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55trucker last won the day on January 17

55trucker had the most liked content!

About 55trucker

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 07/19/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Oshawa, Ontario


  • Biography
    A long time a land far away.........
  • Location
    Oshawa, Ontario
  • Interests
    hobbies, hobbies and more hobbies, and ready to retire
  • Occupation
    too old to have a job but still need one

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  1. 55trucker

    5 speed swap

    That would be a *possible* resort, issue with the method is after the bolt head has been snipped off & you finally have the front cover removed to get at the timing chain one still has to free the remaining stud from inside the front of the shaft. I'm thinking that the threads are damaged & that's the reason why the bolt will not turn out.
  2. 55trucker

    5 speed swap

    Mike, that bolt is torqued up to just short of 100 ft.lbs, it is right a right hand thread, there isn't supposed to be any thread locker on the bolt, but we don't know the history of the engine, at this point I'm thinking that a moderate amount of heat (propane torch) delicately applied to the cog surrounding the bolt might ease the frozen state. One needs to keep the heat directly off the bolt, warming up the surrounding area. The cog is pulled using the same puller that is used to remove the cam cogs from the front of the cams, it is an interference fit. Have you damaged the hex head on the bolt? (rounded it off)......I might try to wrap the belt around the pulley & tie the belt off with a pair of vice grips to tightly hold them there, grasp the grips firmly & start with an air gun, turn the gun down from full torque & just use the hammer action to try & free up the bolt..........and use a 6 point socket, no 12 point .
  3. 55trucker

    Recommended water pump?

    just my personal opinion, stay away from the the light duty Asian offshore items, try to get your hands on a replacement HD pump that is the same as what GM installed into the engines. It will have a cast iron tapered impeller.
  4. 55trucker

    Welding coolant pipes.

    I take that you'll get into this in the spring?, If you have any problems attempting this give me a call, I'll lend a hand
  5. 55trucker

    Welding coolant pipes.

    One will not find that part listed for the LQ1 engine, as it is intended for the LH0 (T) engine only. The difference in the pipe is the length of the rubber end & the vertical pipe at the coolant manifold. The LQ1 item places the vertical pipe in a slightly different location than the LH0 pipe to accommodate where the LQ1 coolant manifold on the very front of the engine front cover is. The manifold nipple is parallel with the centreline of the engine, the LH0 nipple is clocked at approx 30 degrees. The rubber hose for the LQ1 is much shorter than the LH0, but because the LH0 item does have a longer hose it *might* work, but there's no guarantee it will.
  6. 55trucker

    Welding coolant pipes.

    Yeah, ok, now you're splitting hairs.....agreed, the true Mapp was as you state discontinued, but one still can purchase the propylene/propane gas known as Map-Pro. I get mine from Bernzomatic.
  7. 55trucker

    OBD 1.5 confusion

    in as much as the engine long block itself is concerned, out goes the OBD1.5, in goes the OBDII, no physical change in the engine, '99 was the last year for the L82, 2000 was the year that GM dumped the small port runner design used for the L82 & went to the larger runners for the LA1(3400) for the L82 replacement..... the LG8.
  8. 55trucker

    Welding coolant pipes.

    One would not attempt to *mig* the piping but either brazing or *hard* soldering (silver) will do the job. Silver soldering does not require the amount of heat to flow the solder that brazing rod requires. One still needs at the very least a Mapp gas set to do the job, propane will not get hot enough. I take it that the pipe you're referring to is the return pipe from the heater core back to the coolant pump manifold that runs along the frame rail, I had to do this very repair some time ago as well when one of the welded support tabs cracked at the weld and a seep began.
  9. 55trucker

    Rear Suspension Struts Change

    The 1st gen bolts are a pair coming in from both the front & rear of the spindle & not a thru bolt. Out of curiosity Imp what is the actual dia of the 2nd gen long portion of the arm? I'm doing this upgrade in the spring & as of yet haven't acquired the *new* arms. I was under the impression that the dia is 28mm (1.25") so I'll need a 28mmx1.5 die to rethread the end of the arms after cutting them down to the needed length.
  10. 55trucker

    Rear Suspension Struts Change

    ^don't see why you could not... the cross section of the 2nd gen bushing is only marginally wider than the 1st gen bushing, the 1st gen bolts are more than long enough to be used safely. Altho the 1st gen bar itself is rectangular the bushing is wider.
  11. 55trucker

    W-body Nationals June 2019

    As I live & breathe, Matt are still alive, thought perhaps you were swallowed by a new Toyota coming down the assembly line.........
  12. 55trucker

    Rear Suspension Struts Change

    The BMR's are nice but somewhat overkill for general use. What one does is to purchase 4 of the OEM 2nd gen adjustable lateral arms (those arms fit a host of cars), as stated the long arms have to be shortened approx 1.5", one has to re-thread that shortened arm by the same 1.5". Now one measures two of the new arms to match the center-to-center length of the solid forward arms under your 1st gen car and locks them into place & installs them in the same place. The new rear arms are adjusted to match the old *rear* arms length & those are used to set the rear toe on the car. Using 4 adjustable arms allows you the option of adjusting the rear track width to something other than stock *within reasonable limits* if you choose to.
  13. 55trucker

    Rear Suspension Struts Change

    ^you did notice the geographical location of the OP?
  14. 55trucker

    91 vs 95 LQ1 Comparison

    That device is supposed to be the MAP sensor. Your harness is partially blocking the view of it. If you go looking for that in the aftermarket you're probably going to find everything points to the *regular* MAP sensor which looks like this......... One of the vacuum lines that is attached to it is the feed to the modulator on the trans housing. The other should be the feed to the fuel pressure regulator. That third line (which looks to be capped off) goes to a vacuum port on the intake next to the PCV. If that device is leaking or it is blocked then those three functions could/may be upset. The intake tube is definitely not working.
  15. 55trucker

    Junk Yard Thread, Never ending

    It's a GT, it will have AQ9's. don't we have a member in Edmonton?