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Schurkey last won the day on December 8 2015

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About Schurkey

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  1. Are you saying that the HVAC fan motor only runs when the secondary rad fan motor runs? Or that the AC compressor only runs when the secondary fan motor runs? I guess either way, you need the wiring schematic from the service manual, and you need to trace the wires connecting the secondary fan to the rest of the A/C system. I don't have a schematic for '94. Used service manuals are typically available on eBay, often for chump change.
  2. What are the refrigerant pressures, high-side and low-side? Are the refrigerant tubes on the evaporator cold? Does the compressor run? If the pressures are reasonable and the evap is cold, you've got air-door problems. If the pressures are way off, or the tubes to/from the evap aren't cold, you've got system problems. Might be nice if we didn't have to guess what car this is.
  3. Huh? You post is so ambiguous I can't tell what the problem(s) are. Are you thinking there's a secondary HVAC fan, or are you talking about a secondary radiator fan? Do you have warm air blowing in the cabin, or do you have cool air but not blowing strong enough?
  4. Buy a service manual specific to your vehicle. I usually get mine from eBay, used, at advantageous price.
  5. It's not what I'd prefer to use, but lots of folks do, and clearly the cooler manufacturers use those fittings so they clearly have confidence in them. Given any choice, I'd stay the hell away from typical worm-drive clamps due to the damaged hoses they promote . "Fuel Injection" clamps work much better--if you can get them large enough. Be careful of the hose you use. Typical "fuel" hose is NOT appropriate. PS return hose works well if the pressure rating is high enough. Best bet is the push-lock style hose from the hot-roddy aftermarket like Aeroquip, Russell, etc. Done properly, you wouldn't need clamps at all.
  6. Lotsa sh!t is gonna change when I become Emperor. Among my first day's proclamations will be to E-N-D autonomous vehicle R&D, and to destroy all prototypes and existing vehicles. Until every one of them is gone forever, the software and hardware engineers and their managers are personally liable for all collisions.
  7. I don't know about 4T65E specifically, but typical trans cooler pressure is 30 psi to 80 psi. High pressure in the cooling circuit means high pressure in the torque converter--which means the crankshaft thrust bearing is in danger. The cooler return flow doesn't get dumped into the pan, that's what lubricates the geartrain.
  8. MOST drivers can't control the panic reflex to stuff their foot harder into the brake pedal, rendering the vehicle uncontrollable. I see the advertising for vehicles with radar/sonar anti-collision monitoring, and I think "This is a car designed for people who can't drive." Autonomous vehicles will make this situation much worse, very quickly. We're already at or beyond "Peak driving skill". Enjoy it while it lasts.
  9. Schurkey

    Why not Quad 4

    If I'm seeing the specs correctly, the Quad 4 had 160 ft/lbs of torque at 5400 rpm, compared to 180 ft/lbs at 3600 rpm for the 3.1. Horsepower was 180 at 6400 vs. 135 at 4400 for the V-6. The 3.1 would be far more fun to drive at least around town. A drag-race might favor the Quad 4...maybe. The Iron Duke is not even a contender. Although I do know of one with an Ultradyne cam and BBC rocker arms that was mounted in an S-10, and could tow a full-size pickup at highway speed. Apparently there's hope for them, if you're willing to put in the time and money.
  10. The ABS light on the dash has been on for awhile. A popped tire, I think, tore the RF ABS harness. I was too lazy to fix it right away. I had the same problem on a '92 Lumina--RF sensor harness open to road splash. What happens is that water gets inside the insulation of the broken wires, and corrodes the wire down towards the sensor, and up towards the engine compartment. The corroded wire can't be soldered, solder won't stick to it. And it's a mess to clean off with flux and heat. If the wire corrosion is only a few inches, you can cut the section out and splice to clean wire. In this case, the wire was rotted all the way down to the sensor connector, and all the way up to the engine compartment connector. I disconnected that section of the ABS harness at both ends, and opened it up for inspection. There was "no hope", so I visited my favorite Treasure Yard and grabbed a replacement harness complete with the bulkhead grommet that goes through the strut-tower. Wheel sensor end of ABS harness. Note corroded, blackened wire Engine compartment end of ABS harness, almost to the strut-tower grommet. Wire is still corroded black. Replacement harness from Treasure Yard, including grommet and retainer clip where it goes through the strut tower ABS repair entirely successful, I didn't even have to clear any codes. I got in, drove it, and the ABS warning light turned itself off. Scan tool shows all four wheel sensors providing the same vehicle speed to the ABS when I drive. Next repair was due to a plugged air conditioning drain nipple (Duckbill). The condensation wouldn't drain from the evaporator box. When I'd take a left turn, the condensation would slosh into the blower fan and make noise, and also produce "fog" from the A/C vents. If I'd gone under the car, found the silly little drain nipple very near the exhaust downtube, pulled it off and cleaned it, the water wouldn't have corroded the blower-motor resistor pack. Drain nipple, cleaned-out. Pulling this off the stub-pipe on the firewall released about a quart of water--condensation from the A/C evaporator. By the time I got around to attending to this, the resistor connector had corroded so bad I couldn't get it off of the resistor pack, and there was no current flow through the resistors--so the fan speed switch had "off", "off 1", "off 2", "off 3" and "High". Corrosion extends to the underside of the connector. I couldn't get the connector to release--it's corroded together. Getting at the resistors is a bitch. First I removed the interior hush panel on the far right side under the dash (two barbed connections hold it in place) and then there's three screws in the resistor pack WAY forward by the firewall, to the side of the blower motor. The resistor pack faces "up", so there's almost no tool clearance to put a 7/32 socket on the screws next to the firewall. Once I removed the corroded resistor pack I clipped the wire harness a few inches from the connector. Again, the Treasure Yard supplied a replacement resistor pack and connector, with eight inches or so of wire harness. I connected the replacement harness to the vehicle harness using a 4-prong weatherpack connector pair. I could have soldered the wires directly, or crimped them without a connector. Lastly, I decided that perhaps I should check the engine air filter. No special reason, but I know I haven't done it in years. Pulled an entire mouse-nest out of the filter box. Car would still go 70 mph +. There really didn't seem to be a problem with performance--but perhaps the next drive with a new filter will show improved performance I didn't know I was missing. I gotta stop procrastinating on vehicle maintenance. Each of these issues was made worse by not taking care of things right away. Next up: replace fuel filter, inspect spark plugs 'n' wires, inspect/replace radiator cap and coolant hoses.
  11. I guess the answer is to pull the thing out of storage, air the tires, check the oil and brake fluid, then go for a 400-mile drive.
  12. Schurkey

    Why not Quad 4

    Too much complexity and expense for a four-popper in a "big" car. Remember, rental agencies called the W-bodies "Full size" cars and charged accordingly. They could sell iron duke cars because the engine cost about fifteen cents to make, and there's lots of stupid people who will buy a cheap car no matter how bad it is--look at Chevy Chevette, Ford Escort, Volkswagen, Renault, and Yugo, for example. For those who don't know, the "Pontiac" "Iron Duke" goes all the way back to the Early 1960s, when Chevy cut two cylinders off their 230 Six Popper, and stuffed the resulting rough-as-a-cob Four into the Chevy II. That engine went through about two hundred variations until it was almost unrecognizable as having been based off of a turd of a six cylinder. But even with decades of redesign, the Iron Duke was the crappiest GM engine of modern times. "Inexpensive" wasn't a feature of the Quad 4, yet it's still going to be torque-deficient and inherently rough like an Iron Duke. Far as I know, they didn't get balance shafts until '94 for the '95 model year. I'd WAY rather have a plain-Jane 3.1 than a fancy four popper. The 3.1 is twice the engine the four cylinders are. NO motor vehicle should have an engine with fewer cylinders than it has road wheels. Might as well be a lawn-mower. An equal number of cylinders to wheels can work, but usually not very well. More cylinders than wheels is optimum, and X2 and X3 works very well indeed. (Exceptions, of course, for Wankel-power and gas-turbine.)
  13. 1. You want to D-I-Y repairs, you should invest in a service manual. Often can be had on eBay for chump change. 2. I would be under the dash on the passenger side of the car looking for the HVAC motor 'n' fan. And in fact, I will be, as the HVAC fan on my '98 Monte only works on "High" speed, not 1--2--3.
  14. Awwwwwwww...shucks. I think you give me too much credit. Well, OK, I am an asshole.
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