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crazyd

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crazyd last won the day on November 6 2016

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About crazyd

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    http://gallery.davidonovan.com/showroom/GTP

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  1. crazyd

    LED conversion

    '95s were OBD1.5.
  2. Just bought a GM-3 ABS adapter today for the MT2500. I wasn't thinking about it, but I had a watcher set up on eBay and a guy in Texas posted one for sale.
  3. Maybe selling the whole scanner and finding a Tech-1 is the better way to go. Any particular keywords that would help narrow down the search notification, Jesse? Is there a GM part number for a Tech-1? BTW I am pretty sure I have a wheel-speed sensor problem. I looked at the possible codes, and the way the indicator is acting, it's gotta be that. I can hear the module initializing properly, and the warning light doesn't come on until I get over 10mph. I think I know which one it is, too.
  4. crazyd

    LED conversion

    I've had my share of backfeed weirdness from changing them out. Right now I just discovered that my front marker lights are coming on when I hit the brakes, and the left turn signal stops flashing also when I hit the brakes. I did the ones in the cluster, and all the backlights were fine but when I did the warning lamps they were on at a low glow when the headlights and markers were on. Had to go back to incandescents for all the warning indicators but kept the CHECK GAGES, turn signals, low fuel warning and HI beams as LED. I'll still have to undo some more, because something in the brake circuit is backfeeding. I would check everything in the dark, preferably with a helper while you hit the brakes, before you put it all back together and call it good. I also found out the hard way that replacing the CHMSL bulbs will freak out the ABS computer.
  5. crazyd

    A/C compressor clutch stopped engaging

    Fixed! The clutch was engaging jumping power to pin 5. It was a blown fuse and a bad relay.
  6. crazyd

    A/C compressor clutch stopped engaging

    Steve: I'll try that over the weekend and see what happens. Imp558: Where would I find splice S120? I've had the car nearly 15 years, I think it's safe to say that anything that's wrong with it at this point is on me - but it has never had rodent issues, thankfully. It was a factor at my last house but not at the current house. Birds, and salty air from the beach are the only problems here. But a tinkering owner is its greatest threat right now, and I've been doing a LOT over on that side the past couple weeks trying to find the source of a noise that eventually turned out to be the power steering pump.
  7. crazyd

    A/C compressor clutch stopped engaging

    I don't think that's got anything to do with it. Looking at the schematic below, the pressure switch is part of a separate circuit (on the left side) from the 250 (right side) where my problem is. It would make sense if the pressure switch interrupted power to the 250 but it doesn't appear to be that way.
  8. Hi all, quick synopsis here: A/C Compressor stopped working suddenly about a week ago. Been working on other things (PS pump) but I don't think it was anything I did. Clutch is not engaging. Checked pressures, have 65psi on low side and holding. Checked connector at compressor. Reseated. Ran power test in the manual, removed compressor relay and tested brown wires (CKT 250) to ground. 0.02v instead of battery voltage with ignition on and MAX A/C. Manual says open CKT 250 or blown A/C fuse. I checked the brown wires underneath the RSEC and they proceed into the harness like normal, but I don't know where they go from there. I really don't want to tear apart the harness trying to trace it or figure out if there's a remote possibility the wire suddenly broke somewhere down the line. That will have a high probability of breaking something else. There is no fuse labeled A/C in the RSEC, but I tested all the others (including the big 30/60 amp ones) and they're all good. Suggestions? I was thinking I could just splice the input brown wire back into +12V from somewhere else in the RSEC. Since it's still fused through the RSEC this shouldn't cause a problem. Thoughts?
  9. Yeah it's strange that they'd require a separate adapter just for the ABS, since it's the same plug. Probably a salesman's decision rather than an engineer's. mfewtrail: Thanks for the alternatives, might just go that route instead.
  10. Does anyone here happen to have the GM-3 ABS adapter for the MT2500 scanner? I've got the cartridge for ABS, but it still wants the GM-3 adapter for ABS VI. Didn't have any luck searching for it on eBay or Google, and I've got a code set that I'd like to find out what it is.
  11. crazyd

    Led replacement 1994 cutlass convertible

    If you do the turn signals you'll definitely need to do the EP28 flasher upgrade. If you change the CHM brake lights it'll break the ABS. You don't need to change all the lights in the dash at the same time, in fact keeping a few incandescents around helps keep the resistance up. I wouldn't bother changing the notification/warning lights, only the backlights. If you change too many it'll start doing weird stuff - backfeeding circuits, etc. Proceed with caution.
  12. Yeah, looks like you'll have to ask him, I got this when I tried: addicted2boost cannot receive messages.
  13. Looking for the upper part of the interior door panel that goes from the door handle to the side-mirror in dark grey from a Grand Prix coupe, driver's side. Don't need the whole door.
  14. crazyd

    Sunroof glass & seal from 92-96

    That depends on which part of Canada you're in!
  15. crazyd

    Sunroof glass & seal from 92-96

    Yes a '96 Cutlass should be the same - different from all other GMs of the era that I've ever seen. Taking it out is just sliding the plastic track covers off, loosening 6 10mm nuts and lifting it out. NOTE: I need the glass and the seal now if you have both intact.
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