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MemphisMan

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MemphisMan last won the day on April 19

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About MemphisMan

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 10/28/1969

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Memphis, Tennessee

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  • Biography
    -Born 28 October 1969 in Fairbanks Alaska.

    -Married since 1995 and have 3 sons.

    -Retired in 2010 after serving 22 years in the U.S. Navy as a Deep Sea Diver (think of the movie "Men of Honor"), and later as an IT Manager. Now working as a Consultant for WBB Consulting and Technical Services-www.wbbinc.com.

    -I've owned a convertible in some form or fashion since I was 19.
  • Location
    Memphis, TN
  • Interests
    Fast cars and loose women, neither of which I have.
  • Occupation
    Project Manager, SAIC

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. I'm not sure. I had the back seat out on mine yesterday and could've unhooked the RKE to see, but our timing was off, sorry man. I'm wondering if you just remove all of the aftermarket stuff if the majority of the electrical issues would resolve themselves?
  2. If the LIMs start to fail, the first sign would RPM surging or high RPMs on cold starts, with RPMs returning to normal when the engine heats up. If your RPMs are normal upon a cold start, your LIMs are probably fine. The process to change them isn't really that bad.
  3. Yeah, it seems all of the 3.4 verts in 95 were pre-wired for HUD, not sure about the 3.4 coupes or sedans. I'm also not sure what you mean about sending oil off to blackstone to see if the LIM was already done or not? When I bought my car in 2010, I wasn't looking for the color combo I have, I was looking for the lowest miles one I could afford. Back then, if I had the choice of a red or black one with the same low miles, I might've taken one of those over the green. But over the years, and as I've gotten older (50 in 2 months), I've come to appreciate the color even more and especially after the burlwood treatment. When done properly, this color combo rocks and it looks like you're on your way with the burlwood treatment too. I'd recommend having Micah do up a set of steering wheel buttons for you. Would love to see pics of your 63 Cutlass too!
  4. I took my wife to dinner tonight in the vert. It was a nice evening and we had the top down. Took the long way home just to drive lol.
  5. That's a good place to put the vert top switch. I don't think I've seen that done before. It looks good there! What did you do with the original housing it was in? That is a one year only piece, so I'd hold on to it. I paid decent money to get a spare one to hydrodip so I could keep the original one pristine. Did you know the empty space in the headlight switch was supposed to be for HUD controls? They were going to offer a HUD in the 95 Cutlass Supreme, but pulled the plug at the last minute. You can see the switch in your owners manual. As a matter of fact, if your car is a 3.4 DOHC car, it's actually prewired for HUD. I found a light switch with HUD controls about 3 years ago and ended up installing HUD in my vert.
  6. The RKE module on the '95 verts is located behind the rear seat back. You can see it from the trunk if you remove the carpet, but the best way to get to it is to remove the rear seat back. It will be a black box wrapped in blue plastic with two wire connectors going to it. Here it is on my 95 vert. You won't have the relay to the left of the RKE module. I put that there to make the parking lights flash when I lock/unlock the doors.
  7. Finally figured out what the issue was...it was the vacuum modulator. A $22 part from AutoZone held in by one bolt easily accessable on the transmission right under the air box. So glad to have it back up and running again!
  8. Do you need a replacement because the hinge assembly cracked, thus you only need the bottom part with the hinge? I'm assuming that only because you didn't mention a color choice.
  9. Probably N/A at this point sounds like, but for whats it worth, my RKE module would not go into program mode (using the jumper) because the solder joints were bad in the module. I used a test light to verify I had power going to the RKE module. Once verified, I perfomed the RKE solder fix, then it would enter program mode. I know you have an aftermarket device installed, but you could still have a faulty RKE module, but not sure it matters at this point.
  10. I'd price a new headliner and consider doing it all at once if the budget allows for it. The worst feeling I've had doing projects like this is not replacing a wearable part when I've had the chance, then wishing I would've spent the extra $
  11. Your car has two of these bleeders. Both are circled below. It looks like the heater inlet hose one is good (the one closest to the firewall).
  12. Great catch. Yeah, that thing is sheared for sure. Here is what it should look like: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I understand the thought of thinking you should be able to do it by yourself. I suffer from the same thing lol.
  14. Those seats really came clean! That interior is beautiful! Use that Turtle Wax upholstery cleaner a few times and they'll look a little better each time. I'm going to have my seat foams replaced at some point and I'll give the cushions a super detailed cleaning at that point. Then I'll scotch guard them. Nice work jiggity, now lets hear that bad boy run!
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