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About George

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/11/1963


  • Location
    Manly, Ia
  • Interests
    Cars, Trucks, Motorcycles (Americian)
  • Occupation
    Electrician by trade, Gearhead by choice

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  1. Preheating pertains to cast iron, sadly I believe the door handles are made of pot metal and not sure it can be welded, but like you say, you're not out anything. Who knows you may school us all. Good luck.It would be nice to make some out of billet aluminum, maybe polished, oh yeah! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Not really any good sources, seems all that I've found have heavy sanding marks and a semi gloss finish so I took mine to a body shop friend and had them smoothed and painted gloss black so at least they match the trim pieces around them. The wheels are 17x8 Eagle alloys +38 offset painted Duplicolor Stainless Steel, but have been discontinued for about 5yrs or so. At least you have the specs. The rears are installed with a 3/16in. spacer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Welcome. Hey, would you look at that. Three post in a row with the same color rides. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Welcome. It's always nice to get some........Cutty! We were down in Fayetteville checking out the Civil War Battlefields over the summer. I've had my '94 Cutty Vert 6yrs now and has been a fun DD although my drivers door handle broke yesterday morning. It's a good thing I've got spares. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Welcome to the site!I have a 2001 Black Monte Carlo SS steering rack in my '94 Bright Aqua Metallic Cutlass Supreme Vert. Love it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Selling my Hella projector headlights. I thought I could get these to fit my Cutlass Convertible, but not without destroying the headlight mounting panel and making brackets that mount to the core support. As a daily driver I need something easily repairable. The low's take H7 and the hi's take H9 bulbs. These projectors work with halogen, hid and led. I will include 5000k hid (bulbs only) for the lows and extreme white halogen bulbs for the hi's. I bought these about 3yrs ago from summit racing for a little over $450. I'm asking $250 OBO shipped. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Welcome Andy, more W's, more knowledge, more fixing, more mod's, more FUN! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I've had very good luck with Advance Autoparts Wearever Platinum professional ceramic pads. I think they grip better than Advance Autoparts semi metallic pads, minimal dust and no more warped rotors. This will be my fist time using cross drilled rotors. I drilled my own using Advance Autoparts rotors, they do make a whirring sound when on the brakes hard. I only hear it when the windows and/ or the top is down and only when on the brakes hard, otherwise I don't notice it. My old '90 Regal went through rotors in six months with NAPA semi metallic pads as well as our 2000 Grand Cherokee with the factory pads. My Police Dept. uses police approved pads and rotors from NAPA. The rotors are zinc plated all over. I'm not sure if they are available for the first gen as I wonder if any were equipped for police duty. I will check with the City mechanics about the wear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. George

    Timing Belt

    I don't recall how you drain / compress the tensioner but I did reuse the old one and put a new pulley on it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. George

    Timing Belt

    When I did mine about six years ago I just shut the engine off, removed the stuff mounted to the pass front fender, the accessory belt and the covers. With the timing belt exposed I marked the cam sprockets and crank sprocket in relation to the block, loosened the tensioner and removed the belt. I replaced the idler pulleys, tensioner and reinstalled the belt, starting with the crank pulley and working counterclockwise keeping the belt tight and in the cogs until I got to the tensioner. I made sure the belt was tight on the sprockets, the marks made prior were all lined up and pulled the pin out of the tensioner and tightened it to the recommended preload torque and put everything back together. The confusing part for me was figuring how to drain and refill the tensioner with oil and where to put the pin. Doing it this way still took 4-5 hrs, put I didn't hurry as it was my first time. All the directions were in the timing belt replacement kit box. I got a Gates brand kit for about $160 If the timing belt breaks or comes off then you have to go through the cam timing procedure, removing the upper intake manifold and valve covers, using the cam hold down tools, but if the timing is good it's not necessary. I checked and local shops wanted from $700- 1300. Ahh the LQ1, it is a love hate relationship. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. The 4x6 speakers are for the doors of '94 and earlier Cutlass coupes. '94 and earlier Verts use 4in for the dash speakers. My '90 Regal had 4in dash speakers as well now that I think about it Can't say about the GP's or the Cutlass Sedan. Well, at least some are eliminated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Did you buy the car back or just getting it back out? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I believe Herb Adams set up his suspensions that way. Nice ride, but if you drive over a dime you can tell if it's heads or tails. lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. The Moog bushings I've seen so for are approx. 75- 80% as stiff as poly. I think you would see/ feel a bigger difference going from S rated tires to H rated, and not much more difference with W, Y and Z rated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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