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Schurkey

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Schurkey last won the day on December 8 2015

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About Schurkey

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  1. Schurkey

    06 Grand Prix

    1. Buy a service manual--a real one, not a damned Chiltons or Haynes. 2. Get a REAL scan tool, look at the data stream.
  2. Schurkey

    Who can reprogram the odometer on the Delco cluster?

    "I" would drive the bitch and see what happens.
  3. Schurkey

    Who can reprogram the odometer on the Delco cluster?

    News to me. Sure they won't read more than 200K? WHAT VEHICLE IS THIS???
  4. Schurkey

    Fast idle 3.4 DOHC

    You created a lot of extra wear by grinding on the starter motor without starting the engine. 1. You added wear to the starter 2. You added wear to the flywheel ring gear (and the ring gear isn't lubed!) 3. Cranking the engine added wear to the rings, cylinder walls, bearings, cam 'n' lifters, etc. It's much better to just start the damned engine and build oil pressure instantly, than to "baby" it while adding extra revolutions. Certain oils are better than others for remaining on parts while the engine is shut off. THAT could be worthwhile.
  5. Schurkey

    Trunk leaks

    When the trunks of my cars get wet, I know it's time to clean all the damned rotten leaves out from the side and front of the trunk seal. They hold water, keeping the seal wet.
  6. In any event, cryo-treating the internal trans parts is not likely to substantially improve the strength. Cryo is good for stress-relief; and seems to make a nice improvement to cutting tools--but I don't think it's going to help internal trans parts that much.
  7. Schurkey

    Welding coolant pipes.

    MAPP gas hasn't been made for over a decade. What's sold now is "MAP-Pro", which is NOT the same thing, but you're supposed to think it is. It's deliberate deceit on the part of the manufacturer and packager. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas The bigger problem is that by the time you see corrosion on the outside of the tube, the inside can be even more rotted. Replacement of the tube is the best solution. If I couldn't get a pre-fabricated replacement, I'd bend one from copper plumbing tube, bead the ends, and clamp it to the hose.
  8. I've thought about the design of these plastic blocks in the years since I installed them on my two Ws. I believe the intent with these is NOT to replace the rubber pads, they're simply a spacer to add some ride-height to the ass-end of the car. As such, the spring should have fresh rubber pads glued into place BEFORE installing the plastic blocks.
  9. Schurkey

    96 CS sedan brakes.

    Thousands of years ago, I used a needle-nose Vice-Grip, adjusted just tight enough to block the hose without crushing the thing to death. Later on, I bought some of those "Hose Pinch-Off Tools". They work OK. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-22850-Hose-Pincher/dp/B0002NYB78/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1543979201&sr=8-9
  10. Schurkey

    96 CS sedan brakes.

    The nice thing about the much-unloved first-gen rear calipers is that you don't need any stinkin' special tool or "cube" to push the rear pistons in. DISCONNECT the lever on the back side of the caliper, push the pistons in with a C-clamp (I use a C-clamp style Vice-Grip.) Then reinstall the lever, washer, and nut. The threaded rod spins instead of the caliper piston. Never dicked with the newer-style rear calipers, so I don't know if you can do something similar with them. As already said, don't push old fluid backwards through the system. Pinch off the rubber hose, open the bleeder valve, remove the old fluid. The fluid at the caliper is typically the most-polluted stuff in the whole system. There's no point to doing a rear brake job and then not performing whatever steps it takes to adjust the rear brakes. On the first-gens, you need to activate the park brake to adjust the rear calipers. I don't know about the newer design(s). I wouldn't get too worried about "penetrating oil" on the Torx-head caliper bolts up front. Just muscle 'em out, 'cause if they're seized, the penetrating oil is unlikely to help, and if they're not seized, the penetrating oil is unlikely to help. Once removed, I've heated the bigass sleeve with a torch to free it, tried to work some anti-sieze between it and the bolt (tough to do) and then hope for the best.
  11. Schurkey

    3.6 LFX Oil Catch Can installation

    Fine. I'll ask again: How does removing water condensation from the PCV system have any effect on carbon buildup in the intake system? The little amount of sludgy hydrocarbon you've trapped in the catch-can is so minor that it wouldn't have any noticeable effect on the valve deposits. Far as I know, the carbon buildup on the valves and intake tract is from reversion, and from the EGR system, if used...not the PCV system. I still say this is a total waste of effort.
  12. Schurkey

    3.6 LFX Oil Catch Can installation

    What problem does that catch-can solve? Without it, that condensation + traces of hydrocarbon goes harmlessly through the engine and out the tailpipe, just as it does on millions of other engines. I didn't watch the entire video--I gave 'em both the "5-second fast-forward" over and over, so 15 minutes of video cost me about two minutes of my life. Oxidizing hydrocarbons (burnt fuel) results in a shipload of water. Hydrogen + Oxygen = what? It's no surprise that water vapor collects in the crankcase as the result of blowby. Everyone else uses a simple PCV system to eliminate it, you've added complexity and expense plus another maintenance item where it's not needed and does no good.
  13. Schurkey

    Good '94-96 GP fog light upgrades?

    I wonder what it's like to live in an area that has fog so often. We get fog here--occasionally--and sometimes fairly heavy. And light snow with a little wind that's functionally the same as fog in terms of visibility. Yet I've rarely felt the need for fog lights. Driving lights would be awesome--except there's always oncoming traffic or someone in front of me, so I could never use 'em anyway. There's an unlimited supply of mental defectives around here that drive all damned day or night with four or six headlights going (Low beams + fog lights, high beams + driving lights, low beams + fog lights + "halo" crap, low beams + second set of low beams from the snow plow lights, plus fog lights, etc) with NO regard to fog or oncoming traffic. Who uses fog lights when it's not foggy? Idiots.
  14. Discharged/defective battery? Alternator faulty or undersized (excess electrical load)? Alternator regulator faulty? Excess voltage drop in the charging system wire harness? Low idle speed? Incorrect alternator-crankshaft pulley ratio? A proper ON-THE-CAR testing of the entire starting/charging/battery "power team" is MUCH better than popping the alternator off and having some parts-counter flunky put it on an Off-the-car "test bench".
  15. Schurkey

    ALDL Data Line ECM / ABS

    Mine does. I diagnosed an open wire harness from RF wheel speed sensor on my '92 Euro 3.4, based on info from the Red Brick. Had to splice in a batch of wire because the original wire insulation tore, and the copper conductor inside turned green and solder wouldn't stick to it. Of course, how your MT2500 handles ABS will depend on what level of software you're using. I am not aware of an MT2500 cartridge that WON'T do ABS...but that doesn't mean they don't exist.
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