MemphisMan

Seems like I'm on a constant LQ1 myth buster crusade on fb. People who've never owned or maintained one acting like they're an authority. The biggest myth being how difficult it is to change a timing belt followed closely by constant head gasket failures and massive oil leaks. Then I get called a dick because I call them out for disseminating false information

It looks like the seats were reupholstered using red and graphite and they just don't fit well. I've never seen seat covers that use the same pattern for these particular seats. Interesting choice of colors. I don't hate it. 87k miles...if it still has the original timing belt the engine is on borrowed time. Just calculate the cost of a new timing belt kit into what he wants to invest. They aren't hard to change if you change them before they break. The plug wires have been changed and the fuel rail cover is torqued down too much, so some work has probably been done. Maybe the LIM gaskets. The car looks clean. As long as the bottom isn't rusty I'd say $1900 would be a fair price. These verts are rising in price. Slowly, but they are rising.

My '91 CS coupe has one plastic mirror and one metal one. Way down on my list is to find another metal one so they match.

Did you change the spark plug wire and plugs yet? It's always a good idea to draw a diagram of which spark plug wires plug into which coil pack. I put masking tape at each end of the wires, based on where they plugged into the coil packs. I made the one farthest to the passengers side #1, then numbered each wire as I pulled them off of the coil pack, moving toward the drivers side, which I called #6. Then I matched up the wires by length, and transferred the numbering to the new wires, then reinstalled. Which ever way you do it, just keep track of which plug wire goes to which coil pack post.

Using all Caps = yelling

I don't think I've seen that many W's total in all of my jy runs. I think they're all still on the road down here. Thank you so much for grabbing those parts. I can't wait to see if those b pillar trim pieces work on my coupe. Yeah, can't believe about those red wires being on there either. Too bad you couldn't get them out whole.

I love that fact that this car will be back on the road soon. Honestly, one reason I've stayed away from the TGPs is my lack of knowledge around how to fix the brakes. So the fix is a reliable one that lasts?

You should put all those HUD units on top of your dash and take a picture. Post it on FB and try to convince people you actually have them hooked up!

Welcome to the forum. Is this your first w-body? A Cutlass Supreme convertible was my first, a '95. Still have it, along with a '91 coupe. Lots of good information on this site.

Super. Thank you. I hope you are able to sell the car. I'd just hate to see those trim pieces end up in the yard...or the car for that matter.

Super job getting her back on the road! Really glad to see the time and effort pay off for you!

If your beloved vert doesn't get sold and you decide to scrap it, there are at least a couple of parts I'd like off of it...the outside B pillar trim on both sides. If I could buy them from you, they would continue life on my '91 coupe.

Manic, I don't know how the pre-production designation normally works. Is it probable that these 3 cars, being pre-production, were never sold to the public and have long since been destroyed? And ditto on the Sandrift/blue sedan...of the 3, that's the one I'd want.

Interesting. The first two are sedans (VIN's 6th character = 5). The last one is a coupe (VIN's 6th character = 1) Looks like they were all base (S) models too (VIN's 5th character = H)

Probably left-over LQ1s that were brought to the line to be put in '96 cars and were never meant to go in the '97s.