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gmrulz4u

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  1. Can anyone explain how my 10 month old battery is suddenly completely dead and reading only 1.9-2.0 volts total? How the heck can 5 of the 6 cells be dead? I have NEVER read a car battery that low before... THANKS:)
  2. Does the coil spring and strut assembly have to be removed in order to change the lower seat that the coil sits into? Mine gave out while in a drive through today and twisted so much that it sliced the inner side of my tire completely open about a foot long gauge on the passenger side. Any step-by-step how to? THANKS! PS It's an 89 Cutlass Supreme
  3. Jumper the thicker Yellow and Purple wires coming out of the Park/Neutral Swich together, am I bypassing the switch? THANKS PS It's an 89 Cutlass Supreme...
  4. I'm a little confused here, I think... How many Park/Neutral Safety switches is there on an 89 Cutlass Supreme? Because it appears that there's two ie. One is used by the ECM, the other is in-line with the 12-volt wire going from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid to energize the starter and crank the engine. Is this correct? The one the ECM uses is pretty much useless as far as starting goes in that the car will still start if it's defective or if the ECM is seeing the car is in Drive or Reverse etc. The other one, mounted in the engine compartment above the transaxle, is what can cause no-cranking issues if it's defective, right? Anyone have anymore insight on this? THANKS!
  5. Specifically, the "Integrated Electronic EGR Valve", not the digital one, when you look at the diaphragm itself with the engine off, does it come down COMPLETELY to the base where the metal lip folds in? Or is there a few millimeters of space? Because I am kind of confused with my 89 Cutlass right now. I just bought a new Actron OBDI Scanner for it, seen here: And it works really good but I am not sure if my ECM is screwed or not. Why? Because when my engine is off, or running at idle, my EGR Position Sensor is saying that it's opened between 23-26%, sometimes it says 23, sometimes 24, sometimes 26. Even though the EGR Duty Cycle (Command from the ECM) is 0%!! Now, besides the fact that the EGR valve itself or the pintle position sensor might be faulty, why in the hell is the ECM not recognizing this and setting a Code 32!?? The only codes I get here and there are 44 & 45 for the Lean or Rich condition. But my Service Manual specifically states that the ECM will set a code 32 if the EGR Duty Cycle does not match the EGR Valve Position (as reported back by the Pintle Sensor). I can even get it to be way off while driving if I sit and watch it closely ie. I can get it where I am cruising with barely any throttle and the ECM will command about a 15% EGR but the sensor still shows 26%, and STILL no code! I have never seen the EGR Valve Position Sensor show less than 23% opened since I've been scanning it for 2 weeks now, engine on or off. I thought it might be the EGR filter being plugged but that can't be because it's showing it's opened even with the engine off and the key just in the Run position, and therefore no vacuum to even pull the valve opened. So what's going on here!!??? Is my ECM messed-up?? Is my valve bad?? Is the sensor in the valve bad?? Is there a bad connection?? I'm confused Thanks everyone!
  6. I was testing my EGR Valve the other night and all was looking good until I read in my 89 Cutlass Factory Service Manual that the EGR Valve should only hold between 3-7" hg of vacuum and mine was hold around 10" hg or more steady... What is the big deal with how much it holds? Does it mean it might not leak down fast enough or something when the EGR is commanded OFF? THANKS!
  7. Lately I have been going through the various systems and sensors on my 89 Cutlass just to make sure everything is within spec and I suspect my Canister Purge Solenoid is bad, in other words, stuck in the OPEN/PURGE position. The first step in diagnosing it is to apply 10" hg of vacuum to the port side of the Solenoid with the Key in the ON position, I try and try but it won't hold any vacuum at all, it leaks down immediately. Therefore it is purging all the time and recirculating fuel vapor even at idle, which is probably why I have been running Rich for the longest time, especially at idle. Anyone have any experience with this system as far as diagnosing, replacing, issues they can when faulty etc... THANKS!
  8. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=001&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=110158904653&rd=1 It's pretty sweet, brand-new, over 20 pages of all the 1989 Cutlass models...
  9. I ordered the original 1989 Brochure/Catalogue from eBay that covers the entire Cutlass range from that year and it says that the tire size on the 89 Supreme International is P215/65R/16 when I always that they were P215/60R/16 ?? So were they 60 or 65 from the factory?
  10. That's right, everytime I fill the tank, I can hear and see gas down near the wheel well spill out all over the place? It's not coming out of the filler hole, somewhere behind the rear drivers quarter panel...I would say about a quarter litre everytime... Anyone know what it could be?? It never leaks any other time or in any other circumstances... THANKS!
  11. Thanks Brian... What exactly is the "cable sheathing"? Is that the hard casing that goes around the actual cable itself? I always thought you're supposed to slide the entire plastic part that has the button on it to the rear, ie away from the throttle body?
  12. I have been trying to adjust this thing forever now, it's just so damn hard to get to being tucked way down and behind the plenum! Anyways, I can REACH it with a screw driver, impossible by hand, but I think that what I always that was the adjustment button was actually not it at all? When I look down at the adjuster housing I see a black plastic square that looks like a button, I push down on it with a screw driver and it feels and looks like it's going down a bit but nothing happens. Now, when I look at all the pictures online of the adjustment button it seems like it's supposed to be an all metal button in the shape of a "D" and is on the SIDE of the adjuster housing and NOT the top!? In other words the button is facing the firewall, and not facing UP towards the hood, is this true?? Here's some pics I'm referring to: Is this what the TV Cable on an 89 Cutlass is supposed to look like as well?? THANKS!
  13. Yeah I'm pretty sure you guys are right with the A/C suggestion. I'm pretty sure it does look exactly like the harness/plug that goes to the MAP Sensor. I don't see any missing caps for any schrader valves etc...
  14. Sorry I didn't realize it was that hard to picture a 3-pin plug/harness in your head?? I thought it was common sense as to what one looks like...seeing as there's about 30 in the engine compartment itself...nevermind...
  15. On an 89 Cutlass Supreme, if you remove your air cleaner housing/assembly, you'll see a 3 pin harness that contains a Light Green wire with a Black stripe, a Dark Green wire, and a Black wire with a White stripe, but it's just sitting there and not plugged into anything. It comes out of the same loom that has the little harness going into the transmission... Anyone know?? I think it's just there for older models that still use the MAF(Mass Air Flow) rather than the updated MAP system...
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