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PCGUY112887

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  1. PCGUY112887

    Anybody know the part # of...

    GM part #10204701 it is indeed called the Check Link. Good luck getting it for a decent price however. Seems like probably a rare part now... Google shows some around $100 :-/ You can get one from a junkyard from the pass. side and it should interchange. I took the liberty of looking this up in the service manual to give some direction on how to do this. I could use one of these in my GP however it's just a bit of noise still holds alright.
  2. My rear end has been PARTICULARLY loud lately, kind of clunking and banging around over bumps, a little bit of groaning. I think the middle links on my swaybar are getting bound up due to the stupid felt bushings used to install that Addco bar. There is no lube or anything between those bushings and the bar and the bushings have sort of slid around from where they were supposed to be, I know it needs to be taken apart and everything greased up super good. But aside from that, the KYB struts in the rear are a bit older than the front ones. I had installed them less than a year ago onto my old sedan when I got my coupe, and to save money I uninstalled them from the sedan and moved them to the coupe. They are about 3 years old and maybe 40k miles on them. Unfortunately the KYB strut boots have not held up and are torn away sometimes exposing the metal rod of the strut, but last time I inspected it (6+ months ago) there was no signs of rust or anything starting yet on the rod. Could these struts be going bad too? It's hard to bounce test my car since it's so stiff, it practically goes no where when you bounce on the rear you have to REALLY force it and it resumes the position quickly. I had to put the Moog pads under my monoleaf on my old sedan since 1 of the rubber pads had disappeared, but the rubber seems to be holding just fine in the coupe. Thanks
  3. I have these in my Grand Prix... http://www.eurolamps.com/eurolamps/camaro_headlights.htm And they have been working great for a while now. I got them with the Xenon Charged bulbs and I got matching fog lamps and license plate lamps and everything. All of the exterior light on my car is a very nice brilliant WHITE! However, my headlights have been going out recently. First I noticed the passenger side bulb wasn't on, so I popped the hood and was like WTF and barely touched the harness that plugs into the bulb, and the light came right back on. After a brief WTF I wiggled it all around, unable to make it go back out. So I kept driving, few days later notice the DRIVERS side seems to be out. Again, pop the hood, bairly tap the harness where it snaps into the bulb, and it pops right back on. Move it all around, can't get it to go back off. This has happened over and over again the past few weeks and I am really starting to get pissed. I don't understand what is going wrong I guess my cars ride is so rough something is somehow coming loose, but I have no idea what?!? The harness completely snaps into the bulbs they are just like any other replacement bulbs, it's not like it could be sort of loose. Ideas?!?
  4. PCGUY112887

    130k 1996 Grand Prix Maintenance

    Well I am at about 130K now. Obviously a lot has already been done to the car. Basically everything under the hood is new(er) aside from the transmission. The alternator came off the old motor, but it's marked as a REMAN so it's been replaced before. Some suspension parts have already been replaced (see signature). Still using the old ICM as well which I presume is original. Front brake calipers are original, rears are replacements, all new rotors. Both rear wheel bearings have been replaced. What other type of maintenance am I looking at approaching this age? I don't think the transmission mount has been changed, I am considering doing it. I don't know if the fuel pump has ever been changed or not, that was the first thing to die on my old GP Sedan which is how I ended up meeting my current mechanic. All of the bulbs have been replaced, new lights in the front, and I even replaced the rear tail lights since they were leaking. I have noticed a number of bulbs are out on the interior however (behind the cluster and behind the HVAC controls), and they all seem to be a huge PITA to replace so I haven't done it. I think my rear window needs resealing since it squeeks like MAD and lets in moisture. My trunk leaks too. Can I buy a new gasket set or something for the trunk? I don't know if the door handle has ever broken (the linkage inside) but I do know the key hole barely works in the drivers door, good thing I had keyless entry installed. Any other common things you guys have run into that I should think about?
  5. There is definitely a bit of rubbing on the inside wheel wells, and there always has been even with my old tires. I did get new tires not too long ago and this noise has been around for a little while, my mechanic mentioned it but I just can't see how it could possibly be making that type of noise without showing any indication on the tires. Sometimes I hear it going in just a straight line over just the right bumps.
  6. PCGUY112887

    Turn Signal Troubles

    Alright, a HUGE bump for this topic, but only because it is the exact same issue I am having and all of the information is already here in this thread. My question is, my turn signal has been doing this for some time and when it gets super cold it stops working completely. Yet if I pull back on it a bit as if I'm using my brights, it comes on. My right blinker still blinks but the left one will only come on solid. I have NOT noticed any kind of brake light issue however, do they always happen together? Maybe my brake lights are acting up but I don't know it?!?
  7. On my lowered Grand Prix, sometimes when going over particular bumps sometimes while turning, or while turning off this particular right turn here in town that is on a huge drop off I will hear this crunching/popping sorta noise from my front driver tire area. I can practically feel it through my feet. If I didn't know better I would say my stainless steel brake lines were catching and being drug against but they don't have much slack and have plenty of wiggle room. That's just the best noise I can describe. I've had my car in the air with my mechanic trying to locate this noise, balljoints/tierods look fine can't find anything just from looking under the car and tugging on everything including my intrax springs. I went in asking about my strut and without tearing it apart we couldn't see any leaks or anything that may indicate that it blew up. The only thing that we found is that the bolts holding my front strut bar on were sorta scooting and scraping along the bar (from the way the GMPP bar is designed, it has slots not just holes for mounting) and we put some washers on and tightened it up but I really don't think the noise is coming from that, since it has not changed at all. My best guess is something is wrong under that strut plate? Or maybe under the strut? My car has always had a harsher ride with the lowering and sway bar and strut bars, but sometimes I feel like it's been EXTRA harsh like my strut did blow. Ideas?
  8. Doesn't make much since to figure he had no insurance, since you rear ended him it's automatically your fault so it would be your insurance company taking the hit to repair his car. Either way though you got off lucky.
  9. Why in the world did you have to dent your hood to make the 97+ Grand Prix GMPP front strut bar to fit? I've seen it installed on many GP's just fine including mine that I put on both a GP sedan and coupe. It's designed to fit under the hood and clear the motor.
  10. PCGUY112887

    Transmission Cooler Temperature

    If that transmission has a built in temp guage (as many do and even my 4T60E does) you can just read it via a simple scanner plugged into the OBD port. I have a heavy duty RV transmission cooler hooked up, goes through the radiator and then through the RV cooler, temps stay down great on my tranny.
  11. PCGUY112887

    any 1st gens with 3500 in them?

    No I haven't hit the strip... I fear for my transmission and once I can swap my tranny or get a different DD then I will race more. This has been strictly a street fun car so far. There is a word of warning though... if you want to read through ALL the problems I had, read through my entire swap thread... there are some handy work you will end up needing to do for some things. http://60degreev6.com/forum/f96/3500-swap-questions-t36647 One big thing you will run into is the fact that the transmission to motor block mounting bracket on the pass. side of the motor (back side of motor it attaches down low to the tranny) does not bolt to the 3500 block quite right. It seems that they moved the mounting holes on the block/oil pan a bit. A custom piece would be best if you have the ability to make something that strong but I ended up having the holes on the bracket elongated to manage to get the bolts on there and it was still a real hairy fit.
  12. PCGUY112887

    any 1st gens with 3500 in them?

    I am the only one who has put a full 3500 into a W-Body that I know of (see sig for details). If you want more info PM me. I was able to use the 3500 cover just fine, as it still has the places for the pulleys and power steering pump that aren't used when the 3500 comes in a G6 or Malibu.
  13. Best pictures I can snap, kind of hard to get a picture of since angles can make it look different.
  14. Mine does not bounce much at all, and a finger higher is exactly how I would describe it on the pass side. I will get some pictures.
  15. Holy shit $750? KYB's aren't even near $300 FYI.
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