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About Cutlass350

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    New England! :-)


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    New England! :-) MA/CT

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  1. Fwiw, imho, GM/AC-Delco electronics used to make every other vehicle manufacturer look like bumbling kindergarteners. Note, that I said "used to". Yes, the CS130 alternator ended up being like so many other cost-minimized GM parts. Imho, it's likely the voltage regulator. Iirc, the CS130 went through "a few" iterations of voltage regulators. My guess is that the regulators suffered from heat, poor design, and "wear" (electromigration). My factory CS130 was one of the alternators that had "voltage surges/drops" "when it felt like it", at high rpms on the highway. I would notice it in the lights. That was with no AC, heat off, AC/heat on econ mode, no windshield wipers, stock radio at easy listening volume, etc. When I did my "restoration" many years ago, I bought a new alternator directly from a GM dealer, and offered up old alternators to the Automotive Deity above , and hoped to get a newer alternator with the latest voltage regulator. Thankfully, my offering to the Automotive Deity above seemed to work , and my new alternator has had a rock steady output, for now over 100K miles.
  2. Post a youtube video with then hood up.
  3. Iirc, the Quad4 and the LX5 (3.5L V6) also have one or more lifting points. When I did the Quad4 head gasket and bearings, I had to remove the head. So, the lifting points also had to come off. :-P Btw, some times, the lifting brackets(if separate) may have been removed and not put back on. I did that on my Mustang, since the bracket was a PITA, and often in the way. For many older V8 Mustangs, it's rare to see the factory engine hoist brackets still on the engine. :)
  4. You should put your State or Geographic area in your profile. It sounds like the strut, and/or the lower control arm. You need 2 jacks, or a jack and jack stands. Jack up the center front of the car high enough so that the bad wheel is also off the ground. Put jack stands under the center of the subframe. Take off the tire on the bad side. Using a jack, jack up the lower control arm. Be careful of the car lifting off the jack stands in the center! Slowly and/or a little quickly, lower the jack on the lower control arm. Listen and try to locate the noise. I may take a number of tries, But, you'll find it. Again, be careful of the car lifting off the jack stands in the center! The attached video will give you a better idea of what I'm taking about. Iirc, that was from a broken spring. That happens a lot in snow States. The bottom of the spring rusts to the bottom plate, then there is a single flexing point. That stress eventually breaks the spring. Since the spring is often rusted to the bottom plate, that means replacing the lower Control-arm(in the video), or the strut for other cars. For the back, the rear spring may rust to the trailing arm, or the rear axle assembly. Good Luck! DSCN1681.MOV
  5. Don't "wrap" a chain "around" anything. Find bolts that are at least 1/2"(10mm), and connect a chain to those bolts. You may need longer bolts. That's what Home Depot is for. You want to connect to the block or the tranny. If the engine has support braces, those are good places to connect to. Note: Do not connect a chain to the intake or the timing cover. The stress and chain could crack/damage either of those. I've attached pictures from when I did the head gasket, and the crank and rod bearings, on my '94 Achieva DOHC Quad4. You can see that I used muffler clamps over the bolts, to make things easy. The engine had ~190K miles on it at that point. So, I decided to replace the crank and rod bearings at the same time. The bearing replacement, and having to drop the oil pan, is the reason I needed to use the engine support bar. Note: For just a head gasket change on a Quad4, an engine support bar is not needed. If I was dropping the sub-frame, then I would have used a chain. Make sure that the engine brace can not tilt or fall. The top picture shows how I used a scissor jack to re-position the engine, when I was reinstalling an engine mount. The bottom picture shows how the engine support brace fit over a bolt on the strut tower. That kept the brace from moving. Good Luck!
  6. I hope that your mom gets better soon. Record and post the video when you have the time. No rush.
  7. First, as you said, the OP's car is an A-body, not an N-Body. My two Achievas are N-body cars. Fwiw, there aren't any really active forums for N-Bodys. Since the car is an Olds, a "possible" forum is at: Note, as much as *I* am a die-hard Old's fan (I currently have three :)), I don't check out those forums anymore. Imho, just about every new post was "how do I fix the car, but not spend any money at all". Imho, in other words, they were really saying "I'll send this car to the crusher the second that I have to spend any real money on it". Imho, spend money and do maintenance, or get another car and hope that it lasts. Fwiw, I agree, I think that the OP should be welcome here. This one of the few active forums for older GM cars. There aren't a ton of posts. But, imho, that's a good thing. :) Also, I agree that we need a video with sound. It might be something simple. Or, it might not be.
  8. Cutlass350

    Why not Quad 4

    For that year/model, it got 180HP for a 5-speed, and 160HP for an automatic. From: ======= In 1990, both the base Cutlass and the sporty International Series came with the new 180-horsepower, 2.3-liter High Output version of the Quad 4 engine mated to a 5-speed manual transmission. For those preferring an automatic, the standard 3-speed gearbox required dropping to the meeker 160-horsepower Quad 4. The High Output version delivered 160 pound-feet of torque at 5200 rpm while the basic Quad 4 did nearly as well, with 155 pound-feet of torque at 5200 rpm. In 1990, the V6 provided to be the weakest engine offered, producing only 135 horsepower at 4400 rpm and 180 pound-feet of torque at 3600. ======== About the Quad4, also see: From: ======= From 1989 to 2009, the Quad 4 held the title of being General Motors' most powerful naturally aspirated regular production four-cylinder engine (with the exception of the 2.92L I4 Atlas engines used in 2007-2012 Chevrolet Colorados and GMC Canyons). Only recently was the LG0's 180 bhp (134 kW) rating eclipsed when the 2010 model year 2.4 L (2,392.3 cc) Ecotec LAF was launched in the Buick Lacrosse and Chevrolet Equinox. The LAF has a rated output of 182 hp (136 kW) but does so with an 11.4:1 compression ratio, gasoline direct injection and variable valve timing. =======
  9. Please, never do that. That's fine for a car built in the 60's, but not anything built past 1970. Doing that can damage the electronic spark module and/or coil. Many times, the damage will be "latent", and will work fine right afterwards. However, after time and heat cycles, the latent damage becomes greater and greater, until the module or coil fails. An inline spark tester is under $10. Many inductive spark testers are also cheap. So, there's no reason at all to have the spark plug wire/terminal discharge directly to ground. Fwiw, I agree that the problem sounds exactly like a bad fuel pressure regulator. Those are known to fail on GM vehicles. They are often cheap and easy to replace. So, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it anyways. Get a GM, Delco, or "Standard Products" brand. Good Luck!
  11. Exactly! :) Replace the drier, add AC oil, vacuum, charge. You should use a proper AC Diagnostic Manifold Freon Gauge/Hose Set. They are ~~$30. Harbor Freight also often has them on sale. OrionMotorTech 3FT AC Diagnostic Manifold Freon Gauge Set for R134A R12, R22, R502 Refrigerants, with Couplers and Acme Adapter 4.0 out of 5 stars 122 customer reviews Price: $27.99 Good Luck!
  12. You could also cut out the rusted portion, and use an 1" heater hose and clamps to join the sections. I'd recommend covering/protecting the heater hose, if you put a bracket on the hose, to attach it to the car. You could always use another section of heater hose, cut it in half, and use that to protect the main heater hose. You could also use 1" copper tube, hot water rated, and join the ends with a heater hose sections and clamps. I had to do something similar for my power steering cooler pipe, since it's no longer offered. Good Luck!
  13. Fwiw, there's no such thing as an Oldsmobile vehicle. That's a BS myth - just like the $2 bill! Congrats on getting the car back on the road!
  14. Fwiw, iirc, I had "okay/decent" access to the knock sensor when the half-shaft was out. I replaced the engine in my Olds in 2011. So, after the new engine was in, I had to hook the wiring back up to the sensors, and secure the wires. Yes, removing the half-shaft is "kinda" extreme to get to the knock sensor. However, if you have all of the right tools, it doesn't take a really long time to remove the front caliper, bracket, rotor, hub center nut, three bolts holding the hub to the spindle, them slide-hammer the half-shaft out. Maybe a 1-2 hours, depending on how familiar all of that stuff is (and having the correct tools!). Note, iirc, the center-nut for the hub takes somewhere around 180ft/lbs to put on. That also requires an appropriate torque wrench to put it back on. Fwiw, if someone hasn't properly removed a half-shaft before (with a slide-hammer and proper "fork"), they might want to reconsider. I've read about people cracking the tranny case, from prying against the case to pull the half-shaft out. I removed a half-shaft by prying against the tranny case once on my '92 Olds Achieva. One side came right out. When I went to do the other side, I was putting a reasonable amount of force against the tranny case, when my smarter inner self finally said "Stop This Foolishness!". Different trannys, different half-shafts, different tolerances all mean that half-shafts may come right out for some people, while for other people, prying against the tranny case would end in a bad way. Good Luck!
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