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Everything posted by carkhz316

  1. Shurkey is tolerable and self-aware, so I don't mind, haha. The guy to give him chase is over on the SS forums, username "CB750". Thirded for the Transgo kits, though they have some turds here and there. For example, their Stage 2/3 kits for the 4L80 used a multi-layer separator plate, which frankly sucks. It's prone to cross leaks and is a bandaid.
  2. Dang. Too late to the party again. Glad you got it figured out though. I was certain it sounded like a typical Passlock issue, and not something else. The PCM doesn't care about the oil pressure, so that wasn't going to be it.
  3. carkhz316

    Z34 swag

    Whenever I get my basement and/or my garage finished, I'm going to hopefully stocking it with more car memorabilia like this.
  4. I drove it in and out of the garage once this year. And now it's back in storage for the winter. Sad, I know, haha.
  5. Back from the dead, haha. Glad to see this thing still going!
  6. I'm sure there's fellers on here that can be even more specific, but based on the two I've witnessed, the issue is that the oil pressure relief solenoid that purges oil pressure from the lifters sprays the oil at the bottom of one or more cylinders which gets pulled up into the combustion chamber and either burns it or cokes up the rings or cylinder walls. The fix from GM was a updated oil pan gasket with a splash shield of sorts to deflect the oil pressure spray, but from what I've read, it still doesn't stop the issue.
  7. That's good to know. I have a spare 284 mount for a rainy day, but glad that more parts can be interchanged.
  8. I'm not disagreeing with you, but back in the day I put new a Dayco on our G8 when we had it, and it still chirped. I know the problem was the harmonic balancer had a bit of run-out, but I didn't want to replace it yet. However, when I then switched to the Gatorback it pretty much eliminated the chirping.
  9. This is almost exclusively the reason for chirps and squeaks, barring a bearing issue. That said, I've cheated and had good results with the Gatorback (now produced by Continental) since the serration of the grooves seems to allow it to bend a little bit more to mitigate noise.
  10. Yes, for sure get that DOD turned off. I don't care what anyone says, the only way to eliminate the oil consumption is to do away with the DOD function. The oil pan gasket doesn't fix it. The different size wheels thing is kind of odd to me, in that the GP was the only LS4 car to do it like that. Why? The Chevy twins and the Buick ran a symmetrical setup. Also, not sure if it's still a thing, but supposedly there is/ was a special procedure or tool for changing serpentine belts, when in reality all you need to do is tighten an appropriately size hose clamp around the tensioner assembly to R&R the belt.
  11. Eh, while those spot weld cutters work for most, I became partial to using a fine cutoff wheel to grind the spot weld down on the part being replaced. After awhile of doing it like this at the body shop, I could do it faster than using the spot weld bit. And when you're done, you don't end up with the divot or hole from the center portion like you would with the drill bit. It's hard to explain the process, but it works well.
  12. So would any of this brake upgrading be applicable/ possible for a 98 Z34, I.E. a 1.5 gen?
  13. Welcome from your country neighbor over the border in MN. Whereabouts in ND are you? I'm up in Fargo occasionally to visit friends.
  14. Ya I know about the 284 already as I have one in my Monte Carlo. I should have clarified my question to ask if anyone still left here on has done it. I know it's possible, as a few have done it, but nobody has ever outlined the process and parts. I know that the arm and pivot are substituted with a hydraulic throwout bearing, and the standard 284 slave is eliminated entirely.
  15. Has anyone done it? I know a former/ older member on here did (TurboJeff/ Kuntie) but never did find out what was all entailed.
  16. Can you explain how the conversion is done to convert from a pull type to push type? I tried asking Kuntzie/ Turbojeff years ago, but he kinda ducked the question and said that it's expensive and difficult. I just don't want to have to rely on obscenely expensive and potentially obsolete clutches and bearings from Spec, whereas the push type clutches appear to be much cheaper and easier to come by. I am concerned because if I ever get around to doing my LS4 swap, my Spec stage 2 isn't going to cut it. I know they make through stage 5, but $$$$$$ and not street friendly.
  17. carkhz316

    5 speed swap

    91-94 for sure, 95-99 Monte and Lumina should work as well for your subframes.
  18. I'm surprised that, adjusted for inflation, that car cost (in todays dollars) $34,788.91!!
  19. carkhz316

    5 speed swap

    Eh, a junkyard in Tennessee shipped me a 284 for like $50 via UPS. It was stuffed into a rubbermaid tote with about a dozen rolls worth of packing tape holding it together, but it made it in one piece. It works as its the current (and second) 284 in my Z34. Jeslus, got enough 284's? hahaha!. Where are you at? I might have to take some parts off your hands some day, lol. I, too, would like to take one apart. I have my "original" 284 sitting in the corner of the garage for the day I'm ambitious enough to split it and try to replace the noisy bearing(s) and weak 3 or 4th synchro. A former member on here, TurboJeff (I think that was his name) proved numerous times the 284 could handle 500hp and beyond. TurboJeff I think his name was, at least that's the guy I'm thinking of from here. Wish I would have know that before. I struggled with mine until I ended up unbolting the pressure plate to split it.
  20. I don't know why I said ambient air. I really just meant compressed air, which does present a hazard.
  21. Excellent build and post wstefan20! A word of advice/ caution to anyone using these: if using to find leaks in the EVAP system, be extremely careful or avoid using compressed/ ambient air to check, as inducing air (oxygen) into the evap system has the potential for creating a bomb. Optimally, one should use an inert gas (CO2 or Nitrogen) if possible.
  22. coughcough, the special VIN plate rivets can be had off of Ebay. Rosette rivets or something of that nature. If you're keeping the car, just swap the whole body and the VIN plate.
  23. Embarrassingly, I'm not familiar with dropbox. Email or quick tip on how best to post or send?
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