UA-65274002-1 Jump to content

chevelle3504speed

Members
  • Content Count

    116
  • Donations

    $0.00 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About chevelle3504speed

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 06/27/1986

Converted

  • Biography
    I am currently a masters student at Auburn University and am majoring in goegraphy.
  • Location
    Auburn, AL
  • Interests
    Geography, photography, traveling, cars (partial to GM), table tennis, croquet, music.
  • Occupation
    I am a research assistant at Auburn University.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks jiggity76. Someone needs this car. I am willing to negotiate on price. I really want it to go to someone who has the time and drive to keep it up both mechanically and cosmetically.
  2. Okay guys, I need to get rid of this front clip. Anyone is welcome to it. No cost, I just want someone to put it to use. I am trying to avoid scrapping it.
  3. I have taken a job in Alaska and will be moving from Alabama soon. I have decided the old Grand Prix must go. It's a 1991 GTP factory 284 5 speed car. From what I know, it was used as a demonstrator in 1991 before being sold to the buyer I purchased the car from in 2010. All paint is original save for the front spoiler. The bumpers are faded and could use a repaint, and it does have some fairly minor hail damage, unfortunately. Despite these issues, I think this car is a very nice example of one of these. It is very reliable and has served as my daily driver for the past 9 years. It has been to Arkansas, Texas, and went to Kansas City, MO last summer. There are a few flaws/problems listed below Tires need replacing. Timing belt is due for replacement within the next 7,000 miles. Headliner is starting to separate at the rear near the back glass. Driver's side window switch sticks when the down button is pressed Once the window goes down completely, you must push the up button (i.e. the top part of the switch)momentarily to make switch unstick. This has been a problem since I've owned it, and it's easy enough to just press the top part of the switch, so I have not replaced it. Lifter ticks when engine is cold for 2-3 minutes and then stops and engine is quiet. I don't know what the issue is here, but I put a set of lifters in it trying to fix this problem, and it did nothing. Running 0W40 oil made a big difference, as it ticked pretty consistently with 10W30. Occasionally on a hot start, the engine will surge a few times and stall. If you crack the throttle and hold the engine at about 1,500 RPM for 10 seconds or so, the issue clears right up. It has done this since I've known the car, and I don't know the cause, but it happens rarely and I have found it rather easy to just crack the throttle for 10 seconds. Small oil leak. There is a spot about the size of a quarter left when car is parked overnight. Engine uses a quart of oil in 3,500 - 4,000 miles. I have run full-synthetic exclusively throughout my ownership. The previous owner told me he ran a synthetic blend. Since owning this car, I have replaced the transmission with a good operational salvage unit (currently has 130k on it), replaced rod and main bearings (although it didn't need it) and had the crank polished (crank was within specs for standard size rod and main bearings; did not require turning), replaced the oil pump, timing chain and guide, timing belt and components, head gaskets, A/C system, and front and rear struts. This car has been very well cared for over the years and has been meticulously maintained. It has a power moon roof, heads-up display, driver information center, and seats with adjustable lumbar, headrest, bolsters, etc, and it all works. Title is clear. The car is sold with the original owners manual, original keys, factory service manuals, set of Kent-Moore tools to service engine, a Yakima roof rack, an adjustable cam timing tool, and a bra to cover the front end. Asking $3,200. For some reason, I am unable to upload photos it seems. PM me if interested, and I will try sending photos that way.
  4. Thanks again for the great feedback on this. I have noticed that my trip odometer and conventional odometer record mileage at different rates. Based on mile-markers, the trip odometer records mileage more slowly (off by about 1/20 of a mile by my rough estimate). I am now tracking mileage on the conventional odometer, so we'll see how that affects mpg calculations. May even get the PCM programmed to correct this issue. On another note, I just purchased a set of factory16 inch 5-spoke wheels yesterday which are in good shape but need painting. Any recommendations about matching the factory paint?
  5. Thanks again for the feedback here. I will try running a bit more pressure and see where that gets me, but previous experience has led to to a similar to conclusion as stated by 55trucker. I'm currently running 35 psi and am hesitant to run much more than that for fear of premature wear. I've got a full-size conversion van that I ran 40 psi in (had 255/70/15s on it), and the centers of the tires wore excessively relative to the rest of the tire. I have run subsequent sets of tires at 35 and the tires have worn much more evenly.
  6. Haha, no 22s here. I have changed tire manufacturer and compound. I am running 35 psi in these new tires. I have not consciously adjusted my driving style since installing these tires. In-town mileage has remained basically unchanged (19-20 on average); it's namely the highway mileage that has suffered. Andy
  7. RIghto, thank you guys for the feedback. I have changed manufacturer of tire. The 215s were Yokohama Avid Envigor, and the replacement 225s are Pirelli P4 Four Season Plus. 215s were put on in September of 2013 and were pretty well worn out when I pulled them off. Fuel mileage with the 215s was right at 26 flat, while the 225s give me about 23.3 on average. By my math, that's roughly a 10% difference. So perhaps I'm losing 5% as a result of this tire change.
  8. I replaced my 215/60/16s with 225/60/16s this time on my '95 Cutlass Supreme 4-door 3800 supercharged and am not sure I can live with the fuel mileage drop. I am down 3 mpg on average since this tire change. I prefer the appearance of the 225s but am strongly contemplating replacing them with 215s considering the drop in fuel efficiency. Has anyone else encountered this? Thanks, Andy
  9. Took me a while to find the Y-27 clips. I need to correct my previous post here. The Y-27 clips are exclusive to the 4-door models of the Cutlass Supreme, Grand Prix, and Regal. Y-20 clips are required for the 2-door versions. Here's a photo of the rack installed.
  10. I found all parts needed for the roof rack. Although Yakima has not made any of the parts except for the round bars for the past 20 years, I was able to find all parts needed through rerack.com and ebay. Part numbers are given below: 1C SST towers (4 required) Y27 clips (2 pair required) 48" round bars (2 required) This roof rack system is limited to 165 lbs. I doubt many folks wish to put roof racks on these cars, but here's the info should you need it. This setup works with both the 2-door and 4-door Cutlass Supreme, Regal, and Grand Prix. It will work on the first generation Lumina as well, but it requires different clips. Yakima currently offers a new rack for that car anyway. I am still waiting on the rack to arrive. I'll post back to confirm the fit.
  11. From my experience all parts will bolt on, but the 2-door body has a subtle bulge at the top of the front fenders that extends back to the doors that the 4-door body does not have. When I put the left side 2-door fender on my 4-door, the top of the fender extended out away from the car probably 1/2 inch compared to the door as the bulge at the top of the 2-door fender is more pronounced than the 4-door. Additionally, there was also about a 1/2 inch gap at the top of the fender between the back of it and the front of the door. The fender collides with the door about halfway down as well. The cut on the back of the 2-door fender is subtly but significantly different from the 4-door fender. In my case, it seemed you would have to modify the rear of the fender and/or the front of the door to make the two fit correctly. As you likely know, you can't use the 4-door fenders and the remaining 2-door components as the 2-door bumper will not mount to the 4-door fenders, among other reasons. One other thing. There are some air inlets for the small grills on the 4-door bumper you have to cut in order to accommodate the 2-door header panel, but that is pretty quick and easy. I am intrigued at how well the fenders fit against the doors on the car in the picture you sent.
  12. Thanks for the photo. Agreed; I much prefer the coupe front end. That one looks like it fits right. Sure, I wouldn't mind bringing that front clip to you next time I travel to AR. I certainly won't travel there before next summer at the earliest though. Sounds like a nice project you've got in mind. I do like the dark green.
  13. I'm trying to find a roof rack for my '95 Cutlass Supreme 4-door, but I can't seem to find a company who makes one. Yakima and Thule do not, however; Yakima lists one for the 1st gen Lumina. It seems like this one would work on the Cutlass Supreme. Any of you guys with Cutlass Supremes have experience or suggestions for roof racks? Thanks, Andy
×
×
  • Create New...