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Schurkey

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Schurkey last won the day on December 8 2015

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  1. Body cladding is overdone and hides rust. 3.1L is under-powered, but "OK" for a family/econo car. Rear spring will need help. New rubber pads + plastic spacer blocks at minimum. Like all older cars, EVERYTHING made of "rubber" is shot. Bushings, hoses, belts, mounts, grommets, etc. Brake booster will probably need replacement. Entire steering/suspension/brake system should be inspected. Engine mounts are suspect, as are subframe mounts.
  2. Got money for kids and smokes, but you're "broke ass native"??? Quit smoking, buy a scan tool. Your life will be better.
  3. Did you reset the oil life monitor when the oil was changed? I'd expect 6K--12K oil life depending on how the vehicle is run. Adding less than a quart of oil did not quiet the lifters. Adding three quarts of oil might. Not really. The word you're looking for is "clearances", not "tolerances". A high-volume oil pump certainly can boost pressure, as can a non-worn-out pump. Does this engine still use the stupid aluminum-housing oil pump built into the front cover, or had that gone away by '98? The Buick design oil-pump-in-the-front-cover was a disaster. 1. These are roller lifters...right? Why would you "have" to change the cam? For that matter, guys got by with changing flat-tappet lifters on used cams for decades--assuming the cam was used but not worn-out. A lot of this has to do with valve spring pressure--what can work for stock valve springs may not work for 9000-RPM, high-lift valve springs. 2. Take the lifters apart out and apart one-at-a-time and clean them. Hydraulic lifters are miniature oil filters. The oil inlet passage is fairly huge, but the oil outlet is microscopic. Crap gets in, can't get back out. Lifter fills up with sludge.
  4. DO NOT add refrigerant until you know 1. Whether the compressor is running 2. What the refrigerant pressures (high-side and low-side) are when the compressor runs 3. What kind of refrigerant is already in the system
  5. I'd double-check the lighting fuse(s) and the headlight dimmer switch first.
  6. Lube the shifter and shift cable, adjust the mechanism--and the switch as required. Shouldn't be that hard. A nice weekend project.
  7. I have no info about piston slap on LQ1. There may be a bulletin--but I don't have it and I've never seen one. When I went to the stealership to bitch about the knocking noise, they wanted me to pay for the "Lifter tick" bulletin procedure since my vehicle was out-of-warranty at the time. The info I do have is for early-95 and prior LQ1 "lifter tick". The web site that hosted the actual bulletin has been gone for years. http://www.60degreev6.com/vb5/articles/-1991-1997-dohc-aa/424720-lq1-service-bulletin-57-61-09-lifter-tick-cold
  8. They should. Not because it's night, but because you've turned the lights on.
  9. Might be lifter noise. Might be rocker arm noise. Both have a history on the 3.1 engines. Potentially piston slap. As soon as the pistons expand a little, they quit knocking. (at least to start. As time goes by, they may knock even when warm.) GM has had problems with piston slap for years if not decades. The "Lifter tick" on my 1992 and 1993 3.4L Luminas is actually piston slap--because the official "fix" for the lifter problems did nothing at all for the knocking noise, and there are no rocker arms. A web search on "Piston Slap" will yield lots of different web sites. My favorite has disappeared--I guess they quit paying the web hosting. It used to be www.pistonslap.com GM knows all about it. They've been sued over it. They cannot acknowledge the existence of piston slap without getting sued again, so they'll deny, deny, deny. Lying bastages. For awhile, they promised customers a "fix" that they never implemented because they'd have had to recall everything they ever made. GM claims the noise is harmless. It more-or-less is, except that it can trigger the knock sensor, and then your timing is retarded and the fuel economy and power tanks. If it's only knocking when cold, that doesn't matter. My Luminas knock all the time. I've lost about 3 mpg. For the record, the engine I built for my '68 El Camino has very mild piston slap--a known problem with KB Hypereutectic pistons. Fifteen seconds of run time and the noise--which was never all that loud--is gone. By contrast, my Luminas knock so loud I don't need a horn, and they knock pretty much all-the-time at idle where they used to knock only when cold.
  10. The last time I bought a Sealed Power oil pump, the item inside the box was made by Melling. This was for a BBC. Melling sells a heaping pile of oil pumps. They seem to be made in USA--at least the ones I've bought. As said...what's wrong with the existing pump?
  11. You're gonna break 'em anyway, so you might as well do it on purpose where it's easy/convenient for removal, then just splice 'em back together with two-inch sections of rubber hose.
  12. 1. Buy a service manual--a real one, not a damned Chiltons or Haynes. 2. Get a REAL scan tool, look at the data stream.
  13. "I" would drive the bitch and see what happens.
  14. News to me. Sure they won't read more than 200K? WHAT VEHICLE IS THIS???
  15. You created a lot of extra wear by grinding on the starter motor without starting the engine. 1. You added wear to the starter 2. You added wear to the flywheel ring gear (and the ring gear isn't lubed!) 3. Cranking the engine added wear to the rings, cylinder walls, bearings, cam 'n' lifters, etc. It's much better to just start the damned engine and build oil pressure instantly, than to "baby" it while adding extra revolutions. Certain oils are better than others for remaining on parts while the engine is shut off. THAT could be worthwhile.
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