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rockfangd

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About rockfangd

  • Rank
    rockfangd
  • Birthday 03/18/1986

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    rockfangd

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oriskany NY
  • Interests
    Diesel Mechanic
    electrical
    old cars
    Vintage houses. Always willing to learn

Converted

  • Biography
    Maticulous auto nut. Absolute GM fan all the way. Go crazy over large luxury automobiles. I just cant get enough If I could own 20 cars I surely would
  • Location
    Utica NY
  • Interests
    Cars, and did I mention cars
  • Occupation
    Full time diesel mechanic, part time auto mechanic, part time bus driver
  1. I would not consider rubber. I used to but not for fuel injection. I figured as long as it was A W-body I could get it close to right. A year make and model would help though
  2. Welcome to the forum You have a few options. You could splice in a steel line splice in a koni line. Better Or a neoprene fuel line (best) If you do not want to replace the entire line you can cut the line and use compression fittings or flare fittings. They also sell steel to neoprene compression fittings. That is what I typically use. I prefer neoprene lines as they are nice and flexible. easy to route, and wont rot. Typically supply line is 3/8 return line is 5/16 but in some cases both supply and return are 5/16. vent is always 1/4
  3. Grr. Bringing back bad memories. I remember those stupid folding guides that would pop back open when you installed the window into the track. Especially Dormans. Hope your fix lasts
  4. I agree. Here in NY we have the same problem. See the plate on the GP is offset for cooling efficiency. One of my Cadillacs had no front plate and I was not happy when I had to mount a plate holder into the nice clean bumper.
  5. If the car is going dead while driving it, it is obviously a charging issue. While the engine is running check the stud on the alternator. Voltage when running should be anywhere between 13.5 and 14 volts. Start there. This thread could use some more specific info as to what the car is doing. Year make, and model helps too. In all of my experience books are not always the answer. What is in my head could never be put into a book.
  6. Have you checked your fuses. Long shot but I have to mention it.
  7. unless there is a resistor or jumper in the cap that contacts at least 2 of the pins I would say it is not necessary. I will mention I have never owned a vehicle that had a cap over the ALDL but have worked on many fords that had them. OBD1 and OBD2. They are useless in any other way than keeping dust out
  8. Ok I suggest unplugging the plugs at the DIS and see if the cluster starts to work properly. I honestly never really had any issue with OBD1 datalink. I am going to have to do some research here Just take out the philips screws that secure the cover to the sport pod (back side) just be careful as they tend to break easily
  9. by chance did it start after the repair of the climate control head? I wonder if that is in the loop of the datalink. Could be shorting it
  10. Have you checked your battery connections? I have seen poor connections do weird things
  11. that cd player is ultra rare also. I have onle ever had one and it worked. That is very early for the generation
  12. Do you have the UB3 digital cluster? To date that was the coolest instrument cluster I have ever seen. I loved that and my HUD. Ingenious I say
  13. Wow. that is nice. Not crazy about white but the car is in beautiful condition
  14. I have lexol cleaner and conditioner. (2 different solutions) Not very impressed using it with my 2 cadillacs.
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