to sell it until the white one is gone in case I need some parts off of it.
  4. Parting out a convertible top frame from my old 1991 Cutlass Convertible parts car. Post or pm me if you need something. Also, I'm thinking about selling my rust free, low mileage, '92 Cutlass Convertible (the one in my signature pic) for $2,500. Only has 92,000 or so original miles on it, aftermarket wheels, and a top replacement a few years ago. I'm the second owner (bought it from a doctor with only 59k on it). Runs good, AC just needs recharged. Also have a red 1993 Cutlass Convertible parts car (bad tranny) that I would sell for $400 if the white one sells. If anyone has serious interest in one or both of these, please let me know-otherwise I'll probably putting them both on Craigslist this spring.
  5. This is the procedure that I followed:
  6. I'm changing the transmission (transaxle) filter in the '92 Cutlass Supreme (3.1, 4T60). How many quarts of tranny fluid will I need to dump back in it after the pan drop? Thanks!
  7. Since I already replaced the coolant temperature sensor, the ECM is the only other possibility? ECM most likely causing both the fan issue and the bouncing temp gauge issue? If so, I have ECMs from from a 1991 Cutlass Supreme Convertible and a 1993 Cutlass Supreme Convertible. Both are also 3.1 cars, If I remember correctly, the '91 ECM will work in my '92 but the '93 won't due to transmission differences. Is this correct? Also forgot to mention that I moved the wires under the hood with someone watching the gauge and no bouncing was observed.
  8. Had a few minutes to mess with the car today- Jumped the ALDL twice and both fans came on Removed primary and secondary fan relays and touched the prong slots on each with a test light. One slot on each relay spot lit up- the one closest to the passenger fender Pulled both fan harnesses and probed them with the test light while the light was hooked to the battery positive. The wire on each harness closest to the driver side lit up on each. Grounded the test light and probed again- no light on either harness when grounded. Started car and let it run for a little bit and the primary fan came on.
  9. mfewtrail- I will try that imp558- Didn't have time to work on it this week-been working on other cars- and now I'm sick so it will probably be next weekend or so before I get a chance to mess with it.
  10. Thanks for the replies. Imp558- I will have someone watch the gauge while i move the wiring and I'll check out the fan wiring more closely. I have already replaced the temperature sender unit. A/C blows cold. Padgett- I will check the relay voltage and jump the relay. I wouldn't mind if it was a bad thermostat as they're pretty easy (and cheap) to change out. mfewtrail- I grounded the test light to the car body. Should I have used the fan ground wire? The tester has an incandescent bulb and burned brightly when testing the secondary fan (equally as bright as the primary fan harness did). I'll be jumping the ALDL to check fan operation- thanks for the locations of A and B.
  11. Sometimes while driving, my temperature gauge will jump into the red and back down to normal two or three times causing the "check gauges" light to come on. I'll pull over and pop the hood, but the car does not seem to be trying to overheat. Also, I cannot get the secondary cooling fan on the passenger side to come on for any reason. Below are things I have tried so far: *Checked coolant level- fine *Put car on ramps and bled air out of coolant *Checked to make sure both the upper and lower radiator hoses were getting hot- they were *Checked fuses and replaced the fan relays under the hood *Replaced the temperature sender unit *Pushed down on fan relay to see if fan would come on- it wouldn't *Let engine run for over an hour- giving it gas at times to see if secondary fan would come on-it didn't. Primary fan always kept the temperature in the normal range during this time *Turned A/C on multiple times while running to see if secondary fan would come on-it didn't *Unplugged both cooling fans and tested for power with test light while engine running- both fan harnesses lit the tester up *Unplugged the secondary fan harness and let it hang under the car- plugged two extra cooling fans I had laying around into the harness and tried the above stuff to see if they would kick on- they didn't *Checked for burned or broken wiring- didn't see any *Checked to see if A/C Clutch spins when A/C is on-it does *Checked interior heat- it's hot Can someone help me out with this? Thanks!
  12. I put 50 screws in the defroster vent to fix the bowing issue (painted the screw heads black) and then reinstalled the dash. I could see that the driver's side of the dash pad cleared the speaker, but was unable to see the clearance on the passenger side. However, it seems to have cleared, there is no vibration at any volume, and it sounds great.
  13. Just bought and installed some Kenwood KFC-1095PS 220 Watt 3-way speakers in the dash of my Cutlass. Problem is that the cone in the center of the speakers sticks up about 3/4 of an inch higher than the factory dash speakers. I'm afraid that I'm going to rip it off when I re-install the dash pad. I'm sure someone here has some experience with this. Just need to know whether I need to pull the new speakers out and send them back or whether it will clear without issue. Thanks.
  14. My Cutlass convertible door wasn't opening right from the outside (handle was not broken) so I adjusted the exterior handle linkage. It opened and closed fine several times and then I shut it and locked it. Door would not open from the inside or outside after that. I have changed several of these door handles over the years and have never had this problem (I have since learned the importance of testing with a finger before shutting the door!). Anyway, i removed the top half of the door panel (as much as I could get to) and moved every rod and door jamb related mechanism I could for two hours without any luck. Ended up peeling the exterior door handle from the car like a banana. Started from the top and worked my way down. Only took a minute. The door handle metal was soft and pulled off the screws easily. I was then able to disconnect the rods and use the handle of a screwdriver to push the shorter rod down. Door opened right up. Wish I would have done this first as I get my door handles from pick-n-pull for $10 and can switch them in 10 minutes. Something good did come out of this ordeal, though, Since the door panel was halfway off, I decided to do some needed repairs to the door. When we bought the car, the door check that holds the door open and also keeps it from opening too far was broken. The exterior lock rod had also come loose inside the door. I pulled the door panel completely off and reattached the lock rod. I took the door check out and found that not only was it broken, it had ripped one of the mounting holes! I pounded the ripped metal back into place. Knowing for years that I needed to replace the door check, I had been saving one from a parts car. As the door check was red, I painted it white and installed it using a couple wide washers on the bolt that had the the ripped mounting hole. It worked great! While the door panel was off, I also fabric glued the carpet edges that were starting to come off. Now to go get a door handle!
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