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Schurkey

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Schurkey last won the day on December 8 2015

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About Schurkey

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  1. I've thought about the design of these plastic blocks in the years since I installed them on my two Ws. I believe the intent with these is NOT to replace the rubber pads, they're simply a spacer to add some ride-height to the ass-end of the car. As such, the spring should have fresh rubber pads glued into place BEFORE installing the plastic blocks.
  2. Schurkey

    96 CS sedan brakes.

    Thousands of years ago, I used a needle-nose Vice-Grip, adjusted just tight enough to block the hose without crushing the thing to death. Later on, I bought some of those "Hose Pinch-Off Tools". They work OK. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-22850-Hose-Pincher/dp/B0002NYB78/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1543979201&sr=8-9
  3. Schurkey

    96 CS sedan brakes.

    The nice thing about the much-unloved first-gen rear calipers is that you don't need any stinkin' special tool or "cube" to push the rear pistons in. DISCONNECT the lever on the back side of the caliper, push the pistons in with a C-clamp (I use a C-clamp style Vice-Grip.) Then reinstall the lever, washer, and nut. The threaded rod spins instead of the caliper piston. Never dicked with the newer-style rear calipers, so I don't know if you can do something similar with them. As already said, don't push old fluid backwards through the system. Pinch off the rubber hose, open the bleeder valve, remove the old fluid. The fluid at the caliper is typically the most-polluted stuff in the whole system. There's no point to doing a rear brake job and then not performing whatever steps it takes to adjust the rear brakes. On the first-gens, you need to activate the park brake to adjust the rear calipers. I don't know about the newer design(s). I wouldn't get too worried about "penetrating oil" on the Torx-head caliper bolts up front. Just muscle 'em out, 'cause if they're seized, the penetrating oil is unlikely to help, and if they're not seized, the penetrating oil is unlikely to help. Once removed, I've heated the bigass sleeve with a torch to free it, tried to work some anti-sieze between it and the bolt (tough to do) and then hope for the best.
  4. Schurkey

    3.6 LFX Oil Catch Can installation

    Fine. I'll ask again: How does removing water condensation from the PCV system have any effect on carbon buildup in the intake system? The little amount of sludgy hydrocarbon you've trapped in the catch-can is so minor that it wouldn't have any noticeable effect on the valve deposits. Far as I know, the carbon buildup on the valves and intake tract is from reversion, and from the EGR system, if used...not the PCV system. I still say this is a total waste of effort.
  5. Schurkey

    3.6 LFX Oil Catch Can installation

    What problem does that catch-can solve? Without it, that condensation + traces of hydrocarbon goes harmlessly through the engine and out the tailpipe, just as it does on millions of other engines. I didn't watch the entire video--I gave 'em both the "5-second fast-forward" over and over, so 15 minutes of video cost me about two minutes of my life. Oxidizing hydrocarbons (burnt fuel) results in a shipload of water. Hydrogen + Oxygen = what? It's no surprise that water vapor collects in the crankcase as the result of blowby. Everyone else uses a simple PCV system to eliminate it, you've added complexity and expense plus another maintenance item where it's not needed and does no good.
  6. Schurkey

    Good '94-96 GP fog light upgrades?

    I wonder what it's like to live in an area that has fog so often. We get fog here--occasionally--and sometimes fairly heavy. And light snow with a little wind that's functionally the same as fog in terms of visibility. Yet I've rarely felt the need for fog lights. Driving lights would be awesome--except there's always oncoming traffic or someone in front of me, so I could never use 'em anyway. There's an unlimited supply of mental defectives around here that drive all damned day or night with four or six headlights going (Low beams + fog lights, high beams + driving lights, low beams + fog lights + "halo" crap, low beams + second set of low beams from the snow plow lights, plus fog lights, etc) with NO regard to fog or oncoming traffic. Who uses fog lights when it's not foggy? Idiots.
  7. Discharged/defective battery? Alternator faulty or undersized (excess electrical load)? Alternator regulator faulty? Excess voltage drop in the charging system wire harness? Low idle speed? Incorrect alternator-crankshaft pulley ratio? A proper ON-THE-CAR testing of the entire starting/charging/battery "power team" is MUCH better than popping the alternator off and having some parts-counter flunky put it on an Off-the-car "test bench".
  8. Schurkey

    ALDL Data Line ECM / ABS

    Mine does. I diagnosed an open wire harness from RF wheel speed sensor on my '92 Euro 3.4, based on info from the Red Brick. Had to splice in a batch of wire because the original wire insulation tore, and the copper conductor inside turned green and solder wouldn't stick to it. Of course, how your MT2500 handles ABS will depend on what level of software you're using. I am not aware of an MT2500 cartridge that WON'T do ABS...but that doesn't mean they don't exist.
  9. 1. Verify proper system voltage. Engine running, alternator should output ~14.2 volts. 2. Verify proper lighting voltage. Engine running, voltage at the fuse that protects the dash lights should be at least 13 volts, preferably more. 3. Spin the rheostat at the headlight switch to turn the lights up to full brightness. 4. Verify proper lighting voltage at the bulb sockets. THIS will be a pain in the ass.
  10. Schurkey

    Weird electronic event

    Chime via radio on some vehicles doesn't concern me. Having the turn signal affect the volume of the radio does.
  11. Schurkey

    Thinking about having my car painted

    Necessity is a mother. Best way to learn is to have to paint something. I knew guys who painted their cars by buying a shitload of Krylon spray-bombs. Yes, it looked pretty bad when they were done. I saw a car at the Car Craft Summer Cruise a few years ago that had been painted with a gallon or two of Rustoleum and a fine-textured (smooth) house-painting roller. Actually looked pretty good, considering. My philosophy has been to let the car look bad. Drive it until there's nothing left.
  12. Schurkey

    ATF smell.....Valvoline MaxLife????

    Any chance the trans is low on fluid, aerating the fluid, and pumping foam out the vent? Might account for the strong smell. I'd expect some evidence of external leakage, though.
  13. Schurkey

    ATF smell.....Valvoline MaxLife????

    1. 150 is on the cool side, not hot. 170--190 is about right. I don't get worried until the fluid is hotter than than the electric-fan turn-on temperature. Might be nice to have confirmation that your trans temp gauge is accurate, though. 2. There is no "t" in Dexron. 3. If the smell bothers you, I figure you have three choices: A ) change fluid again. This is why it's nice to put a drain plug in the pan while you have it off, B ) add a hose to the trans vent tube, route the hose to the back of the vehicle, or to a charcoal canister to absorb the smell, or C ) get used to the stench, hope it goes away eventually. 4. There's something to be said for staying with Dex/Merc "Dex III" fluid. Be aware that ATF fluid viscosity has been dropping since Fido was a pup, it's nothing new. It is a pain in the ass for motorcyclists who have front forks that use ATF as shock oil, because "ATF" now isn't the same viscosity as it was in 1965. Or 1985. Or 2005.
  14. Schurkey

    Cool Tools

    If you melt-out the rubber bushing from the outer shell, there's ZERO danger of distorting the control arm, and there's no need for special tooling or a press. The original shell is re-used. Yes, you'd need to figure out a method to determine the angle the front wheels are turned to get the caster function of a magnetic gauge to work. Don't forget that you'll also need the rim adapters to stick the magnetic gauge to, and all the inexpensive ones are junk because they have no method to adjust for wheel runout.
  15. Schurkey

    Cool Tools

    Use Polyurethane bushings, you won't need any of those tools. Propane torch, emery cloth to clean the original shells, then press the poly insert and inner sleeve in by hand. I have exactly that tool. Bought it from a tool-clearance store, I suppose I paid about ten dollars. It "works" on a DOHC first-gen Lumina, but it's actually easier to do without. It might be more useful with a 3.1. You don't need turnplates. Four pieces of sheet steel, two for each side. Put a layer of grease between them, drive over the top. The upper piece will slide on the lower. You'd want to build something similar for the rear. Marking the degrees will be the worst part. I actually bought turnplates from a shop that was updating their equipment. Had to drop 'em in the solvent tank after disassembly to clean out forty years of dirt. They'd hardly glide when I bought them. Not bad, now. The worst part about tooling for a D-I-Y alignment is getting the floor level. If the floor is tilted front-to-back, your caster readings will be affected. If the floor is tilted side-to-side, camber readings are affected.
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