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Cutlass350

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Everything posted by Cutlass350

  1. Iirc, the Quad4 and the LX5 (3.5L V6) also have one or more lifting points. When I did the Quad4 head gasket and bearings, I had to remove the head. So, the lifting points also had to come off. :-P Btw, some times, the lifting brackets(if separate) may have been removed and not put back on. I did that on my Mustang, since the bracket was a PITA, and often in the way. For many older V8 Mustangs, it's rare to see the factory engine hoist brackets still on the engine. :)
  2. You should put your State or Geographic area in your profile. It sounds like the strut, and/or the lower control arm. You need 2 jacks, or a jack and jack stands. Jack up the center front of the car high enough so that the bad wheel is also off the ground. Put jack stands under the center of the subframe. Take off the tire on the bad side. Using a jack, jack up the lower control arm. Be careful of the car lifting off the jack stands in the center! Slowly and/or a little quickly, lower the jack on the lower control arm. Listen and try to locate the noise. I may take a number of tries, But, you'll find it. Again, be careful of the car lifting off the jack stands in the center! The attached video will give you a better idea of what I'm taking about. Iirc, that was from a broken spring. That happens a lot in snow States. The bottom of the spring rusts to the bottom plate, then there is a single flexing point. That stress eventually breaks the spring. Since the spring is often rusted to the bottom plate, that means replacing the lower Control-arm(in the video), or the strut for other cars. For the back, the rear spring may rust to the trailing arm, or the rear axle assembly. Good Luck! DSCN1681.MOV
  3. Don't "wrap" a chain "around" anything. Find bolts that are at least 1/2"(10mm), and connect a chain to those bolts. You may need longer bolts. That's what Home Depot is for. You want to connect to the block or the tranny. If the engine has support braces, those are good places to connect to. Note: Do not connect a chain to the intake or the timing cover. The stress and chain could crack/damage either of those. I've attached pictures from when I did the head gasket, and the crank and rod bearings, on my '94 Achieva DOHC Quad4. You can see that I used muffler clamps over the bolts, to make things easy. The engine had ~190K miles on it at that point. So, I decided to replace the crank and rod bearings at the same time. The bearing replacement, and having to drop the oil pan, is the reason I needed to use the engine support bar. Note: For just a head gasket change on a Quad4, an engine support bar is not needed. If I was dropping the sub-frame, then I would have used a chain. Make sure that the engine brace can not tilt or fall. The top picture shows how I used a scissor jack to re-position the engine, when I was reinstalling an engine mount. The bottom picture shows how the engine support brace fit over a bolt on the strut tower. That kept the brace from moving. Good Luck!
  4. I hope that your mom gets better soon. Record and post the video when you have the time. No rush.
  5. First, as you said, the OP's car is an A-body, not an N-Body. My two Achievas are N-body cars. Fwiw, there aren't any really active forums for N-Bodys. Since the car is an Olds, a "possible" forum is at: https://oldsmobileforums.com/forums/index.php Note, as much as *I* am a die-hard Old's fan (I currently have three :)), I don't check out those forums anymore. Imho, just about every new post was "how do I fix the car, but not spend any money at all". Imho, in other words, they were really saying "I'll send this car to the crusher the second that I have to spend any real money on it". Imho, spend money and do maintenance, or get another car and hope that it lasts. Fwiw, I agree, I think that the OP should be welcome here. This one of the few active forums for older GM cars. There aren't a ton of posts. But, imho, that's a good thing. :) Also, I agree that we need a video with sound. It might be something simple. Or, it might not be.
  6. Cutlass350

    Why not Quad 4

    For that year/model, it got 180HP for a 5-speed, and 160HP for an automatic. From: https://consumerguide.com/used/1990-97-oldsmobile-cutlass-supreme/ ======= In 1990, both the base Cutlass and the sporty International Series came with the new 180-horsepower, 2.3-liter High Output version of the Quad 4 engine mated to a 5-speed manual transmission. For those preferring an automatic, the standard 3-speed gearbox required dropping to the meeker 160-horsepower Quad 4. The High Output version delivered 160 pound-feet of torque at 5200 rpm while the basic Quad 4 did nearly as well, with 155 pound-feet of torque at 5200 rpm. In 1990, the V6 provided to be the weakest engine offered, producing only 135 horsepower at 4400 rpm and 180 pound-feet of torque at 3600. ======== About the Quad4, also see: https://jalopnik.com/heres-why-the-quad-4-was-one-of-gms-most-important-engi-1829719965 From: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quad_4_engine ======= From 1989 to 2009, the Quad 4 held the title of being General Motors' most powerful naturally aspirated regular production four-cylinder engine (with the exception of the 2.92L I4 Atlas engines used in 2007-2012 Chevrolet Colorados and GMC Canyons). Only recently was the LG0's 180 bhp (134 kW) rating eclipsed when the 2010 model year 2.4 L (2,392.3 cc) Ecotec LAF was launched in the Buick Lacrosse and Chevrolet Equinox. The LAF has a rated output of 182 hp (136 kW) but does so with an 11.4:1 compression ratio, gasoline direct injection and variable valve timing. =======
  7. Please, never do that. That's fine for a car built in the 60's, but not anything built past 1970. Doing that can damage the electronic spark module and/or coil. Many times, the damage will be "latent", and will work fine right afterwards. However, after time and heat cycles, the latent damage becomes greater and greater, until the module or coil fails. An inline spark tester is under $10. https://www.google.com/search?q=inline+spark+tester Many inductive spark testers are also cheap. So, there's no reason at all to have the spark plug wire/terminal discharge directly to ground. Fwiw, I agree that the problem sounds exactly like a bad fuel pressure regulator. Those are known to fail on GM vehicles. They are often cheap and easy to replace. So, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it anyways. Get a GM, Delco, or "Standard Products" brand. Good Luck!
  8. http://car-part.com/
  9. Exactly! :) Replace the drier, add AC oil, vacuum, charge. You should use a proper AC Diagnostic Manifold Freon Gauge/Hose Set. They are ~~$30. Harbor Freight also often has them on sale. https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTech-Diagnostic-Manifold-Refrigerants-Couplers/dp/B01MZ6OQPE/ OrionMotorTech 3FT AC Diagnostic Manifold Freon Gauge Set for R134A R12, R22, R502 Refrigerants, with Couplers and Acme Adapter 4.0 out of 5 stars 122 customer reviews Price: $27.99 Good Luck!
  10. You could also cut out the rusted portion, and use an 1" heater hose and clamps to join the sections. I'd recommend covering/protecting the heater hose, if you put a bracket on the hose, to attach it to the car. You could always use another section of heater hose, cut it in half, and use that to protect the main heater hose. You could also use 1" copper tube, hot water rated, and join the ends with a heater hose sections and clamps. I had to do something similar for my power steering cooler pipe, since it's no longer offered. Good Luck!
  11. Fwiw, there's no such thing as an Oldsmobile vehicle. That's a BS myth - just like the $2 bill! Congrats on getting the car back on the road!
  12. Fwiw, iirc, I had "okay/decent" access to the knock sensor when the half-shaft was out. I replaced the engine in my Olds in 2011. So, after the new engine was in, I had to hook the wiring back up to the sensors, and secure the wires. Yes, removing the half-shaft is "kinda" extreme to get to the knock sensor. However, if you have all of the right tools, it doesn't take a really long time to remove the front caliper, bracket, rotor, hub center nut, three bolts holding the hub to the spindle, them slide-hammer the half-shaft out. Maybe a 1-2 hours, depending on how familiar all of that stuff is (and having the correct tools!). Note, iirc, the center-nut for the hub takes somewhere around 180ft/lbs to put on. That also requires an appropriate torque wrench to put it back on. Fwiw, if someone hasn't properly removed a half-shaft before (with a slide-hammer and proper "fork"), they might want to reconsider. I've read about people cracking the tranny case, from prying against the case to pull the half-shaft out. I removed a half-shaft by prying against the tranny case once on my '92 Olds Achieva. One side came right out. When I went to do the other side, I was putting a reasonable amount of force against the tranny case, when my smarter inner self finally said "Stop This Foolishness!". Different trannys, different half-shafts, different tolerances all mean that half-shafts may come right out for some people, while for other people, prying against the tranny case would end in a bad way. Good Luck!
  13. Fwiw, it's going to suck getting to the knock sensor. Remove the tire, remove the shield, and swear a lot! Imho, the last part is the most important. Also, you will need a special socket. Can it be removed without a special socket? Yes. You can also drain an Olympic-sized swimming pool using just a teaspoon. I've attached a picture of where it is on my LX5 engine. It's in a similar place on your engine. GM likes to try to keep sensors in the relative similar locations. Also, the picture below shows what the sensor looks like: Good Luck!
  14. It seems like you're confusing "rare" with "desirable/special". :) The DOHC Achievas are rare in themselves. Very few were sold. Mine is a '94 Achieva DOHC with a 5-speed. Very few 5-speed Achieva were ever sold. People can disagree that it's a nice/great/desirable/good car. But, since it has a 5-speed and DOHC, it is a rare car. Since very few DOHC Achievas were sold, the aftermarket either never made, and/or made many, of the special dual exhaust pipes. Yes, dual exhaust for the inline 4-clyinder DOHC Quad4 engine. Btw, with a different intake(the old tubular), the old late 80's DOHC cams (more HP, less mpg), and a bigger downpipe, those DOHC Quad4s put out ~200+ HP. In a light car like the Achieva, especially with a 5-speed, it makes for a fun "pocket rocket" car. However, being a New England car, and also an all-year car, both my rusty '94 Achieva (and my rusty '92 Achieva) are likely seeing their last months. Plus, neither gets used much anymore.
  15. It depends on where he lives and what's available. Many dealerships will tell people with older cars "go pound sand". Especially for problems that the original poster had. Imho, good luck finding any dealership in Mass or Conn that would work on that car. Electrical troubleshooting can get super expensive very quickly. And, the chance of the owner being PO'd and Very upset over bill (regardless of the final price) is 100%. Dealerships here will tell the person to take it to an electrical troubleshooting place. And, most of those places would have zero experience with a W-Body. So, often, for older cars that need special/different work/repairs, it can be a big hassle or impossible. That's very true for older cars that aren't classics or super popular (Camry, Accord, etc). Yea, places here will replace the brakes, do the half-shafts, replace engines/trannys, etc. But, when I thought that I'd need to have my tank dropped to replace the fuel pump, because of the rust (from the snow here in New England), the independent rear suspension, the ability/issues in get potential replacement parts for the independent rear suspension, places told me "I was much better off living with a fuel gauge - or be prepared over a thousand in repair cost, and the possibility of the car not being repairable" (but, I'd still be responsible for the accumulated repair costs). Back many years ago, my '94 Achieva with the rare DOHC, 5-speed, and dual exhaust (ha ha) option need an exhaust. That section also included the cat. No OEM, or replacement part was available. So, every place told me "You're SOL"! Because of the smog laws, they wouldn't even custom build an a exhaust to the exact OEM spec. Yea, I don't understand that BS either. Argg! But, the Dealerships, every major exhaust place, every local shop I went to, and even the "custom" shops I went to told me the same exact thing. So, getting different things fixed can vary a lot, depending on where people live. Fwiw, I made an appointment with a local shop in Northern NH (no smog laws in that section of NH) that a friend knew, I took a long trip up there, had a "custom-made" replacement exhaust system put in, and drove back. The car never had problems with emissions testing. So, having an older car, that was not popular, can make it a massive PITA to get even simple things done.
  16. It could be a sticking parking brake assembly inside the rear rotors. However, it's more likely a rusty cable. Iirc, there are 3 cables 1) Front to back-Y connection 2) Right Rear 3) Left Rear Also, check out (Some are similar to your car, but not your car) http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280218064 http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/pontiac,2002,grand+prix,3.1l+v6,1382510,brake/wheel+hub,parking+brake+cable,1696 Good Luck!
  17. You must excuse Schurkey. He just moved here from Transylvania and doesn't have any knowledge at all of the American language. https://www.google.com/search?q=car+rims&tbm=isch Or, as Dr Carson, Republican running for the Presidential nomination, would say "it's the fruit salad of their life". No, no one has a clue what he means by that phrase. http://www.cnn.com/2016/02/25/politics/ben-carson-fruit-salad-supreme-court/
  18. I bought 4 "Timken" bearing on ebay from 2 different sellers that both had very good ratings and a lot of sales. One bearing went in 2 months. Another went in 5 months. One of the other bearings had noise, but still seemed "kinda okay". Now, I buy OEM from Amazon or from directly from a GM dealer. Imho, for something like bearings, *I* only trust parts directly from a GM dealer. I got *****ed once. I learn quickly. And, DUH, yea those sellers are going to have GREAT ratings. The PURE CR*P they sell lasts long enopugh for the buyer to rate the seller. FYI: http://www.autoserviceworld.com/carsmagazine/counterfeit-bearings-seized-at-toronto-airport/ COUNTERFEIT BEARINGS SEIZED AT TORONTO AIRPORT Fake auto, industrial parts increasingly a worldwide concern, and yes they are also found in Canada On Friday, July 13, The Timken Company received an ominous phone call from the Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) asking about counterfeit bearings. Canadian customs had intercepted a full pallet, about 500, of what seemed to be the company’s bearings at Toronto’s Pearson International Airport in a shipment coming in from China. “They sent some photographs of the cartons and the external packaging, and asked if we could determine whether they were counterfeit. Unfortunately to the trained eye—or the reasonably trained eye—the differences can be hard to spot, but the actual cartons looked wrong enough to raise suspicion,†says Evan Boere, business development manager at Timken in Mississauga, Ont. All Timken products are packaged in black and orange cartons manufactured to a specific corporate standard that use holograms for counterfeit protection. Boere notes this packaging was lacking a hologram and the barcoding was wrong. “Those were the first indications,†he says. Timken’s experience is not an isolated incident. The World Bearing Association has embarked on a mission to educate customs officials around the world about ways to spot counterfeit bearings. In fact, the organization was formed specifically to tackle the problem of fake bearings and has launched the Stop Fake Bearings—http://www.stopfakebearings.com—campaign. These counterfeits don’t just impact the company’s bottom-line, the shoddy performance of these fakes can cost people their lives. Counterfeit bearings have found their way into automobiles and commercial airplanes After the shipment was flagged, the RCMP contacted Timken right away since products with health and safety concerns, like bearings, are given top priority. “Constable Gill asked if we could do some analysis—there were enough telltale signs—so we sent to the bearings to our manufacturing plant in St. Thomas, Ont., that has a lab,†Boere says. The bearing conformed to Timken standards in terms of dimensions and surface hardness and weight, but had severe scoring on the raceway due to poor workmanship. Timken proceeded to analyze the material at its metallurgical lab located at its Canton, Ohio headquarters, and discovered the metallurgy and heat treatment were incorrect. Made in China Tracking down the perpetrator, however, is challenging. “That gets a little difficult,†he says. “It’s very difficult to determine the manufacturing source but they came in from China.†“We have to do it ourselves,†explains Daniel J. Szoch, program manager at Timken in Canton. Szoch heads up the company’s global anti-counterfeiting operations. The authorities in China usually don’t take the lead in these investigations, he explains. The onus is on the manufacturer to track down the guilty party and point the authorities in the right direction. It can be costly and time consuming. This was the second time in the past year Timken had been notified of counterfeit bearings entering Canada. The previous fakes were also Chinese-made. “We received a phone call from one of our distributors saying they had unknowingly purchased a bearing from a source they thought was trustworthy,†Boere says. The source, a surplus house, shared the name of its supplier in China. “We tried tracking them down but we weren’t successful,†Boere says. In this last case, there were only six bearings and all were destroyed, he notes. “The products were marked as made in the USA but they came from China at a really fantastic lead price. It’s interesting with surplus houses because they deal with stuff that comes from all over the world, so I think they tend to turn a blind eye as to whether the product could be counterfeit if the packaging looks close,†Boere says. Identi-FAKE-ation Border officials are the first line of defense against counterfeits and manufacturers have educated and continue to educate customs officials around the world on how to spot fakes. Timken’s Boere says he has conducted education sessions for Canadian customs officers and it looks like the efforts have paid off. Scott Lynch, executive director of the American Bearing Manufacturers Association (ABMA), says raising awareness is the first step to keeping fake bearings off the market. Yet, officials don’t have time to thoroughly check every shipment and even then, fakes would still slip through the cracks. Lynch says Chinese officials have seized 2.2 million bearings, and a raid in Long Beach, Calif., in 2011 unearthed 750,000 fakes mimicking four different brands. Szoch says they also work with customs officials around the world to heighten awareness about fake bearings, and to try to calculate the amount of counterfeit bearings passing through various countries. “They’ve been more than forthcoming in sharing that kind of information,†he notes. Counterfeit bearings are unlikely to show up in the OEM supply chain because they purchase directly from the company, Szoch explains. “This phenomenon has more of an impact on our aftermarket industrial distribution business,†he notes. Szoch says it’s the top-selling products that get copied. Counterfeit bearings are increasingly a problem worldwide but the prevalence in the Canadian market is unknown. All buyers can do is make sure they purchase from authorized distributors and to notify the manufacturer directly if they suspect a product is counterfeit. “Given the nature of these activities, it is virtually impossible to quantify the magnitude of the problem, particularly vis-à -vis a particular manufacturer in a particular market,†says Ingalill Östman, senior vice-president, group communications and government relations at the SKF Group. “Thankfully we have no reason to believe that this is a substantial or widespread issue in Canada,†she notes. “That being said, SKF Canada views even the rare instances of counterfeit products that have arisen in this country as serious. Östman says SKF has worked with authorities in the limited number of circumstances when it has been necessary and would welcome further opportunities to work with border authorities. “We understand there are customs measures that exist in other countries that are reasonably effective in detecting counterfeit shipments,†she explains. “SKF believes that Canadian law could be strengthened to better protect the borders and market against counterfeit products.†A June 2012 report from the Canadian Intellectual Property Council, Counterfeiting in the Canadian Market: How do we stop it? , says Canadian border enforcement needs to be strengthened and an intellectual property (IP) crime task force created. As well, the report states customs officials need to be granted ex officio powers to intervene in the importation, exportation, shipment of counterfeit goods. As it stands now, customs officials can’t take action; that’s left up to the RCMP. The Office of the United States Trade Representative (USTR) in its 2012 301 Report released in April agrees. It says Canada needs to increase powers for border officials and has placed the country on a priority watch list due to a poor track record of protecting intellectual property rights. Buyer Beware Health and safety concerns are the top reasons to be concerned about any counterfeit part, including bearings. In October, for example, the U.S. Department of Transportation’s National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), issued a warning about counterfeit airbags circulating in the U.S. market that had either failed to deploy or unleashed shrapnel on the passengers and drivers in the vehicles. RCMP says buyers need to consider the four P’s when making purchases. People can be easily fooled, even purchasers at your aftermarket supplier, Packaging: Examine the packaging for quality, spelling errors, incorrect fonts, lack of the supplier’s standard security measures, like Timken’s holograms, and incorrect barcodes. Price: If the price is too good to be true, it probably is. However, some counterfeiters do have the audacity to sell their shoddy knock-offs at full-price. Product: Examine the product for signs of shoddy manufacturing. Place: Be wary when purchasing online; ensure the dealer is reputable. Most counterfeit auto parts come from China (redistributed once they make it to Dubai) but Taiwan, India, Pakistan and Malaysia are also known to ship fake auto parts, the Motor & Equipment Manufacturers Association says in its 2008 report, Intellectual Property: Protecting Valuable Assets in a Global Market. In 1997, the U.S. estimated the worldwide counterfeit auto parts market at US$12 billion, with the U.S. market accounting for 25 per cent. In 2008, market research firm Frost & Sullivan estimated the market would reach US$45 million by 2011. Just like in the U.S., Canadian auto parts imports from China are increasing. According to Statistics Canada, $662 million of imports of motor vehicle parts and accessories under the headings 87.01 to 87.05 from China entered the Canadian market between January and August of 2012. Total imports for those categories reached $910 million in 2011, up from $806 million in 2010 and $632 million in 2009. In 2010, U.S. imports were up to US$90.9 billion, an increase of 44.3 per cent from 2009, according to the 2011 Industry Annual Assessment from the U.S. Department of Commerce’s Office of Transportation and Machinery. The most counterfeited parts are those that most often need replacing, like brakes, brake linings, rotors, seals, air filters, oil filters and windshields, to name a few. With the impact these parts have on safety, the old expression “buyer beware†now sounds more like salient advice rather than a cliché when purchasing with aftermarket automotive parts.
  19. Also, ignition modules (for just about all EFI cars) are notorious for doing what you're describing. If you wanted "to throw parts at it", I'd try that first. You can get a good OBD-II scanner with data logging for ~$100->$200 dollars. Heck, even my old scan-mate (it was $500+ when I got it) has good data logging. But, it does have a rather limited data capture amount.
  20. If there aren't any codes, my best advice is that you'll need to data log the problem. If you have an Android device, there's a good app "Torque" that works fine with an ~$20 dongle you buy at Amazon. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torquefree&hl=en I suggest getting the Pro version, since it's cheap and helps the developer to be able to spend more time and effort with the app. Otherwise, the crank position sensor (CPS) is a known flaky problem across many GM lines. It's over a PITA to replace, since it's often behind/near the starter. And, you should get only a Delco CPS. The other brands are even worse. So, that's $30-$60 for the part and 1-2 hours for the R&R. Some Torque App screen captures from my car: Good Luck!
  21. Btw, snap-on makes some nice 3/8" ratchets with looong handles. Not cheap. But, you may find a used on on ebay for a non super high price. I got two different ones (used). Imho, I find them better than using a pipe. It's more compact, and there isn't a pipe that moves/wiggles around while you're doing some ratcheting. The ones that I got: Snap-On Ratchet Sealed Head Dual 80 Extra Long Handle 3/8" Drive 17 1/2" FLL80 (~~$80 used in good shape) Snap On 3/8" Drive Long Handle Sealed Ratchet FL830 (~10" ; ~~$55 used in good shape) Couldn't find a good static image to link, so here's an ebay link to a search: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?&_nkw=fl830+snap+on Yea, getting old sucks. That's why I now buy $$ tools. So, that I can do stuff, with more ease. Btw, cordless butane-powered framing nailer guns - ROCK!! Use a hammer to drive in a 3" nail? Ha, ha, ha! I can put over a 100 3" nails, with glue and barbs on the end, and not work up a sweat. Yawn, you want me to put in 100 more nails, yawn, wait until I finish my non-alcoholic (never use power tools and drink!) margarita. Yawn. Paslode Cordless Framing Nailer CF325Li (Uncompensated Review and Demo) Good Luck!
  22. Don't waste your money. I've bought a number of impact wrenches over the years. I have a "few" electric and battery ones. Fwiw, I love DeWalt products, except for their under-powered impact wrenches (all of them - electric and battery). If you're going to use a non air-powered impact wrench, I've found only two that I've owned to be worth anything. An older "Harbor Freight" $50 electric that I got when I when I was in college (yea, WTF!?! Maybe I got a fluke?), and a Milwaukee electric. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000647GA Milwaukee 9072-20 1/2-Inch Impact Wrench Price: ~$200 Btw, my local Home Depot, and Sears often have the Milwaukee Impact Wrench in stock. Check yours.
  23. Note to the OP, that was in lb/in, not ft/lbs. That equals approx 7.5 ft/lbs. Don't even try to use a 1/2" ft/lb torque wrench on values below ~25 ft/lbs. Fwiw, Sears often has a sale on their torque wrenches now. Or, pay $80+ for a lb/in (& low f/lb) torque wrench at other times.
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