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narnone

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About narnone

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  • Birthday 07/13/1959

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    http://www.hlsm.com

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    PA

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  1. As for how we replaced the timing belt, I bought two Kent-Moore alignment tools. We followed a 1994 factory manual I have. A little more background. The engine would idle OK most of the time, but sometimes it would idle very rough and would cut out. I mean it would really rock and roll. Starting it afterward would be difficult and would have to crank the engine. You would be at a light, engine idling fine, hit the gas and the engine dies. Very dangerous. In this scenario, I would place it in neutral and it would start right up. I have a 1994 manual because we used to own a 1994. I have replaced the EGR earlier. I ordered all of the 1993 manuals on Friday. Next week I have a boat show to get ready for, so not much will be done on her. Thank you for the value on the vacuum reading. Tried both carb cleaner and starter fluid, nothing. The plan of attack: 1. Forget about the transmission for now, it has no bearing on this issue and will be trouble shoot after this issue is resolved. 2. Verify our testing to date to valid. 3. Remove the plenum, do a visual and then a compression and leak down test. .......If the leak down test shows the cylinder cannot hold pressure, I know what head is giving me the issue. 4. Remove the front of the engine and check the timing marks and re-align if needed. 5. If that does not fix it, go buy a 1999-2002 Buick with a 3.8 and flip it in. My wife loves the Olds. It's comfortable, good fuel economy, and the only one like it around. Has anyone ever swapped a 3.8L into this body. I would want to swap the entire drive train. I am very tired of these 3.4. Replaced the engine in the 1994 once. This one has always had issues. GM did a poor design on this.
  2. I have several vacuum gauges. I will verify. But it appears to match the way the engine is running. Vacuum that low even effects the power brake booster. It pulses as the RPM's change because the vacuum will shoot up with high rpm's and foot off the throttle. Which we see on the gauge. When accelerating the gauge goes to 0, which is what I expect. If the timing belt was off on one side by say a tooth, would the engine run? I am leaning toward that. But I will do all my tests before going there. A leak down test would find that. It does have plenty of power. On the transmission, what makes it shift? I thought this was a dumb transmission.
  3. I have owned this car for years, 1993 Convertible. The last two has been a nightmare. I kept telling myself I would get around to fixing it. I believe I have a vacuum leak. Sprayed carb cleaner all around and no difference. Last year the tranny would not shift out of second. Pulled and rebuilt the tranny. My guy said it was a little worn, but nothing that would prevent it from shifting. He felt it’s a vacuum issue with the modulator. Put the new tranny in and same issue. Started looking at the vacuum. Removed and plugged the vacuum lines around the MAP sensor and checked the vacuum. 8 inches of vacuum. If this was a carbed engine, it would barely run. What should the correct vacuum reading be? We are going to do more testing tomorrow, but would like to know what it should be. Usually at idle I expect to see 15 inches of vacuum. Does that hold true to this engine? History: 3 years ago we had to fix the leak on the plug for the distributer hole. Meant taking off the heads which meant removing the timing belt. I bought the tool and I believe the timing is correct. Here is the plan of attack: First, what is the correct Vacuum reading at idle? Plug ALL vacuum ports at the engine to insure there are no external leaks. If vacuum not right, spray with carb cleaner to see if there is a vacuum leak. If none found, remove the plenum. Once removed, do a compression test and a leak down test. If the valves are out of time, I should see a poor leak down test. If it fails, I now found my problem. Insure the plenum has no issues and install with new gasket. Are there any other items I should be looking at? The mounting for the MAP sensor has the vacuum ports for the tranny, inside vacuum. It’s plastic. Can this crack?
  4. Thank you. I down loaded tunerpro RT. I hope to try it over the weekend.
  5. I have a 1993 Olds Cutlass Convertible. It has a 3.4L. I am looking for a diagnostic program like Datamaster. I have the cables to connect to my laptop, and I use the Datamaster program on my 1995 Trans Am, but I cannot find one for the 1993 Cutlass. I am having an issue with the engine shutting off. It happens at idle. It can happen when slowing down, or from a full stop accelerating slowly. It idles smooth. The Cutlass is dangerous as you do not know when this will happen. The radio or other items do not lose power. I need to record what is going on and then page through it.
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