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Taylor last won the day on April 9

Taylor had the most liked content!

About Taylor

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  • Birthday 12/04/1978

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    Brazoria, Tx

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  1. Button layout does not have much to do with anything... Its the airbag or control's versus radio style. Example, the 95-97 Cutlass Supreme Airbag has Radio on the right side, AC on the left side and uses a 2 Din Oldsmobile Specific radio. The Oldsmobile Silhouette airbag has JUST radio controls on both side, but uses a Chevy radio (older), or the newer one that gets the VIN from the BCM (meaning the Silhouette does not get the Oldsmobile specific radio, or at least none that I've seen with the 2 din radio). If you hook a Silhouette airbag into a Cutlass Supreme, then the Silhouette airbag will default to Cutlass Supreme Button setup (even though the airbag has just radio controls, it will do radio on right and AC on left, and the volume button is the only one that will work like its labeled). Also, if you put a Grand Prix or Chevy steering wheel into a Cutlass Supreme, it will only do the Cutlass Supreme button setup. From what I can tell, Chevy, and Pontiac radios all use the same signals (seeing that the Silhouette airbag and the Grand Prix steering wheel controls function the same). I've not tested a Buick 2 din radio yet, but I get the feeling it will probably work like the Cutlass Supreme radio.
  2. What spark plugs did you put in the car when you did them? I know it might seem minor, but 60 degree engines are picky about what plugs they like. If you put platinum of any kind, iridium, or anything bosch crap (especially the +2's or +4's), then I'll bet that is part of the problem. The 3.1 mpfi engine is happiest with good ole AC Delco R44LTSM plugs. The waste-spark DIS system on the 3.1 runs hotter than most platinum plugs can handle. You get about 3-5K miles on them and it burns the platinum right out of them (especially if they are cheaply made, or you are running a higher than normal compression).
  3. The top cover thingie still needs some work done too it. Sanding, filling, smoothing, etc. Interior needs to be vacuumed but my vacuum cleaner is on the fritz.
  4. oh damn, I never posted pics of the interior. 2000 Grand Prix center console with Buick Regal shifter knob (since taking this pic, I put in the newer graphite airbag and added HUD. Airbag swap was due to the contact plate of the old airbag messing up and losing horn function). And also added a 2000 Grand Prix overhead console. After I get the HUD cover finished, and the interior cleaned back up, I'll post updated pics.
  5. Actually, I love the HID High beams. Damn good light output (I live down a really long, straight dark country road). The problem with the high beam HID's is that the LOW beams are also really bright, so if someone flashes me thinking my highs are on, It does not do me any good to flash them back since the HIGH's have to "warm up".
  6. Been a while since I updated. Hell, didn't even update after getting the large port intake swap done. Got it done successfully (a year and a half ago), been driving the car ever since without any major problems. Every once in a while, the transmission will do something stupid, but its not been that bad. Just finished up (last night) installing a HUD and thought I would post some pics. First of all, the engine back together after doing the large port intake swap. 3400 upper and lower intakes, 3400 throttle body, and not shown in the pic, but added a Cutlass Convertible strut tower bar (since I had 2 laying around). Added "puddle" lights to the doors. Unfortunately they have the newer style Oldsmobile emblem, but I still like them. Added HID's to the high, low and foglights. In retrospect, adding them to the HIGH beams was a BAD idea due to them needing 5-10 seconds to "warm up". The taillights started developing cracks in them, so I NightShaded them to cover it up. Just finished up the biggest project in a while. Pulled the dash out to installed a HUD, and to fix some wiring problems. Dash out hole cut and HUD test fitted in (the Cutlass Supreme dash already has provision for the HUD. You just have to cut 2 slots for the clips that hold it down, and drill 2 small holes for the screw holes that hold it in place. The Cutlass defroster vent cover cut to fit, and then cut out the middle part of a 2000 Grand Prix HUD cover to experiment with fiberglassing it in. The cover fiberglassed. Its NOT PERFECT, but I'm happy with it considering this was my first time EVER playing with fiberglass. I still need to do some trimming and sanding, and maybe get some body filler to smooth it out some but all in all I think its pretty good for a first attempt. Unfortunately, I don't have any pics of the cover installed in the car. We had a cold front blow in so I didn't get to finish test fitting it. When I installed it, the hole part goes down into the HUD unit and it presses the mirror so that you can't see the image. I need to trim it up some, but hopefully in the next couple of days I'll get that trimmed up more and get a good pic of it installed. Lastly, a pic of the test drive with it in. The only problem is the HIGH BEAM light stays on (I think its due to the HID's). The RADIO feature does not work, but I didn't do this for the radio, I did it for the Speed.
  7. Hell, that is more of an airbag thing and even if the airbag looks the same, the connector can be different, and the airbag itself can be mounted different. I just swapped my tan 97 Cutlass steering wheel with a 99~ish Silhouette steering wheel, and the airbag parts are totally different even though the bag itself looks identical (other than colour, and the silhouette having the SWOOSH instead of the rocket). The Cutlass airbag was held on with 4 torx bolts and had a pigtail coming out to plug the airbag into. The Silhouette steering wheel had 4 mounting tabs bolted into it, and the airbag itself was pushed in and held with spring loaded clips. Also the airbag didn't have a wiring pigtail. It looked like the airbag connected was pushed directly into the middle of the back of the airbag. I was able to reuse my old airbag torx bolts with the airbag itself, but I would not be able to use the newer airbag at all without at least replacing the clockspring (which I want to do anyways because of wanting to add steeringwheel controls). From my looking into this, I think the main difference now between the different GM clocksprings is probably the airbag connector. Need to do more research but for now funds are limited.
  8. he might not be interested in an engine swap like that. I know I want more power but not enough to swap in a buick engine. the large port 3100 and 3400 intakes are basically the same, just different numbers on top. Don't need to worry about swapping it. I've heard that the large port 3100's got the 56mm throttle body as well, but I would still swap on a 3400 one just in case. I've not tried to confirm for myself if they did it, so better safe than sorry in that aspect.
  9. I'm having trouble even figuring out how it could cause any issues. It connects the rear valve cover to the air intake. Its not one of the "vacuum" lines that causes issues due to air being pulled in to the intake. Of the actual vacuum lines, there is 1, the one that goes from the fuel pressure regulator to the MAP, and 2, the one that goes from the PCV to the top of the intake manifold next to the throttle body then back to the EVAP purge solenoid, then there is 3, the one that goes from the back corner of the manifold by the alternator to supply vacuum to the cars interior accessories, then there is 4, the BIG ASS ONE that connects to the brake booster, and then the last one I can think of is 5, the metal one on the front corner near the throttle body that goes down to connect to the transmission shift modulator. Those are the only "vacuum" lines on the car. That one that goes to the rear valve cover is not a "vacuum" line so I'm not sure how it could cause any kind of drivability problems (hell, I've forgotten to put it into the car completely and other than an annoying whistle noise, had no issues with drivability. I would stick a new PCV valve on it, and then either wedge your old pipe, or get a different style one that fits better, and call it a day. This is definitely a head scratcher.....
  10. i ordered the hex inserts from the stealership but that was about 10 years ago. They were not that expensive. Not sure if you can still do that. I did both with and without the aux springs (but my 88 had the SOLID ones instead of the "8" ones). In the end, I removed the aux springs when I did my rear struts (mostly due to not being able to compress the solid springs enough to get the rear struts in). I noticed a difference, but I think it was more from replacing bad rear struts with good ones than the removal. Also, the car didn't sit any different in the rear when it was all said in done that I could tell.
  11. The only sensor I can think of offhand would be the engine coolant temp sensor. The older most likely has the 2 sensor setup, and the 97 should have the 3 wire single sensor setup. I would swap the engine itself from the monte into the Cutlass, reuse the cutlass wiring and pcm. You have the complete car so the sensors you KNOW are bad on the monte, replace those with ones for the 97 cutlass, then check the coolant temp sensor. Not sure what year the swapped from the 2 wire to the 3 wire, but the one on the cutlass might still be good.
  12. Milzy has been around for a while, and I've SEEN some of the crap that they sell in person. They just want your money. To say a problem of a faulty PCV system can't be "fixed" is proof that they would rather you spend money on parts to them to bypass rather than a trip to the junkyard to get replacement or updated parts to actually address the original problem. When I start to work on a vehicle, before I do anything "performance" to it, the first step is always MAKE SURE THE DAMN THING RUNS RIGHT FIRST!!!!!! If you buy a car, and it does not run right, and you just jump right into your engine swap, and you get it all done, and it STILL does not run right are you dealing with a bad engine that you JUST swapped in? a bad computer? a bad wiring problem from what you just installed? a problem from the car wiring? a problem under the dash? a improperly connected tail light wire (i've seen that happen!)???????? Make sure the damn thing runs right FIRST. That alone is one of the best things you can do to these cars. THEN you look into performance, or harder to address things. FYI, I had the bad pcv problem on my car as well. You know what caused it? Heat from the egr valve caused the plastic rear breather pipe to warp and crack. I replaced it with an updated style breather tube from a newer 3400 car, and problem solved. Total cost? A trip to the junkyard in Austin, $2 to enter the damn yard, and about $1 for the pipe itself (but I got several so still a good deal).
  13. I don't care for the grand prix twisted 5-spokes... For some odd reason they make me hungry for pretzel sticks..... Just something about them..... There is 2 different style rims I've heard of referred to as "torque star's" so not sure which ones you are referring too. I've heard of the twisted 5-spokes referred too as "torque star" but the original gm torque star wheel was on the Bonneville.
  14. i miss the car, I just dont miss the engine. The thing that stands out too me, for the Cutlass 5-spokes, the center of the wheel where it bolts to the car sticks out further than the rim. I hate that look. For the GP's, the center is more inside, and the rim sticks out further. Its really probably about the same, but with the GP's being a 16X7 vs the 16x6.5 of the Cutlass, I guess its more exaggerated on the cutlass. I am looking for new wheels for my Cutlass, but will not get anything until it gets closer to time for new tires. So far I'm considering the GP 5-spokes, the newer GP twisted crosslaces, the Impala 5-spokes (that look very similar to the older B-Body ones), and AE 077's Decision will be made next year probably.
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